mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

For starters: thanks . But I saw how you were doing it and I think yours will look the same.

tmac48

I don't think you realize what I eventually did. I just could not convince myself that it was going to work so I did a modification, will take a pic tomorrow and post it so you can have a laugh on me!! It still stands I dont think that I could have acheived what you have.

tmac48

Mitch this is what I ended up doing, going by your results I have just wasted my time but I'm still not convinced that I would have achieved such a satisfactory result as you ! I have run a small strip of 2mm balsa between each rib.

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

Terry, I see nothing wrong with your approach. As they say - there's more than one way to skin a cat!

Honestly, I had no idea how this part of the design (trailing edge assembly) would turn out but despite my doubts it turned out okay.

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

As you all know, I'm using Balsa USA cloth and Stewart Systems "Eco Bond" for this cover. This is the first time I've tried this stuff and I'm going to go on record and say I LOVE IT. In the following pics you will see that I covered the last little bits and pieces. Some of them I NEVER would've believed I could actually cover with cloth effectively. Well I was wrong. Every single one of the most challenging pieces covered fantastically. Here's how:

I brushed on the Ecobond like always. Then you have to wait for 20 or 30 minutes for it to dry before cover. After about 15 minutes of waiting and staring at the parts I got the idea that it might be a good idea to lay the cloth on the more challenging pieces and get it smoothed out PRIOR to full cure of the glue. Not wet but just a little tacky was the key. This allowed me to smooth all the crazy features with some hold but still move the cloth around to adjust to perfection. Then later after full cure of the Eco Bond I ironed it down (at a reduced heat: I didn't not want any shrinkage since it already fit perfectly). Well that worked great. Look at the wing fairings and imagine how difficult (if not impossible) it would be lay down wrinkle free cloth. But I did. Again: I love this stuff.



The wing fairings and the tail fairing present some incredible challenges for cover. Yet they came out great. Note: I had not shrunk out the wrinkles you may see. They all came out drum tight.

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

Been working on the landing gear legs to get them ready for cover. As designed they have a weird/useless wooden tab that protrudes from the bottom of the struts. I removed it. I also needed to close up the structure in this area (bottom of the struts) so that grass/dirt etc. doesn't find its way inside. The pictures explain it better:

EDIT: Upon further thought I know that JW carefully designed every aspect of this aircraft so I went back a looked at my landing gear photos. It might be possible that the extended piece of wood on the bottom is some kind of "bump stop" for the gear travel. However, I can't see any problem with the sprung gear shaft bumping against the internal stop so I removed the wooden one. Anyway, remove at your peril. . . .



Removed extra tab below tubes

Balsa filler to close the bottom

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

Landing gear legs covered.

tmac48

They look terrific!

tmac48

Mitch,I wonder if you can clarify something for me. I'm a bit concerned about the hand hold on the lower wings, it looks as if I need to add another layer of filler in order to meet the lay of the covering otherwise it appears that there would be a noticeable droop downwards in the covering. The strange thing is that I was supplied with 7 of the cutouts and using 3 per side left one over, was I meant to have more of them?

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

Terry, I don't recall needing any more of these filler pieces but YES you need to make sure they rise to the fall line - even if it requires another piece.

***************NEWS FLASH!!!!!!***************

Okay, so I went out to the shop and counted the layers on the bottom wing: one below the plywood former and two above the plywood former PLUS an extra little filler piece on top, just like you're going to need. That extra one you have will make a handy template for the ones you need to cut out: mine looked to be around 2mm thick.

You lucked out cuz I'm actually covering those very hand holds in a few minutes and once covered I'd never be able to see that detail.

EDIT!! As I said I’m actually covering this area right this minute and I happened to discover something I missed. I only paid attention to the TOP of the hand hold fall line. Well my bottom fall line needs approximately 3+mm of fill too. So instead of covering I’m back to cutting balsa!

JohnHab

My Feedback: (1)

Hello Gents, Backing up a bit what hardware did you guys use to secure the wings to the center section? I can see some small tubes in the wings close to the AL tubes.
That covering looks like the way to go...non toxic.

tmac48

Thanks for your explanation Mitch. Yes agree I'm lucky to have one to use as a template. Do you think that you would be able to post a pic of yours before you cover or have you already covered?

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

John, the wings slide onto the center sections on small aluminum tubes - two per wing (one fore and one aft). After that the only thing holding them on the aircraft are the rigging wires.

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

Here you go, Terry. This is what they look like sanded to the fall line.


Top of wing

Bottom of wing

tmac48

Thank you kindly.

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

Anybody covering one of these giants is going to find out it takes a LOT of cover material. For the record it has taken me 2 "double width" packages and one single width package of Planetex to finish this beast - although I'm waiting for the small package to come in the mail so I can finish the very last thing: my bottom center section.

This pic is the bottom wings. I'm happy with how the hand holds came out.

tmac48

I would think about mid 23 would be a good time for you to take your trip to Australia. Should have everything ready for you by then!! BYO covering material of course!!!

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

Ha ha ha ha!!! That’s a good one Terry. Sadly, when I finish covering this monster I may never want to cover again!!

Yes, I’m glad it’s covered but now I have to fill and paint - and winter has arrived with a vengeance. Not a good time for painting unfortunately.

tmac48

Mitch a good friend of mine owns SOUTHERN ROD AND CUSTOM here in Australia, that is where i paint mine!! You can check him out on FB. Would be the best restoration business world wide.

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

Wow, you are VERY fortunate to have a place like that available to you for your painting needs. I'm green with envy.

I have to turn my dusty/crowded shop in to a makeshift paint booth and it's not a lot of fun. . .

tmac48

Mitch this is how the seat ended up looking.

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

Hey, that's some nice sheetmetal work! Keep the pictures coming, Terry.

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

Haven't had a lot of time for the Bucker, what with Christmas etc. but I did finally finish the covering process. I'd been waiting for the final package of Planetex to arrive and it finally did. As I've said a million times, I love the stuff.



Bottom center section. On to fill/paint. ..

mitchilito

My Feedback: (6)

The first step in finish is filling the weave with Ecobond. It's thinned 33% with water and brushed on with a foam brush. Bright green!

As always with this stuff the almost total lack of fumes/smell is pretty wonderful.

JohnHab

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Mitch, What/how did you pin the cabane struts to the AL fittings with?
Coming along nicely. Thanks again for the build.