DA3

Mitsu what is the distance from plug to plug on the RCGF 100. The DA-100 doesn't quite fit cowl, I think I will cut out around the plugs and fiberglass bubbles around them , I don't like holes in the cowl.

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

I'm not near the plane at this point, so I can't measure the distance but I'll try to get that for you. The plugs are angled upward rather than down as in the DA 100. I don't think its very much smaller physically than the Da 100 but it is lighter than the new DA 100. The clearance on the tight side was such that I had to take a piece of cardboard and slide it between the plug cap and the cowl to be sure it actually was not touching. It wasn't, so that was a relief. I now have to start thinking about cowl baffling. I want to have a solution for that before it's first flight.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Robin, nice install, I love the blue line, would love to have a source of it here locally.

Dave, come on down. Yes , the Golf dome is E-flight only,LOL. Wood blades only on helis...dont ask why.


Axiss....that DL100 should be fine. I think if you stay with the petrol oil, and don't wail on it , the DL's it wil last long.


I deadstick crashed my Lanier Yak Sunday morning.

First flight of the beautiful day, 3 minutes in , needles finally set for no blurbling, running great. Not. There is little/none air exit in this cowl. It got hot and quit, I know this 'cus after the crash, and a long walk, the motor was still very hot.

The louvres, ans the cyl hole, exhaust all have to be bigger. I am going to dig out the louvre holes for sure. Maybe even a complete open bottom.

DA's "pink up" when overheated. Mine was not pink at all, but you could notice a patina change, for sure. Piston OK, plug tan.

The worst damage was the landing gear, I got idown flat after a long glide and piro through the field. Flattened it out completely, but it absorbed the 3 foot drop at the end. F1 canopy bulkhead broke free, motor box OK, strong firelwall. Broke the Menz 26x10 .

THe air flow is the big issue. If you guys are sticking the plugs out the sides, by all means, open it up for the cyl heads and let the air flow.

I bet I could straigthen this gear, but if I can get replacements, I will. CF gear would have destroyed this bird on impact, aluminum all the way for me. I was doing HARD 1/2 throttle flat spins , flips, and KE spins right before the deadstick.....the motor was HOT. LOL.

So, my Russian blonde, (EF Yellow and Black 88" Yak) was jealous of my new Russian Redhead, and put the hex on her. I immediately went home , and took the blonde out for a long day of love. LOL.

matfree

WHAT IS THE BEST FUEL TANK? 24OZ OR 32OZ FOR THE DL-100?? IF YOU WANNA FLY AROUND 15 MIN AT MOST

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

I measured the distance from outside of plug cap to plug cap and it's 11.25 inches. I'm going to try to avoid the heat issue by baffling my cowl from the beginning. I already have lots of exit air opening but I need to limit and channel that entry air over the cylinders to assure lots of flow through the cooling fins. Saw lots of cool baffling setups at the Nall ... should've taken more pics.

matfree

ANYONE HAVE PICTURES OF THE DL-100 MOUNTED ON THE FIREWALL WITH THE COWL ON. WONDER IF IT FITS.

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

You asked where you can get an RCGF 100? I meant to answer this earlier. I bought mine direct from the factory as I was considering being a dealer for the engines. I have changed direction on that thought and a new dealer has emerged in NY. You can get the engine for the same price as a DL 100 ... $700. http://www.zrcgf.com/pages/Product_line.cfm#100cc I've had two of the RCGF 65cc engines and they are sweet, thats why I got interested in the 100cc. Their new 50cc rear inductionturns 100 rpm more than a DL 50 accordding to the guys I've spoken to that are flying it. It's only $300. http://www.zrcgf.com/pages/Product_line.cfm#50cc

matfree

MITSU1,
WOULD YOU SAY THIS IS A GOOD ENGINE FOR THE PLANE. HAVE YOU BEEN FLYING WITH IT? WHAT ABOUT RELIABILITY AND SUPPORT. thANKS MATFREE

aaxiss

I may just go with the same engine mitsu has except I will wait for the bottom carb engine .... gonna be a while before I can afford one anyway..

Went and got my robarts this morning and got the Ailerons and elevators hinged and sealed, hinge line on this plane was fairly straight.... about 1/16 of waiver from being perfect which I can live with. Still toying with the Idea of a pull-pull rudder, haven't really got that far yet as I wanted to get the hinging done so I can pack the wings and stabs in the bag and put them somewhere safe where I can't run them over with my wheelchair LOL. gonna go back to the hobby store in a bit and pick up a 32 oz tank. that should give me 15 mins easy if you follow the 1oz per min per 50cc rule so that will give me 15 min flights easy with a good margin.

The wheels that came with my kit are kinda smallish and cheesy. gonna weigh them and check what they got at the HS, not too concerned with size as much as stregnth. Probably end up going with the Dubro 4" wheels, they work good on my 50cc plane and this will only be around 5 lbs more.

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

I haven't flown my engine yet, just going on the word of those who have and they say it is a strong performer with easy starting, on par with the other better quality engines. My experience with their other engines lead me to believe the reports. I have a new in the box 3W 106iB2, but I have more interest in this engine at the moment. It's certainly noticeably lighter than the 3W. The side carb 100cc was actually released before the rear carb version. The factory says the rear carb version is smoother.

I'm running through ideas for the cowl baffling through my head. I'm beginning to be concerned about weight with all my mods and now cowl baffliing.

Doppelganger

My Feedback: (1)

Mitsu1, pls post a pic of the cowl after you've completed the baffeling.

Steve

aaxiss

Well yea the older version of the engine had both the rear and bottom carbs but the updated version with the bearing wrist pin and updated reed cage is only avail in rear carb versions atm. At least that is the way I understand it reading another forum on the subject. I could be totally wrong LOL

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Mitsu, during the baffling you have to provide ample exit space for the air, I am sure you know this already. And unfortunately, that is going to be a real trick with this cowl.

I am taking the dremel to the louvres, and gutting the bottom of the cowl. A rear facing scoop to suck the air out would be sweet, but glass fabricator , I am not.


Axis , yes, this plane is very straight. The pull-pull was started but changed back to rear mounted servo style bythe previous owner, I think he had alignment problems.

I am using 1 8711 on the rudder, with the servo hole re-inforced and beefed.

I Gooped my Kavans on the inside of the rims and they are holding. But, I do need to order some landing gear...[:-][:-]

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Oh Yeah,

How the hell did my crappy video make the Best Rated AND Most watched this week??

Would some of you guys go give it a 1 rating to knock it off the list?, I am embarassed. The quality is poor, I just wanted to show the power of the DA. There are much better videos...of anything. I am like, stunned. [&:][&:]

Doppelganger

My Feedback: (1)

When I try to watch it, it ends prematurely. I think I'm the only one who can't view it![]

Steve

Never mind. It played for me.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

It ends abruptly 'cus the Video Camera was junk, and a newbie was doing the taping. LOL.

Hey, I took the motor off for return to DA , the base gasket was leaking a bit (common , I quess), to send to DA. Good time for inspection.

The motor box has held up...the sides are very strong. But that angled bottom piece's seam is problematic. That is getting some re-inforcement if I can create the angle in a piece of hardwood.

F1 former, the canopy bulkhead, is a little weak right where it meets the fuse. Check.

Other than that, this bird took 2 good hits and is holding up.

Doppelganger

My Feedback: (1)

Boss, thanks for all the info and the vid. You've definately been the most helpful poster with regards to the Lanier Yak. Any other info you have to share will be greatly appreciated.

Steve

matfree

Does anyone have a picture of the da-100 or dl-100 mounted on the firewall with the Cowl on. Trying to deside on 100cc or 85cc dont want to cut the cowl but would like to see what the 100cc's would look like and how they fly????? THanks Matt

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

I previously posted a pic of my 100cc mounted on the firewall with the cowl on. Its not a DA or DL but its a 100cc twin, and ... there's only so much visual difference in a twin cylinder engine nestled inside of a cowl ...

matfree

Mitsu you have the rcgf 100. I am wondering what distance is cap to cap. THe dl-100 and da seem to be the same at 11.4 inches cap to cap.

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

RCGF is 11.25" measured from outside edge of plug cap to outside edge of opposing plug cap.

matfree

So my guess is that 11.4 would be hitting since member da3 said he was going to cut cap holes for his DA-100. Wish i had a picture.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

I Don;t know how you guys with the twins are going to get enough air through the cowl to cool them. I know I will be gutting the bottom of mine, for sure. It may have to be braced with cf and overlayed glass , just for support. The only way I can see getting enough air through is opening the bottom completely, or fabbing a rear facing scoop.

Some very delicate dremeling of the louvres may help , too...[:-][:-]

Even baffled , where would the air go in a twin install? And have a larger exit than entrance is near impossible.

I really think a healthy motor is going to need this cowl to be swiss cheese....um, Russian style

I am just going attack mine with the dremel and Sharpie marker and see how it turns out. If the bottom, after being gutted, makes the cowl flimsy, I can lay cf rod around the perimeter of the hole and glass over it. Pain in the butt, but I can;t see another way....

Anyone?

2robinhood

Well, UPS & Fed-Ex showed up today and I have all my goodies.
The only thing now is the DL-100, which I got a Fed-Ex tracking number, so it's on the way.

Tonight I mounted the skywriter smoke pump, the Smartfly power expander, Futaba R617FS FASST RX, wing servos, and the tail servos.
Wing servos are Hitec HS-5645MG, all four in the tail are Hitec HS-5955TG, and all extensions are Hitec heavy duty twisted.
Two batteries for the RX, they are the new Spektrum 6V 2700mah Nimh packs.
Switches are EMS Heavy Duty.
I have not done anything with the batteries and switches till I get the engine.
Once I get the engine mounted, I will play with battery location for balance.
I am trying to figure out where to mount my switches.
I am running four of them, three EMS ( two RX and one ignition ) and a standard for the smoke system battery.
Where do you guys have yours mounted?

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Robinhood, man, that looks like an Ivory Palace in that bird. Absolutely gorgeous.

One thing is for sure, if you have any blowback, or smoke oil mishaps , clean up will be a breeze. Wow.

My bird was not initially bult by me, but my one Pin switch is above the wing mid-chord in one of the voids. The ignition switch, a JR HD Charge SW, is mounted on the cowl, again not my choice.

I prefer one switch for the whole plane. One Pin-flag switch , soft reg shutdown.

The Smart-fly Opti-kill controls ign power and is DEfaults to OFF when the receiver is powered down. I plug and unplug my Relions during assy, and dis assy.

Nice Job, Robin, best interior shot I have seen in quite a while. I have a scratch built Tri-Pacer that my Pop built 20 years ago with the same treatment. Beautiful.