FlyM

Will 10W turbine oil make a good after run oil for 2 stroke glo engines?

https://www.mcmaster.com/#turbine-oil/=19yeqme

or this:

http://www.highsidechem.com/zoom_spout.html

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

I'm sure it would work but you would want to remove that oil before starting,,, so for week to week usage between starts you can buy a 2St oil (cheaper) that will mix with alcohol, try Klots..
for winter use or longer storage ATF is made to hold up well to friction and it wont gum like other oils will

Jim

the pope

Just between me and Fly my super secrete recipe is 1/3 kero , 1/3 atf and 1/3 oil that u normally mix in your fuel . The remaining add what u want !!!!!!!!!!! Dont tell anyone .

FlyM

Thanks for the reply Jim. Those 4 oz bottles with the extended tube are so convenient for oiling I had hoped that the oil in them would work. I will empty it and put Risilone in it. You don't have to clear out the Risilone before starting unless you really have the engine loaded up. I have used Risilone in my competition motors with good success for years.

1QwkSport2.5r

I use ATF myself. $3-4 a quart and lasts forever (generic store brands are super cheap). I do NOT drain it out of the engine and flush it before firing it up. I prime the engine like I normally do and fire the engine up. Keep the glow driver connected and rev the engine a bit to clear it out. Works like a charm every time.

If you use oil that costs more than $5 or so a quart, you have expensive taste or are just wasting money. The engine doesn't care what kind of oil you use though.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I have been using this Corrosion X in a pump bottle since 1990 except for a short time I used NAPA Sea Foam. I drilled the spray nozzle out to slightly smaller than the diameter of brass fuel tank tubing and forced a piece into it. I have about 16" of fuel line attached to the inserted brass tube with a bulk head fitting on the end. It pumps CX into an engine with little to no effort. I go,through two bottles a year.

rgburrill

You have to be very careful with after run oil because the wrong oil can ruing the fuel lines and seals. I used KMart air tool oil as a cheap alternative to the after-run oils made by the hobby industry.

BTW, if it says it's good for gasoline engines DON'T USE IT.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I have experimented with the CX, it has never effected the 16" piece of fuel line I use on it and I laid a YS regulator diaphragm in a puddle of it for six weeks and it had no effect on it either.

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

The only thing your going to get agreement on is that using something as an after run oil is good practice. As far as what is used you could not know the varieties or concoctions that people use.

The trick is to use it often and for that to happen you must have confidence in the oil/mixture you have chosen.

SO grasshopper choose wisely.

Dennis

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

I run the engine completely dry, then use ATF (automatic transmission fluid). I don't flush it out; just fuel and start as normal the next time. I have an ancient FOX .78 and a Fox .25 that have been flown and treated this way for 34 years. They have never been apart since new, and still run perfectly.

AV8TOR

Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

I have tried a lot of different stuff over the years. The problem is that many oils get gooey or even stiff like castor after a while. I keep finding that ATF is the thinnest oil that never gets stiff in the engine during storage. Turbine oil "ester" usually wont hurt silicone but will dry up over time, 0-20 Mobil 1 isnt too hard on silicone but got stiff after a couple of years, same with airtool oil. WD40 and most thin spray oil will last a couple of weeks before it dries up. My starter gets more use distributing after run than it does actually starting engines.

FlyM

Thanks Kweasel and all others who responded. I guess I will not take any chances with the turbine oil. I will dispose of it and fill the bottle with Rislone Engine Treatment Concentrate. I know it works. I have used it for the last 15 years without a problem, even with some engines that hadn't been run for 8 years. These are free flight and CL combat motors (K&B, CS, Nelson, Fox Mark VII and Cyclon) that have been run on 30 to 50 per cent nito. I was just hoping the turbine oil would work. Without positive proof that it will work, I will not take a chance.

Risilone: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rislone-E...-9-oz/23598497

1QwkSport2.5r

Turbine oil is fine I'm sure. Really, any oil is fine. Some just require repeat treatments a little more often. I use ATF with about 5% sea foam mixed in OR sewing machine oil. Neither one dries out - though the ATF mixture minimizes carbon superbly.

captinjohn

Sounds like a good choice.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

There may be good reasons for this. After reading about rust and after run oils on RCU for close to 15 years now it's clear that there are so many variables out there and everyone has different results all over the world. There's no pattern to this oil or that oil, what will rust or how quickly engines rust. In the end it comes down to finding what works for your engines where you are located...imo.

mkjohnston

My Feedback: (2)

Hi, some one on the Car engine forum told me a few years back tor try Marvel Mystery Air tool oil and I use that on a regular basis after I run my engines and they still running great after 20 years!
Michael

1QwkSport2.5r

The air tool oil is good to use. The regular marvel mystery oil isn’t so good. I use sewing machine oil or a mix of 90-95% Dexron ATF and 5-10% Seafoam. Either works well and is extremely cheap.

mkjohnston

My Feedback: (2)

Whats wrong with the regular MM Oil? Now if you tell me it will glue the piston to the sleeve I would say you are full of it. I met this guy at a hobby shop how told me that and it turns out that he has the patent on the crap that Hobbico sells just saying I ve used it for 20 years and my engines run just fine!
Michael

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

nothing probably, but MM is a penetrating oil, so it's thin, I'm sure it would work ok, but I also would think there is better oils to use. ATF is made for the scuffing and friction clutch pads create in transmissions, much like scuffing and friction you get from pistons, rings and bushings when an engine is turned over, that's my look on it

Jim

Jesse Open

Marvel Mystery oil, air tool or otherwise is merely Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits) and light naphthenic oil with, it seems, a bit of peppermint oil. It runs off of metal surfaces very quickly.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

I have been told that penetrating oil is not really good to set on aluminum for long times, but that is just hearsay, I really don't know ???

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Or it dries out and leaves the crank case full of dark red scabs. It and WD 40 should be called panther piss.

Jesse Open

Wish I had taken pics of the Saito 120 I just rebuilt. Looked like someone had painted the inside with red paint! The owner had used Marvel Air tool Oil religiously and generously.

1QwkSport2.5r

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

ATF yeeaa man, it good, my Saito manual says so LOL

Jim