JK13

Really looks great!
Please let us know what you think after the maiden.
Nice photos - Thanks


Joe

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

Anybody put floats on one of these yet?

slpnGIANT

My Feedback: (2)

Mighty sweet Gregg. Wait till ya fly it, its real nice. I'll post some pics of mine as soon as I can.

slpn

cgcrc

Hi camss69:

I just saw your post re floats for the Sport Cub. It will look great with a set of nice floats under her.

In fact, I was about to do the float conversion on the model myself but got tied up on another float build.

The direction I will be going when it comes time for the Sport Cub conversion is through www.seacommander.com
I've dealt with the owner on many previous float projects. Great guy to deal with, very helpful and makes an excellent product that will stand up.

Depending how scale you want to go look at foam core or fiberglass as indicated on his web page.

I went semi scale for a quicker result and have a set of 46" foam core on a (older Hangar 9) 1/4 scale Taylor Craft.
More of a sport float. see attached pic.

If you do the Sport Cub conversion be sure to post some pics.

Regards
Randy

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

I've kind of been looking for something to do on floats, I was looking at the Balsa USA float kits but it looks like this plane would fall in between their two sizes.

I would want the floats to look somewhat scale on the plane.

Thanks for the info about seacommander, I'll keep that in mind.

cgcrc

Hi cmass69;

Agreed, scale floats do look the best. My sport float for the TCraft was a quick fix to get it on floats.

Seacommander has some nice scale floats with the harware for the Sport Cub.
(see attached pic of a 108" Decathlon).

Good luck with the conversion if you go that route.

Regards
Randy

CDB-RAE

Hi all

someone now if the new saito FG-57T can fit in the cowl ?.

thanks

Jichal

I too am wondering the same thing, just ordered my Saito 57cc twin gasser yesterday, should be here this Friday. I plan on stuffing it into the Aeroworks Sport Cub with some cowl mods ;~)

By the way, they are producing a 100cc Carbon Cub SS, prototype to fly in the next 2 weeks. I just talked to the guys at Aeroworks and they plan on having them available mid summer (July or August), it will have a 14' wingspan (168"). I just can't wait til summer though, so, I'm going with the Sport Cub and Saito FG-57T twin cylinder gas engine.

If anyone has stuffed one of these into this model please give us some info.

Thanks!

CDB-RAE

hello jichal

did u receive the saito FG-57?
keep us advised to see what about the cowl mod?
thanks

Jichal

Yes, received the Saito FG57T a few days ago and have mounted it to the firewall of the Aeroworks Sport Cub S2. All went well, considering the numerous problems; like Aeroworks saying the cowl is 9" wide, more like 8.5" on my tape measure, the Saito is 9.1" and measured 9.1", so, to make it fit I had to destroy a some things, like the plywood girdle that supports the cowl and adds rigidity to the opening of the cowl where it attaches to the fuselage; still not enough room. I then got after the cowl with the Dremel, she fits now! I had to make my own bracket to mount to the firewall and engine to get the spacing right, that all went well (for the most part). Hopefully the pics loaded so you can see how she is coming. Also, I added some 8.25" Tundra Tires, awesome fort pics but I think a bit much for weight. I'll fly it with the 6" tires and display it with the 8.25". Can't wait to hit the throttle on this machine. Haven't broken in the engine yet, still waiting for ignition battery pack and gas approved fuel line, as well as, servo arms that are 1 1/4" in length, arrrgh. Pretty solid kit with a few hiccups here and there. Some of the wood quality is marginal, overall, however, 2 thumbs up!

Mike

zdsh13

Do you have any details on the size? 1/3 scale clipped wing or standard J3

Jichal

It is a 40% Carbon Cub (full scale aircraft; see Cub Crafters), the 40% model will have a 14' wingspan (I don't think that is clipped, lol). Again, it isn't a J3, it is a Carbon Cub 40% scale model of the real thing; Carbon Cub. Think of it as the latest greatest "Super Cub" but with modern materials and upgrades.

Mike

zdsh13

Sweet.... based on that I would assume an engine in the 120 - 150 range... and a price tag around $1400ish when it comes out??

I have a WM 1/3 scale super cub (12' WS) and it flies scale with a 3W-78ib2, most power them with a 100CC engine which offers a significant increase in vertical upline

jbarnes

The prototype I saw was similar in size to your 1/3 WM Cub as I have one also. A 150 would be too large for this bird. Its intended for 100cc. Typical Aeroworks everything was top notch on the struts etc. I'm guessing they will have it on display at Joe Nall. Jerry.

kochj

Funny, I didn't see any posts about the 100cc Carbon Cub SS from AW on the net....
I did however, see a pict of it in my MAN magazine....looked nice..

JK13

There is a tread started over in Fly... Giants-

Joe

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

All you Cub guys, or anything vintagey, warbirdy, or just old, come to our fly in
www.ozarkflyers.org

Steve Graham

I'm out of town at the moment and will post some pics later when I get home but I wanted to weigh in with some of my experiences with this plane.

I first finished this plane last fall and sadly it did not survive its maiden. I will not go into all the details here as I still do not know for certain what happened. I will say that I am satisfied with Aeroworks' response and help in getting me going with a new kit. The old one currently resides with a friend who was thrilled with the price and will rebuild it while I watch so that I can add to my skill set in terms of repairs.

I have been quite happy overall with this kit. I wanted to say that first because what follows may sound negative but my intention here is to help others who may be building this ARF and also to ask a couple of questions.

The forward screw on the rudder steering T bar hits the tailwheel mounting spring/bracket as has been previously mentioned. Moving the T bar aft both fouls the geometry of the setup and moves the mounting holes beyond the hardwood block so they are not secure. Filing a groove in the tailwheel spring goes against my better instincts. I decided to leave it rubbing to see how it fares and so far I have noticed no issues in terms of binding. It is possible that having these two pieces in contact will create some stress on the rudder hinges so I will keep an eye on them but wll also try and not land tail first as that is sort of considered bad form anyway.

On my first build I used bolts and lock washers through the backside of the firewall for the engine mounts. My instrument panel was glued in and I did not remove it. This made it extremely difficult to get backing for the bolts in order to torque them properly. My second kit had the instrument panel attached with wood screws and so I removed it and this made access 100% better. I recently learned how to clearance material behind a firewall by coming in from the front with a dremel and inserting a sanding bit from the backside. With this knowledge I cleared out enough material so that I could use T nuts. This made for a much more secure mount. My engine mount template was warped and I fixed it with epoxy and clamps. My engine alignment was not dead perfect but close enough for me.

I used flat and split washers everywhere they would fit on the airframe and landing gear and blue locktight everywhere else and so far after about 8 flights nothing has come loose.

I used the DA 50 and this plane is so overpowered it's silly. I'm at 5500 feet MSL. Can't imagine what it would be like a t sea level. Between the power and wing loading this plane takes off like a 3D foamie. Scale relaxed takeoffs require a very light touch on the throttle and deft rudder work. As soon as the power comes up especially if you have any head wind the tail pops off if your not holding it down with elevator and the nose WILL start to wander so be warned. This is a classic tail dragger that will humble you on takeoff and landing if your rudder skills are not up to par. Alternatively you can just hammer it into the sky and go have fun. 3 Point landings are so slow that even if you ground loop you will likely not drag a wing tip. I'm looking forward to getting up to speed with wheel landings and touch and goes. It's one of the main things I wanted this plane for.

Very surprising was the aerobatic performance. While I have yet to fly the Cub without wind it seems to be a very true flying plane especially for a flat bottomed wing. It only took a few attempts to get a very serviceable slow roll out of it. I really think you could compete IMAC basic and sportsman with this plane and probably get a favorable nod from the judges. I may do up a freestyle routine for it!

The only issue I'm having right now is with the thrust angle. The model required no elevator or aileron trim whatsoever. I needed about 28 clicks of left rudder trim on my 12X for it to feel about right. I'm not completely satisfied I have it right yet especially since I haven't been able to fly without wind. On final I noticed a distinct tendency to yaw RIGHT with power application. These two things lead me to believe I have too much right thrust in the model. Stock DA 50 adaptor used with equal spacers, two on each post and the engine is pretty darn close to true with the cowling. I'm going to play with this a little more this weekend.

Thanks to Aeroworks for what so far is a great product and for the support that Aeroworks is known for.

Steve

slpnGIANT

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Guys,

If you know of anybody needing wings or tail feather parts for a Aeroworks S2 50cc Red & White Cub I have some. Mine spun in from very low altitude and aced the fuse and for a crisp $500 bill for a new one I will not be rebuilding mine. PM me if you need any parts.

Thx Slpngiant

grgfraz

Wow sorry to hear that what happened ?

slpnGIANT

My Feedback: (2)

Mmm just bein stupid like we all do now and again. Basically it was a dare to hover closer to the ground than I had already been hovering and, well, the wind was gusting from 10 to 20 knots and it rolled on to its back, and if you ever spun a cub, you know the rest. My fault all the way. By the way, anybody that thinks this plane is in anyway related to the word 3D, ought to have your frickin head examined. It is not. End of story.

I will keep flying my CMP cub. I put flaps on it when I originally built it with a little DLE 30 in it, flys every bit as good as the S2 does and it cost $200

slpnGIANT

panhndl

My Feedback: (10)

I just purchased this plane from the classifieds section here on RCU. The plane is powered by a Saito 300. Iwatch Jichal's youtube videos of the Balsa USA 1/3 scale landing gear mods. I may have to break down and do the same. It just looks too good and seems to handle too well to pass up.

LL999

I have a Sport Cub to assemble. After reading the posts here the first thing I'm doing is checking for engine alignment. I see that the template is built with right and down thrust. This brings about my first question. If you drill holes perpendicular to the firewall and perpendicular to the spacer block (as shown in the manual w/drillpress) then the bolts will be angled in relation to the front of the mount and the motor mounts will not sit flat on the plate. If you drill the holes all perpendicular to the template, they will be angled through the spacer block and the firewall. The bolt heads won't sit flat on the rear of the firewall but the motor mounts will now be flat on the front of the mount. So my question is; which way would be better or will it matter?

Thanks

JK13

LL999-
Good observations!
I would recommend to drill the holes perpendicular to the angled front surface of the engine mount.
Note: the engine mount locations on the firewall are not correct (even though Aeroworks denies this) and if you want the spinner to be centered on the cowl it is best to temporarily mount/stand the motor (gas or electric) with stand-offs on the engine mount. Stand the fuselage on end, then with the cowl on move the engine mount/motor around until you perfectly center the spinner on the cowl. Mark this location, then drill through the firewall at the same angle using the previously drilled engine mount as a guide.
This will both perfectly center the spinner and the motor will have the proper thrust angles.
Hope this helps - worked perfectly on mine!

Good luck!

Joe

davidj

After 2 1/2 months I finally got the S2 Sport Cub on the wing today. My first impressions are, this ship is a little squirly. Here are the particulars, just short of 24 lbs with a DA 50R and a rear dump canister muffler spinning a 23x8 Xoar prop. The take off rolls are not easy to keep on line as the P factor of the 23" prop over powers the ship and the rudder just makes the rear end swing from one side to the other. The 23" prop is to big and the first landing without a nose high attitude caught the prop on the grass and killed the motor on a touch and go. The standard 50cc 22x8 prop may not work with the standard wheels and I'm wondering if a 22" will work with the tundra tires I have? On the second and third flights I got the elevator comp for the flaps set but I'm carring about 3 degrees of down elevator to keep her on level flight at mid throttle settings. The faster she goes the more she climbs so I need to measure and probably adjust the incedence. I've never had a ship that has too much rudder. On my initial low rate setting I started to wag the tail and then just gave it full rudder at mid throttle speeds and she yawed over and then flipped over inverted???? I repeated this several times with the same results. I also noticed this ship will waggle a lot. Our (my) scale glass slippers will on occasion waggle with the long wings on approach to the runway. On high rates she will lomsavac and twist and rotate just like my old PAU 30% Sukhoi. The engine was on the lean side and I would say she is producing 23 lbs of thrust, based on she was not able to maintain a hover. Crabs are beautiful but the rudder needs to be tamed down some. With full flaps deployed and in a near vertical dive she does speed up to a point which is higher than I wished for. After so many years of flying TD and slope gliders and scale gliders I think my expectations are unreal and I will have to relearn how to slow a power plane. Over all she was fun and has a lot of potential but I'm concerned with the ground handling. The take off rolls were difficult to control as she wanted to take an immediate right turn on throttle and it took a lot of rudder to get her to move left and then she went too much and then she came back right etc etc. I will put a 22x8 on and try again to see if she ground handles better.