coche

My Feedback: (4)

no, no, no!!!!!
gorila glue its the best!!!

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Gorilla glue rules! [8D] I will never use epoxy on hinges again. No smell, no mess, no fuss, fast and strong as steel.

Torqued-Up

My Feedback: (16)

Just weld it and be done with it!!!!

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

LOL, there ya go.

Hey guys, gotta go out on my lunch break and pick up the bolts to mount my DA tonight. I forgot to check last night on what I need. I'm using the standard 2-1/2" standoffs, and don't know what size/length bolts I need to go through the firewall into the back end of the standoffs? Can someone help me out here so I can make a run at lunch?

Thx,

Tom

EXTREME FLIGHT

1/4-20 x 3/4"

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Chris! That's what I thought, but couldn't remember for sure

Thanks a bunch,

Tom

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Just found out that both of my DA50's do not have the rod update. Both are only a few months old, never been run (S#2697 and 2704). I called DA today, and while one has the carb mod and the other doesn't, they told me that neither has the rod mod unless A) I've sent them in for the mod, or B) the engines were produced within the last couple weeks.

I know the 50's have been out there in mass for quite some time, and I haven't come across anyone personally that has had a problem with this. I really don't want to pull them and send them in, cause these are my only two planes to fly this year, I just finished one (Vision) and almost done with the other (Yak), and we are in our first week of flying weather in nearly 6 months!!! []

What is you guys' take on this issue? Is it worth me missing my first month of flying to avoid a problem that may never happen? If I fly them and one or the other has a problem, I should be able to send that one in and still have the other to fly while waiting. Any "real" potential for damaging the engine further by flying it as is?

Thanks,

Tom

pequeajim

My Feedback: (1)

I have a few questions:

Who here is using the Cip Hyde can with the DA-50?
Do you have any pictures of your installation?
If you had a choice again right now, would you still use the same setup?
Plusses and minuses?

I know bit of this information has been posted, but I thought it might be a good thing to concentrate our thoughts on this can in a few short messages. Plus, I would love to see some pics of an installation.

Jim!

matus777

"If I fly them and one or the other has a problem, I should be able to send that one in and still have the other to fly while waiting. "

Neo, with DA's customer service and quick T/A times i think ou hit on the solution....and if by very, very slim chance you do any damage (do not know of anyone who has yet) DA will basically zero time your engine anyway. Happy flying!

stomper

My Feedback: (20)

Start with this page, post 1585 by David >
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_24...53/key_/tm.htm

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Matus [8D]

Yep, no more than I get to fly anymore... and the way the DA sips fuel... and breaking in two planes at once...

By the end of the season, they probably won't be far from zero hours! I'll be lucky to get 2 gallons through each engine if I fly them both this summer. I think I'll go ahead and put 'em in the air and see how they act by summer's end.

If one acts up, she goes back for the mod and I fly the other. If they both behave... Maybe pull and send them this winter?

Tom

pequeajim

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, I will..

flyingcrazy

My Feedback: (28)

I just found a way to use the stock pull pull set up that will work. Just tie a knot in the wire PULL IT TIGHT then dip the knot in J B weld pull it in side then put the 4-40 stock screw in behind it tighten it up let it set up and you cant pull it out I dont think you can pull your work bench around with your 4x4 but it will hold on your EF- Yak.

Those look very similar to the stock setup, only larger to allow a knot rather than a small coil of cable. I made very tight coils, and made 3 turns (I think he recommends two) I think what is happening , is many people are not getting the coils tight enough, which allows it to hang up on the threads, rather than go all the way to the bottom, maybe just one or two strands get free, and get caught in the threads. After a turn or two, with the stray strands wedged in the threads, you think it's tight, even though there still may be a void at the bottom of that cavity. The vibration soon breaks the few strands and then there is nothing left, so it pulls out. I made sure my coils were very tightly wound so that I could push the wire and coil back out without it hanging up, and I was sure to tighten it real good. After I twisted off two allen wrenches I knew it was tight............I know I know, that is the other extreme, but I have confidence in this system.
[/quote]

somethin else

My Feedback: (17)

Stopped by the field this past sunday and maidened my buddy Dennis's Yak. And all I can say is wow. This plane flies so light its amazing. It just doesn't do justice to hear about it, you need to get some stick time to realize how well this plane is built and flies. Kudos to Extreme. I saw the 35% at Toledo and cant wait to get my hands on one of thoes. Just an awesome plane and Chris is an upstanding guy. We need more people like him in the hobby

tim

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

I am running one...well, not "running" yet, but I installed one. the plusses are:
1) quieter and cooler sounding than just about any exhaust, except the tuned pipe maybe.
2)200 rpm improvement over the stock muffler, and even more than that for the pitts style mufflers.
3) almost a "bolt-on" installation. It was rediculously simple...
4) no funky cutting or ugly pipe pointing out of the cowl...exhaust is in a more scale location.
Minuses are:
1) a $200 setup verses $50 for the stock.
2) just over 8 ounces heavier than stock (but the effective thrust from the rpm increase is 12 ounces more than stock)
3) for about $50 more you can get a tuned pipe, but the exhaust is in a funky location and gettin a forward CG will be very difficult.

I think it is an awesome setup and I saved weight in several places to compensate...mine came in at 15.5 lbs.

here is a link to the post where pics of the install can be viewed. It goes on to the next page:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2644548

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

Here are the same pics, same user, at a different site, might be much easier to refer back to.

[link=http://extremeflightyak.shutupandfly.com/hype_pipe_mount.htm]http://extremeflightyak.shutupandfly.com/hype_pipe_mount.htm[/link]

matus777

"If one acts up, she goes back for the mod and I fly the other. If they both behave... Maybe pull and send them this winter?

Tom"


Neo, keep the mounted one on the bird you intend to fly & send the other one in, then repeat the process and in about 3 weeks you'll have all updated front pull!

basmntdweller

My Feedback: (9)

I just got a new set of scales capable of weighing my Yak. I must have got the "pig" of the litter. Mine weighed in at 16lb 5oz. DA 50 with slimline smoke muffler(no smoke system, just planning ahead) Hitec 5945s and a Futaba 9352 on rudder. I have a pair of 5 cell 1650 NiMh packs for the radio and a 4 cell 2000 pack for ignition. Comparing to some of the stated weights earlier in this thread, my packs and switches are only 2 oz heavier than some of Li-ion setups. The only "heavy" thing I have is the Dave Brown spinner.
I am amazed at how far I had to move my rx packs to move the CG. First flights were with the CG just aft of the wing tube CL. I had to move both packs from the motor box to behind the rudder. That put the CG about 1/4" behind the rearmost recommended location. That should be just about right for me. I had quite a bit up up elevator trim for level flight at about half throttle. I'm hoping to get that zeroed out by moving the CG back.
I got to admit, The plane still flew pretty much like a foamy even with the forward CG. Wayne wasn't lyin!
Matt

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

Matt,

I think some of the difference in your weight and a lot of peoples is most of us are only running one RX battery pack, and one switch.
Thats more than a few Oz difference but your jus about a pound heavier than mine. I wonder why...

Oh well..
It will still have a lighter wing loading than anything else in its class at that weight.

J. AVANT

My Feedback: (11)

Is there any part of this plane that you can just put together and move on to the next step without having to twist it back into shape? 1st, twisted fuse,2nd, elevators don't line up when counter balances are even.3rd, canopy doesn't match fuse but at the turtle deck top. Hey, but the cowl fit well. Have not got to the wings yet.

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

That's just it... I intend to fly both of them! Crap, I'll probably send the one for the Yak in first, since it's not done yet. The Vision is ready to go and there's good weather coming this weekend!

However, I'd like to get the engine installation "done" on the Yak first, then pull it and send it in. That way when it comes back, I can just slap it on and go. We're still not in "prime weather" here yet, so I would like to finish the building aspect before it gets real nice out.

That leads me to my next "dilemna"... that blasted choke! [:@] I just can't figure out what I want to do with that thing. Definitely not a servo, that much I know. The method in the manual looks like something that would produce a lot of rattling, but be relatively easy to use.

I can't get to a choke "linkage rod" through the front of the cowl, cause there's not enough room for my hand between the big fiberglass spinner and the cowl opening/edges.

Then there's the "choke tool" idea... which I just really don't understand. Seems it would be very hard to stick a tool up into the cowl and find the hole in the choke arm? Maybe I'm not following?

On the Vision, I ran a nyrod back into the cockpit for manual choking. But, I've got the hatch-latch on it, so it's easy enough to pop on and off to get to the choke. I could do that on the Yak too, but I'm still not decided on whether I trust the latch for the big canopy on the Yak. I certainly don't want to be fiddling with 4 bolts every time I want to turn the choke on or off!

Tom

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

Neo,

Drew and I are just using a piece of Nyrod that extends forward in the cowl. Easy to grab and pull or push.

jpa2002

My Feedback: (115)

Here is my choke tool, and yes it can be difficult to see in there, but it is not bad at all. The velcro is so that I can attach it to the plane and not leave it at home when I go to the field!

Jon

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

In comparison to my plane, at 15lbs, 9.2 ounces, lets see why your plane is so "heavy"...
My Li-ion setup, complete, including regulators and switches and smartfly, weighs 13.6 ounces. Assuming 3 switches in your system, your setup is at least 18 ounces...let's just call it 1/4 lb heavier
If you are running the stock wheels and you used the wheel pants, add 5.5 ounces. I ran no wheel pants and dave brown wheels.
I am running the Petemodels spinner. It's around 3 ounces and yours is probably around 5.5-6, let's say yours is 3 ounces heavier.
So you have about 12 ounces of extra equipment... do the math and it adds up. You didn't get the tank version, you just added more weight in equipment.

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Wayne and Jon, much clearer now. Both good ideas that I can explore. That's what I love about this thread... always an answer.

Tom