Mickey-RCU

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone has done a conversion of the TF 60" Corsair to electric. I would like to have operating flaps and retracts on it but from what I have heard there are some problems with the retracts.
I love the plane and the kit looks great.
Any suggestions on the setup, mods, power, etc.? What flight times could I expect?
Comments and feedback welcome.
Thank you

Mickey

http://www.top-flite.com/airplanes/topa0101.html

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

There's a guy, I think in Canada, who converted a Top Flite P-39 to electric, and it seemed a worthwhile project. He was very happy with the performance. Then again, I think maybe the P-39 is possibly THE best candidate for an electric powered warbird, having a very streamlined fuselage.
Never heard of anyone doing the Corsair tho. If you can find one, a 'red box' fuselage builds lighter than the Gold edition, but it is more labor intensive. You might consider leaving the landing gear off. My expereince with the glow powered Top Flight Corsairs is that they land very nicely with the gear up. I have adopted the practice of making wheels up landings when ever I have an engine failure, and they slide very nicely on the gull portion of the wing. Leaving the gear off would save a lot of weight. You could also use cap strips on the outer wing panels instead of sheeting, could save a few oz.
Just to give comparison, MonoKoted Gold Edition versions with fuel power, retracts, and flaps are weighing between 8 1/2 to 9 lbs. 'Glassed and painted ones typically weigh a couple pounds more. Actually, I would recommend leaving out the flaps option also, the added weight would not cancel out the benefits in an electric version.
Keep me posted on your project. Click on my gallery to see pics on my Saito .72GK powered Gold Edition with retracts and flaps, weighs 8 lbs, 10 oz.

Mickey-RCU

Hey there CorsairJock,

Beautiful, just beautiful looking Corsair you have there! Is this glassed or MonoKoted?
Well, not to have the TF corsair kit built with flaps and retracts, I could not live with that, that's the reason I chose this kit, I want the flaps and retracts. To reduce the weight my idea would be to go with MonoKote, maybe replace some of the heavy ply parts with balsa and generally keep it light as possible. How is the quality of the balsa in these kits? Light or heavy?
And also, I want to bring the kit from the US - I think you can get these around $ 150,- right? Well, here they sell them for CZK 8.600,- which converted to US$ at todays rate is about $ 320,-
But anyway, looks like a 24 cell thing.....but I need to know if it's possible and if I can expect reasonable flight times. I guess I'll wait and see.
Thanks again, I'll keep you posted if I decide to go for it.
Keep the ideas comming folks, need help!
Mickey

Saberjock

I have been flying the TF Airacobra P-39 for quite a while now and it never fails to amaze! It has an AF 40G and 22xSR Max 2400 cells. I can float it around for almost 10 mins, but for "airshow"stuff I like to be on the ground in 5 mins. BTW it is 8 lbs RTF.

My TF Sea Fury is 12 lbs with an AF 90 direct drive, 28xCP2400. It's quite a bit draggier than the 'Cobra and appears to fly slower, but it could be perception as it has a lot more volume than the '39.

Both aircraft make people stop and watch, though and they are a joy to fly, very stable and honest in the way they handle and land. I should think that the Corsair would be an ideal candidate for a similar conversion, as it has a wing that is very forgiving to a bit extra weight.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Thanks, Mickey for the compliments.
Mine is MonoKoted. Actually tho, I now prefer UltraKote. They have a Corsair Blue, which is more accurate than the MonoKote Insignia Blue, PLUS it does go arounf corners better.
And yes, the Gold Edition Corsairs are going for under $150 here in the USA.
And, Welcome to the thread SabreJock. You are the one I was refering to. Did you leave the landing gear off of either of your warbirds? I seem to recall that you did for the P-39.

Saberjock

Or as the Brits would say, "undercarriage", yes I left it in the bin for both birds. The dolly has worked just great except for a couple of attempts in Chilliwack this May when the humidity and grass sog were both 100%

I know that retracts, flaps full cockpits etc add to the ooh-aah factor, but having flown several (and still do) large aircraft with these extras, I came to realize that the things which stop one from enjoying a weekend fly-in are the same things that give the spectators their jollies. Nobody has ever complained that I can't taxi either of these magnificent looking warbirds!

kdhanson

Hi Saberjock,

Did you build the "Gold Edition" P-39 or the older TF kit? I have the GE P-39 and a AF 40G w/ superbox (both still in the box). I'm glad to hear yours flies well. I may decide to build the kit for e-power now. What type of mods did you make to the kit (wood swapping, parts alteration, covering)?

Thanks,

Ken

Saberjock

Ken: The Airacobra had extensive lightening during construction. Balsa wherever there was hardwood, plywood was "Swiss-cheesed" throughout. Of course, no gear wood and cowl is all balsa rather than the plastic parts.

It's the Gold Edition.

BTW I've used the 40 with Superbox on other projects, and it sure produces the thrust, but with the 18x10 prop you might have clearance problems with a small warbird and gear. Also, the speed might be a bit slower than you'd like to see. My '39 flies with a 12x10 or 14x7 prop and the 1.63 box. The Sea Fury uses a 15x10 direct. For warbirds like these, you need a bit of speed for good effect.

Mickey-RCU

Hey all,

thanks for the comments. I really do have to get one! After that I will decide on if to use the "undercarriage" lol and flaps, or if to leave these out.
Now, is there any dealer in the US I can order from and who is able to ship me direct to the Czech Republic? I could also have this shipped to my friend in the US and he could bring it to me later on as he travels here often and I could save some $ on the shipping. What do you think if these kits selling here at $320,-? If I figure, that they are a dealer for Top Flite in the Czech Rep., they should have some support and wholesale prices and if I add the cost for shipping, taxes, duty and all that crap, check the USD/CZK rate and realize that they ask $320,-....DOH! Thiefs!

Thanks
Mickey

kdhanson

Thanks for the tip C.W.!

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Tower Hobbies will ship international. Here is link for more info:
http://www.towerhobbies.com/ordering.html
Their current price is about $150 (plus shipping), but they have discounts/ coupons which should knock about $15 off of that. You could also check out eBay, many being sold there for about $125 plus shipping. 'Red Box' versions have been selling for even less.
In any event, I would really recommend leaving ths flaps non functional. Corsair flaps are very complicated (6 flaps, at different angles, and different dihedrals), and most people use 2 servos for them, meaning you would be adding several ounces and a lot of complexity. I think flight performance would suffer too much, if you are using electric power.
BTW, I have a Ziggs combat Corsair which I plane to E-power some day.

Mickey-RCU

Hey,
checked the link and it looks like they won't ship this one international. Any other dealer? If not, I'll have my friend from the US bring one. Is the box big? Can't wait to hear him when he finds out that he'll have to carry a huge box with him on board. Guess I could have much more parts in the kit if he would put it in the luggage department...lol.
Mickey

SigKavalier

I was just thinking of doing a conversion on a TF Corsair. I was going to lighten it up as much as possible. Mainly by using lightweight gear like smaller heavy duty servo's etc.
Other than that just like glow except using the Big Axi brushless outrunner motor on 16 cells. Probably cp-2400's.
This setup has about the same power as a good .90 4-stroke does.
So weight is the only issue to contend with.
I was also going to paint it, but cover it with pro-skin where possible. Lighter than glassing balsa sheeting, and stronger than monokoted balsa.
The Axi motor weighs in at a little over 8oz's. I think they are around $130 brand new which is cheap compared to a .90 4-stroke. Also no BEC on motor instead was thinking of going with a Li-poly receiver pack.
Just really can't decide which one to do. I like the Skyshark R/C kits as well as the TF Corsair, and T-6.
The Skyshark kits do however build lighter just cost a little more.
Just wherever it says to sheet with balsa I'm going to pro-skin it. Stuff isn't hard to make anyway, and much less sanding, and filling. Plus it's applied with pro-bond which is very light.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Pro Skin? Never heard of it. Can you tell us more about it and/ or direct us to a web-site?

Saberjock

SigKavalier: I don't know the output of the Axi you'll use but here are my observations about the two Gold Series kits that I fly:

One is the Airacobra, very sleek and flies in "Barnburner" mode on about 800 watts (AF40G/22 Cells).

The other is The Sea Fury, not much bigger in wing area but much more volume, like I assume the Corsair will be. This flies in about the same manner as the Airacobra, but uses about 1200 Watts (AF90 DD/28 cells).

Both of these models fly with sufficient moxie to awe spectators and other pilots, me included. I hope this helps. T.

SigKavalier

Yeah I was a little off on the Axi. It needs 24 cells, and a 12x8" prop in order to get 870watts at the prop.
I've also decided to go with a Skyshark Stuka, and run a geared Mega on 20 cells swinging a 16/10" prop. This combo gives me almost 9 lbs of thrust and a 68mph pitch speed.

John in Boston

My Feedback: (1)

Mickey, I am no expert, but I agree with what others have said here:

Top Flite's models tend to be builder-friendly...excellent instructions, and good,solid construction. But they often come out heavier than many other models of similar size. And that weight of course then affects the flying, especially so with an electric powerplant where you'd want things as light as possible.

For ease of flying, they definitely have nice airfoils (=gentle and forgiving through the flight regime).

The F4U has more drag than an inline engine'd aircraft perhaps, but it DOES have a nice LONNNNG nose moment...so that can help with balancing the model without having to add nose weight and in general a long nose enhances flight stability.

If you can go through the Top Flite kit and carefully lighten things up, you'll likely have a beauty on your hands!

Saberjock

As previously stated, I've done it both ways. Extreme lightening on the Airacobra to achieve a flying weight of 8# and do very little with the Sea Fury for a weight of 12# (Bigger motor and 6 more cells add to it). Both fly great.

The kits will handle all the weight you want to put into them, and fly fine IF!! you put the proper amount of power into them. With modern motors and batteries there is really no need to go about saving a gram here and gram there. Just build it prudently and enjoy! Tex.

P.S. As far as balance goes, with a 2-3lb battery to slide back and forth, there is never a need to add lead to the nose. T