handyman

My Feedback: (2)

doing a 105 in stick....heres the ?.........i dont like the larger hinge points........very hard to close up the gap,,,,,,,,so i am thinking of useing CA type hinges.......i have used them for over 30 yes with out any troble,,,,,,i would use one ever 6in and i always seal the gaps top and bottom on all points............i would use a 1in wide hinge and 3/4 in deep............what do you guys think

krokko

hi
I'm doing a 1/3 spacewalker and your question made me think about same thing. I use CA type hinges on smaller models, up to 70-80", but thinking of it, I can't see why it shouldn't be OK on a 100" sportflyer. I always drill a 3mm center hole in the middle of the CA hinge, eg in the stab/elevator, so I can get C/A glue in there. Only negative would be if the C/A glue make the CA hinge hard enough to crack, which has been happening.

interesting!

rgds/krokko

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

The Sig SIGSH701 hinges are excellent. Dan.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

I don't understand why it would be hard to close the gap when using a Robart Hingepoint. When installing, you can position the hinge line anywhere you want. With the hinge pins centered on the gap you just push the surface all the way on until you get the gap you want. Its really that simple. I've always found them easy to use if you use a jig when drilling the holes and incredibly strong. I've never had a hinge point fail, I can't say that for CA hinges.

sensei

It is not hard to close the gap with Robart hinge points, it just takes a little more prep work to install Robarts...

Bob

denoferth

My Feedback: (71)

Enough lineal inches of CA hinges to be safe for a 100" model seems like adding a lot of extra hinge resistance for the servos to overcome. Large surfaces already cause high air loads that drag batteries down without adding stiff hinges into the equation. That seems to me more critical now that lots of us have switched to 2.4 radios. Instead I usually use pin type hinges and add small triangular strips to both the upper and lower edge of the back of the fixed hinged area, whether stab, rudder or Ailerons to effectively seal the hinge gap. I usually use a slightly larger triangular strip on the upper surface of the flaps unless I’m mounting them on a sailplane for trimming. You then notch out the movable surface for the hinge so it can nestle into the channel created in the fixed surface. By the time my CA type hinges are nice and flexible some have already begun to crack. My 2 cents.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I use hinge-points whenever I can. I try and keep my planes around a long time and only a few had CA hinges installed. I see those hinges breaking down over time. An Ultra-Stick 120 I bought used had them and within the year the flap CA hinges tore so I removed every surface and installed hinge-points. I use them to make scale flap hinges too. I use the Robart jig and have made my own jig for specific applications.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Radio South sells 1/4 scale CA hinges. They are tougher than standard CA hinges and I have used them for years with no failures.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I assembled a Giant Sportster using the supplied CA hinges. After noting that an elevator hinge split/failed after it's first season (the one opposite a control horn), I cut all of them and went with pinned hinges.

I would suggest you review and maybe revise your assembly process to allow for tighter tolerance on your gaps using a pinned hinge? It is possible to hold that gap as close either way you go (CA vs. pinned), and it's not that hard? Most will (should?) seal the gaps anyway...

Texastbird

+1 on the Radio South hinges. They are the only ones I will use. I have not put them on anything larger than 80" span though.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I have used them on large birds but I add hinges. Most planes will have 3 hinges so I add 2 more in the space in-between, for example. If I have matching covering I also seal the control surfaces top and bottom. Both of these steps make for a well secured surface.

bikerbc

It is not hard to close the gap with hinge points when you learn how...Plus I like to use Epo Grip epoxy because it will not run into the hinge joint..The epoxy is like vaseline and dosen't run...I made a little tool that you insert into the hinge hole after its drilled and it will make a recess for the hinge knuckle . That helps keep the hinge gap tight . Hinge points have never failed for me...I have lost CA hinges but they usually last as long as my ARF planes do...Kit built planes last longer for me usually so I always use hinge points on them...I mostly go with whatever the ARF's came with because to change to hinge points I would need to open the wing and put backing in for the hinge..the normal trailng edge's etc etc are often not thick enough to hold the hinge points properly ...

raron455

My Feedback: (38)

I have the GP ultimate, and I just had 2 of my rudder hinges CA fail,, had to cut them out and Install real hinges,, Robart hinges is the route I went,, I wont put ca hinges on any of my big planes again,,

raptureboy

On my arfs I use the Dubro nylon hinges secured with poly u glue and pin them. I had CAhinges fail on my ailerons once, not fun. I use the Robarts when kit building because I can put in the proper backing for them.

83scamp

The only planes you ever want to use CA hinges on are the one you want to crash. I almost lost a model years ago because of these stupid hinges. I have never used them since. Especially on giant scale. Only hinge I use on the big stuff is Robart.