minny minoza

Thought this was a Norvel .061--but now I ain't sure WHAT it is . . .

Any clues?

Thanx, y'all,
M

AMB

same engine same factory in Russia just different name similar situation with engines from China Magnum. ASP. SC same engines
just the way they are marketed and where thru out the world martin also appears the muffler is missing just held on with a simple wire
clip that goes around the cylinder the norvel will fit if missing it has a pressure tap too

minny minoza

Kool. Thanx, dieseldan, for the lowdown.

And the muffler's here; just pulled it, so you could see the cast marks on the crank body.

So, I'm assuming the break-in procedure's the same as for any other BigMig engine?

Gonna show my utter ignorance of throttled engines now, but I've never owned one, and this one will be powering a CL plane--but what position of the throttle is wide open, and what's shut down?

I'm assuming wide open is all the way towards the rear of the engine, but that's only cause that's the direction the throttle goes when I open the needle.

Do you break it in wide-open, or halfway, or some combination?

Admit I couldn't get it to crank when I tried this afternoon. A few encouraging pops, but I couldn't get it to run

Meantime, thanx again, dieseldan, for your prompt and helpful response to my query.

Best,
M

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Minny:

Your particular engine IS the Russian made one, it's the early AMD that Norvel sold as the "AME" engine. I have two on my Tiggerkitty.

Other that that, DieselDan's comments are correct.

Bill.

minny minoza

My god, what a gorgeous ship, Bill . . .

So, was my pic clear enough to be able to tell if it's an .049 or an .061?

Am ignorant of the break-in for a throttled engine. All my other norvels are strictly CL engines. And I thought I knew it all . . .

Thanx, Bill, for the note--and that kool pic.

M

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

M:

Full throttle has the lever pulled to the rear.

These engines were supplied with 2v plugs, they wont start at all well with a NiCad glow battery, If you have a power panel on your field box set it to give 3.5 to 4 amps to the plug, then it will start a lot more easily. Rhe later replacement glow heads will work fine with your NiCad though.

The engine is ABN, do the breakin as you would any other tapered bore engine. Sometimes helps to warm the cylinder with a heat gun before cranking it. At least for the first few runs.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

M:

Sorry, from the outside there's no way to tell if it's an 0.049 or 0.061. Except, if the origilal inked serial number is visible, the 0.049 engines were 4900xxx and the 0.061s were 6100xxx numbers.

My pair are 6100098 and 6100121. Two of the first made. Real antiques.

Appreciate the nice words about the airplane. It's the one in my avatar, about 15 years old, and it needs an engine change. The left engine wont oull full rpm any more, figure I should change both at the same time. Sad, rhey have given excellent service over the years.

Bill.

AMB

Here is my 061 norvel in a electric decathalon conversion it may look a little different since it has a RJL/Mecoa diesel head on it
martin (sorry its a little dark flash did not go off battery quit in camera)

minny minoza

Excellent. Figured this, the way it acted when I opened the needle--but thanx, for confirming. This is funny, 'cause I wasn't even getting a pop, and decided to pull the glowplug and check it. Took a setting just as you describe (power panel) to get any glow out of it at all. (Soon as I turned up the rheo, I did manage to get a few sputters out of it). Kool. I do finally have a heatgun; will give it a try.

Oh, and I'm thinking it is an .061--'cause the guy I bought it from said it was, and 'cause it won't fit in the motor mount I used to break in my other Norvel .049.

Thanx heaps, Bill, for the help--and thanx, too, for more shots of your twin-engine ship. She's a beaut.

Z ya',
M

AMB

Bill quite a stuff job on the radio gear and very nice on the sprung landing gear nevery saw that before on a small ship martin

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

You're welcome.

Martin:

I posted a thread in "Twins" about making the struts. Here's a shot of the nose strut.

Bill.

AMB

bill thx will check it out martin

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Martin:

You wont find the thread in twins, sorry.

I put it in Scratch Building. Click [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1101262/anchors_1101262/mpage_1/key_Struts/anchor/tm.htm#1101262]here[/link] to go to it.

Bill.

meowy84

Minny, I have an even older version of the AMA, called the AERO/ROPO (cast in Russian cyrillic) in .049 size and the crankcase dimensions are identical to my Norvel .061 Big Mig so I';m surprized yours won't fit. The cylinder head fins on my AERO are identical to those you have on your engine. My Big Mig has a 1.0 written in thin marker on the crankcase and I recall that the .049 engines had a .7 written on the crankcase if that helps any.

minny minoza

Interesting . . . As you can see from that second pic I attached, there does appear to be a 1.0 marked on the crankcase. Looks like "1.0 PY."

Seems like my BigMig .049 barely fit in my engine mount on the break-in stand. But this guy's definitely too fat in the crankcase to fit that mount.

Gonna give it another go today, following Bill Robinson's advice to heat the head with a heatgun.

Thanx, meowy, for the info. The plane I'm gonna mount this guy on needs an .061, so I guess I'll know if it don't fly very well, it's an .049.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

He's right. Playing with the picture what I saw as "Copy" turns out to be "1.0PY." The decimal is hard to see, but it's there.

Chris:

Please note the third character is a sytlized delta. Company name is "AeroMotor Design, or something like that.

Bil.

minny minoza

Bill wrote: "Sometimes helps to warm the cylinder with a heat gun before cranking it. At least for the first few runs."

Tried this a little bit ago, and it worked!

Got a couple' minutes of run time out of it. Decided to unhook the glowheater, and it quit soon after, so maybe I'm gonna have to baby this thing a bit longer.

Of course it's raining again now (Western Oregon), so I gotta wait five minutes for the sun to come back out and try it again.

Thanx, Bill. Was getting kinda discouraged--and my neighbors were getting way too much peace and quiet on a Sunday.

M

meowy84

Minny, one or two more things I wanted to mention. If you still have the other Norvel .049, why not compare the pistons. Might give you a better, more decisive idea if your AME is a .049 or a .061 (although the 1.0 should be a good indication unless of course it was mislabelled). One last thing about glow plugs. If you find you can't get the engine going on the plug that's in it you can substiture a regular Cox glow plug instead (although the performance will drop slightly).

William, the engine I have I believe (and was told) predates the AMA and has either AERO or ROPO cast on the side of the crankcase (too fuzzy and somewhat rubbed off to determine). The crankcase dimensions however are identical to my .061 Big Mig.....strange.

minny minoza

Raining again--but during a break, I managed to run this engine through two tanks of fuel.

But, as mentioned, when I unhook the glow heater, the engine only runs for a few seconds alone and then quits.

This gets better, right?

Never had an engine that needed the glow heater any longer than it took to get it started. But then I've never had a 2-volt glowhead, either.

Oh, and meow, that's a good suggestion, to compare pistons. I have a bigmig .049 and .061, confirmed, so I have good models to verify the size.

Thanx, folx,
M

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

M:

If the engine consistently quits when the glow heat is undone you probably need to replace the glow head. My first ones didn't last any time at all.

Bill.

minny minoza

Figured. And I liked meow's suggestion, of substituting a Cox glowhead--although I was ignorant that Cox made glowheads for Norvel engines. Just assumed I'd have to get a Norvel glowhead. This is kool.

And, till I figure out where to get Cox glowheads, I have three other Norvels I can pirate plugs from. (Don't tell anyone).

Thanx, Bill,
M

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

At this moment you can buy Cox glow heads direct from Estes for $5.99 each, including the shipping cost. Any quantity, I recently bought ten.

The down side is you have to buy them installed in the "Sure Start" 0.049 engines.

Right. They are selling the engines for $4.99 each, complete, plus $1 each for postage.

Since the glow heads usually sell for $10 each...

My AMD engines run fine with the Cox glow heads. They really aren't "Made for" Norvel, but they have the same thread and mounting depth. If you can find the old "TeeDee" glow heads they work every bit as well as the stock Norvel/AMD heads, the normal Cox heads still work fine even though they're a little bit down in rpm.

Bill.

Motorboy

"АМД" can stay for "Аеро Модельные Двигател"=aero model engine, "Авиа Модельные Двигател"=aircraft model engine, ... not sure...

The word "Motor" are not common word in russian, mostly used word "Двигател" (dvigatel) for motor/engine.

Jens Eirik

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks, Jens. As I said: "Something like that."

Bill.

minny minoza

Ha! This is too neat. I'd been thinking y'all meant the "glowplug," but or course, you said the "glowhead." Never imagined you could thread an .049 head onto a norvel! Gonna try it when I finish typing this.

Oh, and I heard about that Cox deal through Estes several weeks ago--when it was apparently already too late. Glad you got in on the deal, Bill. Talked to one guy on another list who bought 80 of them. I guess they're all over eBay now.

Offers expired--at least for the time being. I'll keep checking back, though.

It's funny, I use my old cox glowhead wrench to take off the Norvel heads. Should'a figured it out from that . . .

I've learned a LOT today.

Thanx,
M