World Models 1/3 Super Cub
#376
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RE: World Models 1/3 Super Cub
Piper Super Cub 1:3
Writing this I'm looking back on four years rc experience. I started with foamies and with a teacher-pupil cable to
reduce costs in case of pilot errors. After one year my pilot teacher recommended me to buy myself a PIPER Super
Cub with 141 inches of wing span.
He told me that it is much easier to fly big planes than small ones; bigger planes don't fly so wobbly, can handle
flaws and tougher winds better, flight attitudes are easier to detect and bigger planes can fly slower which makes
the landings a lot easier too. The only thing that is more difficult is a problem located between the ears: bigger
planes cost more and so one tends to be more nervous about flying them.
But after a couple of flights with my pilot teacher on the teacher-pupil cable I felt secure enough to make my first
maiden flight. Since then I have had many enjoyable flights with my PIPER. Only this year I had an accident (my fault)
which is posted here in a crash & rebuild thread.
As in Germany we do have a law that prohibits to fly aircrafts with a fuel engine at less than some 5.000 yards to the
nearest village and as I wanted to fly my PIPER from a nearby meadow I had to opt for an electromotor.
As I wanted to be able to use my PIPER as a towing plane it had to be a very strong motor - the equivalent of a 120 ccm
fuel motor.
Here is my setup:
Wing Span 141 in
Scale: 1 : 3
Weight: 28,6 lbs (ready to fly)
Electromotor: HACKER A 150-10
Engine Power: 8 KW (analog a 120ccm engine)
Controller: Schultze Future XXL-40.300 K
Batteries: 4 x KOKAM 6S 5000 mAh
Servos from HITEC:
2 x HS 5985 MG (flaps)
5 x HS 5969 MG (aileron & tail)
1 x HS 645 MG (tow)
Tow: SIMPROP 1002791
Prop: BIELA trifoil prop 28/12
Meanwhile I do have two aircrafts with gasoline engine. What I like about my PIPER now is that she's ready to
start without refueling (and without the pump off before going home), she starts just with a step on the gas and
she's always clean - without the typical petrol residues. Just put the batteries in, connect them and that's it.
Don't worry - be happy . . .
Recharging batteries lasts longer than refueling a gasoline engine? You have a point there. But with those batteries
I can fly 15 to 20 minutes or tow two saleplanes. And that is all I need with the PIPER. If I want more I go for my other
aircraft with the gasoline engine.
A change to the original kit
As you can see on the picture above the manufacturer prepared the side windows in a way that you can open them to
be able to do whatever you have to do inside the aircraft. That's o.k. when you have her without wings and on a hydraulic
ramp - as on the picture above. But when you have her standing on a moist meadow having to enter her from below the
wings near to the ground, then things tend to get complicated.
So we opened the roof and fabricated a cover out of the excerpt. Now it's quite easy to attend whatever I need to take care of,
without beeing a contortionist - which I'm not being a mitt fifties . . .
Happy landings - Peter
#379
Hi Bart
Ill do it in mm (divide with 25.4 for inches)
Largest width 240mm. And where the bottom of the cylinder will be about 220mm.
Pics of a DLE111 install. This engine is 255mm wide.
- btw the DLE111 is a perfect engine for this plane !!!
Ill do it in mm (divide with 25.4 for inches)
Largest width 240mm. And where the bottom of the cylinder will be about 220mm.
Pics of a DLE111 install. This engine is 255mm wide.
- btw the DLE111 is a perfect engine for this plane !!!
#381
Check out some of my TWM Super Cub videos:
https://www.youtube.com/user/lrdiscoveryII/videos
#382
My Feedback: (2)
Looks like someone just got the measurement you asked for, I'll go ahead and post this anyway. I used and outside caliper right where the cylinders will be, it's 9 and 3/8 th inches wide. My Cub uses a DLE 55 and can take off in less than 10 ft, so you should have more than enough engine. Hopefully your engine will fit inside the cowl.
Dave
Dave
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i'm doing a review build for another website so we're really looking forward to getting started.
#387
Folks, need some advice regarding the WM 1/3 J3 Cub (not the super Cub)
Do you folks think that a Saito 300 twin able to spin a 22x8 prop at 6500 at sea level will be good enough for the 1/3 J3 Cub from the World Models?
In order to reduce the amount of nose weight that may be required, I have moved the servos to just after the cockpit rear window (instead of the provisioned cut out in the tail) and thus hope to keep the overall weight down. Looking to mainly fly from well mowed grass and and puttering around with maybe few sedate Cub like maneuvers thrown in.
Appreciate your thoughts please
Do you folks think that a Saito 300 twin able to spin a 22x8 prop at 6500 at sea level will be good enough for the 1/3 J3 Cub from the World Models?
In order to reduce the amount of nose weight that may be required, I have moved the servos to just after the cockpit rear window (instead of the provisioned cut out in the tail) and thus hope to keep the overall weight down. Looking to mainly fly from well mowed grass and and puttering around with maybe few sedate Cub like maneuvers thrown in.
Appreciate your thoughts please
#388
Folks, need some advice regarding the WM 1/3 J3 Cub (not the super Cub)
Do you folks think that a Saito 300 twin able to spin a 22x8 prop at 6500 at sea level will be good enough for the 1/3 J3 Cub from the World Models?
In order to reduce the amount of nose weight that may be required, I have moved the servos to just after the cockpit rear window (instead of the provisioned cut out in the tail) and thus hope to keep the overall weight down. Looking to mainly fly from well mowed grass and and puttering around with maybe few sedate Cub like maneuvers thrown in.
Appreciate your thoughts please
Do you folks think that a Saito 300 twin able to spin a 22x8 prop at 6500 at sea level will be good enough for the 1/3 J3 Cub from the World Models?
In order to reduce the amount of nose weight that may be required, I have moved the servos to just after the cockpit rear window (instead of the provisioned cut out in the tail) and thus hope to keep the overall weight down. Looking to mainly fly from well mowed grass and and puttering around with maybe few sedate Cub like maneuvers thrown in.
Appreciate your thoughts please
Appreciate any help
Thank you
#389
Folks, need some advice regarding the WM 1/3 J3 Cub (not the super Cub)
Do you folks think that a Saito 300 twin able to spin a 22x8 prop at 6500 at sea level will be good enough for the 1/3 J3 Cub from the World Models?
In order to reduce the amount of nose weight that may be required, I have moved the servos to just after the cockpit rear window (instead of the provisioned cut out in the tail) and thus hope to keep the overall weight down. Looking to mainly fly from well mowed grass and and puttering around with maybe few sedate Cub like maneuvers thrown in.
Appreciate your thoughts please
Do you folks think that a Saito 300 twin able to spin a 22x8 prop at 6500 at sea level will be good enough for the 1/3 J3 Cub from the World Models?
In order to reduce the amount of nose weight that may be required, I have moved the servos to just after the cockpit rear window (instead of the provisioned cut out in the tail) and thus hope to keep the overall weight down. Looking to mainly fly from well mowed grass and and puttering around with maybe few sedate Cub like maneuvers thrown in.
Appreciate your thoughts please
Looks a bit underpowered !
But it will fly. The 1/3 Piper can be a slow flyer with great control
Last edited by ClausBN; 09-19-2022 at 04:42 AM.