jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Turbo, Yes I'm using the stock muffler, and just finished the cowl mounting today. I cleared the muffler by aprox. 1/16 of an inch. I think I can get another 32nd if I remove the muffler gasket and use red silicone. But I really don't think it will be necessary

I think the trick is to not go past the first former. not even the slightest bit. Had I even gone a 1/16 more my mufffler would have hit. When it's all done you can "bologna cut" (cut at an angle) about 2 inches (at the longest part) off the pipe. It actually looks pretty scale

john

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Wayne, I hear you loud and clear on the fuel/foam issue. I noticed in the instructions they seem to have it mounted in the foam.

How big and how thick of a piece of wood did you use?

did you put a radius on it?

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

According to Maudib's tests as shown above how does 500+/- rpm(diff.between the highest and lowest) translate in how the plane feels. Big diff., some diff., cant tell?? Im really struggling on muffler selection. I like the pitts look /touch quiter but dont want to sacrafice any power or add weight unless it gets made up on power. I wish he would have included the slimline in the test[&o].....is the stock DA muff loud enough you wish it were quieter? Annoying? Help[sm=bananahead.gif]

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Wayne, I'm curious exactly where you put that fuel dot in the cowl. The way I see it there is 3 options.

At the top, and then you need to have a hole in the top of the engine box as well, for the fuel line to pass

In the side of the cowl, then you need a hole in the side of the engine box.

in the lower part of the cowl, and run the fuel line through the opening in the bottom of the engine box. (this is lower than the tank and you will always spill fuel do to fact that it will siphon. until you put the stopper dot in the line.

john

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Turbo, if noise isn't an issue then as far as i'm concerned there is only one choice. The stock muffler.

1 Great power
2 very lite (less than 1/2 the weight of the others
3.Easy install
4. low cost

As for your question about rpm's 500 rpms is a lot

John

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks[sm=thumbup.gif]

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Is there even the slightest possibility that you will be at Toledo??? If not, then I guess we'll run into you at the "yakfest" in august???

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Try installing the grommets with some clear silicone between the rings of the grommet, essentially gluing the grommet in. It will be flexible, still, but it won't move around so the fiberglass won't be able to chaffe it...

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Use some 1/16" balsa with the grain running lengthwise with the fuse. Here's what I'd do:
1) Dremel a hole in the cowl to fit your dot where you want it.
2) cut a balsa square about 1 1/4" and cut the required sized hole in the center
3) use silicone adhesive instead of epoxy or CA as it will be flexible and well-sealed.
4) to hold it in place while it dries, just install the fuel dot and you're done...I also recommend a thin film of silicone on the threads of the dot prior to installing the nut as a "lock-tite, and a sealed install. YOU'RE DONE!

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

And to further answer your question, 500 rpm on this engine is at least 3 pounds of thrust, so it is a noticeable difference. Also, the bisson muffle is not only restricting, but a TANK!
I went the middle route...chip hyde pipe-a half pound heavier but 12 more ounces of thrust. I still plan/hope to be under or right at 15.5 lbs. I figured that if Wayne's plane is 15lb,7oz. with nimh batteries, a tru-turn spinner, wheelpants, and the dubro tires, it shouldn't be a problem, since I am running Li-ions, a CF spinner, Dave brown wheels, no pants, a mini throttle servo, and smaller tank. Off the top of my head, that's over 10 ounces savings right there...

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Not the slightest... at very best I'll get out of the hospital mid April...Averages say end of April. I'll be there in spirit.

I'll never forget last year when best buddy Tom Pierce (NEO on RCU) stole the show with his Dauntless. His first scale anything!

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

John,

The piece of wood I used is just slightly larger (diameter) than the fuel dot.
Its made out of 3/32 basswood.

My fuel dot is on the yellow stripe on the cowl. The line does have to pass through the motor box. Its nothing a drill bit cant take care of..

Dave763

My Feedback: (1)

Anybody ever try these for mounting a fiberglass cowl? I think they would hold up a lot better than rubber grommets.

http://www.pspmfg.com/CowlBinders.html

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Dave, those are sweet! I bookmarked the site and will give them a try in the future.

thank you
John

jpa2002

My Feedback: (115)

I was also going to recommend them. I have some of their tool carriers, and they are extremely nice!

Jon

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

This guy should get an award or something, His first post in this thread was on page 103, yet he was quoting info from page 74, Way to go !! he obviously has been searching and found what he was looking for.

Here is a pic of Wayne's (fuel dot in the cowl) and a picture of one of Chris's (fuel dot in the foam)

Bdsbob

My Feedback: (20)

I have used the PSPMFG Cowl Binders with a GP Wagstaff/DA50 Combo. They work pretty well as long as you install 4/40 bolts instead of the ones provided. The bolts provided broke from vibration. Once I went to 4/40 - no problems at all.

DrFun

My Feedback: (4)

jrjohn,

I would have to pull the cowl out for a pciture, but I can describe it, it is very simple, After drilling the holes in cowl, CA(thin) the CA hinge from inside to the cowl hole. Hinge centering the hole and put some more CA, (thin), no kicker.

Drill the hole on hinge from the cowl hole and you have support for the cowl holes from inside, you can repeat this as many layers as you want, weight is no problem, CA hinges are flexible(what they are designed for) and strong, sticks good. And prevents cowl from cracking.

morecashthansense

Hi All,

Just a quick observation of my Yak.
The wing tube is very tight within the wing, and when assembling the Wings into their 'socket' although the incidence pegs and bolt holes line up perfectly the skin/ polystyrene seems out of alignment slightly ie. there is a gap on the top of the left hand wing and on the bottom of the right hand wing panels where the wing would 'seat' on the fuzz.
The alignment to the rear stab tube is slightly off not enough to worry about??

The problem is annoying because it is VERY hard to assemble the wings I'm having to use the wing bolts to pull everything together, and then to disassemble them I'm concerned that I will pull a wing tip off trying to extract the wing!!!

Any help on how to loosen the wing tube slightly and is anyone having to open up the wing socket to get the wing to enter?? ( I will try to get some photos this week)

I quite realize that these kind of problems are to be expected on a first production run, and it is a price we tend to pay for being the first one on the block with a model to show off.
The plane looks simply stunning and I'm really itching to get her airborne.

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

I would not worry about the alignment unless it actually makes the incidence of the two wings different. You may want to check that...

As far as the wings being a PITA to install, there are a couple options...
1)deal with it and wait for them to wear in.
2)I noticed that the ends of the wing tubes seem to have a little "flare"...they seem to be ever so slightly larger than the rest of the tube, so you can sand a taper on the ends.
3) use some scotch brite to slightly buff the CF, a little at a time, until they fit better.

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Fly it for a while, things generally loosen up

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

[quote]ORIGINAL: BBriBro


This guy should get an award or something, His first post in this thread was on page 103, yet he was quoting info from page 74, Way to go !! he obviously has been searching and found what he was looking for.



Perhaps a award is needed[8D] Lucikly after reading the whole thread I have aquired a mental index and have a general idea where everything is and it don't take nearly as long to find what I need. Whats crazy is after 114 pages I still have questions.

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

Anyone using a spinner less than 4"? Is there a fitment issue with the props fitting.......seems like a few ounces could be saved using a 3 or 3.5" and it would be more scale to boot.

=Joel

meatman

does anyone have a opinion on using a mini servo for the throttle... I have been told be a experienced flyer the their will be to much vibration... eg a hitec hs81mg servo. any opinions on this.

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

I use mini servos on all my glow powered airplanes (for the throttles) I also have an HS-81 on my Exclusiv-Modellbau Funtana (80" zdz-40) I was trying to save weight, and I mounted it back by the wing spar, I don't think I would mount a mini on the motor box. Even though they provide ample torque, they do have smaller gear teeth, which makes them weaker (even though their specs make them seem as strong as a standard) if that makes sense. Yo mentioned the MG, I can't imagine vibration would strip metal gears, but who knows. Are you going to have a servo operated kill switch or servo operated choke? If so, then I'd say try it, at least you'll have a "backup" in case it does fail. I went with a standard on the Yak, since it's so close to the engine.