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Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

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Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

Old 03-27-2005, 10:35 PM
  #3726  
hw123
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

Thanks for letting me know that about the fromeNco battery stickers, I looked at them a dozen times but never really payed that much attention to it. I will have to get that changed. I guessed if i would have looked more closley at the name right there in front of me on the batterys i would've caught it. But thanks again for letting me know that. hw123
Old 03-27-2005, 10:38 PM
  #3727  
jrjohn
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

ORIGINAL: ten pillows

It does go sideways. I am using the stock DA50 muffler. Had to go so far forward to clear the front of the engine. Also, I am new at this, and as you can see no expert. When I recieved my cowl it had two very big cracks in it and when I called Chris he said he was sending a new replacement. I will try to be less invasive on the new one. Aren't you however, supposed to have twice to three times as much vent going out, as coming in? Thanks for your input. Any feedback is appreciated.

ten pillows
Tenpillows, If you "bologna cut" the exhaust at about a 30deg. angle, you won't have to slot your cowl for the exhaust.You can cut a nice neet round hole. the cut would start at 1 5/8" and end at 2 inches from the end.. I removed exactly 2 inches at the longest point. Knowing exactly where to put the hole in the cowl is an art.
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Old 03-27-2005, 11:00 PM
  #3728  
bodywerks
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

oh, yeah...just found out that my cowl was cracked today same place as everyone else. I looked at itwhen it arrived and I didn't notice any, but they were there today when I went to mount it! I went ahead and assembled it and will fly with it until I get a new one. I will talk to Chris about it at Toledo and see what he can do.
Old 03-27-2005, 11:01 PM
  #3729  
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

I got a tight hole One wing panel is very tight on the wingtube. I tried both ends in the panel and it's the same either way. Easy ways to fix? I thought about a piece of sandpaper on a dowel and spin it with a drill. Any better ideas?
Matt
Old 03-27-2005, 11:23 PM
  #3730  
bodywerks
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

best advice is to just deal with it. if it is just one wing panel, keep the tube in it for a dozen or so flights...it should wear itself in.
Old 03-27-2005, 11:27 PM
  #3731  
flyingcrazy
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

Well I got mine out and I have a twist in the fuse. I strapped mine down and checked it with a level it is a twist . I tryed to twist it back and shrink it back while holding it the other way after wetting it did not work . I straped it down and leveled it up on a sand bag so it would not move and tyed a weight on the hight side of the tail tube so it pulled the fin level will let it set till it drys . I think it will work . Heres some pic of how I strappted it down .
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Old 03-27-2005, 11:35 PM
  #3732  
WaPilot
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

Glitches...glitches.......Hitec Eclipse 7 with FM rec.. With engine running i have glitch prob. with antenna down and transmitter close to plane. Throttle is irragular (minor but can hear the throttle changing slightly) and elev have slight glitches. Receiver is about 12in away from ignition. Time for a new radio? It doesnt do this in my glow planes but none of them have digital servos... it seems to be ok with antenna up though.
Old 03-27-2005, 11:38 PM
  #3733  
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

Be sure your plug lead is all the way on the spark plug. A buddy kept having similar problem last year and the shield wasn't doing it job very well since it wasn't all the way on the plug. That's my only guess. I wouldn't try to fly it till it's solid!
Matt
Old 03-28-2005, 08:20 AM
  #3734  
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

[quote]ORIGINAL: jpa2002

Has anyone tried the new snaplock's from Slimline. These are used to keep connectors from pulling apart. I used heat shrink on the majority of mine, but I am going to use these on the ailerons. I guess you could easily glue or epoxy these down also.

I have been using them in my 1/3 scale extra and my Yak. I picked them up at toledo last year and they work great. The only problem I have had is the tab will bend and break after repeated uses so you have to have a few spares sitting around. I use them on the elevators and ailerons of my Yak
Old 03-28-2005, 08:25 AM
  #3735  
matus777
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

"with antenna down and transmitter close to plane"


In my limited experience this is not entirely abnormal. Try extending one ant. length and point ant away from the RCVR and step back a few paces.....if it still behaves as you say then you might have an issue....good luck!
Old 03-28-2005, 09:07 AM
  #3736  
bodywerks
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly


ORIGINAL: flyingcrazy

Well I got mine out and I have a twist in the fuse. I strapped mine down and checked it with a level it is a twist . I tryed to twist it back and shrink it back while holding it the other way after wetting it did not work . I straped it down and leveled it up on a sand bag so it would not move and tyed a weight on the hight side of the tail tube so it pulled the fin level will let it set till it drys . I think it will work . Heres some pic of how I strappted it down .
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE TELL ME YOU ARE NOT TRYING TO TWIST THE FUSE BY THE STAB TUBE!!!!![:@][:@]
That is one of the reasons the fuse isn't twisting back and why you should not do that. You have no fuse twisting leverage at the stab tube, but you DEFINITELY risk doing one heck of a number on the stab tube cutout in the fuse.
You need to clamp the fuse down on its side by the engine box and clamp a lever to the vertical fin and straighten it that way. Here's a direct link to my post on how I fixed my fuse. It is still deadnuts str8 nearly a month later...
My method:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2743544
Dave763's method:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2742119

As you can see, we both used a lever against the vertical fin. I tell you, IMO, that this fuse WANTS to be straight...it was the covering process that twisted it. Check to make sure you didn't do any damage to the stab tube cutout and re try it.
Old 03-28-2005, 09:29 AM
  #3737  
Dave763
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

I had to check mine, after all, it has been awhile since I straightened my fuse. I'm happy to report that it still looks perfect! I clamped the motor box and the fin post at the rear of the fuse to apply the opposing forces, not the stab tube.

Dave
ORIGINAL: bodyworks


ORIGINAL: flyingcrazy

Well I got mine out and I have a twist in the fuse. I strapped mine down and checked it with a level it is a twist . I tryed to twist it back and shrink it back while holding it the other way after wetting it did not work . I straped it down and leveled it up on a sand bag so it would not move and tyed a weight on the hight side of the tail tube so it pulled the fin level will let it set till it drys . I think it will work . Heres some pic of how I strappted it down .
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE TELL ME YOU ARE NOT TRYING TO TWIST THE FUSE BY THE STAB TUBE!!!!![:@][:@]
That is one of the reasons the fuse isn't twisting back and why you should not do that. You have no fuse twisting leverage at the stab tube, but you DEFINITELY risk doing one heck of a number on the stab tube cutout in the fuse.
You need to clamp the fuse down on its side by the engine box and clamp a lever to the vertical fin and straighten it that way. Here's a direct link to my post on how I fixed my fuse. It is still deadnuts str8 nearly a month later...
My method:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2743544
Dave763's method:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2742119

As you can see, we both used a lever against the vertical fin. I tell you, IMO, that this fuse WANTS to be straight...it was the covering process that twisted it. Check to make sure you didn't do any damage to the stab tube cutout and re try it.
Old 03-28-2005, 10:11 AM
  #3738  
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

DrScoles, did you do anything to keep your elevator extensions from falling back inside the fuse when your stabs are off? I can't use the 24" extensions I originally bought, they are just too short. I'll have to get a pair of 36" or just double up extensions and get a couple more 12"ers. I wonder how much power loss is in an additional connector?
I just put a small slit in the covering for the wire to go through... If you already cut the whole thing out, just fasten the wires to the floor with something... If the 24" are too short, why don't you just lengthen them? that way you won't end up with a ball of excess wire somewhere.... Either use an old extender, or some wire, and a soldering gun and make them just right. I see all these servo connector keepers and stuff.... easier (or more thorough) route is to eliminate the connectors and solder them. Takes a little more time, but you will appreciate it later.. (and the guys at the field won't give you **** for wires sticking everywhere )

Do you use tygon inside the tank? I cut a piece and put the clunk on it but it's too stiff to fall on it's own. Instructions with the gas stopper say to use the black stuff (brain fart, I can't think of the name).
Are you talking about Hayes fuel line? Stuff is AWESOME for nitro, will never wear out, not sure about gas. With that heavy of a clunk, I would worry about the Hayes folding over and pinching... I used tygon.... Is that the right chioice???? It seemed flexible enough, but I have little experience with gassers.....

Thanks, Mike
Old 03-28-2005, 10:37 AM
  #3739  
ten pillows
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

Thanks jrjohn, your cowl looks good. I will try to do a better job with the new on. I am inclined to agree it must be an art. One of which I have much to learn!

ten pillows
Old 03-28-2005, 10:45 AM
  #3740  
stomper
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly


ORIGINAL: DrScoles

DrScoles, did you do anything to keep your elevator extensions from falling back inside the fuse when your stabs are off? I can't use the 24" extensions I originally bought, they are just too short. I'll have to get a pair of 36" or just double up extensions and get a couple more 12"ers. I wonder how much power loss is in an additional connector?
I just put a small slit in the covering for the wire to go through... If you already cut the whole thing out, just fasten the wires to the floor with something... If the 24" are too short, why don't you just lengthen them? that way you won't end up with a ball of excess wire somewhere.... Either use an old extender, or some wire, and a soldering gun and make them just right. I see all these servo connector keepers and stuff.... easier (or more thorough) route is to eliminate the connectors and solder them. Takes a little more time, but you will appreciate it later.. (and the guys at the field won't give you **** for wires sticking everywhere )

Do you use tygon inside the tank? I cut a piece and put the clunk on it but it's too stiff to fall on it's own. Instructions with the gas stopper say to use the black stuff (brain fart, I can't think of the name).
Are you talking about Hayes fuel line? Stuff is AWESOME for nitro, will never wear out, not sure about gas. With that heavy of a clunk, I would worry about the Hayes folding over and pinching... I used tygon.... [b]Is that the right chioice????[/b] It seemed flexible enough, but I have little experience with gassers.....

Thanks, Mike
I have used Tygon in tanks but this stuff is much better. >
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD735&P=0

I will be trying Aerotrend Easy Flex on this plane to see how if it stays flexible.
Old 03-28-2005, 11:46 AM
  #3741  
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

"quote:

Do you use tygon inside the tank? I cut a piece and put the clunk on it but it's too stiff to fall on it's own. Instructions with the gas stopper say to use the black stuff (brain fart, I can't think of the name). "


You might be refering to NEOPREME hose? I have used it with no problems. The only thing you need to be aware of is the size, ID. Some of the stuff is too thin walled and can tear easily when whipped about by the clunk. Make sure you use the thicker material and that your tubing does not have sharp edges....i drain my tank and have not had any issues just make it right sized for your tubing.
Old 03-28-2005, 11:57 AM
  #3742  
jrjohn
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly


ORIGINAL: matus777

"quote:

Do you use tygon inside the tank? I cut a piece and put the clunk on it but it's too stiff to fall on it's own. Instructions with the gas stopper say to use the black stuff (brain fart, I can't think of the name). "


You might be refering to NEOPREME hose? I have used it with no problems. The only thing you need to be aware of is the size, ID. Some of the stuff is too thin walled and can tear easily when whipped about by the clunk. Make sure you use the thicker material and that your tubing does not have sharp edges....i drain my tank and have not had any issues just make it right sized for your tubing.
I just ordered the dubro neopreme hose that douge give the hyperlink too. it's 3/32 ID. Is that the right size?

John
Old 03-28-2005, 01:32 PM
  #3743  
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

I am using the SWB rudder servo arm with the pull-pull connectors. What can I use to hold the lines together when they loop back together ? When you buy a dubro pull-pull kit, they give you the crimps to hold the lines.
Thanks,
Craig
Old 03-28-2005, 01:40 PM
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

So how many times should I have to flip this motor over before I see fuel goiing to the carb???

Thanks, Mike
Old 03-28-2005, 01:46 PM
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

Pretty sure you need crimps. Go to the tackle shop or Wally world. Maybe small dia. copper or aluminium tubing, cut to short lengths and used as crimps. I like to loop the end of the cable back thropugh the crimp. Maybe someone else has another idea.

Dave
ORIGINAL: ckoerner

I am using the SWB rudder servo arm with the pull-pull connectors. What can I use to hold the lines together when they loop back together ? When you buy a dubro pull-pull kit, they give you the crimps to hold the lines.
Thanks,
Craig
Old 03-28-2005, 01:48 PM
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

As many times as it takes.
ORIGINAL: DrScoles

So how many times should I have to flip this motor over before I see fuel goiing to the carb???

Thanks, Mike
Old 03-28-2005, 01:50 PM
  #3747  
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

that was helpful..thanks
Old 03-28-2005, 01:53 PM
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

Has anyone ever tried nylon screws to hold the cowl on? I'm thinking of trying some 8-32 nylon screws and tap the mounting ears. Hopefully the nylon will have enough give to absorb the vibration and keep the cowl from cracking but still be strong enough to hold it solid. I'm hoping they will stay tight unlike most other screws I have used to hold cowls.

Has anyone tried to fit one in the back of a short bed pickup yet, less wings of course?
Matt
Old 03-28-2005, 02:03 PM
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly

ORIGINAL: basmntdweller
Has anyone tried to fit one in the back of a short bed pickup yet, less wings of course?
Matt
I have a 6.5' bed. It should fit on an angle(hopefully), but my problem is I have a low fiberglass cover. The rudder is taller then my cover. [] So I will have to prop it up 1.5" for it to fit. The bad thing is I can't lock it. Time for one of those ugly taller shell covers.
Old 03-28-2005, 02:05 PM
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Default RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly


ORIGINAL: DrScoles

So how many times should I have to flip this motor over before I see fuel goiing to the carb???

Thanks, Mike
If everything is brand new and never seen fuel, it may actually NEVER draw fuel on it's own. It's very rare, but I've heard of people sending brand new Walbro carbs back, saying they won't draw fuel, But after the engine has been running, they work flawless from then on. Try completely covering the intake with the palm of your hand, so it CANNOT suck any air through the intake, then it will draw fuel by the much higher suction of the piston rather than relying on the tiny diaphragm (that might be dry) I have never had a problem, and most of the engines are run at the factory, so it shouldn't be a problem, the ones I have heard having problems are the brand new carbs, fresh out of a box, that had never been installed on an engine.

In any case, use your hand to completely block the airflow into the carb, or prime it by pouring a little fuel into the carb, and start it, hopefully once it's running, it will draw fuel on it's own.

And, not to overlook the simple things, are the needle valves completely closed? that would give you the same problem.

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