Maudib

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Working on designing my logo package (since weather isn't cooperating for flying)









More to come!

chipwill

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Thats sweet Maudib!

Weather does suck. Might get to fly tomorrow.

Chip

bodywerks

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The right wing says it all...I don't even know why I am still considering a H9 260[sm=rolleyes.gif]

vertical ts

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I just flew mine for the first time today.I never doubted it,BUT,Every bit of the hype is true.This is one bad ***** airplane!

going vert

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Bling city!!! Very cool.

Are you going to sell some of that bling?

Maudib

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Anyone can get a hold of me via PM or e-mail to find out how to get some Maudib Bling...

I piddled some more today... tried cutting some interesting border and it turned out quite elegant looking... then I have a plethora of RC logos already handy, including some custom made ones... my buddy Tom "Neo" made up a sweet one for Bisson Spinners as well as SmartFly and added a few new logos to my collection like Relion and Fromeco.

'bout got it done... now if the wind would lay down!

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Here's some of the new handywork Tom helped out with... he just finished having me cut the graphics for his today too and his is pretty much done too...

BTW... the Yak54 logo is based off of a design Mike Badger put together... Sticking with the original Yak logo and adding a a bolder/modern 54 to it looks great I think!

JWilliams

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I did put a cowl ring in mine and I really like it.
Jeff W.

J. AVANT

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EF. YAK For sale, I know this is not the place to sell planes but I thought I would give you YAK guys first shot at it. PM me with your phone number if you are interested in it.

READY TO FLY.

Ontariomystic

I'm using Futaba 9351 servos on the ailerons and elevators. These servos have a small amount of play in the gearing. When I release the surfaces from full deflection the surface fludders when it stops at center. Do the Hitec or JR servos do this?

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

OK, still sitting here in cold windy Ohio weather... so I got my decals all done on my Yak too.

Here's the cool vinyl that Maudib cut up for me from the logos we have been building. [8D]

Tom

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

And here's the wings and tail.

Tom

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

David, nice bling bling,

NE0

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Hmmmm, so Russians use a "?" for a "Y", an "A" and a "K" huh???? So how do they know whether a "?" is a Y, an A or a K? Maybe it says KAK, or KAY or AKY!

Tom

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

This weekend I re-mounted my cowl with the PSP mfg cowl binders. It's the best system I have seen to date, bar none. very neat, and easy to install if done correctly.

There is a little trick to making them work on the Yak cowl, being that the cowl is so thin ou need to modify them a tad. Also if you are converting to 4-40 socket screw instead of the provided socket head wood screws, there is another small mod. If anybody plans to use them, let me know and I'll give you the demensions and mods.

My guess is that if you crashed nose first into the ground at a high rate of speed, the only good part of your cowl would be located imediatly around the cowl binders

JOhn

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

I think our alphabet has about 26 letters, the Russias have 32. some of them sound the same as our letter and some are completly different. the backwords R (�)has the sound of a Y, the K in the Russian alphabet has the same sound as our K.

john

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Gotcha. Actually, I don't know how far off the logo Dave and I are using is. It's not the same as the stock EF logo that Chris supplies. If you look at this pic, you'll see that the first character really is not far from a "backwards R" except for it's a little "stylized" as many script fonts are. Much like the letter "K" is... it's modified quite a bit for the style of the font.

Tom

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Another example. This is the word "RANDY" written in a highly stylized, "handwritten" font style. Not the letter "R" in RANDY is actually a backwards version of our "Russian Y" in our logo. Sometimes certain characters can look completely different in one font than they do in another font... almost to the point that you don't know what the letter is.

Tom

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Tom, I agree with you, it's stylized to the max. Where did dave get those made? I want a couple!

John

rmh

Are any of you guy's flying your models?
Other than "It flies great " comments , any specifics on your preferrences for CG setups for aerobatics -or just 3D flailing around?
For example -the setup I am currently flying balances on centre of wing tube - empty tank - seems very good for more precision flying yet is good for all but flips etc..
I am running all the throw possible on all surfaces (note earlier pics on page 158) using 8411 aileron and 8611 -one driving both elevators -one drivingrudder
all on 1 6V 2700 ma NIMH seems to be plenty of poop

CHassan

My Feedback: (13)

I think Wayne said his flew a little nose heavy, and if you have seen the video you can see how "great" it flies.
I recall a few others have said they are moving the cg back on theirs. Don't know where everyones is set but mine is about dead center on the yellow stripe (I like to be precise on my CG ), and with any luck will get off the ground teusday. I am hoping mine will fly "great" also.

TailTouch

My Feedback: (54)

My CG is 7 3/4" from LE. Flies great...requires a slight touch of down elevator when inverted.
I now have a gallon thru the DA....time to tweak the needles a little bit I think. It hesitates a little bit when throtlling up when I first start it.

rmh

Wayne's video - with Mc Conville flogging it?
looked fine -Mike is very good flogger .
His roll rate looked a bit lower than mine -but at our altitude we get faster rolls (thin air.)
The flops and sinking stuff looked about the same - very stable in extremely deep sinking stuff.
Brian -who flew mine for the pics, also good at this stuff .
I am not at ease with the really low rolling stuff - -too easy for me to loose it -so I save that crap for my big foamies.
But this model seems like it is as good at this as any scale like gassers I have flown - --
I am now doing a "Jack the Giant Killer" setup with a ZDZ80 on a pipe -
The power to weight is simple obscene.
Or as we all say here -- just right.
I found on the YAK that good inside OR outside snaps need very low elevator throws especially in any 45 or vertical lines .
If you do much over 20% of throw -even for a instant - the model gets way too deep
If you poke in full elev on a inverted 45 down line - it simply does a flat 360!
The 40% Carden does same thing - just a matter of sorting things out - so watch for it

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Dave makes them himself... he's got the cutter, vinyl, etc. in house. Just ask him, he's ready to take your order!

Tom

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

here is my cowl binder mod, the hole in the mounting tab is only 1/32 deep, and 7/16 wide. It's made with a 7/16 forstner bit. This allows the inside half of the cowlbinder to recess into the hole.

The neck of the outside half of the cowlbinder needs to be sanded down until this half is about .193 thousands thick. The cowl is so thin that the cowl binder will not sandwitch it tightly unless you do this. (if all cowls are the same thickness as mine)

Then get rid of the little wood screws and convert to 4/40 socket head screws. You won't find a washer that will countersink into the cowlbinder, However if you drill out a # 2 stainless washer to accept a 4-40 screw it will recess perfectly. You need a washer so the screw doesn't raise hell with the rubber incert.

when you make the 5/16 hole in the cowl, I highly reccomend using a reemer, the cowl binder should fit snug with no play!



john