terry.mortimore

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Hi Gang:

In a moment of weakness last week I place an order for a Bud Nosen 310 with A&A industries. I won't be building this plane right away but I would like to gather tips and suggestions for when I do get going on it.

So far in the archives I've learned that you should install shear webbing in the spares and perhaps a carbon fibre spar cap would be helpful as well. The engine of choice seems to be 120 size four strokes. I do plan to install glow drivers and the Jomar engine synchronizer.

I'm prepared for a lot of building and to replace some of the wood in the kit if necessary, and I do believe that the estimated weight is a little optimistic.

Any suggestions on what make and model retracts?

Who's glass components?

Any other suggestions or things you would do differently would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, terry.

SteveD-RCU

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Hi Terry.Robart has the gear for the Nosen 310.Ask for part# 152 for mains ,#158 for nose gear,157VR control kit
Should be a real nice machine with 120 four strokes.Get the Robarts cause you'll need rugged landing gear for our rough field....and the Robarts can handle it...Steve

AmishWarlord

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Terry, did you start building that 310 yet?

terry.mortimore

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Hello AmishWarlord:

No, haven't started it yet. Probably be next winters project. Still finishing off a few planes this spring (1/3 scale Bipe and CL-415 Water bomber).

I recieved the kit from A&A and everything looks to be well done, although I haven't dug too far into the box.

cheers, terry.

AmishWarlord

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So the AA kit is more like just a set of plans and wood rather than a "KIT"

Dose it have die cut parts?

terry.mortimore

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Yes, it does have diecut parts. Looks like the wing, stab and vertical fin ribs are diecut. The fuselage bulkheads look to be machine cut. It is one big box of wood, a lot of blank balsa that I assume would be for sheeting. The diecutting is fairly well done, not much crushing at all. I would not consider it a beginners kit, but it is a lot more than just a box of wood.

Bipeguy

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HI......I know a fellow flier in a neighboring club who has two of them. He runs G-23's in one and his son runs OS 120's in the other. They agree the G-23's are much better. I have seen them both fly and like the sound and performance of the G23's also. They have a cousin who is building one and is putting the new G25's in it. I am about to start one and am putting the G23's in mine. They work great here in SE Minnesota.

Are you confused yet ?? ha......

Bipeguy...

RickVB

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So how do the G23's fit in the cowl? Are people side-mounting them, inverted, or what?

Bipeguy

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Rick, he mounted them inverted. From what I remember, they fit very nicely.

AmishWarlord

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Yeah I think I'll go with the new G26's in mine. Well when I get one that is. :P


Oh dose the AA one come with a windshield?

terry.mortimore

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No the windshield is not included, the engine cowls and wingtip fibreglass parts are available from Fibreglass Specialties. There is also a fellow on the list here that makes the those and a few more parts for the plane but I've misplaced his name at the moment.

cheers, terry.

AmishWarlord

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Yeah I have links to the fiberglass parts. The sides and back windows are easy enough to make out of flat stock but that front window looks like it would be a pain to make.

AmishWarlord

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A full size one would be nice. Now if I could just think of a way to get this one down....

AmishWarlord

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Mac flying his 310

AmishWarlord

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Here is a neat link to a 310 builder. I really like the mods he made to this plane.




Link to 310

Oh one warning about the link. The molder shamelessly poses with a model wearing just his boxer shorts! Ewwww.

Piper Cub

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Hey there 310 Builders!

I too have the A&A kit and it is scheduled to begin construction either late summer or Fall if all goes well. I too was thinking of going with the new G26's. Jim Eble of Creek Hobbies in NJ is building one as well and he said he was going to go with a pair of small 3W's with the Left one counter-rotating, How Cool! That seems a little out of my budget though.

I have a large collection of model magazines and found a construction article for the Nosen 310 as a 310Q...

Scale RC Modeler October 1981 has an article with a lot of information. The kit you get from A&A doesn't come out as a 310 Q but an earlier version. This article explains the mods to make it a 310Q. The article shares 5 pages with ads and is an interesting read.

I'll scan it, if anyone is interested e-mail me, I don't get to RCU everyday.

Michael Beckman

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Hey;
Spoke to Wendall Hostetler at Toledo and guess what hes working on.............115" 310Q Guess I'll have to call kit cutters!
Due out this fall!

Robby

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Tooo bad W/H wasn't doing like a 150".. That would be great..
The 120" A&A <Nosen> is about at limits when you add retracts,
gas motors, flaps,etc.. Weight goes up fast ...
On mine I am going to make some changes.. Like try out foam
core wings instaed of build up <even tho mine are done>.. And
was thinking of doing same with tail..
If anyone is interested.. When I placed my order a year ago I put
in for two and am only going to do the one.. So I have one avail..

BrittB

Wendall Hostetler states on his web page that he can make the drawings any scale you want.

Question; Why is that one fellow making his props counter rotating? I understand the reason as far as physics go but, real 310's don't have this. Why bother on a model?

As for the windsheild, I was looking at our Reiley 310C and it has very little bubble effect meaning that in 1/4 scale, you could make it from a flat sheet and it would look okay. A later 310 like an R model might be different but I don't have a real one to look at.

Piper Cub

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I have no Idea why he chose to go with counter rotating. I just assumed it was for the physics reasons and a maybe to be scale. I didn't realize the real one didn't use that.

AmishWarlord

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I hear some people will pay $500 not to have to ad a little right rudder on take off. :P

helimonster

I have just about finished building a Bud Nosen Cessna 310, getting ready to run the engines, and am wondering how well it will slow down for a landing without flaps or should I cut up the wings and install flaps before I even try to fly it. Also, what about brakes on the main gear wheels. Are they needed? Is there anyone out there flying these things that can tell me what flying problems I may encounter when I get it in the sky and then try to land it, besides the obvious problem with what to do when 1 engine quits? My 310 has very little rudder travel to help out on a 1 engine flame out.

BrittB

I know our real 310 lands at a high rate of speed. It would be safe to assume that the model might too. I would add the flaps as it would be easier to do now, instead of waiting until after the wing/ airplane is done. If you find out that you don't need the flaps later after it's flying, just don't use them. The nose wheel brake is an optional thing. I don't think you need it but, it's up to you.

helimonster

Won't be that easy. The wing is finished. But if it would possibly save the airplane from damage, I would put in flaps. Is there anybody out there currently flying a Bud Nosen Cessna 310 that could advise me on this?

RandyL

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I flew my 310 before winter set in and found that it lands reasonably fast. Over the years I've never talked with anyone that has told me it is a "floater" and I a tend to agree. Mine does not have flaps and as long as you have a reasonable place to fly I see no need of adding the weight, complexity, and more components to control while flying.
I build flaps into some of my models but it is usually for scale reasons more than actual flying function. You appear not to be concerned with that so in your case I would not have them on the airplane.
My own airfield is 300ft grass and it is really too small for the 310. The OS 1.08's pulled it out and flew it real well but the landing has to be right on in my confined area. I dont' plan to fly mine often from my smallish field as it leaves no room for error. ( I have no runoff at either end ).
You did say something in an earlier post that concerns me much more.... You say you have little rudder travel. You better change that, no matter what you have to do, simple or not. That could destroy your airplane much quicker than any flap decision, as well as a possible saftey factor on an airplane this size.
Mine flew fast and like it was on rails....they are pretty in the air! Best of luck.