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K&B .65 muffler

Old 11-30-2021, 04:56 PM
  #26  
Red Baron Mike
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I got almost 1000 rpm more. Plus, with the baffle, my engine would overheat and quit when leaned out to the correct needle setting for flying, even though the engine was completely broken in. I tried drilling additional hole in the baffle but the engine would still overheat add quit. With the baffle out, the difference in noise was minimal. However, it idled, transitioned and ran so much better there was no comparison.
Old 11-30-2021, 07:22 PM
  #27  
the Wasp
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Originally Posted by Red Baron Mike View Post
I got almost 1000 rpm more. Plus, with the baffle, my engine would overheat and quit when leaned out to the correct needle setting for flying, even though the engine was completely broken in. I tried drilling additional hole in the baffle but the engine would still overheat add quit. With the baffle out, the difference in noise was minimal. However, it idled, transitioned and ran so much better there was no comparison.

what size and brand prop did it over heat with. some engines really need to be richened up well with large props. like that OS 61FX I had, after peaking the RPM I had to richen it 5 clicks with an APC 12x6, but with the 11x8 I had to only richen it 3 clicks. but it didn't like the 12x6 at all for sport flying.

Jim
Old 12-02-2021, 08:34 AM
  #28  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
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Sportsters don’t overheat and misbehave if you are using the right fuel and prop. Mine don’t like much nitro if you’re going to rev it up, but they don’t really like to rev up. They’re timed low and have a high compression ratio. Use a BIG prop and low nitro, and don’t use muffler pressure to the tank. 5% nitro 22% castor and a 13x6 is perfect for the .65. Taking the baffle out gives a bit more power and noise. Set the needle 500rpm rich of peak and you’re good to go.

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