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Old 11-25-2002, 02:59 AM
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Rc-Warehouse-USA
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Default Lightning holes

How much strength is lost in Birch ply 1/8" by adding lightening holes to reduce flying weight? Is there a general rule of thumb?
Old 11-25-2002, 09:52 AM
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Motowncali
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Default Lightning holes

No real rule of thumb that I have heard of, just comes from experience and wher you are planning to use the ply? Can you use light ply instead of birch? Can you please give a little more info about what you are planning to use the the birch ply for.

Mo
Old 11-25-2002, 11:59 PM
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Default Lightning holes

I am building a kit 33% Extra 230. Foam wing, it uses Birch 1/8" by 3" x 48" Tappering spar with triplers and doublers at the root. The plane 96" total wingspan. It also uses 1/8" birch sides and formers that I will replace with Lite Ply. The kit is 10 years old. I have feedback from 5 fellows that have built the plane and said that it flys good heavy but if it could be lightened up that it would fly great.
Old 11-30-2002, 10:05 AM
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Default Lightning holes

I think a little more info would be good, what engine do you plan to use. These planes do fly really well even at the higher weight than most newer kits. If I recall, if you use a G-62 then the batteris have to go in the tail to help balance the model. Do you have a copy of the new AMA magazine. Pictures are worth a millon words. The write up and pics they did of the 300LX are great. I would use the door skin sides that came in the kit, but I would cut lightening holes to the max. If you have a bulk head with 1/4 " triangle on both sides, I would cut the hole to 1/4" away from the triangle, 1/2" from the bulhead. I would then look at mounting all the tail servos in the tail. I would not touch the wing doublers because of the way the wings mount to the fuse. I would be stingy with the glue. Most modelers add so much unneeded weight by useing too much glue. Happy building.

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