allied

Why not use an AR7000 in a 100CC 102" extra?

allied

This is my first "big" plane and I didnt realize there would be so many ways to set it up. I have several 50cc birds and other than some torqy servos I really didnt set them up different from a 60 size plane. Now confusion is setting in!

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

I give up. Why? [sm=confused.gif]

stangman67

My Feedback: (1)

You absolutely can, it would be quite easy with a smartfly power system.

allied

Thats what I thought. I have a smart Fly super reg. So I guess I need an expander right? I think I need what, four batteries, two for avionics and one for ignition. Then the smoke pump gets its own. DANG I feel like a newbie/

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

Or, maybe just a couple batteries and switches for simplicity.

If I wanted complexity worth redundancy, I'd go with two completely separate RX systems bound to the same TX, controlling opposite sides of the plane as Don A's book recommends. Throttle goes to only 1 side of course, but elev and ailerons go to opposite RX's for that side of the plane. Rudder can be split if sharing servos.

allied

Simple does sound good. I would need guidance to wire the expander, regulator, switches and batteries.

stangman67

My Feedback: (1)

The expander is going to be the simplest way to go with a 100cc plane. With the multiple sevos per control surface, it will be nice to have a way to gang servos together without having to use y cables or synchronizers. They have built in ignition cutoffs and failsafe switches as well.

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

I know that people who have power expanders love to defend them to the end, but I fail to see how a piece of electronic equipment is "simpler" (and arguably more reliable) than a Y harness.

If you use Hitec Servos, they can be programmed, so no need to have a synchronizer and a Y harness is easy to make if you can solder 6 connections and aply shrink tube. Of course this needs to be done once per servo sharing each extended common control surface. This is a simple yet time consuming operation, but results in a reliable result assuming soldering skills exist. I would not say it's "simpler" to use a power expander unless you already know how to use one. A distant second choice would be to use a matchbox.

Also, the only real failsafe I desire is already supplied by the AR7000== idle on the throttle. All other flight surfaces hold last good position which is what I desire most.

But if you already have non Hitec servos, and a power expander (which you love, trust and cannot part with it), then of course you'll use that.

allied

Can the AR handle the current load of 8 servos with no problem? Dont want to fry anything.

taildragger21

My Feedback: (197)

I fly futaba fasst in my planes.. I have one 6014 rx in my EF 110" yak.. I mixed all the servo's via 12fg..Power comes from 2 2300 a123's with deans 100 amp connections to a fromeco wolverine switch. Then from the switch is 3 jr style leads into the rx.. This works well, handles the current fine, and is siple stupid. plus the wolverine switch is a failsafe switch (fails in the on position) and a battery share all in one.. Light and simple.. if your radio is not capable like previously said if you buy hitec program them..

allied

THat sounds pretty simple. I see the A123 batteries mentioned alot. I will take a closer look. I actually use the Hobbico CS 150 servos. I admit I dont know how to program a servo.

JIMMYTHEEAGLE

My Feedback: (47)

I have used a single AR7000 with one battery and one switch for three years in a 102 yak. No problems. I have also used two, AR7000 with their own battery pack and switches for 2 years in a 40% plane. No problems and no y harness.

Nelvick

My Feedback: (2)

I have 2 years with this setup without problems in my AW Extra 260 35%

allied

Nelvick, what batteries are you using?

Carpilot

I would not hesitate about using an AR7000 in anything.

allied

Thanks guys, I apreciate the info.

Rockyaged

In my 38% Columbo Anderson, I am using a Hitech 9100 receiver. This reciever has two input,
Heavy gauge wires. I hook up an A123 battery to each input wire. No regulator, no power
expander. Though you can program Hitech servos, I think you will still need some way to
syncronize them, if you go two on each wing. I use Match Boxes for ailerons and rudder.
For most Ignitions, you'll need to drop the A123 battery down to less than 6 or 7 volts. I like
5.5 volts, as I think the Ignition will last longer with less voltage, and 5.5 volts work fine in
my DA Ignition.
I urge you to find someone near your location who has the experience of setting up a multi-
servo set up. I have not met any Giant Scale modeler who wasn't willing to help and show the
way.

Gerald

allied

Thanks Gerald.

thevirginian

I agree with wind junkie 100%. This was exactly the same set-up I had in my 35% Suki. Two AR7000. Worked flawlessly and is cheaper than one of these fancy power expanders, that add only more useless electronics to the system. Stick with the simple stuff.

allied

You guys are right. Keep it simple.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

I was going to post this same thing and you guys both have it covered. Why get a power expander when you can just use a 2nd AR7000 and have a chance to land the plane with elevator and aileron control? ..... and half the power going through each receiver!

allied

Last question. Do the A123 batteries do good for the ignition module for the DLE 111? Or, are the LIFE batteries a better choice.

stangman67

My Feedback: (1)

A123=Life. Both are fine but you still need a regulator to drop the voltage under 6 volts

allied

I noticed the error in my last question after I posted it. sorry guys. I intended the question to be LIFE vs. LIPO. Around the 2100 mah? Maybe close to a 10c.