Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Absolutely DO NOT count on the fuel to have a corrosion preventive oil added. Read the directions for the engine! You can cause corrosive damage to your engine very quickly!!!!!! Use air tool oil and/or blu-block after you shut down your engine for the session. Read my earlier posts on corrosion. I am looking out for you. Please take this seriously. -Tom

BeasleyBunch

Ihad a feelingI subscribed to the right thread!

Thanks, Tom and did go back a look through the earlier posts... I see you use both air tool oil and blue block and you also run fuel w/ only 8% oil and the mix recommended just a few posts back has about 17-18% oil.So you are saying thatthe increase in oil content does not decrease the need to use after run oils. Got it! I'll follow your advice and get some air tool oil and blue blockto have on hand...

Thanks again!

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Beasly, To clarify........The engines will run fine on the higher oil content with some nitro but will be a gooey mess. I was telling an individual he can run for fun the engine on the higher content until he finds a methanol source.

You will know if corrosion sets in when you turn the crankshaft and you detect a grainy feeling. A properly oiled engine will feel "silky" the next day and week. You will have a ball with your engine. -Tom

Pete Bergstrom

Please, please, please ... always use afterun oil (Blue Block works great!). I can't tell you how many bearings we replace here because of rust after using a fuel "...that requires no after run oil..." That is a great marketing campaign for the fuel companies but they don't ownyour engine -you do! The small amount of time it takes to use the after run oil at the end of the day is well worth it to preserve your investment.

Have fun with your engine!!!

Pete

BeasleyBunch

Consider it done!

Thanks again...

Joel_L

Should I be worried?

I have yet to run my 735. I put a prop on it and turn it over. It feels uneven ( compression ) as it goes around. I notice some valves are tight so I adjusted all of them. I took all the plugs out and checked the compression one cylinder at a time ( just one glow plug installed going around to each cylinder ). Before putting the glow plug in I put in a drop of light oil. Two cylinders really pop, three are just so so, two barely feel like they have any compression. I have had various single and twin cylinder four strokes that have had soft compression but run just fine ( after running the compression is fine ). I imagine that things could stabilize as I get some running time on the engine. What worries me is that the engine was run at the factory and it had tight valves out of the box. Should I just run it and see where it ends up? I just don't want to be in a position where I run it and its a dud and have someone tell me I didn't break it in right.

Joel

Pete Bergstrom

When they run these at the factory the first time a lot of things seat better than when they are first assembled. Your compression will improve after running some. I wouldn't worry about it. The rings haven't even begun to seat themselves.

Pete

Joel_L

Thanks Pete, good enough, I will run it through the break in process and see how it ends up. I also expect it will be fine.

Joel

Joel_L

Is the EVOX1001Q the ester based 2 stroke oil?

Joel

Linkan2

Hi all radial engine lovers
I drove / flew my ums 7-35 in 6 hourly.
When the engine is cold, it is uneven compression, with a little oil in the cylinders it will be good.
When the engine has warmed up is compression well.
But when you pull the engine in the wrong direction, it's good compression on all cylinders?
Lars

Pete Bergstrom

Yes, it is a synthetic ester based oil.

Pete

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Lars, I have seen that phenomenon occur on all four strokes when proped backwards! I cannot offer an explanation...Tom

Joel_L

I think it has to do with valve timing and overlap. When you go backwards I think the valve is fully closed for more of the up stroke. I am not noticing this so much on my engine. I hope to be ready for a test run early next week. Need to make a test stand. I also ordered some of the Evo oil and have some Methanol. I'll make a batch of fuel with 10% oil and no Nitro to try.

Joel

BeasleyBunch

Joel, looks like we were running the same errands today! I stopped by Hyperfuels and picked up a gallon of 99.95% methanol. Also placed an order for the after-run Blue Block…thanks Tom and Pete for that one! And used some scrap lumberto build, what I think, is a bullet proof engine stand. For size reference, that’s a 12 inch ruler attached to the square. Still have to finish the platform for the fuel tank, mounting configand misc other items...

Joel_L

Hi,

Some more pics of my 735/Staggerwing installation. Still need to seal the plywood plate.

Joel

BeasleyBunch

Having theradial sitting there brings that plane up to a whole new level! Great job...looks fantastic!

cymaz

Just about to run in my new 770. I bought it on the 30 Jan 2012, going to use a 24x10. I notice someone else has a xoar prop for their 777. Same size???

I am getting off the point [:-]......What is the best way to hitch up the glow wiring harness so it does not foul up the throttle linkage please.

BTW my radial is going in this.......
For anyone that doesn't know this plane:General Western Meteor P-2-S (N12294). The last ever built and in about 1950 was converted into a duster with a big 7 cyl Continental Radail

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Does anyone have a link to a UMS / Evolution 9-99 actually FLYING an aircraft?
The engine looks great and idles really well (as I have seen in a YouTube), but I cannot find any detailed information about the flying/handling characteristics or video of anyone actually FLYING one?

Has anyone heard about these radials being eventually produced as gassers?

THANKS.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Cymaz, I just saw your post. My engines are from before the linkage change so I am sorry I cannot visualize how the harness gets in the way of the linkage.

Richard, Earlier I showed my Robin Hood 99 with my nine cylinder in it. I have flown the heck out of it but I have no video....I am not familiar with a gas version. I think a gas version would require a needle bearing at the crank pin. -Tom

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Hi Tom,

Can you give me some idea as to the performance of the 9-99? My consideration is to power my 25% Mr. Mulligan. It currently has a DA100, which is a bit of overkill, but it WAS a golden age racer, afterall.

The 9-99 would fit the plane perfectly, as far as size and balance, but having flown a 9 cylinder glow in the past (Technopower) I found they do NOT like to be run at full throttle for any extended periods... at least this was true of the Techno; it would overheat and eventually begin to shed parts...[]

What prop are you spinning and at what RPM? Did you break it in on the bench using regular oil content glow fuel? Now flying with 5-6% oil? Any real-world handling and flying info you can provide would be appreciated.
THANKS

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Replacing the power of a DA 100??? That is a 10 HP + engine! Do not expect the same performance. What does the plane weigh? My 990 (yes older displacement) flies a 25 Lb plane solidly with good loops etc. The Evolutions are good solid engines, vastly better than a Technopower with much greater power and far cooler running. I would not run these engines full power all of the time. I broke mine in with 16 % oil 15% nitro in the old days before directions. I currently run 8% oil and 7% nitro swinging a 24x12 prop above 5000 somewhere. Check my very early posts with that information. It is late so I will give you more info later. -Tom

cymaz

Just ran in my 777 over the weekend. Took the best part of 2 gallons of fuel for the 3 hrs that is recommened in the manual. VERY stiff at the beginning-so much so I burnt my starter out. But once at the end of hour 2 could flick start it by hand when warm. Now has very good compression on all cyls and nice, smooth free action inbetween.
Glad I took the time and trouble.

BTW has any body had trouble fitting a needle extension. Mine does not seem to be threaded all the way through-probably a one off??

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Cymaz, Check your drive washer to see if it interferes with the crankcase. There have been a couple of cases where the washer was against the crankcase causing much friction to turning the crankshaft. A thin washer between the front bearing and the split taper cone will solve this. -Tom

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Richard, I believe the rpm on my 990 was 5800 with a 24x12. Your engine should have 10% more power. The 9 cylinder is easy to start with a sullivan regular hi-torque model on three 4000ml lipo's of high c capability. You MUST have a good high current starter battery for the glow plugs. Frankly, out at the field these engines are easy to run. I use no on-board glow power. The corrosion prevention process is critical at the end of your flying session. Please read my early posts. I took great care and time in writing them for your benifit. Pictures of your Mulligan would be great. -Tom

cymaz

Thanks Maxam for the advice..is there any special washer I should get???????