I & C Tech

That's correct Bill. It is the 56. I haven't balanced the prop yet. Once I do that, I'll try and adjust it and get the numbers to confirm everything is right. What size tank will give 15 plus minutes on the typical 50cc?

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

Yep, it certainly is a tough decision you guys have up high. Heck, I was even struggling over whether to run the MVVS 58 or 45(or other 50) and I live near sea level. My suggestion is, and you may have already done this, read everything Dick Hanson has to say about setting up for high altitude flying. He is and expert and is readily willing to share his experience.

One more thing to add to the equation is if you used a KS can and stainless header you'll be right about at that 10 oz weight.

>>The other aspect is the weight represented by any additional modification required to install the pipe in the fuselage, what I mean with that is that the pipe requires a tunnel if goes inside the fuselage ... no sure here how much weight I would add. I don't have too much experience in this regarding, any sugeestions? Installing the pipe underneath the fuse is other option however since I don't have the airplane with me yet all I can do is speculation as far as how that pipe might be installed on the BME YAK.

If you haven't seen my under-fuse can install, take a look in the KMP Yak thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_31...14/key_/tm.htm - Post 328 and 329.

My mounting method was only an ounce, and could be used in-fuse, but there are other lightweight in-fuse mounting methods too that would be just as light. From the look of the pictures I've see, I would think pretty much the exact same under-fuse method would work on the BME Yak.

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

In my experience a 16oz will do it on a 50 single, but if I were you I'd put in a 20 or 24 oz to be on the safe side with that twin. Of course these numbers will vary quite a bit based on your flying style. Some people blast around the sky, or hover all day long, and either of those things are going to burn more gas.

I & C Tech

I just putt around at med to low throttles. I have a few 16 ouncers on hand so maybe I'll try one before buying something else.

Big Barry

I have the ProSport model, I dont know if it is any lighter but I hooked the motor up to the scale with out the plug or ignition and I'm sure I got 3.5lbs. I will do it again when the motor is off.

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

Mine was the ProSport too. Their advertised weights are the same, and mine definitely wasn't lighter than the standard version.

Albatross

My Feedback: (7)

My Evolution 58 (or MVVS 58) is 4 lbs and that is without ignition.
BTW So far one of the few specifications that have seen matching the real world.

Albatross

My Feedback: (7)

quote]
Original bpryor

My mounting method was only an ounce, and could be used in-fuse, but there are other lightweight in-fuse mounting methods too that would be just as light. From the look of the pictures I've see, I would think pretty much the exact same under-fuse method would work on the BME Yak.

[/quote]

I think that this method (under fuse) provides the lightest installation for either canister or tuned pipe.

Dick mentioned about the additional heat that a tuned pipe may generate in the engine. I would assume that that heat is somehow absorbed by the pipe which in turn would warm up. If I go in fuselage installation I guess I need to take care of providing a mean to remove that heat by adding one tunnel and off course the hole underneath the fuselage to provide and exit to the pipe end.
am I going to complicated here?

Any pictures or links pointing to in-fuselage tuned pipe installation?

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

No, you are correct. If using in-fuse you need to allow for flow of air around the pipe or canister and exiting out the back. You also need to make sure there isn't a high-pressure area at the exit that prevents the air from flowing freely. The best way to do this is to make sure there is low pressure. I typically put a small "louver" at the exit point to make sure there is low pressure.

Here's a link to an old tutorial-type thread(at least the first part) of an in-fuse canister install I did quite a while ago in a H9 33% Cap 232: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tm.asp?m=251581

BTW, although it is probably obvious, doing an under-fuse install is much easier, and you don't have the cooling issues, though of course it does not look as clean either.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Now that several of you actually have some time with this plane could you comment on how this new "higher quality" BME plane compares to Extreme Flight and and Somenzini if you have experience with these other high quality planes.

Comparison of things like completeness of ARF, ease of assembly, overall quality, etc. I am in the market for a 50cc plane and am looking at this plane or a QQ I got a line on. But I am not a fan of ARF planes were you need to install the firewall or do a lot of other assembly. My 102" QQ was very easy to assemble and flies great. Is the BME in the same class? Thanks.

DrFun

My Feedback: (4)

Okay guys,

I got the email that my Yak is shipping tomorrow, and to speed up the build time, I am going to otrder everything for the plane.

What is needed, specifically, does it come with
fuel tank?
Wheels?
What size spinner?
and what length servo extensions?
the ad says it comes with cf pushrods, what else is needed pull-pull hardware or horns?

I would say for extensions
2x36" for the elevator,
2x18" or 2x24" for ailerons,
1x24" for throtlle

are they correct?

Thanks,

Big Barry

Splais

If you have a 102" QQ why bother?

Cobra

It all depends on where you put everything and how you do it.

So far this is what I have.

1x Y-Cable for elevator
1x18" for the elevator Y-Cable,
2x12" for ailerons,
1x12" for throtlle
1x12" for Choke

DrFun

My Feedback: (4)

Barry, Thanks,

Okay I checked the web site, and it was already in there, fuel tank and control hardware we supply.

Big Barry

I finally got the Pull-Pull done. I went with Dubro HD Pull-Pull, a 4" SWB offset arm and a Hitec HSC-5955 Titanium Gear High Speed servo and 4/40 ball links all around. I tried to cross the cables on the initial set-up but I was getting too much slop. I switched to a straight set up and still had to extend the slot in the fuse about 1.5". I think the rudder horn is 3" and I am using every bit of it. With this set up I am getting full throws on both sides with minimal slop in the cables. Remember you have to have some slack in the oposite line as the rudder is deflected, you do not want any tightening as the servo is transitioned, none. Make sure you engineer your pull pull prior to drilling your hole in the rudder for your controll horn. I got lucky with mine and got the controll horn set up with the hinge line by just centering on the hard point in the rudder and cutting the control linkages that screw on the horn(bolt) as short as possible.

I will post some pics tonight.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

I thought the servo arm was supposed to be the same length as your rudder horn to get the least amount of cable slack. Also did you have to extend the slot forward or back? How do you like that Hiteck servo. I was thinking of using that instead of the JR8611. I was going to get the SWB 3 inch long servo arm.

Big Barry

Yes, in a perfect world the rudder arm and the servo arm should be the same length, but each situation will dictate. You will allways have some slack but you are right it will be minimized with good geometry. I had to cut the slots aft. I like the servo it is fast and strong, centers very well too. I dont have any complaints as of yet. I would get the 3" arm if I did it again, live and learn.

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

It has always been conventional wisdom to have the same length arm front and back, and I can't imagine what situation would not allow you to do that....but with that said, SWB's 3" offset arm they made for the EF YAK is actually 2 5/8". Figure that one out, I can't, and although I went ahead and put that arm on my KMP Yak with crossover wires and 3" on the rudder, it has slack, so I'm not sure what to think. It's not enough for me to go to the trouble to fool with it, but it isn't the correct geometry. FYI, with the correct geometry you will not have any slack through the full range of motion.

Big Barry

I've always been unconventional, thats why it takes me so long to figure this **** out! Ha Ha!

DrFun

My Feedback: (4)

Bigbarry,

I wish you had posted the rudder info yesterday, I ordered 4" offset swb too.

well I will have to figure out something.

Anybody received from second shipment yet?

3de

My Feedback: (6)

I thought the offset arms were for 1: crossover pull pull and 2: say the offset is 1/2 inch on the servo arm, and then the rudder horn is 1/2 inch back from the hinge line.
Please correct me if Im wrong, as Im a newbie to pull pull setups, but gathered this reading.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

If you have not used the arm yet, he will take it back and give you what you want. Just as long as it's not scratched up, has to look new.

Big Barry

Cobra
Dont sweat it, it will work great. My Pull-Pull is one of the best I have done. Slack on the non-pulling slide is expected and desired. If you keep it, it will work if you get a 3" that will probly work better but either way you will be fine. You are supposed to match the servo arm and the rudder horn sizes but read on and you will understand the problem with this plane.

Steve

I think you are right, but I dont live in the perfect world that I was talking about earlier. I kinda fumbled this one and got lucky and recovered the ball. So for me a 3" rudder horn and a 4" servo arm are getting the job done with minimal slack. Not perfect but close enough for my money.


Ok-here we go, part of the problem with the YAK is that the cables exit the fuse above the elevator. The longer the rudder horn the less elevator travel. You guys have to check it out for yourselves. I want the most elevator deflection I can possibly get-so I have gone with a shorter rudder horn and I am trying to get at least 45 degrees of throw on the elevator. If I cant get it and I decide that I absolutely have to have it (or more) then I will cut each elevator half (increase the angle towards the fuse from the trailing edge of the elevator) so that they will not hit the pull pull linkage. Thus I do not live in a perfect world because if I did this plane would have been designed for full deflection on all control surfaces.

I got some pics check em out, this is my layout so far. This plane is taking forever to finish. At this rate I wont fly it till November.

Can someone who has flown this plane comment on the elevator and rudder, is there enough elevator deflection for 3-D with out any modifications? Am I just spinning my wheels, with this line of thinking?

3de

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Barry,
If you move in on that 4 inch arm a hole or two it might remove any slop, and will then have no offset.. Just a thought.
We need to fly sometime man. Ive flown everyday this week out at RRCC.

Big Barry

Steve

What time are you flying?

3de

My Feedback: (6)

Barry,
Ive been flying out there at about 11:00 AM after work. Theres usually a few people out there. You flying this weekend?