magnum engine problem.
#4
My Feedback: (1)
well if the Magnum's whole Needle Assembly (Needle Holder) unscrews at the Carb you may be able to replace it with an OS Needle Holder and Needle, this is because the Magnum and ASP engines are copies of the OS engine,, see my link for the OS Needle Holder,
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCR37&P=7
that's about all I can help you with, some one should be able to tell you if it fits, if it does don't forget to order the Needle too
good luck
Jim
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCR37&P=7
that's about all I can help you with, some one should be able to tell you if it fits, if it does don't forget to order the Needle too
good luck
Jim
#5
Thread Starter
ahhhh,....that would be a simple fix !. i'll have to check that out, (but I believe it is as you describe) and then order one from somewhere. there is no such thing as a hobby shop around me (closest is 90 mi. round trip and they don't sell OS). there was a good one that sold OS engines about 22 miles away but it closed about 4 years ago. . thanks for the heads up on the needle valve body issue.
#6
Thread Starter
i think I solved the problem. ...
blowing through a piece of fuel line with the needle valve screwed shut, I could always get air passing the remote main jet. I pulled the cap on the carb body and put the needle ass'y in the carb, by-passing the remote needle bracket and that stopped the air from passing the needle valve with it screwed all the way shut. evidently the jet in the remote bracket is no good. tomorrow, I will pull the engine remove the remote bracket and run new fuel line to the carb. then make a test run and see if tuning has improved,.....I'm thinking it will now run like an engine should. I noticed that the jet in the remote bracket is brass while the jet in the carb is steel. just a light seating (as it should be done) of the needle is all it took to stop the air flow when I put the needle in the carb, while even a firm seating in the remote bracket would not stop the air flow. prognosis,.....poorly made remote needle bracket. I do know that a given drill bit or reamer will drill or ream a larger diameter hole in brass than it will in steel,.... maybe the problem that gives Magnums their reputed problem that Wasp talks about. thank's Wasp, btw, ....your post got me thinking about putting the valve back in the carb..
blowing through a piece of fuel line with the needle valve screwed shut, I could always get air passing the remote main jet. I pulled the cap on the carb body and put the needle ass'y in the carb, by-passing the remote needle bracket and that stopped the air from passing the needle valve with it screwed all the way shut. evidently the jet in the remote bracket is no good. tomorrow, I will pull the engine remove the remote bracket and run new fuel line to the carb. then make a test run and see if tuning has improved,.....I'm thinking it will now run like an engine should. I noticed that the jet in the remote bracket is brass while the jet in the carb is steel. just a light seating (as it should be done) of the needle is all it took to stop the air flow when I put the needle in the carb, while even a firm seating in the remote bracket would not stop the air flow. prognosis,.....poorly made remote needle bracket. I do know that a given drill bit or reamer will drill or ream a larger diameter hole in brass than it will in steel,.... maybe the problem that gives Magnums their reputed problem that Wasp talks about. thank's Wasp, btw, ....your post got me thinking about putting the valve back in the carb..
#8
Thread Starter
I think i'll just leave the needle where it is now. I really don't need the remote location. the engine came with it so I thought i'd try it. so much for that idea !. I guess that's what I get for buying a Magnum instead of investing in another OS,....never again. we'll see what tomorrow brings as far as tuning.
Last edited by r ward; 05-16-2018 at 08:04 PM.