flatlandmike

My Feedback: (17)

for those of us who will not be using a tuned pipe maybe mounting the tank under the tube in the space where the the tunnel is will be a good spot for the tank on the CG

any thoughts from you gents on this

going vert

My Feedback: (11)

IMO - If you are going to do some serious 3D / IMAC 5645s are a little slow - even at 6V. But if you are just learning 3D / IMAC I'm sure they will be fine.

I just learned of another 5955 failure resulting in a crash. I'm not passing judgment on these servos, but this is the second failure I've heard of. I don't want to start a Hitec war on this thread - it's just something to think about. If you are going to drop 2500K on this plane, motor and electronics I would run the best Futaba or JR servo on the rudder.

PS - I am running 5945s on this plane and have had good results - so I'm not going after Hitec.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Yup,

the jury is still out on the 5955...give it a year to get sorted out. 8611 on my rudder.

5945's are great servos....I am using them.


Flatland...that is a great idea. but who wants to cut the pretty tunnel out first?...not me.

It would be a great way to do it if you were going with a smoke system...hmmmm.
Of course couldn;t you find a tank to go IN the tunnel?? just asking, I don't know.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Actually it is stronger as i have it... the force is pulling across the grain vertically, 2" of stacking the strength... might as well be a 2X4...

Cutting slots and going through the box would have your stress going across the grain but only 1/16 thick.

If you wanted to go tot eh extra trouble, you coule do something similar to the doublers used in the tuned pipe install...

Box around the pipe with liteply... maybe something like this:

(BTW JDS can you edit your post and delete out the /image tags? That way we don't have duplicates of the image taking up bandwidth)

Absolut Yak

My Feedback: (4)

To change the subject slightly, How big are the shipping boxes this thing comes in? I am picking one up when they come in and have to choose the right vehicle for the job. In other words, Tundra with tonneau cover, Pathfinder with the back open, or trailer? It's a gas mileage and comfort thing. I know someone posted box dimensions way, way back, but this thread has turned into its own monster and I'm not re-reading it just now.

Doug

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I just checked and the stock 20 oz will JUST fit in with the width of the tank pressing against the sides... a 16" tank has about 1/8" clearance on the sides.

A person "could" cut a hatch underneath where a Dubro 16 oz tank would slide up inside. (Similar to what they show for the pipe tunnel). You could cut a couple of stops out of balsa and glue them in fore and aft of the tank and glue some 1/4" foam rubber to the top and sides of te tunnel, then squeeze the tank in place. Finally gluing a couple padded cross braces underneath to secure it vertically.

Basically a hidden tank on CG... You could pull your fuel line up (or two) through a hole in the pipe channel inside the fuse to get to a fuel dot & then to the carb... (I'd cut out a liteply disc as a stress reliever)

Then either cover back over the opening with covering or build some more elaborate remoavble hatch...

I can't see any reason not to do it this way... should be just fine. I DO prefer to have the tank where I can see it... I can at a glance know when the fueling and defueling is complete... not to mention the ability to quickly access and remove the tank should the need arise.

My take on the channel is that is is a VERY strong structural element... it ties in with all but two of the formers in the plane... While the plane might fare well without it... it certainly is a much stronger fuse for it's presence...

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

you won't have any problems... It's less than 15" tall by 25" wide and 64" long...

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Douge, Is everything in 1 box?

John

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Speaking of tanks...

Many of you already do this, but I wanted to state it for the benefit of newer builders...

It is a good idea to assemble your tank and then connect a short piece of fuel line between the two outlets... (on a 3 line tank plug the 3rd outlet)

Fill the tank half full or so and let it sit a good while in a bucket leaning on it's nose so that the gas covers the stopper area and all the tank outlets.

This will test the stopper and outlets for any leaks... (I like to leave mine for 24-48 hours even and let the gas have time to work ont he materials)

It's a simple little thing that can save you a plane soaked in gas...

Uh... and if you are using the barbs (a great idea btw) solder them on BEFORE you ever put gas in the tank...

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Yep.. sure is...

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

Good idea, I usually "pressurize" mine by blowing in the vent, while plugging the clunk line, then pinch all the lines while it's pressurized, and tilt it towards the stopper to check for leaks. That kinda accelerates the process, and while not necessary on gas engines, on YS's I like to see what the tank is going to do under pressure, some of the seams have been known to let go immediately if there is a manufacturing defect.

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

One box, that shows Chris was thinking ahead.

My AW edge came in 3 boxes. The Wing tube was even in it's own box. Shipping was about 80 dollars! thats crazy.

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, I remember ordering a giant Lanier ARF, well and a 1/3 scale Lanier Extra kit years ago, from tower hobbies, and only paid the standard shipping both times, like $7.95 or whatever it was, I wonder if they still do that?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Ummm... well big is big... regardless of whether it's in multiple boxes...

The cost to ship the Yak was $70 to me in the Eastern US... might be a few dolloars more for fellas out West...

Still overall worth it... ioh yeah... definitely worth it..

Flight Hawk

No comment[]

romanrc

Today......is the day

Where is the boat.....

Arrives?????

[:-][8D][:-][8D]

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Making a little progress...

I decided to add another cowl mounting block to the top dead center.

1. I made a block from 3 layers of 1/8" liteply glued together... 3/4"x3/4"

2. I then sanded a curve on the top and gently tapered it back to front.

3. Then I marked and removed the covering from the front of former F1

4. And epoxied the blockm in place with a little piece of tristock underneath.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

On the cowl I opted to switch to 8/32 nylon screws and blindnuts.

One by one I installed the cowl bolts using a clear stip of plastic taped to the fuse to mark the position of the tabs with blindnuts then transfered the mark to the cowl.

I started with the new top center tab to establish my distance, the the two sides ones, then the bottom two.

Before you drill the cowl, tape both sides with heavy masking tape... this will help prevent the fiberglass from blowing out when the drill catches....

I used the rubber grommet technique but had to get a little larger grommets to accomodate the 8/32 screws.

cadconversions

My Feedback: (21)

Nice clamps! I've been having really good luck using 6-32 bolts and T-nuts on my cowl installs. I use 4-40 on the canopies when I need to. A little over kill but the canopies don't move and havne't had one crack yet. Thanks guys.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Now to finalize the canopy...

1. I made a couple doubler discs from 1/8" liteply

2. I taped over the holes in the firewall then cut throu the holes... this is to act as a barrier for when you glue the pins in place. Would hate to epoxy the canopy in too.. . I took qa soldering iron and melted the plastic from in front of the canopy holes. I stuck the pins in flush with former F1 andplaced the canopy in position.

3. Then I shoved the pins through into the canopy to test for fit... it was perfect, so I pulled the canopy off and applied some epoxy to the inside of the holes. Replaced and shoved the pins back through into the canopy. I then coated the discs with epoxy (and inside the hole) and reached up inside from the engine box and slid them on and flush with the canopy. It's kinda hard to reach, but it can be done. Once set it's a strong and perfect fit.

4. The rear of the canopy has the 1/8" aircraft ply plate for the hatch latch I shared earlier... together this canopy is held fast with NO... ZERO play... I'm lovin' it!

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

Nice work ! I was wondering if four 4-40 bolts will stay tight, but no one has complained yet.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I'm sure they would be fine... it's like I said a while back... some of us will do our little mods to the plane to satisfy our inner desire to be a part of the construction... to personalize it, and to give us that extra bit of confidence at the field.

Some things, like the hatch latch... are done out of pure personal preference...

Now... if I can JUST make up my mind on the muffler...

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

No one else has tried a pitts style and you have one , right??


Do us all a favor and try it out and post the data. You have contributed so much to this , that it would be the perfect capper. Unless of course cowl cutting is an issue, a bad choice on muffler and you have a cowl that is cut for a bad choice.

I am sure to be using the stocker that i have..I will re-fab it if i need to cut more cowl than Wayne, but it is not likely.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

deleted

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I'm leaning toward the Chip Hyde Quiet Pipe... it'll end up 8 oz more than the stock muffler but be VERY quiet...

Still the tuned pipe is beckoning me.... "insane power" I recall...

The stock muffler sounds great... love it on my DV and is the lightest option... but would it be quiet enough for IMAC events.

If I had the time I'd do a bench test of them all... but I don't... well... at least not just yet...

I'll push that decison aside til the very end and maybe by then I can figure it all out...

I did end up ordering an NX 23x8... was ordering stuff from Airwild anyway and thought I'd try one out... I've heard good thing about it...

Will give it a purdy paintjob.