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Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Old 12-16-2007, 08:13 PM
  #51  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

The 1x1 alum angle is just right for the gear. I don't use any angle on the fire wall. I do add a 1/4' square spruce stick all the way around the front of the fire wall. That is why the fuse sides stick out 1/4" past the fire wall. The hard wood stick glued to the perimeter is more than enough to secure the firewall.

Old 12-18-2007, 09:44 PM
  #52  
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

I've got the top glued on, holding the tail with clamps, tape, bungee cord, weights... I might pick up a few more clamps before I glue the bottom on. That's a lot of area to hold all at once. Here are some pics.
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:38 PM
  #53  
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

I love this! Keep it rolling guys. I want to build one myself just in time for spring! That's my New Year's 2008 Go For It!!!
Old 12-19-2007, 07:42 AM
  #54  
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Well I decided to go ahead and glue the bottom on last night. You can just use weights on the front fuse section and I used a lot of clamps, tape and weight to hold the tail section. I wish I had taken a picture but I forgot. The only thing I've done wrong so far is the joining of the bottom of the fuse, it aligned better with the front section print side in and the rear section print side out. This was a little confusing when I started putting the formers on for the stringers, but all it took was a look to the other side to confirm correct position.

I glued the stringers together this morning so after work I can start running the bottom stringers.

It's is building perfectly square all the way down the fuse, I think it helps that Carrol Jones gave me the door. It's nice and flat.

More tonight I hope.

Scott
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Old 12-19-2007, 04:55 PM
  #55  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Scott

Looks good. The fuse does build very easy. It is almost imposible to build it crooked. The way every thing locks together takes any chance of twist out of the equation.
I glue the stringers together as I go. That way you don't waste any. I start by glueing 2 together and glue it in place. Cut off the excess length and add that peice to the next stringer. Try to keep the splices as closs to a former as possible. It is not that important but it does make the splice stronger.

A door makes a great building surface. I use a solid core door blank from home depot that cost me about $26 for a building board.

My balsa for sheeting just got in. I will be starting sheeting all my parts and then I will go through the process of glueing on the end caps and setting the incidence. Then it will be on to cutting the hinge lines. Don't get scared it is pretty easy. When you are done with this you will love foam wings and will never want annother built up wing.

Keep the pics coming!

Brent
Old 12-19-2007, 09:50 PM
  #56  
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

It's been a long week, I'm tired my back is a little sore. This is all I'm going to do tonight. I should get more done this weekend.

I'll flip it over and start on the turtledeck next.

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Old 12-21-2007, 08:28 AM
  #57  
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Looks like I've made my first significant mistake (that I know of anyway)

I need some ideas. When the formers/supports for the turtle deck were glued I guess I bumped the T2 (first vertical one) it's leaning forward a little which has created a low spot which I would imagine will create a sheeting problem.

Idea 1. I didn't use much titebond maybe I can pop the stringers loose and straighten the former/support.

Idea 2. Sheet a small area about 4x6 with 3/32 then get a long flat block and sand it level, If the extra grams bother me I can cut out the openings and just leave the "shims"

Any ideas welcome.

Scott

*UPDATE* The stringers popped loose with my bare hands, it took enough pressure I was starting to worry about breaking something else but all of them popped loose and I will straighten the former/support tonight. Looks like an easy fix. None of the stringers came loose anywhere except the one former I pulled from, this tells me there is enough glue, I was putting a lot of pressure on the nearest formers and none of the stringers came loose except where I wanted them too.

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Old 12-21-2007, 05:19 PM
  #58  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Scott

That is a pretty small error and pretty easly fixed.

I agree that breaking it loose and getting the former straight was the best move.

Brent

Old 12-22-2007, 09:30 AM
  #59  
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

I really like this kit you have here. A have a few questions. What size is the wing tube and do you have one available for purchas? Does it come with the sleeve for the wing panels? Same question for the stab tube.
Does the fuse have room for a can or possibly a tuned pipe tunnel if one was wanting to add one?

EDIT: You might want to post this in the kit building forum also. That way more "builders" might get wind of your kit. As you know there is a shortage of fun kits to build.
Old 12-22-2007, 10:57 AM
  #60  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

The wing tube is 1" carbon fiber and the stab tube is 1/2" carbon fiber. They are both available through Troy built models. The sleeves that you are talking about I am asuming that you mean the sockets. The wing panels come with the sockets installed in the wings. The wings have a plywood captivation rib installed as well 1" from the end of the socket. There are 2 options on how to get the kit. With the wings vaccume bagged and sheeted ready to glue on the leading and trailing edges or with the foam parts just cut. The second option you will have to do the sheeting yourself.

There is no room for cans or a tuned pipe in this plane. I did this to keep the weight down. You could modify the fuse to make room for a tunnel. That would take a lot of work. The front of the fuse is 9 1/2" in diameter. That does not leave a lot of room for a can or pipe.

You are right that I need to put this in the kit building forum. Is there a way to post it in both places or do I just need to put in a link?

If you have any more questions just shout!

Brent
Old 12-22-2007, 01:36 PM
  #61  
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Well I made a little progress on the sheeting. I have the rudder and the elevators in the vacume bag. I also have my sheeting glued together for the wings. I will try to get the leading and trailing edges on tomorrow and show how to set up the stab incidence and start cutting hinge lines.

Brent
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Old 12-22-2007, 05:15 PM
  #62  
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Stab and rudder are out of the bag. You need to now cut your stock for the leading edge and trailing edge.

(On my plane I use 1/16" sheeting the kits that go out with 3/32" sheeting may need to cut the stock a little taller. Measure the Thickest part of the leading and trialing edge and cut you stock to that measurement.)

Both the stabs and the rudder use a peice of 1/2x1/2 for the trailing edge and a peice of 1/2x3/8 for the leading edge. I set up my bandsaw to rip the material out of the provided sheets. I use gorilla glue to attach the leadin and trailing edges. On the leading edge the 1/2" measurement is up and down and the 3/8 measurement is front and back. Spray a little water on the stock that has been cut to the correct thickness and length.
Use plenty of tape to hold the LE and TE in place while the glue foams up and cures.

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Old 12-22-2007, 05:35 PM
  #63  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Scott

I was just looking at you picture in post 56. It looks like you have not yet put in the landing gear plate. You may have a problem getting it in now that you have the front bottom fuse former in. It locks into the front cowl former. It may me necessary to cut off a little from the back of the landing gear plate. This will let you stick the tab into the slot in the cowl former and rotate it down into position. Then you can just glue the peice that you cut off back in. The other option would be to cut the tab off and glue the plate in. I would then drill through the tab into the gear plate and pin it with some bamboo skewers.

Brent
Old 12-22-2007, 09:10 PM
  #64  
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Yeah, I figured that out too

I'm not being real picky about where everything lines up. This is my first plane so I'm using it to learn and so far it's built to my satisfaction (especially for a first effort) but anyway the first bottom former is a tad back, maybe leans back a little. It was a tight fit but I just beveled the rear edge ever so slightly and crammed it in there. Went in easily enough that it didn't pop anything else loose. I glued it in this morning. I also figured out what these little mysterious 1/2 circles with 1/4 hole in the middle were for when I did my front dowels for the hatch (at least I hope that's what they are for) I don't follow instructions well, if you covered it, I missed it. Which is certainly possible because I just skim over what you do to get the general idea and away I go.



I've got the hatch stringers on and the front dowel pins in. Glued the hatch retainers in, I hope it's not too early. I clamped them outward to the side of the fuse and down. I wanted to make sure they lay flush on the inside of the fuse so they won't be pulled loose when I tighten the screws. I got 6-32 screws and blind nuts. They didn't have 4-40 at home depot which is what my H9 Extra uses. I have not set the nuts or drilled yet. What size screws do you use and/or recommend?

Do I have to wait until everything is sheeted and sanded and fitted to complete my hatch?

Oh and what kind of incidence meter do you recommend?

and no the sockets are not glued yet. I just slid them in to make sure my wing tubes were as square as the fuse. Everything is nice and true. If I get all my incidences set right this should be the best flying plane I've ever had.
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Old 12-22-2007, 10:44 PM
  #65  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

You are correct on the little circles. They are doublers to hold the dowls in for the hatch. I would wait until you have the cheeks in place and the top of the fuse and the hatch sided sanded into place. You need to glue a strip of balsa between the 2 hatch formers just behind the sheeting. This is there to keep the the sheeting where it meets the hatch from getting too thin. I will post some pics when I do that step. You did the hatch retainers right. The get clamped flush with the inside of the fuse. I use 6-32 nylon bolts to hold the hatch down. You will end up drilling the hatch retainers for blind nuts. It may be necessary to open the holes up on the top of the fuse so the blind nuts have a little clearance.

I have 2 robarts incidence meteres and the Hangar 9 digital. Both work very well. I don't like the one that tower sells that is a laser incidence meter. If the laser pointer does not swing with out any resistence it can be hard to get repeatable results. All 5 of these planes that I have built so far just by centering up the root caps the incidence has been right. It is very important to check it though. I recomend this for any plane. It can be very hard to find a problem if you are not sure that every thing is set correctly.

For the hardware for the gear I use 10-32 or 10-24 which ever you find. I use socket head bolts and nylocks on the gear and blind nuts through the fuse sides.

This plane builds very straight. I am sure you will be thrilled with the way it flies.

Brent
Old 12-23-2007, 05:39 PM
  #66  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

The procedure for the LE and TE are the same for all the flying surfaces. After you get the LE and TE glued on sand them down flush with the sheeting. I don't finish making the LE round until after I get the incidence set. Mark the shape of the Elevator and Rudder on a peice of 1/2" balsa. This is the end cap that can be made round or left flat if you want. Rough cut it to shape and glue it on. Tight bond works fine for this. Sand it flush with the sheeting.
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Old 12-23-2007, 05:42 PM
  #67  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Now it is time to glue in the stab tube. Install the the tube through the fuse leaving the excess hanging out of each side. Install the stab root caps into the counter sunk hole. Slide in the stab tube and wing tube and sight over the tubes to make sure they are level with each other. Once you are happy with the alignment Glue in the stab socket with epoxy and run a bead of ca around the socket with some kicker to make a fillet. Be carefull not to glue in the stab cap. I glue it in with epoxy and use a little ca and kicker to hold it inplace, then with the epoxy still wet I remove the stab root cap. Cut off the excess socket. Using a peice of balsa for a sanding block sand the socket flush with the fuse.



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Old 12-23-2007, 06:06 PM
  #68  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Setting the horizontal stab incidence.

Start by leveling the fuse. I don't have my gear here yet so I used some 2" blocks at the main gear mounting plat and where the tail wheel mounts. Slide the stab cap over the socket and center it up on the end of the stab. Slide it onto the stab tube. I use a small block of balsa clamped to the end of the fuse to keet the stab from rotating while setting the incidence. Put your incidence meter on the stab. It should be 1 Degree negative. With the stab centered up it was right on the first try. Clamp the balsa block with the stab resting on it so that it keeps the 1 degree.


Next mark the end of the stab cap. and draw a line 1/2" in from the point of the cap. This area does not get glued to the stab. Later you will glue the TE stock to it. Mix up some epoxy and apply it to the stab. do not get any in the socket or in the area you just marked off. Slide the elevator back on the tube. Screw in a couple of 4-40 bolts into the tabs to keep the stab cap secred to the fuse. I use a little masking tape along to apply preasure on the LE and TE to keep it tight aginst the stab cap while the epoxy cures. Double check that the incidence is correct and let the epoxy cure.

The procedure is the same for the other side except I clamp a peice between the 2 sides at the trailing edge to make sure that they exactly the same.


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Old 12-24-2007, 10:06 PM
  #69  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Elevator hinge line.

Start by securly taping the stab in the foam shuck that is came in. One thing to note if you are using a bandsaw like I do you may have to remark the areas to be cut out. Most bandsaws don't have a large enough throat area to cut the elevator out so it is necesary to mark and cut from the oposite side. Just mark the bottom the same at it is drawn on the top. One elevator will have to be cut with the taps on the root cap pointing down. You will need to add a spacer to the bottom shuck so that the tabs clear.

I use a fine tooth metal blade to cut my hinge lines. These blades are not as agressive and are wider so it is easier to make a straight cut. Cut the line farthest out on the counter balance first. Then cut the line that seperates the stab from the elevator. After the elevator is cut loose put a peice of tape on the trailing edge of the stab taping it to the shuck. This will keep everyting in place while you cut out the 1" hinge line from the stab. Next cut the other line at the tip of the stab. This is the line 1/4" inboard from the counter balance line. Next cut the line that remains on the stab. Start at the tip and cut towards the root cap stoping just short of the root cap.

Next cut the angle peice out of the inboard part of the elevator for rudder clearence.

Repete the process for the other side. Also you do the rudder the same way. If you are going to make your cuts with a hand saw I would recomend using a hacksaw. Make your cuts at a slight angle so that you will have a little foam to sand smooth after you seperat the peices.

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Old 12-24-2007, 10:33 PM
  #70  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

The first picture is a fixture that I use for beveling my hinge line stock. It is a peice of alum. angle screwed to wood blocks that have been cut at a 20 degree angle. I then set my bandsaw cutting deck to aroung 10 degrees. You can do the same thing with the rip fence and setting the table to around 30 degrees. I use the alum angle just because it is a little more convient to hold the stock to and I can lower the cutting guides a little closer to the peice that is being cut.

Make end caps for the stab, ele out of scrap 1/16" balsa and glue them on with tightbond. I use a stick ontop of the cap with tape holding it down while the glue dries. The stick in the middle applies even preasure the full length of the cap.

Cut 4 peices of 1/2" balsa plank 12 1/2" long. The 4 peices need to be ripped to the thickest measurement on the stab. It should be aroung 1 3/4" to 1 5/8" depending on if you have 3/32" or 1/6" sheeting. Tape 2 peices together. This will make the ele side and the stab side of the hinge line. Mark the center line. Now mark the hinge locations. I place the first hinges 1" in from each end of the hinge line. Then I add to more hinges devideing the space evenly between them. It will be aroung 3 1/2". Drill 3/16" holes for robarts pin type hinges. Mark the peices bev for the side that will get beveled and which side goes to the stab or ele. Mark the bevel you need to cut on one end of the peices to get beveled. Adjust the saw and fence to get the blade where you like it. I don't cut it to the exact size. I leave a little extra to be sanded off once the bevel is cut.
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Old 12-24-2007, 10:45 PM
  #71  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Next I use a cone shaped grinding stone in my drill press to make the reliefe for the hinge knuckle. Glue the beveld stab and elevator peices in place. Take extra time to get them centered on the surfaces. You also need to shorten the peice that will be glued to the stab. When every thing is glued in place there should be a 1/8" gap between the stab and the counter balance of the elevator. I glue the beveled peices on with tightbond wood glue. Gorilla glue will expand into the holes that you have drilled for the hinges and can cause a bit to move off center when you redrill the holes. Use plenty of tape to securly hold the beveled peices in place. Once dry sand them flush with the sheeting. Drill through the holed into the foam and you are done. I get a little over 60 degrees deflection by doing it this way and no hinge gap.

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Old 12-26-2007, 06:34 PM
  #72  
Stick Bender
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

I'm going to slow down a little bit. The wing/stab tubes I have been using are for an SD Model Yak and don't fit this plane. I need to have the right tubes to set my stab/wing incidence. The tubes are ordered and I should get them next week.

I got the thurtledeck sheeted and it turned out pretty good on the first try. My seems on my sheeting are not over a rib (something I may regret later) I will try to get the wood around the edges of the rear stabs next.

Note: some of my previous pictures have the stab tube socket in the wrong hole. Luckily I was just mocking it up, nothing was glued in.

If your looking over my posts please keep in mind this is my first airplane build ever, I'm just letting Greg and Brent know how I'm doing on my build and hoping someone will catch my mistakes soon enough to fix them. So far everything has gone pretty well.

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Old 12-26-2007, 06:48 PM
  #73  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Scott

It looks like your are doing a good job on the build. This being you first kit ever is pretty cool! Just shows how easy this plane is to build. I dropped my digital camera and now it is a fishing weight. I should have a new one tomorrow. Did the sheeting flatten out much between the stringers? Glad to see that you did not glue in the stab tube. It needs to go in the front hole. If you put it in the rear hole there is no room for the servo. Keep up the good work and post as often as you can. It is great to see your plane coming together!

Do my instructions for cutting out the controll surfaces and doing the hinge line make sense? The bevels can be done with a knive and a sanding block but it is hard to get it just right. The way I have shown eleminates most of the chances for error.

Brent
Old 12-27-2007, 09:44 AM
  #74  
Stick Bender
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

There are a couple spots near the rear where the sheeting flattened out between the ribs. It's slight enough that I have sanded the high spots and it's hard to see anything is wrong. You can feel it and when light hits it just right you can see it. It's the kind of thing that 99% of people won't even notice. I thought of several things I could do but they would all add weight, my thinking is "it's good enough"

I got a band saw from a guy at work, I'm going to buy it if it works out for me, now I just have to buy or borrow an incidence meter and I think I'll be set up to finish. Oh, I might get a drill press or use one for the hinge holes.

Thanks for all the help.

Scott
Old 12-27-2007, 04:16 PM
  #75  
Brent G
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Default RE: Brent Good Custom Airframes 50cc Yak 54

Carefull using a table saw!! If you can get ahold of a bench top bandsaw that is the way to go. The round blade on the table saw will not cut all the way into the corners. The flat spots can be filled with light weight spackeling compound. This can be found at lowes or home depot. It weighs nothing and sands like balsa.

Anything I can do to help.

Brent

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