Banche

I didnt notice them at all when I built the plane.

I would use the hinges, every one of them.

I think every one has and no one has had a single problem.

greyhound man

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I am probably nearing 80 flights with no hinge problems.

3dking

My Feedback: (26)

I'm refering to the brass pins that hold the arm in place.

greyhound man

My Feedback: (5)

Do you mean the control horns / clevis?... If so I did not like that stuff either and replaced most of it.

3dking

My Feedback: (26)

that little pin in the picture I just uploaded.

PropStriker

My Feedback: (12)

I`m up there with greyhound...about 80 flights (I know you Northern guys will have some catching up to do!!) I used the stock hinges, control horns and brass pins. I check them often...no signs of wear or trying to back out at all.

3dking, thats an excellent idea drilling the pipe tunnel, will have to do that soon myself!

Relocating the rudder pull pull has been an issue with me since I heard the new kits were released with that configuration. I realize the elevators are cut differently, but with full rudder deflection, how can it Not hit the elevators??? I will mention this to Sammy next time I talk with him.

Banche

You would think that they would check to make sure they wouldnt hit.

Oh, BTW, I didnt like the hardware, I am no expert but I just didnt like it and replaced it all with carbon fiber pushrods and H9 titanium pushrods on the ailerons and the Hangar 9 Heavy duty ball links.

All the other ball links, and I have tried about 10 different brands, all the other ball links have slop.

What I mean is that the screw has space between it and the ball so they move back and forth.

I know that goes awa ya bit when you tighten them down but they still probably move.

I dont like that and so I only use H9 Ball links.

All the linkage hardware on the Yak is like 6-32 or some odd thread and screw size that isnt 4-40.

That is a little befier so I put those 6-32 bolts through some of the old rocket city ball links and they fit real snug and then I use locktite and 2 hex bolts.

That is alot better on the plastic controle horns but for servo arms and such--> 4-40

I think someone used 4-40 pushrods and the ball links that came with the kit and had big problems. Maybe it was one of you guys?

Good luck. I just found out that I have to go to the doctor again on wensday, it really sucks cuz I dislocated my shoulder playing basketball.

Who cares about the shoulder, I dont get to fly!!!!

PropStriker

My Feedback: (12)

Last time I dislocated my shoulder, I needed an arm sling....hope it isn`t too bad.

I hope you didn`t use locktite on plastic!

Banche

I am supposed to be in a sling for a week. It isnt too bad, my arm was numb though for a while aftorwards and then the numbness slowly went away. It was real weird.


I didnt use locktite for the screw to screw into the plastic but I locktited (spell) the bolts on the other side holding the screw in and I am sure some got in the threads in the plastic.

What happens when that happens???? It was red locktite. Oh and blue locktite on some other screws too so red and blue both.

PropStriker

My Feedback: (12)

Red is more permanent than blue, either will weaken plastic

llamury

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Guys,
Just a little info on the hardware included -- we've not had one report of a failure on that little brass pin or on any of our hardware yet (fingers crossed). I know it's something new, some of it looks a little different - but zero failures. You can throw it away and spend extra money if you like, but with hundreds of planes out there making thousands of flights . . . -- not one report since I've been with Aviation Models!

PropStriker

My Feedback: (12)

Hi Lee, thanks for the post...Sammy sez you`re real busy since he`s been in China....



-larry-

propwashed

My Feedback: (13)

Lee, Most of the hardware is great and will function fine. I think most people just choose to upgrade to other brands. Choice is good. As I mentioned before, other hardware upgrades would drive the cost of the kit up and I think evryone likes the price where it is. However the pull-pull cable is not suitable for this aircraft. No big deal though. One reason is this plane requires a criss cross set-up and the supplied cable is not coated. This can cause problems . The other reason is that it has few strands and kinks real easy.

Other than that I feel everything would probably work fine for the life of the aircraft.

Great job on the manuals!!!
Tripp

propwashed

My Feedback: (13)

opus what did I miss? I've going back more pages

Tripp

jimmyjoe

My Feedback: (21)

tunnel looks nice, and it is nice to see the fuel in the tank. However, I thought that the fuel tank was being installed centered under the wing tube for cg. it looks like your tank is fore of the tube?

jimmyjoe

My Feedback: (21)

hey tripp,

it is all about Banche flying at a soccer field and buzzing people. Don't want to get off thread but there are things we can do in this hobby to keep locals and feds off are asses and what Banche was doing really wasn't one of them.

JustPlaneCrazy3D

I was having a problem too, but here is what I discovered.

The exit hole is shown in the pics below.

At first I used the bigger holes between the stab mounting holes and it still was not the way I liked it, then when I was tighteing up the covering I discovered the little exit hole slit below the bigger one.
I moved my pull-pull wires to this new position and it seems ok.

PropStriker

My Feedback: (12)

EXCELLENT!!!! Good find!!!
So, with full rudder deflection, Moving the elevator it`s full range doesn`t interfer with the control horn at all???
I see you are using clevises on the control horns also.

3dking

My Feedback: (26)

I see that set-up, my only question is the control arms.....How many degrees are you getting with deflection?????

3dking

My Feedback: (26)

I've been reading this awesome thread since day one and most of the guys have said that these arf's come in tail heavy, so that's why I installed the tank where it is. I figured if it's a little nose heavy I could always move my twin battery packs back a little. I also kept the regulators as close to the wing tube just in case.

PropStriker

My Feedback: (12)

You gotta remember, the tank doesn`t stay full through the entire flight...The reason we put the tank at the CG, is so there are no trim changes as the gas burns off.

JustPlaneCrazy3D

Thanks !

No problems with full deflection.

Yes I went back to the clevises per DkJens recommendation.

JustPlaneCrazy3D

I'll check the degrees tonight.

I know the control horns on the rudder can bump into the sides of the fuse with too much deflection on the rudder.

Stallion_51

My Feedback: (1)

Well, it's time for my report:

Unofrtunately, I was so excited that I forgot the camera, however I'll take some this weekend.


---------------------------

The Yak's official weight is 18.3 lbs and it's NOSE heavy, just a tad.

The first flight was last Friday. The BME cranked up without a hitch. I did a range check with the engine running. No issues.

We taxied her out to the runway and gave it some throttle. As soon as the Yak took off we noticed a lack of thrust from the BME. Remember, we have the 3-blade CF 21x11.5 Mejzlik. The prop wasn't doing the job. So, we continued flying but the vertical just wasn't there. It was flying good enough to get a decent trim flight out of her though.

To our amazement, we had to bump a little up into the elevator. We were thinking the beast was going to be tail heavy if anything, but were delightfully surprised that we could take some of the weight out of the nose (about 6 oz.'s or so). I took the controls from dad and did some flyby's. Unfortunately, the pilot came unglued and started flopping around in the canopy. I immediately landed.

As far as landing goes, this thing rivals my 33% H9 Cap 232. Slows to a crawl with little to no tip stall tendencies.

After the pilot jetison, we were pretty much done for the day. The Yak's canopy is shot after being nicked by the pilot. What actually happened was the epoxy came off from the base of the pilot (plywood). The base was still there screwed and epoxied in place, however the hollow pilot decided to come unglued.

Throughout the weekend, we've got 9 flights on her. Every flight gets better and better. We changed props to a 2-blade 21x8 BME prop. Much better performance (as Keith described to us over the phone). We'll be heading down to Troy Built to get another CF prop and spinner made.

We took all of the lead weight out of the nose and it's still coming out a tad nose heavy. We're thinking about moving one of the batteries back toward the CG, but I don't want to mess with it too, too much.

We love this plane. Pictures to come later.

fasterthanlife

My Feedback: (2)

Man this plane really sounds sweet. I'mn looking forward to the Aviation Models 30% 260!!!

I wanna get one man those thing look sweet!!!. I hope it flies as good as the Yak.