Smart Fly?
 

Hey guys,

Done quite a bit of research on a 50cc build I'm planning, however I still have some questions regarding Smart Fly.


What is the best Smart Fly setup on a budget? What all do I need?

Locally I can get a Smart Fly Power Expander Sport (non PLUS) from a guy used for cheap. He's also selling a BattShare, 6V regulator, Equalizer 2. What is the equalizer for? I would still need to purchase a fiber Optic Kill, as well as a fail-safe correct? What does the PLUS version of this have included?

Can I run Li-po's into it? Or do I have to stick with Nimh/Nicd/A123? Doesn't say anything about Lipo's on the site.

Basically just looking for a good setup on a budget. I'd rather not spend $400 on Smart Fly equipment if I can help it... :P

Thanks!

RE: Smart Fly?
 

What radio and reciever are you using? There really is no need for a power expander on a 50cc plane if you have enough ports in your reciever. The set up I would use is one A123 going into a Smart fly super switch with 2 leads going into the reciever. With the A123's there is no need to regulate.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

Spektrum DX6i and AR7000 RX (will only use 6/7 channels on it obviously). Just wondering on the lipo's as I have tons sitting around from electrics.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

Why type of flying do you do?

The Sport requires a reg if you are going to use lipos with it.

The Equalizer is a waste of money if you spend some time and set your surfaces up properly. He probably used it to match the end points and center on the elevators. However that doesn't give you a proper setup so the surfaces actually move at the same time.

On a 50cc you could eliminate it all by following flatspin's suggestion... An ignition kill is always nice though.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

listen to flatspin

RE: Smart Fly?
 

flatspin has it right. But add the stand alone smartfly optic kill.

Cheers,

Andrew.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

As stated, don't worry about the smart-fly. You could also use two Nicads into 2 seperate switches plugged into the Rx - one into the battery port, and the other plugged into a Y lead into the throttle (or where ever). If you use Lipo's you will need a regulator. A seperate remote kill switch is also a good idea, this could either be an optical style kill swith plugged into the gear channel or a seperate servo to control the choke. Either way works.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

I realize you want to use a Lipo already in stock. But having to use regulator will add another component that may fail on you later on. I had an MPI regulator in 100cc QQ Yak that failed after only 4 flights. They replaced it. But I then switched to Duralite regulator so I don't have to worry about regulator failure.
If you're on a budget and have a charger that can take on Lithium Nanophosphate (A123 type) battery, buy the Li Nanophos battery from TBM 4800ma on layaway for $20. Break it down into 2 packs of 2400ma each, run both in your plane with 2 switches and no regulators. Voila, you're done. Lots of power and less complexity. I've done this set up for my 33% Yak with DA 85 and can fly all day with one charge.
Regarding power expanders? Don't need it for 50cc plane. Heck, don't even need it on 100cc plane per world champion QQ man Somenzini himself. He does not use the expander on his 100cc Yak even with all the crazy stuff he does on video. But in place of power expander, you need a big receiver that can handle all the servo plug ins without going through Y connectors if you can help it.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

For 50cc keep it simple. I have a single A123 going into a smart fly switch with two outputs. Thats all you honestly need. I really so need need for a dual battery setup in a 50cc sized plane. Flying a lot of hard 3D I have yet to kill a 50cc plane on this setup.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I would really really like to do a redundant battery setup. Reason why? Our flying club has world class members who fly here, and this season I MYSELF have seen over 6 50cc-50% sized planes go in. Several of those were because something failed in the RX setup. These guys are using top quality brands and extremely thorough with their planes. Friend Ryan had his 150cc QQ Python go in ($5200 down the drain) though his was a deadstick gone bad. :(

I really don't want to risk it, as I've seen what a failed RX looks results in. I realize it's probably overkill, but if it saves a crash over the life of a plane the extra $40 spent is more than worth it.

1. Thanks for the info. I realized I'll probably just purchase new lipos or liFe (a123) batts. A123's are 6.6V, is this okay unregulated? (AR7000 Spektrum)

2. Checked and my charger will charge both. Only thing I don't like about the a123's is they're 40% heavier than LiPo. But I guess it wouldn't be that big a deal in 50cc+. I'll prob run a dual switch setup with dual rx inputs.

3. What are good brands of switches? I know you recommended Smart Fly. Any others very reliable brands?

4. Can someone clarify the reason for using a servo choke setup or opti kill switch? Why can you just set the throttle servo to fully close with the engine cut function of my TX like I do on my glow planes???

Thanks!

RE: Smart Fly?
 

I would roll with this:

1. Two A123 1100 MAH packs - Each could provide you enough flight time for maybe like 5-6 flights of about 10 mins. A typical 50cc sized plane will draw about 200 MAH per 10 min flight on an A123 pack.

2. http://www.fromeco.org/Products/04FR...s/Default.aspx Get yourself a Badger switch with your dual battery switch and call it a day.

Remember the theory of your back up battery is that it should only come into play if your MAIN pack fails. This being so you could run a much smaller pack as your back up.

Honestly most 50cc planes can not handle much extra weight. The more complex systems you can add to them the more they will not fly great. Honestly the ONLY extra weight I would think worthwhile would be an additional RX battery. Still A123 would be a great way to go because with 6.6V you wont have to use regulators.

Myself I fly with servos that can handle up to 7.4V so this is a non issue. However being able to eliminate regulators is a nice thing. Once less thing to fail.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

Closing the throttle or choke does not reliably kill Electronic ignition engines Eganwp.

Get the SmartFly optic kill or something like the 42% products kill. Opening the circuit for the EI ALWYAS kills the engine on demand. Plus the fact that you can set a failsafe so the engine kills if you lose your radio link is prudent as well as responsible. Seeing a big gas plane flying away from you under no control is a sinking feeling you never want to experience...


Cheers,

Andrew.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

Here is what I use in my 30% and 35%: In my 30% I use one MPI Miracle switch and two Lipos with 2400mA each in an AR7000 receiver. The ignition kill is a 42% switch. Same set up for the 35% except two Miracle switches, two Lipos 3600mA each and two AR7000. Also one 42% kill switch. Both set ups work flawlessly with no issues, whatsoever.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

Listen to flatspin once again. Absolutly no need for fancy stuff in a 50 cc airplane. You dont need $100 servos either. 5645"s are fine 170 in oz at 6 volts. If you want redundancy, I use two recievers, two batteries, two switches, totally seperate from one another. Listen to flat spin

RE: Smart Fly?
 

I am flying $28 dollar digi servos from TBM. Zero issues with plenty of hard flying. The only reason to equip your 50cc plane with top shelf (overkill) gear is if you know you will move up to a larger size. Otherwise the more complex, fancy, and overkill you setup your plane the worse it will fly.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

I'm building a 70" SU26 with the new DLE30 engine in it that I ordered from Valleyview RC. I plan on using the A123 system that was recommended. Is there any preference of where I should buy the pack from? I have seen a couple good reviews on NoBS batteries from hangtimes.com.

Also regarding servos would the Hitec 7985MG or 5645MG be overkill? I was thinking of getting the Hitec HS645 but I don't mind spending the money if it will worth it. I plan on going to a 50CC next year and keeping or selling this aircraft so the servos won't move to another airframe unless it's not flying anymore (let's hope thats not the case!)

RE: Smart Fly?
 

The guys answering are the voice of reason. There is no need for all the fancy stuff, other than an ignition kill, in a 30% plane.

However, if you are inclined to go with the bling, I would seriously look at that new Duralite Powerbox integrated with DSM2 receiver and 4 antennas, a couple of 5000mah A123 packs for radio, another one for ignition. Don't forget the big anodized Fromeco switches on both sides, three Fromeco Weasels to track your battery consumption (very cool blue light) and to top it off, that $35 fuel cap from DA, which looks absolutely great and goes really well with the big Fromeco switches (in silver - not blue).... :)

RE: Smart Fly?
 

ok anyone else..... I am not trying to go overboard and I am keeping it light and simple! I could care less about "bling"!

RE: Smart Fly?
 

I buy my A123's from Wildhare. He sells the packs plus the Cellpro charger and the Smart Fly switches, it's plug and play.
As far as the servos, I always buy the best I can afford. Some may call it overkill but that's one thing I don't skimp on. I know you say that the servos will stay with the plane, but it's always nice to have the servos when you move up in the size of your planes.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

I agree with flatspin on the servos. I always buy the coreless digi's on my gassers. Its like the radio you buy. I don't buy a 4 channel radio for my electrics, then a 6 channel for my 50cc's, then another 10 channel for my 35%ers. I only have one good radio that will fly every thing I have, and will have.[sm=thumbup.gif]

RE: Smart Fly?
 

Thanks steve.

Please keep the suggestions coming.

Do you think the HS5645MG for the aileron and elevators plus a 7985MG for the tail would be sufficient? Also still not sure if I am going to use a A123 or 6 volt NIMH battery. I don't think either would require a regulator. Is the MPI switch sufficient or should I look for something better.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

Your servo choices will be fine. I have my first A123 battery and like it, but the only reason I have it is because it was given to me. I can tell you that they work great. The setup that I have is the one from Wild Hare, with the single switch with dual reciever leads. I have used Li-Ions the last few years and have been very happy with those also. Dual setups are a little easier with the Li-Ions because you can use the 2 cell batts and they are smaller than the A123's. Even with the regs, I think the weight is about the same as using one A123. I've used the Fromeco Sahara's and realy like those if you choose the Ions. The A123's are a little more user friendly with the quick charge ability, but they are not as easy to test for remaining capacity.

RE: Smart Fly?
 

Your kidding right

RE: Smart Fly?
 

A123's are simple. Just don't draw down more than 1500mah from a 2600 mah pack. Using a decent charger you can see how much you have taken out. I usually will use about 200mah per flight including 3d stuff. That's about as much flying in a day that I will do. Worse case I throw it on the charger and 20mins later I am good to go. Really not rocket science just a bit different.

Overall really awesome batteries to work with. Again once you get used to the concept of seeing how much you take out vs. a loaded reading they are super simple.