Saito "Make-Over" O'Haul *Updated with Video!
#1

I let my poor Saito .45 sit in a shed for 10+ years. So I decided to overhaul it and give it a "make-over" at the same time.
It went from this:

To this:

To this:

*

Along the way, I removed the casting ridges from the connecting rod; drilled and chamfered oil holes in the big and small ends; and polished the rod to remove stress risers:

"What's for dinner tonight honey?" Umm......baked filet of Saito!

Actually this is just a mock-up as I am still waiting for a gasket set and new valve springs. I already got new Boca stainless steel bearings.
It went from this:

To this:

To this:

*

Along the way, I removed the casting ridges from the connecting rod; drilled and chamfered oil holes in the big and small ends; and polished the rod to remove stress risers:

"What's for dinner tonight honey?" Umm......baked filet of Saito!


Actually this is just a mock-up as I am still waiting for a gasket set and new valve springs. I already got new Boca stainless steel bearings.

#9

It's hard to find the right parts for a .45 and the valve springs I ordered for it didn't fit so I had to use the old ones but apparently they didn't take a 'set' from sitting for so long so that's a non-issue now. 
I just finished running it and it runs great! I used Powermaster 15% fuel; a Thunderbolt four-stroke glow plug; and a Rev-Up 12x5W prop. It tops out at 8000 RPM and with glow heat will idle steadily at 2500 RPM. This is measured with an old Royal analog tach.

I just finished running it and it runs great! I used Powermaster 15% fuel; a Thunderbolt four-stroke glow plug; and a Rev-Up 12x5W prop. It tops out at 8000 RPM and with glow heat will idle steadily at 2500 RPM. This is measured with an old Royal analog tach.
#13

ORIGINAL: Rudeboy
What kind of paint is Krylon exactly?
Is it something special, or just ordinary polyurethane or something?
Could you perhaps post a close up of the label on the can?
What kind of paint is Krylon exactly?
Is it something special, or just ordinary polyurethane or something?
Could you perhaps post a close up of the label on the can?
http://www.krylon.com/
#14

OK, for the prop nuts and gearheads who just can't get enough, lol:
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=25250
"Right click and save", it's a big 'un so broadband is the word!
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=25250
"Right click and save", it's a big 'un so broadband is the word!
#15
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That 45 looks terrific. I did the same thing to my Waverunner Waveradier 1100 exhaust years ago. Your right, if you bake it for 1.0-1.5 hours, it becomes rock hard. The paint is still on there with no chips to this day. Can't tell it isn't powder coated.
What are the hp specs for the Saito 45. I have a new Saito 40 that I received yesterday. I have heard the 40 has a little more power than the 45, so I am curious as to how much. I know hp are just numbers unless you have the torque to back it up, but since both are Saitos, I figure I just wanted to compare the two engines.
Saito 40 = .65 hp
Saito 45 = ??
Thanks and great job on that motor.
**UPDATED**
I found it. The 45 has .7 hp, which is slightly more than the 40, but it weighs 130g more than the 40, so I guess that makes up the difference. Saito 45 weighs 430g and the Saito 40 weighs 300g. The 45 actually weighs more than the 56 also.
Still great job on that motor. I really like the RED scheme.
What are the hp specs for the Saito 45. I have a new Saito 40 that I received yesterday. I have heard the 40 has a little more power than the 45, so I am curious as to how much. I know hp are just numbers unless you have the torque to back it up, but since both are Saitos, I figure I just wanted to compare the two engines.
Saito 40 = .65 hp
Saito 45 = ??
Thanks and great job on that motor.
**UPDATED**
I found it. The 45 has .7 hp, which is slightly more than the 40, but it weighs 130g more than the 40, so I guess that makes up the difference. Saito 45 weighs 430g and the Saito 40 weighs 300g. The 45 actually weighs more than the 56 also.
Still great job on that motor. I really like the RED scheme.
#16
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kmot,
What de-greasing procedure did you use prior to painting? I have used carb cleaner spray then Chrystler orange engine paint before but your Saito looks great!.
ZB
What de-greasing procedure did you use prior to painting? I have used carb cleaner spray then Chrystler orange engine paint before but your Saito looks great!.
ZB
#17

Hey guys, thanks for the compliments! 
I never knew the HP rating of the Saito .45 but mine is not the "S" version so it is probably less than .7 HP anyway.
As for degreasing, in the pre EPA days I used carb cleaner dip. The stuff they sell in Calif now is worthless and useless so I use brake cleaner and then hot soapy water.

I never knew the HP rating of the Saito .45 but mine is not the "S" version so it is probably less than .7 HP anyway.
As for degreasing, in the pre EPA days I used carb cleaner dip. The stuff they sell in Calif now is worthless and useless so I use brake cleaner and then hot soapy water.
#18
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One more question kmot,
Did you add a clear coat for the shine? I found hi-temp clear at the auto parts store and it made my Ryobi shine!
There is a few photos of it at www.jagengines.com , Look for the long john 120.
zb
Did you add a clear coat for the shine? I found hi-temp clear at the auto parts store and it made my Ryobi shine!
There is a few photos of it at www.jagengines.com , Look for the long john 120.
zb
#19
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TomK:
From the sound, you have the valve lash set very wide. Crank then down to minimum, the engine will be a lot quieter, you'll have less wear on the valve train, and you'll pick up some more power.
I've run into the early and late valve spring problem too, for the mid size block engines I have made a cutter to go from the 6.95mm bore to 7.25mm allowing the later springs to be installed. You can do the same if yu ever want/need to. As the 45 is in the small block series yours most likely are a different size, but if they are indeed the 6.95 springs and the new ones are 7.25 I can bore yours. And the engine doesn't have to come apart, just the old springs off, bore, new springs on.
Bill.
From the sound, you have the valve lash set very wide. Crank then down to minimum, the engine will be a lot quieter, you'll have less wear on the valve train, and you'll pick up some more power.
I've run into the early and late valve spring problem too, for the mid size block engines I have made a cutter to go from the 6.95mm bore to 7.25mm allowing the later springs to be installed. You can do the same if yu ever want/need to. As the 45 is in the small block series yours most likely are a different size, but if they are indeed the 6.95 springs and the new ones are 7.25 I can bore yours. And the engine doesn't have to come apart, just the old springs off, bore, new springs on.
Bill.
#23
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Tom:
I no speak joke. No matter how tight you think you have the valves set, if you can start the engine from cold they are not too tight. You will never burn a vlave in a Saito by having it too tight. If it's too tight it wont start - no compression. Set at zero clearance cold, the running clearance is about 0.002 due to the cylinder's heat expansion.
Bill.
I no speak joke. No matter how tight you think you have the valves set, if you can start the engine from cold they are not too tight. You will never burn a vlave in a Saito by having it too tight. If it's too tight it wont start - no compression. Set at zero clearance cold, the running clearance is about 0.002 due to the cylinder's heat expansion.
Bill.
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Bill speaks good words in last post! I have found that when the engine warms, the valve lash or click you hear, changes from when it is cold if the adjustment is a bit wide.. I have always kept the valve adjustment on the lower side of the spec. Read that as, don't allow any slop to speak of.
ZB
ZB