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supertigre s3000 owners manual

Old 05-25-2020, 10:39 AM
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Skybarron
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Default supertigre s3000 owners manual

Im am looking for an owners manual for an older Italian made s3000. this engine has an ASP carb.Trying to get this thing runnin right.
Old 08-20-2020, 04:16 PM
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bdtsr
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Hoping you got your Tigre running well. Start with an OS F plug and 5% Omega fuel. Your fuel MUST have some Castor in the oil mix.
Old 08-21-2020, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by bdtsr View Post
Hoping you got your Tigre running well. Start with an OS F plug and 5% Omega fuel. Your fuel MUST have some Castor in the oil mix.
ok thanks ill try that.
Old 08-21-2020, 10:09 AM
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FlyerInOKC
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Here is some information that may help you. I did a cut/paste sometime back after buying a ST3000.

From RCPilot on RCU 1/29/2003

[img]file:///C:/Users/Mike/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif[/img] Big Cats
I love 'em!!!

I've got 2 running 3000 engines and a couple of parts engines. I've got a 2500 also. Also a couple of parts engines in the 2500 and 2000 series engines.

The really cool thing about the 2000 and 2500 engines is that they have an identical connecting rod and crank. The 2500 is just bored out slightly larger, so it has a bigger diameter piston. If you got a 2500 with a bad rod and a 2000 with a bad piston-- you can swap and combine parts to get one going.

The only difference in the 2500 cases and the 3000 is the case height-- as someone else mentioned in an earlier post. All these engines use the same crank. They all have the exact same stroke. The only difference in the cranks is the rod journal size. The 3000 has a slightly larger rod journal on the crank. But still the same stroke as a 2000 or 2500. The reason for the taller case- and longer rod-- in the 3000 is to reduce the rotating mass. When ST lengthened the case and rod on the 3000-- it was done to reduce the angle of the rod to the side of the cylinder. With a short rod and the same huge bore-- it would cause the piston to be driven into the side of the cyl.. each time that the piston came around to BDC and on its way up to TDC. Lengthening the rod allows for a much smaller angle and less side loads on the piston and cylinder. With high angles and side loads-- you would incur "piston slap" very prematurely with the engine. That is: The piston and sleeve would wear tremendously fast and allow the piston to slap around in the sleeve after only a short time.

I run my 3000 with a 19-8 Master Airscrew Schimitar wood or a 20-6 Pro Zinger. It cranks out around 8200-8300RPM with the 19-8 and around 7500-7700RPM with the 20-6 prop. All this on 5% Omega fuel and a Fox plug.

These big cats are definetly torquers. They have more grunt than a 60yr old man trying to get outta the recliner.

I run a 16-10 on my 2500 with the same 5% Omega fuel and Fox plug. I get around 8700-8900RPM with this engine and prop. It's got plenty of torque.

I like the way the case is two pieces. You can remove the four bolts on the front case and the entire crank, bearing, and carb assembly comes right off the front of the engine. This makes for easy piston removal.

The stock carbs stink. I run an OS7D carb on all my big cats. Just dial them in and fly it,, no fussing around with the carb all day-- I want to fly-- not tinker with needles. The engines run flawlessly with the OS carb. A perfect idle. Excellent transition and midrange. And top end is about 300-400 RPM improved over the stock carb.

I've got two MDS 148 engines. One is still NIB. The one that is running now seems to be pretty powerful. I run it with a MA Schimitar 16-10. It cranks up around 8800-9000RPM with the same fuel and plug as the Tigres.

The new carb on the MDS is just fine. It idles well and has excellent transition and midrange.

Edit: None of my ST engines shake horribly. They all seem to idle and run wide open with very little shaking. Actually- the 2500 runs smoother than the 3000. I suspect because it has the same size crank and counterweight as the 3000-- just a smaller explosion to deal with. Makes for a smoother idle-- but it takes longer to spin up. The 3000 engines still run really smooth. No bad vibrations or shaking.

The 3000 will spin up faster because it has a huge bore-- relative to the stroke. With a big bore and a relatively short stroke-- the engine comes up to max RPM in about 1 second. From an idle-- just flick the throttle stick up and you got instant power. The 2500 takes about 2 or 2.5 seconds to get from idle to full RPM.


__________________

G.F. Reid: I've read from several different sources, and I believe that Mr. Moorman who posted above was one of them, that the ASP .91/1.08 carb works just as well as the OS7D carb on these engines and is about $30~$40 dollars cheaper. I have an ASP .91 and I can tell you, the carb is roomy.
I also have an ST-3000 with the OS-7D carb but haven't run it yet. I actually bought it used several years ago in the old RCO swap shop, kept it for a year or two and sold it since I couldn't find an immediate use for it. As these things go, just a couple of weeks ago, I found a use for it. I wrote the guy I sold it to to ask how he liked it as I was thinking of buying another. Well, low and behold, he sold it back to me for the same price! He'd never even taken it out of the box I mailed it in except to look at it.
Now, how many times do you get a chance to reclaim something that you regretted ever parting with?


Ed Moorman: The carb for the ASP .91 should be the same one as for the 1.08. For either of these carbs and for the OS, you need the split sleeve the early STs came with to reduce the hole in the crankcase to the size of the carb neck. Great Planes used to carry them. In a pinch you could use aluminum tape.

W8ye on using a Magnum carb: In the newer Magnum carbs, there is a split blue steel sleeve inside the throttle bore. You have to remove the barrel from the carb body and take out the low speed needle to remove the sleeve. The sleeve just makes the carb a little smaller for better fuel draw.

The sleeve I'm talking about is not the one that Ed is talking about. The one he mentions reduces the size of the throttle recepticle area in the crankcase so that you can seal off and hold the carb in place.

MikeS: I just got a ST 3000 for my 1/4 scale project. Talked to the engine gurus who said that the ST carb nipple has to be enlarged so the fuel starvation issue is reduced. Said just use the nest largest drill bit you can get and make that choke point larger. Do that and it turns it into a real snarlin' cat.
Luck,

Daryl Martel: The fuel nipples on the .60, .90, 2300 & 3250 are all the same size! I have all of these engines. Not only do you need to drill the nipples out on the 2000 - 3250's, you also need to drill the clunk out and use large (not medium) fuel tubing. Doesn't hurt to run a Perry or Cline pump either. I've never tried the Cline personally as I used a Perry on both the 2300 and 3250. Note I said used - neither of these engines have a home right now but will get put back into use hopefully this summer. If I don't get moved (work) this summer I'm hoping to production line 3 Ultrasport 1000s and intend to put the 2300 in one and the 3250 in another.

Flyboy Dave: ....if the O.S. 7B carb will fit (at about $85.) the big
Magnum carb (at about $35.) will also fit. Works fine.

Take your pick....the Magnum carb measures 15mm.
[img]file:///C:/Users/Mike/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image002.gif[/img]

Bdtsr: Watch your ST fuels. Super Tigre DOES NOT recomend using blended fuel (castor/synthetic mix) in their engines if the total oil content is less than 18%. For 10 to 12%, the oil must be all castor. Yes I have the paperwork to back it up. Came with an engine I purchased for my dad as a gift. I have the 2000 and 2500 both running OS "F" plugs on 15% Omega, they run great with no problems. I also run Perry carbs, 1/2 the cost of the OS. My 2500 turns a Mejzlik 18X8 @ 8900 rpm on the ground.

Bax: The SuperTigre G2300 CAN NOT use the low-oil "ST" fuels. It must have an oil content of at least 18%.

The other big 'Tigres' can use fuel with an oil content of 10%-12% once they are fully-broken in.

Hemikiller RCGroups 5/17/2012:

Basic rule with the big ST's

-LARGE fuel lines, tubes and clunk (drill it out if necessary)
-Low oil, low nitro fuel (12% oil, 0% ~ 5%)
-Hot glow plug: Enya #3, OS F or #6/A3, etc)
-Tune with a tach, not by ear

Old 08-24-2020, 12:57 AM
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Skybarron
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Holly cow! Thanks for all the info.this will be a big help.i didnt realize there was so much unique info for this engine. This will also be helpful for the other st pilots in my club!!
Old 08-24-2020, 04:52 AM
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FlyerInOKC
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The most interesting I find in my research when you get into the big Tigre's 2000 - 4500 they want no or very little Nitro in the fuel, that sure helps lower fuel costs.
Old 08-25-2020, 01:28 AM
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Why do these engines appear to run better on four stroke glow plugs??
Old 08-25-2020, 04:36 AM
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I don't have anything to support this position but I think it has to do with the heat range and length of 4 cycle plugs. If it works for you use it.

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