bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

It explains exactly why the reed block needs to not be rotated with the carb...to keep the pulse port on the bottom to keep disturbing the fuel that tends to puddle up there. The reed valves should have no preference as to what position they are in as long as they are all seated, just like you said...

flat spin

I hear what you are saying but what difference does it make to the reed block itself. You rotate the black part around it like you said to stop pooling but why should you not turn the reed block with it. Like i said it is symetrical so i can't see how that would either fix or alleviate the problem of them not seating properly.

Anyway if it works what the H i'm not bothered and my engine runs sweet now. Shame i bust my rudder today though damn bag slipped of my shoulder right across the rudder whilst i was loading it[:@]

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

It is our terminology that has you disagreeing with me. I refer to the black thingy that the nipple goes into as the reed block, that white part I would consider to be part of the reed assembly. If it is the white thingy you're talking about, it is not an important part of the mod and, as you said is symmetrical and can be rotated with the carb and is not part of the mod....agreed?

rmh

All paint -I wil be adding some vinyl graphics tho---

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Ok here is the results of my maiden flight. Absolutley beautiful! waterfalls, elevators, torque rolling very sweet. flys as lite as my U-Can-Do 3D but capable of better 3D. I'm so impressed! I now have a Russia wife and a Russian plane. They both perform better than I ever expected.

Can I complain a little??? Ok thanks.... On the third flight, as I was pulling the throttle back, the plane stayed at half throttle. I could not land the plane because I didn't have a choke servo or a engine cut off servo. I had to fly for 20 mins, run the thing out of gas and dead stick. Not a problem as I used to own supertigre engines and never made a landing with the engine running anyway, so I had lots of training.

After landing I dragged the plane back and did an inspection, everything looked fine, not to mention the throttle was now working. Against my better judgment I went up again, (1/2 tank of gas just in case)

sure as death and taxes the throttle servo stopped working again, another dead stick and inspection showed the servo was not working, and was never going to work again. It has a little resistance when the power is on but won't move when told too. It didn't feel hot. The servo is a brand new 5245MG hitec. I had one go bad last year as well. Is anybody else having trouble with this servo, or know anthing about it. I spent a little extra money for a digital throttle and this is what I got.

John

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

is that the digital mini? That's what I got. I have 3 in use, actually...one for the throttle on this one and two for the ailerons on my Excelleron 90. Only got a few flights between them though, but I haven't had any problems yet...

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Yes it's the digital Mini. it will be the 5th Hitec I will have to return in the last year.

1 81MG
2 5945 MG
2 5245 MG

I will say, Hitec fixes or replaces everything very quickly.

John

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Here are some pics of my canopy... Still need to black out the canopy behind the pilot.... I think it turned out nice, but its gonna add about 6oz, and my cg is now offically screwed.... Cost about 110 to do this.... Pilot looks cool, but I think I'd go with the foamy that other guys have used...save weight..








Mike

Vic3D

My Feedback: (19)

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Vic3D

My Feedback: (19)

ahem ahem, thats 5 weeks now

flat spin

Try again he must have missed it. Calling from the Uk i have phoned when he gets in many times and he can sometimes wait 10mins easy just for his e-mails to upload after the weekend so it must be easy for hom to mis a few.

Mudsurfer1234

HEELLLPPP!!! lol

I got a prob, I went to the feild today, we tried to start the DA, nothing happened. After 2 hours of flipping prop, we came home and looked at it closer

It appears that the fuel isn't getting passed the carb. It goes into the carb, so much that it is coming out near the choke. It's not going into the tube connecting the carb and the engine. There is a BB sized dot of fuel, it jumps back and forth when the prop is flipped, but does not go into engine.

Any help?

Thanks,
Scott

flat spin

The fuel is not suposed to travel through that bit of tube. If you can visibly see fuel travel down the main fuel line to the carb then it is getting in there. Start by screwing your needles all the way in and then out reseting them to the position that you would have noted on first screwing them in. Make sure you are ot inadvertantly flooding the engine and if so close the throttle all of the way ie hold the throttle cut switch down and tunr it over so there is no fuel going thoough for at least 6 or 7 flips, This should clear it and it should go straight away after that. If none of the above works then you may have a dodgy ignition. Air, spark and fuel. If you have all of them the engine will fire however bad it is.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I just posted that I ran out of fuel resulting in a crash... I was wrong, looking at the remains here on the workbench, there is a decent amount of fuel left.... just got unlucky with a flame out... happened as I was climbing out from a touch and go... about 30' up... firewall came off, landing gear ripped whole bottom of plane out... wings and stabs are perfect... already left message with Chris to order a fuse! I didn't have enough room to do a 180 to bring it back, I know I would have stalled it... so I just kept the wings level and landed it in the plowed field adjacent to ours...unfortunately it wasn't the nice soft freshly plowed dirt, rather the hard crusty stuff that likes to eat airplanes....[:@]

Oh well, not the end of the world....

Mike

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

The proper technique for clearing a flood, with pretty much any internal combustion engine is with the throttle fully open. You need to get air in there to mix with the "extra" fuel to flush it out and get the mixture correct, if the throttle is closed, you are not letting in much air. I recommend disconnecting the fuel line to the carb as well, now you know you can't make the condition worse, as you are ONLY letting air in. an interesting note, most modern fuel injected cars have a "mode" to clear floods (although it's very rare) typically if you mash the accelerator to the floor, while cranking, the fuel pump will be disabled, to allow lots of air in, and no fuel. In the days of carburetors, you still held the throttle wide open, (just like our model engines) and you just hoped that the extra air would be enough to offset the fuel, (even though you are still allowing fuel in)

flat spin

sure if you can remove the fuel line but that is not always the easiest thing to do. If not too major turning it over without letting any additional fuel in always work for me. This still however may not be the problem anyway. I hope it is for your sakes.

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

well if you don't remove the fuel line, and you close the throttle completely, it will take forever to "crank" the flood out, you may as well just wait a bit and let it evaporate. I guess that was my point, that you ARE still letting fuel in, making the condition worse (fuel but no air) unless you closed the needle valve completely when you closed the throttle. Not sure what you mean by that, I didn't have any trouble starting my engine, I guess you didn't notice who said what.

flat spin

Mudsurfer is the one with the problem and i hope it was a simple case of flooding in his case rather than anything more serious.

Dave763

My Feedback: (1)

Scott, it sounds like you flooded the engine. While trying to start mine with the ing turned off, I flooded mine, duh. Gas was dripping out of the carb. Did not take much to get it going after that with the ing on and the choke open. Fuel line connected.
Be sure to check for spark if it still wont fire up.
A couple of times the engine flooded with the ing. and choke on, I just kept flipping waiting for it to pop then die. If you see gas dripping its flooded.


Hope this helps, Dave

rmh

I finished up my preflights today - ran engine, checked out bolts/nuts etc..
The paint job has some problems - so --I am going to re do the fuselage using Ultracote cut to same pattern .
The Krylon Fusion simply does not grab well on Ultracote - but other stuff does -such as the Short Cuts by Krylon -anyway just some outside work with thinner and a rag and some ironing --rats .
The cowl and canopy however, gave no problems .
The new model small AMT pipe works very well --first off -it is 31" straight back from the spark plug to the end of the stinger .
The throttle response is linear from idle to full revs on 23x8 to 22x8 (Mejzlic).
all installed on new header is almost exactly same power as read on test stand and older style pipe .
7700 on the 22x8 and 7200 on the 23x8 and 22x10 (edited)
So - I will be using the 23x8 -mainly because it turns very easily and has more bite.
The smaller prop still should work well as long as the throttle is not run full open in level flight .
Based on my tach ignition ROTO25 used on another plane --this rpm (7700 ) would easily result in revs way into the 8000 rpm band during unloaded level flight .
Not necessary to run that fast.
So If the rains ever decide to go away-we will go beat the sh-- out of it.
here are more pics - the pilot is Gardin - the other guy Ivan, looking in does not get to fly it .
he weighs 1.7 ounces - Gardin weighs less- 1.2 ounces -he has a Bowflexski.
I should give credit to son Chris- he sculpted the busts --
I can't get him to make new ones tho --He is working on a movie being shot in San Francisco -
He does the special effects, slash 'n gore etc..
He has worked on a number of earlier movies doing creatures /effects etc -
Men in Black etc..
Look for his name when they scroll thru special effect on "scary" movies --

chipwill

My Feedback: (12)

Awesome Dick!

Cant wait to see pics of it at the field. The workshop doesnt do it justice.

chip

matus777

Dick next time (assuming you did not?) try a product called "Prepsol" and clean any areas to be painted with this product. It was (maybe still is) used in the auto painting area. It really cleans the surface to be pained and prepares it to "accept" the paint.......just an idea!

rmh

We did prep it - but the problem was that the remask for second color just picked up small slivers of color -maybe a Scothbrite rub will help -
TheFusion paint dries very rapidly - and on th cowl -No problem -so getting a proper "tooth" for the Ultracote is what is required .
When I get a moment I will do some serious repair -but itf it is still bad -I will go ahead with the applique of Ultracote .
I already pi--ed away two days and some pocket change on this job---

Mudsurfer1234

Got the DA started, thanks for the help guys!

We just let it sit for a while, checked spark, put it back together tried again, nothing, so i said "well, flip it faster"

fired up after about 3 flips, and ran for about 10 seconds on choke.

opened choke, started on 5th flip

Thanks for the help,
Scott