basmntdweller

My Feedback: (9)

I hate to re-ask questions but this thread has gotten so long you can't find stuff anymore. A search within a thread would be a cool addition rather than a whole forum or the whole site. Anyway, I used the supplied pull-pull setup. It really worked out much easier than I anticipated but I am concerned about the wires rubbing causing interference. Second, what are you doing to keep the elevator servo extensions in place/under control? And lastly, where are you runnig the rx antenna?
There are several things being done on this plane that I have always heard to be a no-no. I always heard you shouldn't use a metal pushrod on an ignition engine yet that is what is supplied. The aforementioned pull-pull wires rubbing and mounting all the batteries up on the engine box. I always read/heard to keepALL electronics as far away from the engine as possible. Are these things not that critical anymore? Why not?
Thanks,,,Matt

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I put little notches in the bulkeads along the floor and put a drop of thick CA on the elevator wires.. I then ran them into the tunnel glueing them there also... all the wires front and back are routed in the tunnel, then I just have a few round holes near the rx and they come through there...looks pretty clean.

I used nyrod for the throttle, not because of the interference thing though, I just liked it having a little give...

Correct me if I'm wrong(its happened on occasion) but aren't the ignition systems shielded much better now and all the interference stuff is not as big a deal???

Mike

2rolls

My Feedback: (16)

Matt.
My .02 worth..
My wires don't rub. I mounted the ball connectors on top (left) and bottom (right) of the metal (not supplied) servo arm.
My extentions are held snug with a couple balsa sticks Ca'd to a couple formers. I used long hemostats to install them.
The metal throttle rod is attached to a PLASTIC servo arm and a NYLON ball connector. (no metal-to-metal.)
My antenna runs through an old nyrod glued to the side and rear of the hatch area and glued to the 3rd former back where it exits.
A few inches of antenna is clear taped to the outside bottom covering.
I too was "squimish" about the battery locations. (old school magneto thinking)
A range check proved my fears un-founded.
I AM careful not to bundle battery leads with servo leads.
Important is to range check with the engine running....croz

stomper

My Feedback: (20)

Man I had no idea you are the cazy heli pilot with the 4th of July attached to your helicopter!!

Thats too cool and I have to say I like your way of thinking Mike[8D]

basmntdweller

My Feedback: (9)

I didn't want to tie my elevator extensions down too permanently as I may have to remove my stabs for transport. I was planning on heat shrinking the servos to the extensions and removing the whole deal if I have to to transport. Since I went with the original listing on Drew's site about 24" elevator extensions, I don't have enough length to allow unplugging only the servo from the extension.
I had thought about thick CAing the rx antenna to the formers back in the fuse but running the antenna parallel with other wires was also a no-no in the past. I didn't like the idea of running it straight back basically parallel to the pull-pull wires and the elevator servo extensions. If it's not a problem, I'll either Ca it or run it in a nyrod tube CAed to the inside of the fuse.
Anybody tried to fit the finished fuse with stabs in the back of a shortbed Chevy truck? If it'll fit I can make my elevator extensions a bit more permanent.
Matt

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

Maybe a silly question, but I dont want to drill wrong holes. On the tailwheel the directions say to "center it at the rear of the fuse" No mention of fore/aft measuring. I can see where the plywood is doubled for the mounting, which still leaves room for fore/aft positioning. Im assuming that the proper location would be with the pivot point on the tailwheel inline with the rudder hinge line?

Yak Man

My Feedback: (1)

You are correct.
Piviot point of tailwheel with the hinge-line of rudder.

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif] Thank You.......back to the garage[8D]

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Stomper, good to see there is someone as errrr mentally stable as I am in here.....

basementdweller... I cut the elevator leads and shortened them so they just stick out past the end of the elevator about 2", then the leads in the fuse stick out about a 1/2" I plug them in then the fit passively into the opening where the servo goes...






I cut all the wires and resoldered to optimum length, I bought one of those crimping tools a while back that lets you make servo connector ends...too cool, makes for nice clean install..... The tunnel (if not using pipe) is an awesome place to route wires and make everything look nice Both of my Duralite regulators are recessed into the foam and shoe goo'd in... still need to work on hiding the charge plug and plug for checking voltage..getting there...





I don't know about you guys, but I enjoy looking at pics of other peoples planes, sorry for huge posting, but wanted to share some pics!

Mike

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

Matt,

The wires are coated. Even if they do rub, its not metal on metal.
My extensions just lie on the bottom of the fuse behind the tunnel. On top of the tunnel I just took a piece of velcro and glued it to the top of the tunnel. The piece is long enough to put the wires in and then loop the velcro around them.
My antenna is in a tube that runs to the back of the plane.
A metal pushrod on a throttle is fine as long as it doesnt have metal to metal moving parts.
Modern ignition systems are very clean as far as noise goes. Its not really an issue anymore having other components near it.

Old habits (and views) die hard.

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

Did most of you use the wood screws provided for attaching the tailwheel bracket. I was thinking I might use some small socket head bolts with lock nuts on the inside. If I do that vs. the screws it will add 2 grams. I can cut some off the bolt for a better fit.(Im trying to upload my first pic attempt,it may or may not show up)

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

The more the better IMO. Im saving in a word doc. a lot of tips and pics ect... It will probably be May before I get the build finished[X(]. I really like the wires in tunnel...very clean, Nice!

ROGER RUSSELL

My Feedback: (12)

I would change them out as I help test fly one of these last week and just taxing aroung the tail wheel fell off before first flight.
However the owner of the plane said he only used thin CA on screws.,
If using the screws I would have coated them with 30 min and screwed them in.

BUT, bolts would be better.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

turbo, great idea on the word doc... DUH!!! I shoulda thought of that!!!! I am offically done with this thing. I had to put 8 oz of weight where the smoke pump will rest, came out to 15.5 pounds... Is that about average? I thought it was good since I had to have 1/2 pound of lead/smoke pump weight added.... I know the LiIons help, and believe it or not, cutting all the wire down saves an ounce or so....





One thing I am not too thrilled about is the fit of the wing into the fuse, do all of yours look like this???? I was hoping for a nice tight fit....




I'm at the back end of the spectrum of the CG. This is with the pack behind the wing tube, should I move it in front, or do you guys think this is OK???? I am a very average airplane flyer hardly ever fly them....so doubt I will notice much of a difference either way, but I want a nice behaving plane.




Thanks, Mike

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

Mike,

The weight is right on.

The fit in the wing is the same on all of them. It has to be that way because the opening has to be large enough for the root rib (the largest part) to get in the slot. Once its in the gap is there becuase of the taper on the LE.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Makes sense wayne, you think I should move CG forward? I was gonna pm you....hehe

Mike

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

No.
Go fly it and see what you think.
Looks like your close to where mine is. Maybe a tad aft.

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, bolts are better.....and I used them. Solid as a rock. I hardened the wood with CA also. Don't think this one will fall off taxing! Mike, here is some pics for you....50+ degrees on all surfaces while maintaining less than a 1/32 hinge gap. Yes, my wing has gap at fuse. Anyone have some Ultracote that matches the blue,red and yellow on this plane. I want to seal the rudder hinge gap and I don't have these colors(yes, they have to match[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]), hate to spend $$ for such small strips. If anyone does I need 1) 9"x1" blue , 3"x1" yellow & red. You could just mail it to me and I can paypal you a few $ If so pm/email me. Thanks.

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

Joel,

How about using clear Ultracote?
One roll will last you forever.

I sealed the bottoms of my wings and stab with White.
I didnt seal the rudder.

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

Because I didnt think of that[sm=bananahead.gif] Yes, I used the white on the wing/stab.

Mudsurfer1234

We just finished up our's. The batts all went up on the engine box, balances at the back of the yellow stripe. Weight on my scale, weighed myself and some weights to see if it was right, cuz it don't seem like it is, was 14.7 pounds. I put a bunch of different weights on it to see if they came out right, and they did. I was the same everytime i measured myself, so it gotta be close.

Took some pics in the living room of it finished, minus cowl and prop for viewing pleasure. lol.

Yes there are still christmas presents under the table. haha

jpa2002

My Feedback: (115)

Almost there! All I like is tying up the wiring, and sealing the control surface gaps with clear monokote(should I heat this or use the windex method since I am putting it over the other covering?). Oh, I can't forget the hatch upgrade also.

After reading some of the most recent posts, I am also going to add screws with nuts to the tail wheel.

I haven't weighed it, but I will try to soon.

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

I NEED HELP!!!
Started setting up the ignition cutoff today. I have the smart-fly system and it is not working right!!
I don't know if I just thought it out too hard, but the instructions aren't very clear so I had too. The wires on the smart-fly system are only 22 awg wire and have jr type plugs, but the ignition module has powerpole connectors and 14awg wire for the battery. Because DA highly recommends using that same gauge wire or larger throughout the switching mechanism and battery, I figured it wasn't meant to go there, especially since the wire for the pick-up uses jr plugs and smaller wire....did I figure wrong??? It just didn't make sense to put this switch with 22awg wire in between a battery and module with 14awg. Was I wrong?

PLEASE HELP!

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

I used a trim iron for the hinge gaps. Just defelect fully. I cut each strip 1/2"wide(so I didn't cover over the factory stripes) and to length to fit between each hinge. Peel the backing off and fold in half lenth wise, pop it in and iron it out. Perfect fit and nearly invisible. Credit WGeffon for this technique.

jpa2002

My Feedback: (115)

Thanks turbo4

bodyworks, I used the EDR setup for the ignition kill, but it should hook up almost the same. Now, I did not get the large gauge wire on my battery setups. I hooked up the lead off of my regulator to my EDR unit, and then I am switching it on ch 6 of my Futaba radio(rotary knob).

Jon