tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

Flew my WM 1/3 super cub yesterday for the first time. Flew fine with the Fuji 64A. Does loops from level flight, rolls, unlimited inverted, etc. I climbed very very high a couple of times and did some spins for a very long distance. The plane recovers very nicely from a spin and the size of this thing make the spins look good. Does not have unlimited verticle and I did not want it. It looks more realistic to pull into the verticle and climb until it can climb no more and then give it full left or right rudder to wing it over with smoke pouring out of it. Really floats when trying to land however. I don't know how you guys with big engines get them to come down without killing the engine. The Fuji 64A ran great with no problems at all. It started easily every time with the spring starter. Now I have to get some graphics on it to dress it up a little.

Later

sodbuster 1

how'd you like the quality of the build and hardware?
Still have my eyes on the Clipped version but don't want to spend $700 for something so-so

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

I did not use any of their hardware. Quality is ho hum. If I had to do it again I would have put the money towards something else. I don't know what else but if I crashed this one I would not replace it.

Whymee

My Feedback: (13)

I just picked up my WM Super Cub last night from the J&C Hobbies in Pittsburgh. ( I am in WV). Heck of a big box. Did not have time to check contents, but the box has no apparent damage to the exterior. Greyhound did a good job!

Proposed engine is a G-62, hitec 5645's all around & a 5955 on rudder.

Looks like a fun build. [sm=teeth_smile.gif]

Stan

WV

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

These are the 7 inch wheels that I used on the gear. Part number 5606. http://www.mecoa.com/cb/wheels.htm
The G62 will fly this airplane without any problem. You will have to add a little weight onto the firewall to get it to balance. I made the engine standoff out of plywood to add some and a steel weight under the standoff. Plenty of room to work in the engine area.
Good luck with the assembly.

Whymee

My Feedback: (13)

Could some one post a pic of the installed cowl? I am having fits trying to mock up my motor install (G62). Am trying to get the cowl to fit before I mount the 62. My cowl seems too big where it meets the fuse and it does not want to fit flush.

And I thought this was going to be a fun build! [X(]


Blue Skies

Stan

WV

badedge540

My Feedback: (22)

sweet

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

It Only attaches top and bottom not on the sides....And it fits very close to the windshield.

Great Airplane, the hardware is suspect, however.

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

Hi all, I bailed on this thread a long time ago. Stopped flying planes and went to helis due to a cataract lst year. So the cataract was removed, lenses installed glasses and 20/17[X(]. I read this all over and one guy had a 3w twin. So you think the G62 is minimum, enough?

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

The hardware stinks on most planes. I've never used much of it on any plane of mine. No great loss. You canjust make it a better plane. On my WM Midget, I took the slot the elevator and rudder were in. Widened it and install duealelevators with the rudder in the middle.Real solid. With the size of this cub, should be screaming for mods

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

Good luck with your eyes retired Army Aviator. Air Cav? You won't have any trouble seeing this monster in the air. My son is a Navigator in the Air Force. He is leaving again this weekend for the middle east.
The G62 has plenty of power for this airplane. I am flying mine with a Fuji 64A. The Fuji 64A is a little heavier than the G62 and has more H.P.. I would recommend using the spring starter that is available for this engine for ease of starting. I use one on mine. Or if you really want to get lazy you can get the on board electric starter for this engine from Fuji and take all of the work out of starting. The added weight for this plane would hardly be noticed. More than enough power. I am changing from a 22x10 prop to a 23x8 prop to slow it down a little on landing. The instructions call for an 80 size engine. I think they did that to get the plane to balance properly. With an 80 twin however, the cylinders will be sticking out the sides of the cowl. Not very much though.

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

If switching props doesn't work, try making a bit more of a shallow approach to slow it down. Works for me on some of my speed type planes.

Whymee

My Feedback: (13)

I have started my build on the WM 1/3 Super Cub. Here are some random thoughts...


After opening up the box and inspecting various pieces parts I found no damage. That was a relief. I have seen how some Greyhound employees treat baggage. It is not pretty...

The covering was pretty much wrinkle free. Some if the edges around the windows etc. are loose but that is not a biggie. An iron makes short work of the builders lack of detail. WM Toughlon covering is not to bad. Shines somewhere in between Monokote & Ultracote. So far it shrinks when I need it to and sticks when I apply heat.

All laser cut parts. Can't complain there. Looks to be a tough plane. Time will tell.

Landing gear seems to be stout enough. I did contact William Wallace (via e mail) about making me a set of gear. Let me be kind by saying Willy takes 2 weeks to get back to you. And he wants me to send a check. Forget that. I do not do business with anybody that does not accept Paypal or a CC. I have been burned before. Never again.

Replaced the wheels with Dubro 6' fatties. Much nicer look.

The tailwheel mount plate on the bottom of the fuse is not long enough. Even with the stock tailwheel assy. only 1 of the 3 screws go into the ply plate. I epoxied an additional plate to the bottom. The tailwheel assy. is something to behold. A wonderful arrangement of springs, bolts & plastic. Its also heavy. Ohio Superstar got the nod as a replacement. Its not scale, but it is lighter.

The slot in the fuse that holds the horizional stab. was wonderfully level with the wing tubes. My only gripe about the method of attachment is that after you slid the hor. stab in place there was some space between the upper joint (at the front half only). It was less than a 1/16th.

All servo cutouts have been perfectly sized. A pleasant surprise. (Hitec 5645's)

The hardware that I have fondled so far is not of bad quality. As a matter of fact I was surprised to find bearings on all the control parts. WM even included the servo arms with bearings. A nice touch... The push rods need reinforcement. I dont have a carbon rod like someone suggested. I replaced with carbon arrow shafts, Rocket city, Dubro and H9 hardware. All because I did not have the correct size carbon rod in my inventory. LHS is 42 mi. round trip. 'Nuff said.

The worse part of the whole build so far (I have not started on the wings yet) is the mounting of the cowl. I tried to fit the cowl to the fuse with no motor, to get an idea of where the cowl wants to be placed. Let me make a long story short by saying that the cowl did not let me know. I am going to have to force her into submission. It is not going to be a pretty sight after it is done. Its too bad that the cowl is so far off. I take pride in my fit & finish. This cowl is not going to be up to my usual high standards. Shame on WM for the fit of this cowl. [:@]

I did call Steve at Airborne & he said the hub to firewall was 7.75". I mounted my G-62 at that measurement. I have not tried to mount the cowl. Maybe I will fly it without a cowl? It might be prettier... LOL

My Power Expander fits nicely on the provided plate. It sure is roomy in there! M1 (A123) cells will power this bird. I will make the plate removable so I can access the fuel tank (not installed) as needed.

A quick tip. I have been using Tygon fuel line for years. It will harden with age. A better alternative is Hayes Fuel line. Good for glow, gas, smoke & kerosene. Not suppose to harden either. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK824&P=ML I am hoping that it will not be too small an ID. I will report later on this.

That about all I have to report at this time. Sorry I was so long winded. Part 2 to follow as I progress.

I almost forgot: I can't stand the stripes on this plane. They do not line up with the red covering that goes across the bottom of the fuse. I pulled off the 2 stripes on the rudder. I am contemplating pulling more stripes off the fuse and either relocating them or doing away completely. But that is a story for a later date...

As always comments, questions , raves & rants always welcome!

Blue Skies,

Stan
WV

ROGER RUSSELL

My Feedback: (12)

I have the YELLOW 1/3rd scale CUB not the SUPER,.............but............

I have a G62 on it for power which is plenty............would be nice to have bigger IF you want to hang it, etc...................

I too have the Wallace scale J3 gear, he does take a LLLLOOONNNNGGGGG time to reply, etc.................but they are NICE and look good on the plane, and when doing touch and goes seeing the gear flex with the bungee chord gear is neat to see.

The stock gear on mine started to come UNTWINED and I needed to replace anyway.

Whymee

My Feedback: (13)

I was wondering...

Has anybody tinted the side or the front windshield?

Spray on? Rit dye method? I wonder...

I think it would look good. Comments?

Stan
WV

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

The cowl is OK, just don' t attach the sides....it only attaches top and bottom. The G62 prop hub may not fit through the hole, but you can open it up some. ...

The control horns are OK, nicely shrouded...but all the wood screws for the gear, and the strut attachment hardare needs replacing with black hex head 4mm.

The thrread inserts in the wings are of good quality, I inspected them during the rebuild. Solid, and solid hard points.

The spring starter is only good for one thing, added weight. And a G-62 is going to need it up front. My 3w 106 balanced it without any weight, the 62 is lighter.

But, that sping starter scares me, so whenever I use a G62, it has a CH Jump-start on it. It fires at a retarded spark with an outboard battery. After is lumping along nice and mellow, hit the switch and it is on the Magneto at full power and the correct timing.

It is so mellow to start this way that it has to be seen to understand.

You can leave off the spring and save a pound with it , also. But, in this case, you need weight as far forward as possible.

Anyways, yes the stripes are poor. Mine were gone after the thrid flight, anyways. I like my new scheme. I am looking for 8inch Bush style inflatables. The 6's look a little small.

Whymee

My Feedback: (13)

The spring starter is only good for one thing, added weight. And a G-62 is going to need it up front.

Agreed. And I will use one, if only for the weight.




I am looking for 8inch Bush style inflatables. The 6's look a little small.

When you find a set let me know. I like the "bush" look.

I do like your scheme. I have been known to rip off the covering & start fresh...

Blue Skies

Stan
WV

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

Remember these 7" smooth wheels from Mecoa. http://www.mecoa.com/cb/wheels.htm They have some bounce to them which makes for soft landings. And the price is right. I have yet to see an 8" tire. I have looked until I am blue in the face for larger wheels but have had no success. I have seen site that they taken hand truck wheels and shaved them bald but I think that is a bit to heavy a wheel for my use, and they would be hard with no bounce.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

LOL.


That is exactly what I was thinking of doing!!!!!

Whymee

My Feedback: (13)

I to am in search of bigger "tundra" tires. CK these links out....

http://www.wheeleez.com/

Peeps before us are in search of the same thing:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=599972


Still searching...

Stan

WV

Whymee

My Feedback: (13)

This is my first time trying to make a latch for a door. For the life of me I cannot figure out a reasonable way to do this. [>:] The plans show some plastic piece & a bolt or two, but it looks greek to me.

Anybody have a good method? Maybe there is a pre-built latch system that would work?

Thanks in advance.

Stan

WV

airbornrc

My Feedback: (9)

For a latch I am going to use rare earth magnets from Radio Shack. One mounted to the lower door and one on the cockpit floor piece with some kind of handle on the outside. If it is too strong then I will replace one magnet with a thumb tack.
Has anyone mounted floats on one of these planes? It looks to me that some structure would be required where the rear struts would mount.

Mark

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

Good idea for the door latch. I just used small socket cap sheet metal screws. Michael's Craft store has lots of sizes of magnets.

bignuts181

Hey there guys I beleive floats for the WM cub are on there way not sure when.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Floats:

https://www.balsastore.com/store/products.php?cat=7

As far a door latch, if you want the scale door handle, Balsa USA has it also.