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Corsair with DLA 128 4 Cylinder Build

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Corsair with DLA 128 4 Cylinder Build

Old 08-04-2014, 04:55 PM
  #26  
CafeenMan
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Hellcat looks awesome, by the way.
Old 08-04-2014, 05:19 PM
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Thanks. What you guys do to the plastic models is simply amazing. Absolutely incredible workmanship. It is not possible to paint a plane of this size with an airbush. It is just too big. I found a good technique that works for me is to use a really good HVLP spray gun and get the lines as close as possible with the least amount of overspray. Then I work on the line with the airbrush from each side to remove the coarse edge a little at a time.
Old 08-04-2014, 05:26 PM
  #28  
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I think that's about exactly how I would approach it. Take the best spray gun I've got that can spray the finest line and work at it with that gun and then if necessary go back over with the airbrush. My spray guns aren't nearly the quality of my airbrushes. My guns are mostly harbor freight kind of stuff. But when the day comes that it's important I'll invest more in better guns. Right now pretty much all I do is solid colors so as long as it sprays decently it's good enough.
Old 08-04-2014, 05:44 PM
  #29  
pkoury
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Originally Posted by flyn2high View Post
Thanks. What you guys do to the plastic models is simply amazing. Absolutely incredible workmanship. It is not possible to paint a plane of this size with an airbush. It is just too big. I found a good technique that works for me is to use a really good HVLP spray gun and get the lines as close as possible with the least amount of overspray. Then I work on the line with the airbrush from each side to remove the coarse edge a little at a time.
Go to an automotive paint supply shop and buy some 3M soft edge masking. This is a round soft foam material with an adhesive edge. When applied to the model you then spray the paint keeping the gun 90 degrees to the model. When you paint there will be a perfect soft edge to the colors since there is no hard tape line. I have used it on several aircraft and is by far the best way for painting soft edge schemes.
Old 08-04-2014, 05:49 PM
  #30  
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Only photo I have on this computer but shows the paint edge.
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Old 08-08-2014, 05:19 PM
  #31  
flyn2high
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The soft edge tape looks very interesting for some models. However, the transition from one color to the next is about ” wide on my model. I will probably use the airbrush to create the feathered effect.

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Old 08-08-2014, 05:20 PM
  #32  
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A wing kit is available with all of the ribs and cut out but I really enjoy doing this myself with my band and scroll saw. I made an extra copy of the three sheets of the plans with ribs and formers. I use 3M77 spray adhesive to stack the wood together and apply the rib templates to them. It is a simple matter to cut on the line and clean up the edges with a belt sander. The paper templates are easily removed with a heat gun. Care must be taken to apply only a small amount of spay adhesive especially when working with balsa. I typically only apply it very lightly on one side otherwise it may be difficult to separate them later. The center section is made like an egg crate. A little trimming is necessary so that everything fits nicely. I like using Tightbond II glue here.

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Old 08-08-2014, 05:24 PM
  #33  
flyn2high
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The wing tips are built flat on the plans. Take care to align the trailing edges so they are straight.

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Old 08-08-2014, 05:25 PM
  #34  
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The hinges for the flaps are designed with a aircraft plywood tab that extends from the trailing edge of the wing to a hinge point on the bottom of the flap segment. I was more comfortable making the tabs out of G10 fiberglass for 3 of the 4 flap hinges on each side of the wing. Below are hand sketches to show the positon and shape of the flap hinges. The inner hinge was not changed from the way the plans show.



Here are the G10 parts. Both halves of the 5H tab are being glued with Hysol.

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Old 08-08-2014, 05:28 PM
  #35  
flyn2high
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I drew up the scale aileron hinge layout on ribs 11 and 15. I will be using 3/16” hardwood spars. I cut the notches at both ends (ribs 11 and 15) and will cut the notches for the other ribs after it is assembled so that the spars are straight.

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Old 08-08-2014, 07:32 PM
  #36  
Chad Veich
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Originally Posted by flyn2high View Post
I drew up the scale aileron hinge layout on ribs 11 and 15. I will be using 3/16 hardwood spars. I cut the notches at both ends (ribs 11 and 15) and will cut the notches for the other ribs after it is assembled so that the spars are straight.
Just FYI, the Corsair utilizes a Freise type aileron so your gapless design is not exactly scale. Not sure if this is a concern or not but just throwing it out there.
Old 08-09-2014, 05:28 AM
  #37  
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Hi Chad:

Thanks for the info on the Freise type aileron. I should have known as I used that type of hinge on my Hellcat. I am going to look into that.

I now see the blisters on the bottom of the ailerons which cover the hinges. The hinge centerline looks like it must be right on or near the bottom surface of the aileron. There are no slots in the lower part of the aileron to clear the hinge blades but there are slots on the top. I can imagine how this might work with a hook type of blade but I would love to see a cross section of the full scale aileron. It is still easy for me to change.

It will probably take separate hinge blades for the wing and aileron which could be made from G10 and bolted using 2-56 screws and then covered with blisters. With the power of the engine I am worried about flutter and willing to make compromises that reduce the risk. I think the nylon tubing and hinge blade method of hinging might be stronger than going with separate hinge blades on the aileron side of the hinge. I am just thinking out loud here but possible compromise could be lowering the hinge point and keep the tube design.

An advantage of hinging at the bottom is that it would be easier to hide the aileron push rod which would be at the very top of the aileron.

The thing of it is that it is that from looking at the outside it is not easy to tell where the hinge line is unless you look at the bottom of the wing with the aileron deflected. I could always add dummy blisters to the aileron using my gapless hinge. What I am struggling with is what the aileron horn would look like.
Old 08-09-2014, 09:37 AM
  #38  
Chad Veich
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Here is how Brian Taylor handles the aileron hinging on his 1/6 scale Corsair design.





Last edited by Chad Veich; 08-09-2014 at 09:42 AM.
Old 08-10-2014, 06:34 AM
  #39  
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I looked into doing a more scale like Freise type aileron but I decided to go with my original pocket style hinge for the following reasons.

1. I want to make the control surfaces removable.
2. I want at least a 7/8” from the center to the link on the aileron horn.
3. I want it to look scale without having a big horn sticking out the bottom
4. I want it to be strong and ridged enough to not create a possible flutter situation.

I had to rule out using the Robart hinge arrangement shown above because it would not be removable and I feel that it would not be adequately ridged enough for my comfort. I made a layout using my tubing method with a 1/16” music wire hinge and it requires a large horn sticking out the bottom. I was not too keen to use an internal link above as it would be a short through from the center to the link and would be more difficult to fabricate.

The next three layouts using the original pocket hinge are to scale in Solidworks. It gives me a horn that does not stick out too far while being easy to attach and with a faring I could hide it nicely while satisfying all my requirements.

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Old 08-21-2014, 05:38 PM
  #40  
rt3232
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flyn2high

those soft edges are not as hard as you may think, go to your local auto paint supply house and get a role of the round door mask it's about 5/8 in dia and has a sticky line on it you place it ware you want it and just spray over it. You may have to move it but with a little practice it give you a nice soft line. I went to a local body shop and bummed a 4ft. piece to see how it worked.

Hope this might help

Cheers Bob T
AMA13377 Corsair Brotherhood # 6
Old 08-22-2014, 07:54 AM
  #41  
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Hi Bob:
I probably a little incorrect when I said it would be challenging to do the soft edge. Actually I have done it on four planes now using the airbrush. The Hellcat which is my latest is shown in an earlier post. On my Spit I started using ” foam tape that I cut in strips and shot on an angle. It did give a softer edge but it was not the effect I was looking for and I re-did it with the airbrush. To be honest the round tape you describe would probably work a lot better than the square edge tape I used. When the time comes I will give it a try. I can always do a touch up with my airbrush if needed.

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Old 08-22-2014, 07:56 AM
  #42  
flyn2high
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The weather in Long Island has been great for flying so I have not spent as much time in the shop this week but I will bring you up to date with what I did so far.

I’m doing the flaps pretty much the way the plans show. I do plan to use two servos on each side. One for the inboard flap and one for the outboard one. The center flap is just behind the wheel cutout and I will use the tongue design on the plans move that one with the inner flap driving it. As I mentioned I will use G10 hinges in lieu of using aircraft ply tabs. The exception is the inner flap hinge will use an aircraft ply tab as it is fully supported.

Here is the Solidworks geometry so I can get the position of the horn correct.

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Old 08-22-2014, 07:57 AM
  #43  
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I cut out the flap and aileron horns from 3/32” G10 using my small CNC Mill. I used a homemade vacuum plate and then machine down leaving 0.007” material behind so as not to break the vacuum or hurt the vacuum plate. Then it is easy to cut them free using an X-Acto knife.

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Old 08-22-2014, 08:04 AM
  #44  
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I have all the spars in place and cut maple blocks for the landing gear. In an effort to keep the training edge of the ribs straight to allow for a good fit between the wing tips and center section I added a ” x 1/8” balsa to the inside edge of the outboard ribs. I will also add this to the wing tips.

My plan in sheeting is to have the sheet from the center section extend to rib #9 top and bottom. This will be just in the area in-between the spars. I added a 3/16” balsa strip to both sides of rib #9 to give a more gluing surface for the sheeting joint. This should greatly increase the strength of the wing tip joint.

My next task is to locate and mount the wing servos and the flap horns. I will install the aileron horn after it is sheeted and the radius cap strip is in place.

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Old 09-01-2014, 10:58 AM
  #45  
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I decided to move the outer flap servo to be between ribs 9 and 10 so that I don’t have to have my servo hatch where the bottom sheeting of the center section joins the outer wing panel. I had to make a new flap horn for this positon as the original one was too large.



The horn is installed on the flap stringers in line with the servo push rod on both outer wing panels.

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Old 09-01-2014, 10:59 AM
  #46  
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I will be using 6 HS-7985MG Digital Programmable servos in the wing for the flaps and ailerons. They put out about 200 inch/oz of torque and the programming feature will be nice to align all the flaps

I cut out ” x 1/8” aluminum angles 5/16” wide and have 4-40 tapped holes to mount the servo on one side and clearance mounting holes on the other. I used brass tubing segments to in the big rubber holes in the servos. I don't think I will have much vibration to worry about and will not use the rubber mounts that came with the servos.

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Old 09-01-2014, 11:01 AM
  #47  
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Here are a few photos showing the G10 flap hinges and how they will line up. I plan to glue them in place on the wing outer sections after the top sheeting is on. They will interfere with the 3/8” wing washout stick. Actually they will protrude below my work board.

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Old 09-01-2014, 11:03 AM
  #48  
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My plan is to sheet the center of the wing outer panels from rib 9 to the tip leaving the section forward of the spar open until it is joined to the center section. This way I can make a nice joint between ribs 7 and 8 using lots of clamps on the top and bottom.

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Old 09-01-2014, 07:32 PM
  #49  
Chad Veich
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You planning to fully sheet the wing Lou or fabric cover the outer panels per the full size?
Old 09-01-2014, 07:53 PM
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Hi Chad:

I am planning to fully sheet the wings and then simulate covered ribs. i am thinking about using raised ribs over the sheeting, possibly with chart tape or 1/32" thick plywood strips and then using a filler with credit card to simulate fabric concave dips. I'm not really sure yet how I am going to go about it but definitely it will be fully sheeted. I'll have to experiment to see what looks best.

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