How should I take apart an ASP46?
05-06-2004, 05:53 PM
#1
How should I take apart an ASP46?
I put together a plane that is probably more acrobatic than I am so I asked around for a beater engine to use on it for a while. A guy at my club gave me a well used but reportedly working ASP 46. He was flying a plane with it a few weeks ago, may have crashed, don't know.. I put it on a stand to see what it would do today and didn't get far. I turned it over with my starter and fuel started overflowing the air intake after 3 seconds on cranking. The engine is mounted upright and the center of the tank is level with the carb. When the tank is full the fuel level is higher than the carb by maybe an inch. The needle valve was open about 2 turns and where it was when last flown. I tried a couple of more shots with the starter then turned it by hand . I found that the piston was sticking but not freezing at TDC and there was some play and clicking when I turned it thru top by hand. So I removed the back, head, sleeve and piston. It looks like the wrist pin is broken at the piston on one side.
How do you remove the wrist pin? How should I remove the crank? What happened? I don't think the space above the piston filled with fuel. Where can I get parts for this thing?
How do you remove the wrist pin? How should I remove the crank? What happened? I don't think the space above the piston filled with fuel. Where can I get parts for this thing?
05-06-2004, 07:31 PM
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RE: How should I take apart an ASP46?
Jack:
Sounds to me like you already have it apart.
Crank: remove the prop drive washer and press the crank out the back. The rear bearing may or may not come out with the crank. Heat the case to approx 250F and tap the back of the crankcase on a flat board, the rear bearing will come out. Slip a flat ended steel bar approx the same diameter as the larger section of the crankshaft, actually just a little smaller for a free fit, in through the rear of the case to push the front bearing out.
The wrist pin hole in the piston has a reduced diameter at one end, the pin will not go all the way through the piston. The larger diameter end has a teflon pad in it, lift the pad out and the pin can be pushed out from the end with the smaller diameter. Don't lose the pad, it has to e reinstalled, or replaced.
The ASP is sold in the USA as the Magnum line. If yours has the round cylinder get parts for the XL 46, if it has the semi-squared fins get them for the XLS 46. Importer and supplies from Hobby People.
Bill.
Sounds to me like you already have it apart.
Crank: remove the prop drive washer and press the crank out the back. The rear bearing may or may not come out with the crank. Heat the case to approx 250F and tap the back of the crankcase on a flat board, the rear bearing will come out. Slip a flat ended steel bar approx the same diameter as the larger section of the crankshaft, actually just a little smaller for a free fit, in through the rear of the case to push the front bearing out.
The wrist pin hole in the piston has a reduced diameter at one end, the pin will not go all the way through the piston. The larger diameter end has a teflon pad in it, lift the pad out and the pin can be pushed out from the end with the smaller diameter. Don't lose the pad, it has to e reinstalled, or replaced.
The ASP is sold in the USA as the Magnum line. If yours has the round cylinder get parts for the XL 46, if it has the semi-squared fins get them for the XLS 46. Importer and supplies from Hobby People.
Bill.
