peter1b1

I have procured an old Byron Pitts and in the process of re building it. My problem is that after reading some comments on the GP Pitts, and not knowing the original C of G for the A/C, can anyone help me with were should the Pitts balance?? I have mounted the servos for the elevator halves and rudder at the rear of the fuselage and at this time it balances about 4 inches (100mm) behind the LE of the top wing, is this OK?? Any help appreciated.

peter1b1

Finally got the Pitts certified the weekend before last, flys great, definitely need to be gentle on the rudder for both takeoff and landing[:@]. I have certified the aircraft for everything except snap maneuver's, was not sure if the airframe can handle it! Looks great in the air.[8D]

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Correct balance is listed in the manual at 1" ahead if lower wing L/E at the fuse.

JET FX

Peter how is your Byron Pitts progressing, Iam looking at getting one myself soon and just wondered what mods etc you may of done to yours...

Cheers-

peter1b1

Marty,

apart from the OS Super Gemini 240 motor and the fitting of the elevator servos at the rear, no major mods have been done. I am using a 20x10 Metzik prop and it flys with authority, but will not prop hang or 3D.

I think it is a good scale Pitts.

Wings-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

I sold mine a few years ago and have missed flying it. It always seemed to attract a crowd; unlike all my current lg scale aerobats. It was tumbled & snaped hard enough to split a prop in flight! Here is a picture of my ex...

Neil K

My Feedback: (8)

Hi, Can anyone here help me? I am looking for the assembly manual for the old Byron Originals or Iron Bay Pitts. If anyone has one or will copy it I would be happy to compensate you for the time and trouble. thank you, Neil K

Avaiojet

Peter,

Could you Post detailed photos of your Pitts?

Charles

Neil K

My Feedback: (8)

skeeter_ca

nevermind i'll start new thread

bobbins

Hiya guys,
I am putting a DL 100 in my pitts do you think it will be too much power for the airframe? Is the C/G 1" forward of the lower wing & does anyone know the recomended surface throws,any help would be greatly appreciated.


Regards Bob

FormerCA.

My Feedback: (8)

Go easy on the loops!

We lost a B.O. Pitts and Christen Eagle to wing failures. All were built as per instructions and werent flown "3D" (this was back in the day).

Wings broke in the center joiner area-wasn't a good design as it turns out as we heard of several similar failures. In retrospect, there needs to be a continuous spar which could be cut out of a/c grade plywood and then also the possibility of glassing the wing in combination. Altho the latter would put a couple of extra pounds-might just save your plane.

Just my opinions and experience.

fishmissile2000

Hi I was wonderingif this pitts is the old ones with the foam wings and fuse about a 50 cc model I acuired one an ole boy thought he would cover in fiberglass looks like crap luckily he only did the rear 1/4 of fuse I was wondering what is one of these worth?

min$2crash

bobbins:

I don't see an answer posted, so here are the recommended throws per Byron manual:

Elevator 1 1/2" up and down
Aileron 3/4" up and down
Rudder 2" left and right


Cg is 1/2" to 1" ahead of LE of lower wing.

Hope its helpful if not timely!

Gogster

Hi!
I just found this thread and wanted to report that I also have a Byron Pitts Special that I just took out of storage and converted it to electric using the Great Planes 50cc brushless motor, motor mount kit, Castle Creations 160HV ESC, CC BEC PRO to power the radio and using 2x FlightMax 6s 6000mah LiPos for power. It swings a XOAR 22x10 laminated prop at 9700 rpms so It''s a ROCKET! Approximate weight is 18 pounds, so she accelerates on the vertical! I've been flying it nose heavy all this time as I had to mount the LiPos in the firewall and split the cowling to make for easy battery changes. I didn't have the CG info or plans available, but found the CG info here. It's nose heavy, but still flies awesome. I just added some tail weight and will see how she responds.

GarySS

My Feedback: (13)

Gee, I would think the LIPO pack could be moved rearward for a CG shift rather than add dead weight.

Is the covering the Econocote method or fiberglass and paint, etc? First Post here???

dougly

Peter1b1, Is your pitts the large aircraft like 5 foot wingspan? Do you have your rudder and stabilizer wired together? By that I mean two wires going from the edge of the rudder to the elevator.From the elevator to the bottom of the fuse, From the bottom of the fuse to the elevator,and then back up to the rudder. If not because this plane is built for aerobatics you should take it easy on the performance end of it. I also have a ultimate pitts. I am running a magnum 1.80. It is a very good performing aircraft. Doug

Gogster

Garyss
I wish I can move the batteries farther back, but in order to keep them accessible, they have to be mounted through the firewall as the ESC is there and the wire leads cannot be extended, nor is there any other way to get to the batteries without putting giant holes in the side of the fuse to get to the batteries. They are fastened at the front using 2 velcro straps to keep each one from shifting., so that's the farthest in I can push them without losing the ability to secure the batteries. I was thinking of making tubes to push the batteries in father, but there isn't any easy way to secure them from sliding fore/aft. I thought about this layout for about a month and this is all I can come-up with. I did add 4oz of weight in the tail and she can snap better, but she's even more a hand-full for me to land. As far as the covering, the fuse was fiberglassed by the previous owner and I covered all of it with White Monokote. The trim is all hand-cut and applied by me using the Monokote trim sheeting (lots and lots of it!). I really liked the Christen Eagle design so I kinda copied it but made it the "Christen Hawk" ; ). The cowling is spray can painted and am using the RC Booya quick fasteners for helis to do the fastening on the split cowl. I'm also using max throws with about 20% expo on all surfaces by making the elevator and rudder pull-pull cable to the servos and maxed out the ailerons to get about 1" up and down and rudder and elevator about 3" both ways. I'm not a pro flyer by any means, but enjoy the way she performs up there. I still need to see how she performs near stall speed (up high), but she can do torque rolls hanging on the prop and accelerate out of it with great authority! She definitely makes a lot of prop/motor noise on max throttle at 9750 rpms on the XOAR 22x10 prop! Currently, I'm getting about 6 to 8 minutes of flight time, depending on how I fly her on the 2x 6s 5800mah LiPos. If I just cruze around, I can probably get up to 10 minutes, but the urge to throw her around is too much for me!
Yes!, this is my first post here.

Regards,
Gogian

fishkillbill

My Feedback: (4)

I'm just finished putting a Super tigre 3000 in an old Byron Pitts. My question is, how do you do the CG measuring an inch in front of the lower wing? Isn't that like, thin air?

fishkillbill

My Feedback: (4)

Here are some pictures:

gogster2k

I use the top wing and measure that distance there and and hold up the plane on the bottom of the top wing to check the balance. It's not a perfect way, but it works for me.

fishkillbill

My Feedback: (4)

I just tried that. I think I'll go with that way, thanks. Bill

peter1b1

Guy's,

I have not posted anything on the page for a while, ground looped my Pitts and broke the rear stab, have been trying to get a new one from Iron Bay with no luck. So at the moment I am concidering cutting a new foam one or making one out of balsa, but it's not high on my priority list, (to many other things going on).
Will post again when it is back in the air.

Gogster

Ouch, Sorry to hear that! Hope you get it fixed soon. i wouldn't wait for any response from IronBay. I used simular density foam to repair my pitts a long time ago from a mid-air and just cut out the bad stuff and slipped-in the new using 30 minute epoxy, then after it set, I curved the piece to final shape using different grit sandpaper.

min$2crash

Fishkillbill:
I was hung up on the CG thing, too because its also a pretty heavy baby... ~15lb with a ST3250.
I put a piece of plumber's strap (that 1" wide galvanized steel that is perforated with holes every 1/2" or so) on the bolts that hold the belly pan under the nose of the plane.
The bolts are long enough that I can put the strap and an acorn nut on for balancing. Then I measure which hole is at the desired CG and hang the plane upside down from it.
Worked great... I like this better than the top wing method, because it also does the Left-to-Right CG at the same time.