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Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Old 11-27-2008, 01:48 PM
  #26  
Floopy1
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Madmax,

Thanks for the encouragement! Send some pics of the RV project. I know three guys who have built the real RV-4 from Van's Aircraft. If you can, get a ride in one sometime. Van's Aircraft are amazing airplanes.

I was at the flying field yesterday, and someone had an RV-4, but it was an ARF (wuss!) Still, it looked pretty sexy.

As for taking on a big project like this with little experience, here's what I have to say about that: If you read my posts, I always make it a point to state that I am doing everything deliberately slow. I am scrutinizing every decision, measuring thrice and cutting once, and more than anything, I am relying on others' experience and expertise to guide me through the process. By virtue of the fact that this kit has been around for awhile, there are many builders whom have shared task-specific advice on the forums, to say nothing of people who have read my "blog" and have given me advice directly.

Above all of that, it's only money, right? And if it comes out crooked, then I'll become a better pilot in learning how to manage flying it! Also, if you're anything like me, you love the process of learning new things. You love reasoning out problems and coming up with solutions. You love using your mind creatively and being amazed when your ideas work well.

And to those guys at the club who say this kit is too hard, I ask you this: Did Neil Armstrong have any experience walking on the moon before he did it? No! Did the 1980 U.S. Olympic Hockey team back down when everyone said they couldn't beat the Soviet Union? HECK NO! Did Dick Rutan and Jeana Yeager stay at home when they said no one could fly around the world non-stop? NO WAY!

So toss off that negativity and do whatever you want to do.

One more thing... I got that same advice a few times at the flying field, myself. I asked them how many airplanes they had built. Answer: zero. The best armchair quarterbacks seem to own a lot of ARF's.

-Floop
Old 11-30-2008, 02:12 AM
  #27  
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Happy Thanksgiving!

I don't know about you, but it happens to me every year. I see, I eat, I eat, I eat. I watch some TV, then back to eating. I take a break for a while, go for a vawk, (walk), then eat some more. There's no sense in letting turkey and stuffing lay idle in the fridge when it can be put to better use digesting in my stomach. And so it did. That and the obligatory mashed potatoes, gravy, green bean casserole, sweet potatoes, corn, and dinner rolls. Have you ever experienced a tryptophan-starch buzz? Oh, and what good 'ol American Thanksgiving meal would be complete without that traditional staple of the holiday season, the cranberry log?

I also felt it necessary to sample no less than five dessert items from the calorie conga line. With two new holes punched in my belt, my wife and I headed home with thoughts of glue and balsa dancing in our... well, MY head. Back to work.

How is this for an awesome wife? We were at Lowe's on Black Friday looking for bargains when my wife asked me what tool I would find most useful while building the Corsair. The real question was what tool wouldn't be useful? After about 45 minutes of mulling it over, I decided a belt and disc sander would be ideal. And before I knew it, we were walking out the door with a brand-new Hitachi SB10Y 4x8 inch'er. I've never owned a big boy power tool before. This one is cool. Cast iron frame and table, miter gauge, dust collection bag, the works. All for $120. Not too shabby. I bought a tool stand at Sears for another $25, and before too long, I was sanding perfect angles and miters in balsa stock. Also purchased yesterday was a whole bunch of various types of clamps from Sears and, of all places, Big Lots (I had never been in a Big Lots before). Eat your heart out, Tim Taylor.

Okay, on to business. Here's the latest progress:

I used my new toy to rough-shape each tip of the horizontal stab leading edge. I made a tip template from the plan sheet by tracing the pattern on a sheet of paper, and cutting it out with a hobby knife. I then traced the pattern on the tip of the balsa, switched on the monster, and made some dust. Power tools are the bomb.

I used wood glue to attach the two leading edge halves to the leading edge doubler. The leading edge of the horizontal stab is swept back 9.5 degrees. The sander made easy work of setting the miter to join the two halves perfectly, but setting the clamps against three non-parallel edges proved to be problematic. I used the sander to grind out six 9.5-degree wedges from scrap balsa for use under the clamps to cushion the finish balsa and make the clamping surfaces parallel. The idea worked fine, but it caused the leading edges to drift down the doubler toward the tips (outward from each other) when "lubed" with a layer of glue. I used a t-pin punched through the face of the leading edge (regretting it later when I realized I just punched a hole through the leading edge of my stab) to stop the drifting. It helped a little. Sort of.

After gluing the first half of the leading edge, I was left with a 1/16-inch gap between each half. I fabricated a filler piece to fit between the halves, and it worked very well. I'll sand it smooth when everything cures.

Next, I fabricated the leading edge tips using the sander again. I have to say that these pieces would have been more difficult to manufacture without the sander, as these pieces have one 90-degree angle, one 80.5-degree angle, and one curved side. Try doing that with a #11 blade. I then glued the tips to the leading edge with a very elaborate clamping setup. I used one clamp with articulating pads as a base to push against and used the wedges to oppose each other and expand the space between the clamp pads and the glued tip. (Just see the pics below. It's hard to explain.)

After that, I needed to fabricate another filler piece to take up some space between the stab center (square piece) and the to-be-glued stab trailing edge. In the process of preparing the stab center, I had to sand away more material than planned to true up the edge. I cut and epoxied a 1/8-inch plywood filler to the back of the stab center, which will make the fit absolutely perfect. I know that 1/8-inch seems like a very small amount, but if you calculate the error, you would realize a loss of 3.51 inches of lost surface area on the tail. That's pretty significant to me. I used BB's in baggies to weigh down the assembly on the filler (gravity clamp).

So that's all for today. Tomorrow, I'll install the trailing edge and ribs and sand all surfaces in preparation for skins. I hope you had a great holiday, and I'll see you back here soon. Until then, bye for now.

Today's pics:

1, 2, and 3. Gluing the tips
4. The stab leading edge and center structure
5, 6, and 7. Stab center filler and lots of BB's. Those baggies open up all over the place now and then.
8. Sandy, my new toy.
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Old 11-30-2008, 11:47 AM
  #28  
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Aloha Floop,
Sounds like you had a Great Thanksgiving.
One thing I forgot to mention re the kit- throw away the ABS plastic Cowl set up and buy a fiberglass cowl- I purchased mine from Fiberglass Specialties.
http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/
I took one look at what I recall was a three piece cowl and said "no way"- the TF-20B fiberglass one come with molded cowl flaps and just look and function way better than the stock ABS one. You'll never regret it.
Mark [sm=shades_smile.gif]
Old 12-18-2008, 10:27 PM
  #29  
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Hey Floop,
Haven't heard from you in a while- hope everything going ok?
[sm=shades_smile.gif]
Old 12-21-2008, 05:01 AM
  #30  
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Hey there Floop and everyone else. I'll be watching your build with interest. I'm a very crappy typist, so I'll keep my mouth closed most of the time.

It looks as though you've taken a break from building for the time being. I hope you pick it up soon and work to completion. You were absolutely correct in your first post.... building your plane is MASSIVELY satisfying. Taking a plane you built yourself to the field is a totally different experience compared to taking an ARF to the field. I have nothing against ARFs. I have several ARFs and several models that I built myself. Building is a BIG side to this hobby that many never experience.

I can give you some very basic tips. I'm sure you're already learning many.
1. Sharp exacto blades are a must. Change the blade often. There are also several Exacto razor saw blades that are EXTREMELY helpful. I even use the little aluminum exacto mitre box with the razor saw to cut balsa sticks at a true 90 degrees.

2. Your power sander is an awesome tool. As you've already realized, balsa sands VERY easily, and this tool can turn a 36" balsa stick to dust in 2 seconds flat. This is true especially if you're using the aggressive grit sandpaper that came with the tool. The tool comes with sandpaper that's more appropriate for sanding 2 x 4's. I use mostly 200 grit sandpaper for sanding balsa, 180 works fine too. I have several quality sanding blocks, a sheet edge truing jig much like the one you built, a combination belt/disc sander almost exactly like yours, etc. And I also quickly fabricate smaller sanding tools as required to do the job like wrapping emery cloth around a dowel to sand an inside curve. You really have to be careful sanding.

3. Glues. First of all, only use enough glue to do the job. It's easy to make the weight of plane be 50% glue. Used the lightest glue that'll do the job, epoxy being the heaviest. I have several glues for various purposes. (FYI, I like how you carefully clamp everything. Those will be strong glue joints).

a. 30 minute epoxy - use in high stress areas such as firewall, wing spar, landing gear blocks, horizontal stab to fuse, vertical fin to fuse. Use for gluing hardwood to hardwood or balsa to hardwood. FYI - 30 minute epoxy is not fully cured in 30 minutes. It cures pretty hard in 30 minutes, but it gains strength for several hours thereafter. Cleanup with alcohol.

b. 15 minute and 6 minute epoxy - use for lower stress areas when faster curing is desirable. ex: if a servo tray is locked in place by design, then I'll use 6 minute epoxy to glue it.

c. Gorilla (polyurethane) glue - Light weight but slow cure (12- 24 hrs). Expands and can fill Gaps. Nearly as strong as 30 minute epoxy. Lots of working time. Spread very thin. Don't let it touch ANYTHING where you don't want it. Very difficult cleanup (acetone or mineral spirits).

note: Epoxy glues can be thinned with alcohol (50-50). This is especially useful for spreading a thin layer when sealing the engine compartment or when sheeting foam core wings or when glassing sheeting.

d. CA Glue - Brilliant stuff! Comes in 3 basic types, thick, medium, and thin. I use mostly thin. Nearly INSTANT cure. Very light weight. If you use thin CA, get a capillary applicator tip. Ventilation required (produces acrid smoke). Best glue for gluing soft balsa to soft balsa. (Disclaimer - even furniture makers are now using CA to glue hard woods. They use med or thick CA. They spread CA on one part and spray "Kicker" on the mating part. When the two are clamped together, they are nearly instantly and permanently bonded. I have not tried this technique and therefore can't vouch for it. If you want to try it, test it until you are satisfied it will work). Special "foam compatible" CA must be used if gluing foam.

e. Tightbond wood glue (yellow carpenter's glue)- slow cure. Strong when clamped. Lots or working time. Most easily sanded of all options. Not too heavy. cleanup with water.

f. others - canopy glue, rubber cement, etc.

note: Any glued area is harder than surrounding soft balsa. If you sand a glue joint, you can accidentally excavate all the balsa around the glued area while barely affecting the harder glue. For instance, thin CA wicks into the wood and makes soft balsa very hard and much more difficult to sand. Good sanding blocks and technique are essential.

note: I think the biggest differences between your first build and subsequent builds is in the amount of glue used and the types of glues used. My first plane was HEAVY with glue. I used epoxy everywhere and lots of it. I didn't trust the glue nor the design of the plane to stay together. The 2nd difference is sanding technique. Take your time and use the least aggressive sandpaper grit practical. 3rd biggest difference is in the fit of parts I had to cut myself. If parts fit poorly, no amount of glue will make the joint strong. A big gap filled by glue, even 30 minute epoxy, is not going to be strong. Conversely, tight fitting joints will be strong with a tiny amount of glue.

Tip - Even when I'm using epoxy or polyurethane glue, after I spread the glue and position the parts, I'll often tack the parts with thin CA in a few spots to hold them in alignment while I clamp the assembly. The CA will hold well enough to keep things from moving on me.

4. Clamps - Soft balsa is easily marred. I noticed some of the clamps in your photos are much too powerful. When clamping, the goal is only to hold the parts together. Extreme force is not necessary. I use a variety of clamps (all smaller than yours). Rubber bands (many different sizes), weights, small plastic "bar" clamps etc. And you're correct, sometimes you have to be creative.

5. Creativity! To me, that's a lot of the fun of it. Figuring out your own solutions to problems is fun for me. I laughed at your first sheet cutting attempts. We've probably ALL tried that stuff. I know I did. You're a full fledged member of the club.

Anyway, I hope some of that info helps. I'd like to hear others ideas about the basics. What we find out is, no matter how many planes we've built, we're still always learning.

Tom
Old 12-23-2008, 04:21 AM
  #31  
Floopy1
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Hello, all, and greetings from the bowels of busyness!

First of all, I want to thank Mark and Tom for expressing concern over my apparent lack of presence these last few weeks. I assure you that my absence is purely career-oriented. My company has scheduled me for a marathon of activity over the past and next few weeks, and so, reluctantly and depressingly, I had to put the Corsair on hold for a while. It's too bad that the material is so delicate or else I would be packing bundles of balsa and CA in my luggage (in no more than 3.4-ounce bottles to please the TSA), and have this thing built in no time.

During one precious day off in Atlanta, I found the time to go flying and managed to smack my Yak nose-first into a light pole... the only obstacle taller than four feet within about one square mile. How's that for aim? I don't think I could do that again if I tried. And don't think my confidence wasn't shaken to its absolute limits at the prospect of flying the Corsair some day in the vicinity of that very pole. I named it "Monokote Tower," after having wrapped it in its namesake. (That was, of course, after I suggested a few other more colorful monikers.)

But in the aftermath of my colossal blunder and altimetric miscalculation, I decided to move on in life and seek mental recovery from this catastrophe. And the vehicle to take me on that road is the Hobby Lobby Super Dimona 2400 Powered Glider (*gulp*) ARF.

Yeah, that's right. I said ARF. Shoot me.

I need something to give me closure from the Yak incident, and this is it. It needs some modification, but I got it in the mail a few days ago, and it's really purdy.

Okay, I need to get some sleep. Look for Corsair progress and the new Dimona pics in my next post. Until then, bye for now!

Click here to see the latest recruit for the armada:
[link]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=541240&[/link]

-Floop
Old 01-27-2009, 04:53 AM
  #32  
Floopy1
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Greetings, everyone!

No, I didn't fall into a deep hole. No, I didn't fly a heavy airplane into myself. I've just had to put the Corsair on the back burner for a little while. But after several weeks of work-induced exile, I have finally found some spare time to continue construction. And let me tell you, it isn't easy to just jump back onto that balsa saddle. It's amazing how a skill you learned a few weeks earlier is so difficult to re-master. I found myself having to think through the same tasks I was executing almost flawlessly, before. But nevertheless, I found my bearings and am chuggin' along again.

Well, maybe not chugging. Here's what I've done:

After finishing up the horizontal stab internal structure, sheeting the top and bottom proved to be an interesting endeavor, to say the least. To make a long story short, one sheet is glued with wood glue, the other with thick CA. And I don't think I have to say that a very large blob of thick CA gives off enough fumes to make even the neighbors in the next county see things that aren't there. Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffing glue. (For the record... that's just a line from a movie. Two gold stars to the reader who can tell me which.)

So I thought I was onto something when I started using medium CA to glue the ribs of the elevators to the elevator centers. The elevators of the Corsair are made from a die-cut balsa panel glued to a grooved shaped balsa stick as the main internal structure, with balsa ribs bonded to the top and bottom to give the surface rigidity. I started the left elevator with medium CA, finding out very quickly that it is great at sticking things together, but lousy at flowing into a joint. The medium CA likes to bead out of a joint, thereby making it almost impossible to glue a rib in the 90-degree corner that has a CA bead bulging out. When the CA finally cured, I used a dremel tool to grind out the bead in certain areas. What a pain in the azimuth. Yeah, I know... use thin CA for that kind of thing. Sure, why didn't you tell me that in the first place? The second elevator was flawless. Thin CA is great stuff.

Boy, is that belt and disc sander a fantastic tool! If you've never built an airplane before, or anything out of wood for that matter, how do you think you would sand a precise 6.5-degree bevel on the end of a wood stick? Sure, you could eyeball it... if you want a crooked, rickety airplane. Parts that don't EXACTLY fit together leaves gaps that CA or resin simply cannot fill and create a reliable joint. Otherwise, why don't you just forge an airplane out of a billet of hardened cyanoacrylate? (Believe me, I've tried. My fingers are still stuck together. I'm typing with my nose.)

So, 6 and a half degrees? No problem. 7.5? Kiddy stuff. And if you want to throw away your razor plane, feel free... you'll need it for... well, you probably won't need it ever again except for maybe the oddball stubborn, hard-to-reach area. Let's hope that never happens.

After gluing the balance tab and tips to the elevator surfaces, the manual directs you to sand the ribs into an airfoil shape, and the tips to follow the compound elliptical contour of the stab leading edge. I have to admit that I was putting off these tasks for the longest time because I was scared to death to start shaving material off of those perfectly geometric components. This isn't just cutting and gluing, anymore. This is where true craftsmanship comes into play. So here goes nothing.

I started shaping the leading edge of the stab with the Great Planes rounded-edge sanding bar. Although it didn't form the exact shape as on the plan, it gives you a good starting-off point for the final aerodynamic leading edge. Little by little, constantly measuring reference points on the plan and on the stab, I was able to to forge a great edge; symmetrical and smooth. Now onto the elevators.

I have to say that shaping the elevators was not all that difficult, either. If you want to know my secret, it is to just take your time and remove small amounts of material. Also, keep vacuuming up the balsa dust so you can see your exact progress (and to keep your wife happy. We can't all have a maximum-security man cave.).

That's really all I've had time for these past few weeks. Not much progress, I know, but if you had the month I did, you'd have needed some "me" days, too.

That's all for now. I'll start the vertical stab and rudder next, so stay tuned for more exciting updates! So until next time, bye for now!

This week's pics:

1. Horizontal stab structure completed
2. Stab skins being glued and clamped with many heavy books. I find James Bradley and Tolstoy perfect for weighing down balsa.
3. Leading edge, tips, and ribs shaped.
4. Tip close-up. Just about there, with just a smidge left to sand. Not bad for an amateur.
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:00 PM
  #33  
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Looking very good so far!
Old 02-03-2009, 01:47 AM
  #34  
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Dude! That'll fly! Looking excellent! Glad to see you're back at it. And no need to apologize for taking a little time off. That's how it goes for most of us. Take your sweet time.

Bad time to stop sniffing glue? Lloyd Bridges, "Airplane". Of course!

Hitting poles? I've done it 3-TIMES at 3 different fields! 1st time was maiden flight of my first plane. I never saw that sapling until my plane suddenly cartwheeled into the ground on final approach. Total flying time, 35 seconds. 2nd time, I painstakingly built my first warbird, a 72" Hellcat. On maiden flight, raised the gear and both main wheels fell off. Forgot that little detail about tightening the set screws on the collets. Sheesh. Was attempting a wheels up landing in the grass, and was so intensely focused on the plane that I never saw the pole we leave in the field to mark the spot where we place our racing pylons. Cartwheel... yadda yadda yadda. Actually only resulted in a big gash in the right hand leading edge. Repaired. 3rd time, my little brother was up for a visit. Took him to a school parking lot to show off with a 3-D electric. Was throwing it all over the place. This time, I could clearly see the light pole I hit. Totally misjudged distance. Airframe is a write off.

Tom

ps: your writing is very entertaining! LOL Looking forward to the next installment.
Old 06-22-2010, 01:32 AM
  #35  
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

HI ALL,,,, I AM WORKING ON THE SAME GIANT SCALE CORSAIR TOO ! AND THE WIFE LET ME SET UP IN THE LIVING ROOM IN FRONT OF THE FIRE PLACE,,, IN THE CORNER. I JUST FINISHED THE HORIZONTAL STAB AND JUST FINISHED GLUING THE RIBS ONTO THE ELEVATORS. LOOKS LIKE I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE THAT BUILT THE HORIZONTAL STAB AND ELEVATOR FIRST AND AM THEN GOING BACK TO DO THE VERTICAL STAB AND RUDDER,,, JUST MAKES SENSE TO ME SINCE I HAVE THE PLAN FOR THE H STAB AND ELEVATOR RIGHT THERE ON THE BUILDING BOARD. I STILL HAVE TO DO THE BALANCE TABS ON THE ELEVATOR,, PERHAPS TOMORROW IF NOTHING ELSE POPS UP.
AS FOR A BUILDING BOARD, I AM USING A 48 BY 24 SHELVING BOARD,, FORGET THE NAME NOW,,, IT IS PRESS BOARD COVERED IN THE THIN SHEETING OF LAMINATE STUFF. MAKES FOR A VERY HARD AND FLAT SURFACE. THEN I HAVE THE 48 BY 16 BALSA BUILDING BOARD ON TOP OF THAT WITH THE PLANS ON TOP OF THAT WITH THE PLAN COVERING CLEAR STUFF OVER THE PLANS. I WISH I KNEW HOW TO ADD THE PICTURES TO MY POSTS. I HAVE TO GO OUTSIDE TO DO ANY SERIOUS SANDING ON THE PARTS.
I HAVE BUILT TWO SIXTY SIZE CORSAIRS BEFORE BY TOP FLITE. SO I KNOW A LITTLE OF WHAT I AM GETTING INTO. BUT STILL IT LOOKS A LITTLE DAUNTING. THE FIRST ONE I COVERED TO THICK IN FIBERGLASS AND IT WAS TOO HEAVY, AND SNAPPED ROLLED ON TAKE OFF AFTER GETTING OUT OF GROUND EFFECT.
THE SECOND ONE I HAD FOR 25 YEARS UNTIL I PUT A FUTABA RADIO IN IT,,, THE TRANSMITTER HAD AN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM IN IT,, LOST 3 PLANES BEFORE FUTABA FINALLY REPLACED THE TRANSMITTER. HAVEN'T LOST ANY SINCE THEN IN OVER A YEAR,,, EXCEPT FOR AN F-16 I HAD GOING WIDE OPEN TOO FAR AWAY TO SEE IT ROLL OVER BEFORE I LOST MY FIX ON IT,,, IT WAS JUST TOO SMALL, TOO FAST AND TOO FAR AWAY. THOSE SMALL EDF POWERED JETS ARE QUICK!
I CURRENTLY HAVE BEEN FLYING A SIXTY SIZE H 9 CORSAIR WITH ELEC MOTOR,,, FLIES GREAT. ( I AM NOW ALL ELEC. HAVE THE HANGER 9 CORSAIR,WITH A 120 SIZE EQUIVALENT MOTOR, SPITFIRE WITH E FLITE POWER 90, AND BLUENOSE MUSTANG WITH E FLITE POWER 110 EQUIVALENT, ALL SIXTY SIZE. AND OTHER ASSORTED ELECTRICS. I HAVE BEEN FLYING MY H9 CORSAIR A LOT MORE SINCE I TOOK THE SAITO 100 OUT OF IT, AND PUT IN THE ELEC MOTOR. PROBABLY ALREADY HAVE AS MANY OR MORE FLIGHTS AS WITH THE SAITO,,, AND IT STAYS A LOT CLEANER AND THE COVERING DOES NOT COME OFF LIKE THE NITO FUEL WAS DOING TO IT. ALSO, THAT DARN THING WAS TAIL HEAVY ACCORDING TO THE HANGER 9 MANUAL,, I MOVED THE CG ABOUT AN INCH FORWARD AND NOW IT FLIES LIKE A NEW PLANE. EVERYONE USED TO PICK ON ME ABOUT MY BAD LANDINGS, AND IT WAS THE CG ALL ALONG. IT IS A WONDER I WAS ABLE TO EVEN LAND IT AT ALL BEFORE!
ALSO, I AM GOING TO TRY TO PUT A BIG ELECTRIC MOTOR IN THIS THING. I HAVE BEEN LOOKING AT A 60 TO 80 CC EQUIVALENT ELECTRIC MOTOR.
ALREADY HAVE THE ROBART RETRACTS, COCKPIT SERVOS, AND OTHER GOODIES TOWER HOBBIES SUGGESTS TO GO WITH IT,,, AND GOT 150 BUCKS OFF IN COUPONS AND FREE SHIPPING! TOLD THE WIFE THE GOODIES WERE FOR MY FATHER'S DAY PRESENT TO MYSELF,, DID NOT GO OVER THAT WELL,, I AM STILL NOT SURE ON HOW TO COVER THIS THING. WISH I COULD DO THE FOLDING WING THING,, BUT, ALREADY HAVE CLOSE TO A GRAND IN THIS THING ALREADY, AND NOT SURE I COULD JUSTIFY SPENDING ANYMORE TO DO THAT.
GOSH,IT IS 2:30AM,, WILL BE GETTING A LATE START ON THE ELEVATORS TOMORROW,,, HAVE FUN FLOOPY,,, DAY


Old 06-22-2010, 04:28 AM
  #36  
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Hello Pug!
It sounds like you've been having a great deal of fun!
I would be very interested in an electric Corsair. What motor? What ESC? What battery combination?
What weight? What cost?
I chose gas as the motors were quite reasonable and the fuel is cheap.
Go to Oregon Scale for interest in folding wings.
Whoops! Time for dinner!
Later!
Old 06-22-2010, 09:23 AM
  #37  
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

PLEASE FORGIVE MY CAPS,,, IT IS EASIER FOR ME TO SEE TYPING ON THIS THING. IF ENOUGH OF YOU CAN'T STAND IT , I WILL TRY TO USE LOWER CASE, BUT PLEASE TRY TO OVERLOOK MY PROBLEM,,,

I HAVE BEEN LOOKING AT A TURNIGY 80-100-A-180 KV MOTOR. IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE EQUIVALENT TO A 60-80 CC SIZE GAS MOTOR. I ALREADY HAVE A TURNIGY 200 AMP ESC, AND WOULD BE USING 3 4 CELL 5KMAH PACKS , 40-50C BURST LIPOS IN SERIES FOR 12 CELLS, OR 48 VDC,,, WHICH SHOULD GET AROUND 8650 RPMS.
SOME OTHER PEOPLE HAVE USED LIFE PACKS AT 38 TO 40 VDC USING A 24X10 PROP FOR ABOUT 24 LBS OF THRUST.
WHEN/IF I GET IT, I WILL BE DOING SOME TESTING ON A BENCH SOMEHOW, TO CHECK FOR PROP/THRUST OUTPUT BEFORE I INSTALL. I MAY HAVE TO GO WITH SOME BIG AXI OR OTHER MOTOR IF I CAN'T GET THE TURNIGY. IT COSTS LESS THAN A HUNDRED. I HAVEN'T LOOKED INTO PRICES ON THE "NAME BRAND" STUFF YET. SCARED TO!
FOLKS HAVE BEEN PUTTING THIS TURNIGY MOTOR ON GO CARTS AND SCOOTERS ! IT HAS THE POWER AT LEAST.
I WOULD LIKE TO USE THE LIFE PACKS, AS THEY ARE LESS APT TO CATCH FIRE AND YOU CAN LEAVE THEM IN THE PLANE TO CHARGE. HEAVIER, AND LESS VDC, BUT YOU CAN CHARGE FASTER AND LEAVE THEM IN THE PLANE. I KNOW A GUY THAT HAS SOME LIFE (DEWALT POWER TOOL BATTERIES) INSTALLED IN A LARGE WWI BIPLANE THAT HAS BEEN USING THE SAME BATTERIES FOR YEARS. KEEPS THEM IS THE PLANE AND CHARGES WITH NO PROBLEMS.
ENOUGH LIFE BATTERIES WOULD COST ABOUT 300 BUCKS,,, BUT MAY BE THE WAY TO GO.
THE LIPO BATTERIES ARE ABOUT 60 BUCKS EACH. 3 PACKS WOULD BE 180 BUCKS. I ALREADY HAVE THOSE ON HAND,,, WHAT A DECISION TO MAKE. STILL CHEAPER THAN A 1500 DOLLAR GAS MOTOR. NO WORRY STARTING, NO MESS, NO ENGINE OUTS TO WORRY WITH.

I LOVE THE SIXTY SIZE ELEC I HAVE. WISH I HAD THE POWER 90 IN IT. IT WOULD PROBABLY RIP THE WINGS OFF THOUGH! I WISH I COULD PUT A VIDEO OF MY H-9 CORSAIR, OR HANGER 9 SPITFIRE WITH THE E FLITE POWER 90 MOTOR. IT WOULD MAKE A BELIEVER OUT OF YOU, OR MY FRIENDS H-9 60 SIZE MARIE MUSTANG,, EVERY ONE AT THE FIELD LIKES TO WATCH HIM FLY THAT, IT SCREAMS! THERE WAS ANOTHER FELLOW THERE ONE DAY WITH A TOP FLITE 60 SIZE MUSTANG AND A DIFFERENT MOTOR I DID NOT REMEMBER, AND IT WAS FASTER THAN MY FRIENDS MUSTANG! HAD A HIGHER KV MOTOR, BUT IT DID NOT SOUND AS GOOD AS MY FRIENDS,, THE HIGHER KV MOTOR USES A SMALLER PROP AND SOUNDS TOO MUCH LIKE A "SMALL ELEC" MY FRIEND AND I USE LARGER PROPS AND THEY SOUND BETTER IN THE AIR.
I HAVE A LOT OF FRIENDS THAT LIKE TO WATCH ME FLY MY SIXTY SIZE CORSAIR. LOTS OF THEM SAY THEY LOVE TO SEE IT FLY. I DO A LOT OF LOW LEVEL "STRAFING" RUNS DOWN THE RUNWAY. AND IT DOES LOOK GOOD WITH THAT BENT WING! IT IS ONE OF THE LONGEST "LIVING" CORSAIRS AT THE FIELD. A FRIEND OF MINE JUST SMACKED HIS ON TAKE OFF THE OTHER DAY. I HAVE BEEN HAVING A LOT OF PROBLEMS WITH THE LANDING GEAR ON THE H-9. THEY ARE REALLY CHEAP. CAN'T WAIT TO SEE HOW THE ROBARTS HOLD UP ON THE GIANT SCALE. (I BROUGHT MY SPITFIRE DOWN LOW AND FAST, AND EVERYONE WAS YELLING LOWER,FASTER, AND I NICKED THE TIP OF THE BLADES,, NOW I TELL THEM, WHEN YOU GET LOWER THAN THAT, THEN COME TALK TO ME ABOUT LOWER AND FASTER)

THE CORSAIR IS HARDER TO FLY THAN MOST, AND THE TAIL HEAVY CG POINT IN THE H-9 MANUAL HAS DOESN'T HELP! SINCE I MOVED THE CG FORWARD AN INCH, IT IS A LOT MORE FUN TO FLY ,,AND LAND!. I WILL DEFINITELY BE STARTING OUT FLYING MY GIANT SCALE TOP FLITE NOSE HEAVY! AND I REALLY WANT TO KEEP THE WEIGHT DOWN ,, GOT TO USE LESS GLUE, ACCORDING TO WHAT THE OTHER FELLOW WAS SAYING,,,,,

HOPE THAT GIVES YOU SOME IDEAS ON THE ELECTRIC POWER,,, DAY
Old 06-22-2010, 09:34 AM
  #38  
1UGLYPUG
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

HI IIIAT,,, I THINK I SEE WHERE IT SHOWS YOU ARE FROM SOMEWHERE IN TN?? I HAVE SOME LAND NEAR SAVANNAH TENN. LOVE TO GO CAMPING NEAR THE PICWICK DAM ON THE TENN RIVER. I AM PLANNING ON GOING OUT THERE AROUND THE MIDDLE OF SEPT. (IF OBAMA DOESN'T PASS CAP AND TAX AND I CAN STILL AFFORD TO FILL UP MY DIESEL SUCKING RV TO MAKE THE TRIP) MAYBE IF YOU ARE CLOSE, OR PLAN ON TAKING A VACATION , WE CAN SAY HELLO! DAY,,,,
Old 06-22-2010, 10:13 PM
  #39  
1UGLYPUG
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

WELL,, I HOPE NO ONE MINDS IF I KEEP UP WITH MY PROGRESS. FLOOPY IS GETTING ME MOTIVATED. I WORKED ON THE ELEVATORS TODAY, AND ONLY HAVE TO SAND AND SHAPE THE TIPS. FLOOPY DID A GREAT JOB,,, HOPE I CAN DO THE SAME. GOING FLYING TOMORROW. WILL SKIP A DAY ON THE WORK TABLE..... DAY,,,
Old 07-07-2010, 11:59 AM
  #40  
1UGLYPUG
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

HI ALL,,, JUST A LITTLE UPDATE. I FINISHED THE RUDDER AND STAB AND ELEV AND STAB ASSEMBLIES. JUST WANTED TO LET YOU KNOW OF A LITTLE MODIFICATION I MADE ON THE RUDDER THAT MAY OR NOT BE USEFUL. I BOUGHT A SMALL DIAMETER CARBON FIBER ROD THAT WILL FIT ALONG EACH SIDE OF THE RUDDER RIGHT WHERE THE RIBS ATTACH TO THE LEADING EDGE PART OF THE ASSEMBLY,,, WHERE THE HINGES ATTACH. I RAN ONE ON EACH SIDE OF THE RUDDER, FROM THE TOP DOWN ABOUT TWO THIRDS OF THE WAY TO STRENGTHEN THE RUDDER. FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT FLY TAIL DRAG TYPE AIRCRAFT OUT THERE, YOU KNOW THAT SOONER OF LATER THERE WILL BE THAT INEVITABLE NOSE OVER,,, AND THE DESIGN OF THE CORSAIR MEANS THAT THE IMPACT WILL HIT RIGHT ON THE RUDDER. I HAVE HAD IT HAPPEN ON THE SIXTY SIZE CORSAIR I HAVE, AND I JUST FINISHED REBUILDING THE ENTIRE VERTICAL STAB AND RUDDER. WISH I HAD THOUGHT OF REINFORCING THE RUDDER ON THAT ONE WITH SOME CARBON FIBER INSTEAD OF JUST SOME EXTRA BALSA.
I AM SURE THIS CARBON FIBER RODS I PUT IN THERE WILL REALLY BEEF UP THE STRENGTH OF THE RUDDER WITHOUT ADDING A LOT OF WEIGHT, AND PREPARE ME FOR THAT INEVITABLE HOLE ON THE RUNWAY LURKING OUT THERE SOMEWHERE IN THE HOPEFULLY NEAR FUTURE (HOPING FOR THIS YEAR OF COMPLETION) JUST WAITING TO DAMAGE MY POOR RUDDER. I AM THINKING ABOUT ADDING SOME CARBON FIBER TO THE WING AND LANDING GEAR AREA TOO. WILL LET YOU KNOW. DAY,,,,,
Old 07-12-2010, 01:15 PM
  #41  
1UGLYPUG
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

CAN YOU GUYS EXPLAIN, HOW DO I ADD A PHOTO ON HERE?? I THINK I FINALLY ADDED A COUPLE TO MY PHOTO GALLERY,,, BUT DON'T KNOW HOW TO GET THEM ON HERE! HELP! PUG,,,,
Old 07-14-2010, 03:59 PM
  #42  
tonto458
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Hey 1uglypug (and boy are you an ugly sucker, your dog Gizmo is prettier than you) I would like to see you at least fly this one before you crash it. I would like to see some pictures of all of your builds and maybe some video when you get these planes built.

See you at the airfield Saturday

G
Old 07-14-2010, 04:21 PM
  #43  
1UGLYPUG
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

HERE IS MY FIRST ATTEMPT AT A PICTURE,,, DAY
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Old 07-14-2010, 04:49 PM
  #44  
1UGLYPUG
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

HERE IS A PICTURE OF MY 83 IN CESSNA 182 WITH E FLITE POWER 160, 18X12 PROP,, MY SIXTY SIZE CORSAIR, SPITFIRE, AND MUSTANG BLUE NOSE ,, BY HANGER 9, (THE CORSAIR STILL HAS THE SAITO 100 IN IT, BEFORE I WENT ALL ELEC)AND MY WIFE HOLDING MY LITTLE DOG U.P, OR UGLY PUG,,, THE LITTLE BLACK PUG,,, DAY
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:36 PM
  #45  
1UGLYPUG
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

ONE MORE ATTEMPT AT UPLOADING PICTURES. TRIED TO SHOW WHAT I HAVE FINISHED SO FAR. MAYBE I MIGHT FINISH THIS THING THIS YEAR???? LONG WAY TO GO. BTW,,, IS ANYONE STILL LOOKING AT MY PICS, AND UPDATES? I HOPE I HAVEN'T RUINED THE SITE FOR FLOOPY. IS FLOOPY STILL WORKING ON HIS CORSAIR, GIVEN UP,OR ALREADY FINISHED IT???
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Old 07-25-2010, 10:22 PM
  #46  
Hooked-On-RC
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

Dude,
Take it from someone that has built this plane (still not finished) and flown two of them, one with a DA85 and the other with a Zenoah G62 for power. I encourage you, any opportunity you have to remove wood and not sacrfice strength...DO IT. Drill lightening holes anywhere possible...remove added weight. This plane builds heavy, it flies heavy and with some work you can remove several pounds of weight to make it a better balanced and flying model. Even the instructions suggest you will need to add possibly THREE POUNDS of lead to the nose to get it to balance. Lighten the tail feathers especially. Drilling lightening holes in the ply stock, the fuse formers, the wing ribs, the main wing spar, the aileron, elevator and rudder main plates, everywhere possible drill lightening holes. YES it is extra work, but trust me, you will come out with a far better project overall. Not sure what you covering plans are going to be, but if you plan to glass this model, this makes drilling lightening holes even more important. Here are pictures of my tail feathers prior to sheeting the top side...you can see all the lightening holes in the ribs and leading edge etc.

It is a great flying plane, the flaps are finicky but once you get it in the air you will have fun...just remember you have to fly it to the ground...it does not float to earth like some aerobatic planes out there.
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Old 07-25-2010, 11:07 PM
  #47  
1UGLYPUG
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

I really wish I had heard from you sooner, and seen what you did to the tail section!! That is really nice looking work on the removal of the excess weight on the ribs in the horizontal stab. I wish I could remove the skin and drill out mine. I did drill a few holes in the wing main spar. But, I did do a little strengthening at the landing gear area. I glued some hardwood bracing against the spar and the landing gear ribs. I also put a couple of screws through the spar into the wood that the landing gear screw into. I figure that if a hard landing occurs or the planes hits a pot hole, all the force hits that area on the landing gear. If any of that gives way, and it moves, it would crack the whole wing structure. So I decided to add the couple of ounces at those points, since it is forward of the CG point. I circled the screws with red ink to point them out. I also show a couple of pins with rubber bands in the photo that I used to help hold the outer wing to the center section during the joining process. Really helped keeping it all up tight and in place during the process. Now if I can just figure out how to get some weight out of that tail section,,,,
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:38 PM
  #48  
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

HELLO AGAIN FOLKS. I AM GETTING READY TO START SHEETING THE WINGS! BUT, BEFORE I DO, I NEED TO MAKE SURE ABOUT ONE THING. ON THE LEADING EDGE, I WANT TO BE SURE ABOUT SHAPING THE LEADING EDGE. I BELIEVE THE LE IS LEFT AT THE SHAPE IT CAME AS OUT OF THE BOX. THEN THE SHEETING GOES ON, WITH SOME OVERHANG OVER THE FRONT, FROM WHAT I CAN SEE IN THE INSTRUCTION SHEET. THEN IT GETS GLUED ON, AND THEN CUT DOWN TO THE LEADING EDGE, AND THEN SHAPED. IT IS NOT CLEAR IN THE INSTRUCTIONS. ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW FOR SURE??? I AM GOING TO START IN THE MORNING (THURSDAY) . JUMP IN WITH YOUR SUGGESTIONS OR INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW YOU DID IT,,,,, THANKS,,,,, DAY,,,,
Old 11-04-2010, 09:45 PM
  #49  
1UGLYPUG
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

HELLO AGAIN ! I GOT BACK FROM VACATION, AND AFTER SEVERAL LOCAL FLY INS, I FINALLY GOT STARTED ON MY CORSAIR AGAIN! I FINISHED SHEETING THE WINGS AND GOT STARTED ON THE FUSELAGE! I AM ABOUT TO START SHEETING THE TOP SECTIONS, AND WILL ADD SOME PICS TOMORROW, I HOPE. I HAVE TO FIGURE OUT WHERE I AM GOING TO LOCATE THE BATTERIES FOR THE MOTOR. IT WILL REQUIRE A HATCH ON THE TOP, WHICH I HOPE I CAN LINE UP WITH SOME PANEL LINES, SO IT WON'T LOOK SO BAD. THEN I CAN START THE SHEETING. SLEEP FOR NOW, AND BACK AT IT IN THE MORNING.
Old 11-08-2010, 12:24 AM
  #50  
1UGLYPUG
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Default RE: Top Flite F4U Corsair Gold Giant Scale Project

I HOPE THE PICTURES OF THE FUSELAGE LOADED THIS TIME,,, I DON'T REMEMBER HOW I LOADED THEM THE LAST TIME,,,, AH, THEY LOADED. I ALSO HAD A QUESTION ABOUT THE BULKHEAD WHERE THE VERTICAL STAB GOES. IT LOOKED WEAK SO I PUT A COUPLE SMALL PIECES OF PLYWOOD ON THEM TO REINFORCE THEM. I KNOW IT MIGHT HAVE ADDED A LITTLE WEIGHT, BUT, I DON'T WANT IT TO BREAK THERE IF IT SHOULD DO A NOSE OVER IN SOME THICK GRASS OR A POT HOLE ON OUR RUNWAY. WHAT DO YA'LL THINK ABOUT IT??

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