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Bud Nosen 1/4 scale J-3 Cub

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Bud Nosen 1/4 scale J-3 Cub

Old 02-22-2012, 09:13 PM
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Default RE: Bud Nosen 1/4 scale J-3 Cub

Jim;do you have the prints that shows the layout of the ribs?most of the kit plans for the cubs the ailerons are hinged on the top with either flat hinges or the robarts.so the airleron only goes so far down and stops.use lite ply on the 2 ribs that will hold the horns.and in between them use 1/8 ply for the horn to screw or bolt to.
Old 02-22-2012, 09:36 PM
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Default RE: Bud Nosen 1/4 scale J-3 Cub

Jim;go back to the main page an scroll down to 1/3 busa super cub build page 7 its the same thing you want to do.George.
Old 02-23-2012, 05:07 AM
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Default RE: Bud Nosen 1/4 scale J-3 Cub

George,

Thanks for the tip on the Balsa USA 1/3 scale cub. Those photo's have helped me a lot. I now know what to do the complete the ailerons
Old 02-23-2012, 09:48 AM
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Default RE: Bud Nosen 1/4 scale J-3 Cub

Jim; you have my E-MAIL contact me and I'll send some pics of a scratch build I'M working on know.and your welcome I am always enjoy helping.you should do well know on those wing parts.George.
Old 08-18-2020, 12:10 PM
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Default Bud Nosen Caub

Sorry I have been away from this project way to long. I am back at it now and I want to thank you all for help with this. I got this cub with the body and wing already build. I have the plans but no instructions so I am still winging it. I now have the the vertical stab built but have no idea how the mount it to the fuselage. I have the cowl ordered from fiberglass specialties but it is the standard cub cowl. My engine is going to be a EME 35 I have on hand that has the real mounted carb so it will be a little to long. I plan on cutting a hole in the firewall so the carb will go into the fuselage. That should aloe me to get the right distance for the prop and hub. I will post some pics soon on my progress.
Old 08-19-2020, 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jstanton
My next door neighbor got a Bud Nosen 1/4 scale J-3 Cub from his Dad after he passed away. The plane is about 75% complete and is missing the ailerons, cockpit windows and cowl.[:@] Is there a place where we can find the cockpit windows and cowl? We will try and find out what we need for the ailerons. Also the plans say a .60 to .80 glow engine. I was wondering if a DLE-20 might workout OK or maybe a DLE-30? I would like to spin a large wood prop for a more scale look
I'm flying with an old Super Tigre 3000. A bit too much for the plane but it is what I had on hand. Using one in my big Aeronca too.
Old 08-19-2020, 03:48 AM
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Sebo

Did you use the standard Cub cowl or the super cub cowl for the Super Tiger 3000 to fit? I am using the standard Cub Cowl that is shorter then the Super Cub cowl and will have to make a hole in the firewall for the rear carb on the EME 35 to fit through so I can get the right distance to the prop hub. I will be taking some picks and post them latter today.
Old 08-19-2020, 04:14 AM
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Standard cowl from Fiberglass Masters. No modifications necessary except for the standard cutouts for engine head, muffler, and throttle control. You could build the fuselage out from the firewall creating the necessary distance for you to mount the cowl. . This would move the cowl mount area forward. I've done this on a couple of planes. Not a difficult process. Just be sure to put hardwood mounting areas where you plan to secure the cowl to the extended Fuselage. Wishing you luck, Ron
Old 08-19-2020, 11:14 AM
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I think I will do as you suggested about the cowl. I ordered the standard cowl with engine from fiberglass specialties. I will mount the EME 35 to the firewall and add hardwood support blocks to the firewall to move the cowl a little forward.

This will also help me with the rudder and elevator servos because I plan on mounting them in the rear of the fuselage.
Old 08-19-2020, 01:01 PM
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Sounds like a good plan. Good luck. Post (if you can) as you go along. Pictures of things like this are cool because it helps others.
Old 08-19-2020, 03:31 PM
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Here are a few pics of the vertical and horizontal stabilizers. I tried something a little different. I traced out the Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizers on 1/8" plywood then cut them out on my band saw. I then clued 1/8" strips of balsa to both sides to give it the required 3/8" thickness. I am then cutting out the 1/8" plywood between the balsa strips. Here are a few pics. I have only cut out the horizontal stabilizer so far.



Old 08-19-2020, 04:34 PM
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I just added light contest grade balsa to the tail of a 40 size plane as you have added the ply to yours. Being a 40 size plane it was necessary to add 4 ounces of weight to the nose to get the CG back to where it was before I messed with the tail. With a plane the size of yours and with the servos in the back and the ply, you could end up having to add about 3/4 to 1 pound of weight up front...Yo might consider moving the servos up front to help counter the extra weight you are adding to the tail. Tail weight builds up faster than you could possibly imagine. Be careful....even balsa weighs a ton when it is put back there.The added strength isn't necessary on a cub because of the guy wires supporting the tail rudder and stab (underneath and on top). You might want to cut the ply back closer to the ribs and frame of the tail. That is an awful lot of weight...enough that it scares me in as much as you may not have the docile flying plane the cub is. This is just my opinion.....I have been building since I was 12 years old and flying r/c since 1978. I am 78 years old and have a couple hundred planes that I have built under my belt. I also have designed and built planes for Model Airplane News and had them published. I'm not a great pilot but I consider myself a pretty good builder... Think about what I have said. I have an article in r/c universe about an Aeronca and a "lancair with retracts".That won't help you with this plane but it might give you an idea of my building skills.
Thanks for listening to me ramble on.....Your Idea is admirable and will definitely add strength to the tail surface but do consider the additional weight....this is MHO. Cordially, Ron
Old 08-19-2020, 05:55 PM
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Sebo,

I get what you are saying and I will be trimming off as much of the 1/8 plywood as I think is safe to do. I will also move the servo's for the Rudder and elevator as close as I can to the CG. I was really worried about how long the rods are going to be. I will be moving the cowl about a inch forward so the EME 35 prop hub will not be sticking out. I thank You for your help and with this I believe all will be good. I will have more questions as the building goes on.
Old 08-19-2020, 06:29 PM
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Consider using arrow shafts for push rods. Some r/c distributors sell arrow shaft type push rods with the end connectors and threaded rods. I have used both. I now use the plain arrow shafts because I bought several at a yard sale and now know how to create the end connectors and threaded rods. You may want to put a brace or two in so that the rods don't get to oscillating at high speeds.....yea, high speeds on a cup. I have to be kidding. Pictures attached.

The writing and drawings are for how to put a single rod into a arrow shaft. I prefer the arrow shaft because it is stiffer than the yellow purchased push-rod.
Old 08-19-2020, 06:40 PM
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Where can one purchase these arrow shafts? I have never heard of them. Does Tower Hobbies carry them?
Old 08-19-2020, 07:09 PM
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You might try here CF Rods or go to a sporting good store and just buy a couple of arrow shafts. They can be cheap or expensive. You aren't going hunting big game so all you need is a cheepie. Test to see how stiff it is and how heavy it is. You can try looking for Fiber glass rc pushrods and see what you come up with. You seem to be a handyman. Try making your own. It isn't hard. Just be sure that you epoxy the dowel rod in when you make the final fitting. Shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes on the first one then only a few minutes on the next. You will do it forever. YOU MAY EVEN TRY A YARD SALE TYPE OF WEEKEND LOOKING FOR ARROW SHAFTS....THAT CAN BE FUN TOO...YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU MIGHT FIND. LOTS OF LUCK
Old 08-19-2020, 07:10 PM
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Mine are aluminum.
Old 08-20-2020, 03:22 AM
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Thank you for the help. I did not realize you were talking about arrows for a bow. I thought they were some new kind off push rod I had not heard of before. I was thinking of doing the old wood dowel thing for the push rods. I will do what you have suggested. I just got notified that my cowl from fiberglass specialties is on its way.
Old 08-20-2020, 03:25 AM
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I have also ordered a fiberglass wing tube with carbon fiber sleeve for extra support for the wing. I will post a pic of it fitted once I have it mounted.
Old 08-20-2020, 03:38 AM
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You will find that the arrow shaft is much stronger and lighter than a dowel rod for use as a push-rod.
Old 08-25-2020, 12:06 PM
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I have gotten a little more done. here are a couple of pics. I have the eme 35 mounted and I just received the cowl from Fiberglass specialties. The cowl is better then I thought. I am going to have to move the engine out another 1/4" for get the clearance needed for the prop.


Old 08-25-2020, 05:20 PM
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That's a big engine!
Old 08-25-2020, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sebo
That's a big engine!
It is a EME 35. It is the same size as a DLE 35. I will be ordering a in cowl muffler from jtec because the stock muffler is just a little to wide to fit inside the cowl.
Old 08-26-2020, 02:32 PM
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Got a little more done today. The cowl from Fiberglass specialties is awesome. Here are a few pics.


.
Old 08-26-2020, 04:09 PM
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Cowl has upthrust. Be sure to fasten the cowl so that when a ruler is placed along the planking and the cowl, it is even. I know that it is just a quick photo but better to be reminded than have a nose up condition on the cowl. Thanks for listening. Ron

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