Rudolph Hart

I'm not looking for brands of one oil over another please..just the percentage you run on a regular basis.For the record i always run 10% synthetic and 3% castor in my saito fourstrokes,how about you??

earlwb

I typically use 5% nitromethane glow fuel and it contains 17% oil in it. I use the same fuel in both my 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines. It has a blend of synthetic and castor oil im it.

jeffie8696

Most commonly in my four strokes I use SIG 15% Syn Plus which has 18% Klotz full synthetic and in my 2 strokes I use SIG 15% Champion which has 20% lube at a 50/50 castor synthetic blend.

the pope

Holy smoke there OF I think your treading a fine line . I use %20 total , at least 1/4 of that castor .Whether that amount is needed or not they run fine and the inards are good as well and it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling inside . For interests sake whats the min. amount saito recommend ?




o

bogbeagle

13% synthetic.... and I re-circulate from the crankcase to the inlet manifold.

Works fine.

mike109

G'day

I run 20% oil all my engines. The 20% is made up of 5% castor and 15% synthetic.

Recently I decided to try 20% all synthetic (Klotz 200T) but it was not a great success. Initially I tried it in my Saito 62 in a trainer and had several dead sticks. Then I tried it in an OS (sorry) 95V and it too started deadsticking. Both of these engines had never before deadsticked.

So I added some castor to the same fuel (about 5% overall) and the problems went away.

So I have gone back to my original blend. 10% nitro, 5% castor, 15% synthetic and 70% methanol. And all is well.

Mike in Oz

Rudolph Hart

Hi mike and thankyou for your replies all,it's always interesting reading to find out what other people here are doing re oil ratios.I should have added that i tune 500 rich on 10% nitro with a full tank and after a ten minute flight and nearly empty i get 200 rich.You can always see a slight smoke trail when it goes vertical.Plenty of oil in the crankcase if you pull the backplate and lots on the floor if i run it up in the shed.

Please add you thoughts.

SrTelemaster150

I have run as little as 8% lube in 30% nitro O'donnell Speed Blend.
This is W/CDI only, & the high nitro content requires a much richer mixture so the oil volume delivered to the engine is higher than W/lower nitro content.

10% lube is ample W/CDI & 15% nitro due to the fact that you have stable ignition timing & don't need the extra lube for insurance.

W/glow ignition 16% lube is plenty. I've run many many gallons of 15% Cool Power (a Saito recommended fuel) through my engines W/16% (full synthetic) lube W/O any issues. The only times I have had to open an engine up for repairs was due to crash damage or storing an engine in an unheated shed on a river bank for 14 years W/O draining the fuel from the tank or using ARO. (my bad)

Running the breather back to the intake manifold is a novel idea. That recycles the crankcase oil & should require significantly less lube in the fuel. I'm going to have to give that a try.

If I could get bulk methanol here in the boonies I would blend my own fuel for CDI use. 15% nitro, 10% Klotz & 75% methanol.

That would reduce my fuel cost to about what gas/oil mixes would be for gas burners. Yes, I would be using about 50% more fuel by volume, but I would also be making 25% more power than gas.

To the OP:

If you are getting good results W/13% total lube content W/your tune, why change it?

You're running plenty rich so you are getting more lube that way.

If it ain't broke you can't fix it.

SrTelemaster150

Why in the world would the absence of castor cause a deadstick? Did you retune your needles?

I think your deadsticks might have been a tuning issue, not a lube issue. I can see where a different (specific gravity/viscosity) lube could cause tuning issues.

mike109

G'day

It did not make any sense to me either. And, yes, I did re tune the engines and they were better but they still deadsticked. So then I simply added some (5%) castor and the problem went away. I can't explain it. I certainly was not expecting it.

The only possibility is that both the engines are relatively new. The Saito has about 90 minutes on it, and the OS only had about 40 minutes.

Cheers

Mike in Oz

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Since about 1993 I've run WildCat 10 or 15% fuel with 18% syn/castor blend. One Season I ran 6 gallons of PowerMaster 15% with 18% syn/castor blend. Last season I tried 4 gallons of WildCat 2/4 which has 18% synthetic. No I'm back to the Premium Extra with 18% syn/castor blend. On occasion I have run Fox 5% with 20% 50/50 syn/castor blend. It worked very well. I've never subscribed to the myth that Saitos need big nitro. They don't.

1QwkSport2.5r

20% oil in most engines 2&4 stroke, bushed/lapped 25% oil.

SrTelemaster150

You are correct, Saitos don't "need" big nitro, but they will respond.

My high conpression CDI fired 180 W/the big bore carburator went from 8450 RPM on 15% Cool Power W/the 18X8 Dynathrust prop to 8850 RPM flashing 9000 RPM on 30% O'Donnell Speed Blend. It was kinda scary![X(]

While I won't run that fuel regularly, I will still probably juice it up ocasionally just for vertical fun in my Dynaflite PT-19. It only takes a small adjustment to the HSN to transition from 1 to the other.

BTW: That little experiment dispels the myth that CDI will not make more power W/higher nitro. Yeah right, tell that to the top fuel dragster boys!

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Been running power master 10% nitro, 18% (synth/cast mix) 2-stroke fuel for over 10 years. Since they were sold, the new mix is (17% synth/cast mix). Still runs fine. I have several saitos with over 200 hours run time on them. I tear them down about every 60 hours for maintenance to clean them up. Still original bearings, pistons and rings.
Edwin

JPMacG

My Feedback: (2)

S&W 18% synthetic, 2% castor, 10% nitro in my Saito and Enya 4-strokes.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

the smaller the engine the higher the % of oil. 1/2A engine i run 20-24% oil .15 size engines I run 18-20% oil 45-60 I run standard 16-18% oil. 120 and up I go for 14-16% for STOCK engines with Normal nitro levels.

By the way the more oil you run the less power you will make. The engine is just a pump. it will move that air and fuel thru it. there is only so much space in the engine and the combustion chamber. So for this given volume you have some of that to contain oil to lube the engine. The oil doesnt burn in our engines. So this means the more oil you run the less fuel that will go thru the engine to make power. Hope that makes since to some.

Now you can run 40% oil if you like but in no way is it needed.

SrTelemaster150

This is perhaps the most relevant post yet. It addresses other factors that as of yet have been left out. I run mostly 1.50 & up series engines. 1.50 & 1.80 singles, a 1.50 X 2 twin & I'm working on a 1.71 X 3 Radial. That is the reason I tend to advocate lower percentages of oil.

More oil % also increases fuel consumpsion for the same reasons you cited. Oil doesn't burn and it also requires a larger volume of oil/fuel mixture to flow into the engine for the proper A/F ratio..

spd101

I run Byron's 15% nitro 18% oil in all of mine and never a single issue

1QwkSport2.5r

I run mostly low nitro (5%) fuels in my engines which means a leaner needle than 15% nitro so I use more oil. If nearly all of my engines were capable of handling more nitro, I'd use less oil. Getting head shims for old & discontinued engines is kinda tough these days. At the same time, I'm willing to sacrifice a little power for more lube.

That's just me though.

stratosn

My Feedback: (26)

I like the YS- 20/20........... 20 nitro and 20 syn. The four strokes like the nitro...............

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

You caught me in a grumpy mood today, Hobbsy.

I never said that the modern, low compression version of the Saito engine(s) had to have high nitro to run. I said that they run better with higher nitro fuel. Big difference.

However, just about any glow engine will run better with higher nitro in the fuel. True?


Ed Cregger


P.S. Now if you argue with what I've said above, I'll then know for a fact that you are full of horse puckey! (smile - but in a most friendly fashion)

wheelan

12% total oil,synthetic and castor with no nitro, no bearing issues and they run and idle fine, i use the same mix on my larger 2 strokes, been doing this for years....

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Well Ed, you got into the grumpy mood all by yourself since I didn't address the post to you. Notice my terminology, I said, don't need, I didn't say won't respond.

1QwkSport2.5r

I know 3 gallons ain't much, but i wanted to clean the outside of the engine up some so I pulled it down to inspect for rust and lubrication. Using 20% castor 5% nitro fuel since it was new, this is what my bean oil burning 4-stroke looks like after 3 gallons. Carbon is minimum, the exhaust valve was dark in color to start with and there was a slight amount of surface rust from sitting out of a box for who knows how long. All factory bearings and bushings which are still perfect albeit some castor crud.

The piston is not scratched, its a smudge in the oil film. I wanted to check the valve lash before teardown and used a straw to find exact TDC.

the pope

Ive seen the same issue as FNQ with engines that run better with some castor , that's one of the reasons why Im a convert . As for running high lube content which = less power I read that its so negligible u don't need to worry about it . Most don't run flat out all the time anyway , want more power jam a bigger engine in there. Is the reason that people use low oil that there tightwads ? Whoes gonna have 3 or 4 different oil blends for different size engines ? Then theres different nitro blends so in the end you could have 6 different cans of juice . Not me but whatever !Yet to wear a engine out and it doesn't look like its gonna happen anytime soon . Cheers