TF Spitfire Emod
02-12-2006, 11:46 AM
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TF Spitfire Emod
Hello there
I have returned to the hobby after 30 years and sure things have changed.
I am building the TF spitfire and I am at the fuselage, and I would like to figure out what to put in and what extra room I need to account for . Now the final weight should be around 9lbs give and take a bit. So what system would you recommend on this set up, as I find out there is so many motors out there; enough to confuse any new comers. I think I have understood the motor part around 100W per pound but then batteries power controller I am lost.
Thanks for any infos
Cheers
Patrick
I have returned to the hobby after 30 years and sure things have changed.
I am building the TF spitfire and I am at the fuselage, and I would like to figure out what to put in and what extra room I need to account for . Now the final weight should be around 9lbs give and take a bit. So what system would you recommend on this set up, as I find out there is so many motors out there; enough to confuse any new comers. I think I have understood the motor part around 100W per pound but then batteries power controller I am lost.
Thanks for any infos
Cheers
Patrick
02-24-2006, 03:39 PM
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RE: TF Spitfire Emod
Patrick,
I see that no one has replied to this yet so I'll give it a try. There should be plenty of room in your bird for batteries, which is usually the only thing that goes inside, the rest will go inside the cowl, ie motor and speed controller. I like outrunners, and the AXI 4130/16 is a good match for this size of airplane. If you will do a search for the Hanger 9 60 size P-51 conversion, you should find all of the information you will need to do this one. I think that if you can build some sort of a hatch into the front to access your battery pack it will sure make things easier come charging time. If you use retracts, be sure to account for the location of the air canister. The thing that I see done a lot, is to use a flat battery tray that will give you some front to back sliding room so you can really dial in your CG. I think that the guys are using a 6s Lipoly pack. You will need one that can handle at least 60 Amps continous discharge. If you figure you will usually fly at around half to 3/4 throttle, you will normally use 30 to 40 amps, depending on which prop you choose. Keep is simple for your first conversion, and draw heavily on what everyone else has done. I will gladly offer any advice as you go along.
Good Luck,
Darrell
I see that no one has replied to this yet so I'll give it a try. There should be plenty of room in your bird for batteries, which is usually the only thing that goes inside, the rest will go inside the cowl, ie motor and speed controller. I like outrunners, and the AXI 4130/16 is a good match for this size of airplane. If you will do a search for the Hanger 9 60 size P-51 conversion, you should find all of the information you will need to do this one. I think that if you can build some sort of a hatch into the front to access your battery pack it will sure make things easier come charging time. If you use retracts, be sure to account for the location of the air canister. The thing that I see done a lot, is to use a flat battery tray that will give you some front to back sliding room so you can really dial in your CG. I think that the guys are using a 6s Lipoly pack. You will need one that can handle at least 60 Amps continous discharge. If you figure you will usually fly at around half to 3/4 throttle, you will normally use 30 to 40 amps, depending on which prop you choose. Keep is simple for your first conversion, and draw heavily on what everyone else has done. I will gladly offer any advice as you go along.
Good Luck,
Darrell
02-24-2006, 10:06 PM
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RE: TF Spitfire Emod
Patrick:
Let me tell you of my experience with conversions. It appears that there is alot to learn, and there is, however, the bottom line is most of us use the same hit and miss method of construction that we all use in everyday life. You can buy software, you can read manuals, you be a real information geek, but in the end you are just part of a research and development project, nothing is perfect. You can read post after post from experts and amatures alike all claiming that they have the perfect setup, all you have to do is copy them. I found this to be untrue. Each manufacturer of aircraft kits sells similar kits, but different. There are more than 4 types of 60 size Corsair kits floating around out there, each is different. Many a hobbiest takes the basic kit, ARF or full construction, it doesn't matter, and modifies it to be personal. The exact same kit can be built by one guy and it weighs 10 lbs, another guy ends up with an 8 lb craft, fugure that? It means that the electric power source for each of those kits would have to be different and they certainly would fly different. Don't forget this is a hobby, the fun is in the research, the build, the modification and if lucky, a good flying craft.
Bottom line, Patrick, just do it. Any nitro kit has plenty of room inside for Lipo batteries and an electric motor conversion. Make the plane, weigh it, check out some motors and batteries with a reputable retailer before you buy anything. Most retailers have phone numbers, they give out free info, they have the right kind of experience, it's a good way to start. Stay away from Ebay until you know exactly what you need, and have the money to waste. I don't work for Hobby Lobby, and I don't have any money invested in their company, but, it is a good place to start for information and product. After you get experience, you might be able to shop around and snag a bargain here and there.
Just do it.
Al
Let me tell you of my experience with conversions. It appears that there is alot to learn, and there is, however, the bottom line is most of us use the same hit and miss method of construction that we all use in everyday life. You can buy software, you can read manuals, you be a real information geek, but in the end you are just part of a research and development project, nothing is perfect. You can read post after post from experts and amatures alike all claiming that they have the perfect setup, all you have to do is copy them. I found this to be untrue. Each manufacturer of aircraft kits sells similar kits, but different. There are more than 4 types of 60 size Corsair kits floating around out there, each is different. Many a hobbiest takes the basic kit, ARF or full construction, it doesn't matter, and modifies it to be personal. The exact same kit can be built by one guy and it weighs 10 lbs, another guy ends up with an 8 lb craft, fugure that? It means that the electric power source for each of those kits would have to be different and they certainly would fly different. Don't forget this is a hobby, the fun is in the research, the build, the modification and if lucky, a good flying craft.
Bottom line, Patrick, just do it. Any nitro kit has plenty of room inside for Lipo batteries and an electric motor conversion. Make the plane, weigh it, check out some motors and batteries with a reputable retailer before you buy anything. Most retailers have phone numbers, they give out free info, they have the right kind of experience, it's a good way to start. Stay away from Ebay until you know exactly what you need, and have the money to waste. I don't work for Hobby Lobby, and I don't have any money invested in their company, but, it is a good place to start for information and product. After you get experience, you might be able to shop around and snag a bargain here and there.
Just do it.
Al
03-06-2006, 07:47 PM
#7
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RE: TF Spitfire Emod
Hi Patrick,
If this is your [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHU87&P=7]Top Flite Spitfire MK IX[/link] .60-size warbird at Tower Hobbies then it has a 63" wingspan and weighs about 8lbs.
Using the rule of thumb for strong aerobatics, 100w/lb with work fine so you need a 100x8 or 800 watt motor.
I would look at the following cost effective combination. The AXI outrunner will provide direct-drive maintenance-free operation.
[ul][*] [link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/brushless-combo-axi.htm#413016]AXI 4130/16 motor Jeti 77-amp ESC Combo[/link][*] [link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/grprop.htm#3%20Blade]Graupner 15x8 3-blade prop[/link][*] 6s Lithium pack capable of delivering 60amps[*] 6v UBEC or receiver battery pack
[/ul]
Check out the Cellpro and BalancePro HD cell balancing lines at [link=http://www.fmadirect.com/category.htm?id=4]FMA Direct[/link]. A new 4800mAh cell will be released for both lines in a week or two that is capable of delivering 100amps. The exsiting 3200mAh cell can provide up to 64amps.
Good luck!
If this is your [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHU87&P=7]Top Flite Spitfire MK IX[/link] .60-size warbird at Tower Hobbies then it has a 63" wingspan and weighs about 8lbs.
Using the rule of thumb for strong aerobatics, 100w/lb with work fine so you need a 100x8 or 800 watt motor.
I would look at the following cost effective combination. The AXI outrunner will provide direct-drive maintenance-free operation.
[ul][*] [link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/brushless-combo-axi.htm#413016]AXI 4130/16 motor Jeti 77-amp ESC Combo[/link][*] [link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/grprop.htm#3%20Blade]Graupner 15x8 3-blade prop[/link][*] 6s Lithium pack capable of delivering 60amps[*] 6v UBEC or receiver battery pack
[/ul]
Check out the Cellpro and BalancePro HD cell balancing lines at [link=http://www.fmadirect.com/category.htm?id=4]FMA Direct[/link]. A new 4800mAh cell will be released for both lines in a week or two that is capable of delivering 100amps. The exsiting 3200mAh cell can provide up to 64amps.
Good luck!
