stephensackro

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I'm in need of a muffler for a OS Max SF 46 engine. I have the engine but can't seem to find my muffler for it. Would anyone know the part number for this muffler or know where I can get one. Tried Ebay and other places, no luck.
thanks

JPRC74

I'll look, -Have .40 racer tuned.. too; and new OS .80 and marine head; and several engines in box/ airtool oiled and turned.../ from 1976 :

st, os, even an ok 60 and rocket 45 ///

JPRC74

on this site, there is a seller of 046 parts, looks like exhaust pipe, in selling engines glow, etc where only 7 sellers..

listings/engine

rcuniverse.com/forum/market/listings/engines-motors-5/2-stroke-glow-m39?sortby=dateline_desc&status%5B0%5D=0&type%5B0%5D=1

2W0EPI

Heck, why not sell your existing engine and buy a new OS max 46 AXii and get brand new technology.?

1QwkSport2.5r

the SF is a better engine than the AX. If you have a ringless SF .46, you can replace the ABN piston and liner with one from a Leo/Inc. .46 and get a superior true ABC engine compared to the original SF.

the technology in the SF is no different than the AX II. They haven’t changed their metallurgy in 30 years. They have changed their terminology to sound like it’s more advanced when it’s really no different.

2W0EPI

Actually, I wasn't implying which is better or the same specs, moreover the AXii is available new and on demand, whilst the sf is only available second hand or used.Spare sleeve/piston + bearings are likely to be more cost than a new AXii.

billlvrcs

A Magnum or Thunder Tiger muffler will work.

1QwkSport2.5r

Good grief. I absolutely hate OS, and I’m actually trying to throw the brand a bone.

The SF with a Leo/Inc piston liner (real ABC!) is cheaper to maintain and keep running than the AX is or will ever be simply because the bearings and piston/liner plating “technology” is rubbish in the AX. Not to mention the newer AX engines are made in China. But hey, whatever makes ya happy.

1967brutus

????? LEO/INC parts are hard to find nowadays, but are VERY unlikely to be that expensive: Most people do not know about the parts compatibility with the SF, and the LEO/INCs were cheap chinese engines.... If you can find one, 50 bucks might get you one.
And a set of bearings is maybe 15 bucks or so....
Same for the 46 FX, which shares parts compatibility with the Magnum/ASP 46: When still availlable (and they do pop up every now and then) a piston/liner set goes for about 40 bucks, and you can get decent condition complete engines for sometimes only 25.

It most definitely is worth a try.

1967brutus

In general I share your opinion about OS, but I cannot help but observe that I have had my hands on a few AXes for clubmates to overhaul, and whatever problems OS had with their metallurgy, it appears that they have that under control now. The rather hamfisted clubmate that did his utter best to kill the running gear by insisting on running it as lean as possible and WOT all the time, well.... he did not manage... Bearings shot, but P/L set surprisingly fully intact.

2W0EPI

An os 46ax engine piston and sleeve will set you back £124, see here, https://www.makeitbuildit.co.uk/os-e...24603000-73901

I can buy a brand new 46AXii engine for less at £120 complete.
It's sad because these engines are very well designed for replacement parts. If an engine becomes worn out due to use then the simple replacement of piston/sleeve front back bearings would make an old engine perform like new again but spare parts are just too expensive which don't justify the latter.

2W0EPI

Here's another example of sleeve.piston price for the 46axii pare parts sleeve/piston https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/cat...ducts_id=58932

1QwkSport2.5r

You do know what OS stands for, right? One of several reasons I have such disdain for the brand. Their engines and their parts are Overpriced Scatology.

Bert: they haven’t changed anything in their plating department. It’s luck of the draw as to which ones peel and which ones don’t. I would have figured when they moved production to China that they would adopt true ABC technology since the Chinese don’t really care about the environment or pollution.

I prefer to buy brands that stay true to the words on their box and in their manuals. ABC means ABC. Better yet is AAC. I have spare piston/liners for most of my ABC engines even though I’ll be long dead before any of them need to actually be replaced. I could probably sell all of my spares on the secondary market and triple my money.

2W0EPI

I am in agreement with you, its exactly the point I have being trying to make, a lonesome piston/sleeve costs £124 whilst the complete engine can be had for less than £120, where is the logic in that?.
Care to tell us this magic brand which has low cost quality?

1967brutus

ASP/Magnum is one, for example... The OS FX46 gains 1000 RPM and a gazillion better lifetime with an ASP/Magnum piston/liner set, and those sets, when they were still availlable new, were less than 45 British Pounds IIRC.
Rossi was another engine manufacturer that, for very competitive prices compared to OS, made engines with true ABC that outperformed OS in the same engine classes.

1QwkSport2.5r

There’s a lot of lonely ST GS45 ABC engines out there going for scraps on the used market. New ones have gotten pricey because people got greedy. I have a NIB made in Italy GS45ABC with a spare P/L/Carb for $50. The guy at the hobby shop had it marked at $90. Like he couldn’t get rid of it fast enough.

BRAT engines are mostly all AAC except the .51 which was ABC. The Bluebird is the same engine. I got a .25 and .28 for free. The .28 was unrun and the .25 has a brand new P/L/conrod all for free. Decent FSR clones with better cylinder tech. Enya CX series are stellar. I have a Como .51 ABC SCH NIB that I stole for $80.

good deals on quality engines do exist. Why people still keep OS on a gold pedestal is beyond me. They’re as disposable as any other cheap goods are, except you pay through the nose for them. Some are great while others are complete crap.

I had a .40 SF. Was an okay engine, but my Enya .40 CX was nicer. Started better, ran better, and I feel Enya carbs are better than OS. If ST carbs fit more engines, I’d have one of those on just about everything since I have a handful of them I have collected now.

the créme de la créme is Jett though. They are pretty hard to beat.

2W0EPI

Many of the above mentioned engines are now not available to buy on demand new. The question is then which new engine does the newcomer to the hobby buy?

There are only 3 or 4 manufactures currently selling new engines, so which one do you recommend?

2W0EPI

Found this from 2019 regarding availability of asp engines,

From "Just Engines" in the UK:

*UPDATE* Just to let you know that the sad news that the ASP factory has in fact closed and will not be reopening. This is a sad day for the Hobby in general. We are able continue to buy spares as long as their stocks last and will honour existing warranties as far as possible. As to the future, we will continue to give the great service you have come to expect supplying OS and NGH engines, in addition, we are now stocking Saitos again whilst exploring options for smaller 2 stoke glow engines. Most of you knew that the factory also produced SC, Magnum and Evolution as well Kyosho engines, these too will be affected.

If we want to keep ic engines attractive to newcomers to the hobby, they have to at least be available new.

1967brutus

Start a factory...

KCLC

Look at the MECOA website. He has mufflers that will fit.

Jesse Open

Darwin sez:

Dub Jett model aircraft engines and accessories

billlvrcs

I'm running an old (20 yrs) Mega-Tech 46 on a PT-40 with an 11-6 MAS and Stans 15%. Perfect combination, great running engine.

billlvrcs

Added note: simply don't run them all the time at WOT. Use your Tx to set the barrel at full throttle to about 80%. Use quality fuel with adequate oil and NEVER run too lean. I have 25 year old engines that run like new. Use a dedicated O ring silicone grease on the hi speed needle, remove the low needle and lightly grease the ring. Use Marvel Air Tool Oil mixed with ATF for long term storage. Saturate the entire engine, barrel, needles and both bearings prior to storage. Wrap the engine with plastic wrap (I use a grocery store bag and rubber bands). The 15 minutes you spend will save your engine.