Godflesh

Been following this thread. Noticed the mention of Seidels being made by UMS in India. Has anyone seen these in the flesh. How do they perform compared to their German made counterparts. Would it be safe to go out and buy one of these??

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I wouldn't have any qualms about buying the UMS built Seidel.

http://umstech.in/infrastructure.php

Godflesh

Hi Kmot,

Yup, their line-up of equipment and facilities look pretty impressive. Would like to know if anyone here as actually run the ST710 produced by UMS.........

VeeAte

Dont know if you guys have seen this or not.

Fairly large list of model RC engines.
Fair few of them are one off's, but this site is an interesting read. (Be sure to check out the aluminum model planes elsewhere on the site!)

Came across this while doing a search for something completely different.

*Scroll down for the list of engines with info*

http://craftsmanshipmuseum.com/KnappCol.htm

Dad_Roman

Just got an email "headsup" that these 400-R5's are back in stock...
http://www.himodel.com/engines/MAGNU...XL_400-5R.html

colled

Hi guys, hoping someone can help me. I've just bought a stearman with a Saito 3.25 5 cylinder radial in it. I haven't got any instructions on the engine though so can anyone tell what needles settings, starting procedure and which of the two sets of plugs to light for starting and for running on the onboard glow? If anyone know where to get a pdf of the manual that would be great. I've searched and googled and can't find anything really.
Many thanks

VeeAte

I couldnt find a pdf of it.
But I did come across this:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SAIMAN3

Tho I suspect the info is somewhere on RCU.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Just light the rear plugs. The front plugs will light themselves as the engine runs

AlainF13

Hello everybody,

I just received my ST710 (70cc - 7 cyl. radial from Seidel) which must go on a 22.5% Stearman.
Feed with 10% Aerosave oil, put Menz 24x10. Start well with hand.

I began with high speed needle open 4 turns, but not all cylinders fire, even with glow plug forced.
Without exceeding 2500 rpm (manual says), I progresssively lean mixture, the speed increased and founded all cylinder fire with needle open at 1/2 turn only !

I don't want to overheat the engine, and dare not rise rpm.
Must I continue to break-in at 2500 rpm - It has turned about one hour and has drunk 2 liters of fuel, until I can open the needle more ?
Or is there a carburator problem ?

Any opinions welcome.

Alain

the Gnome

Hello Alain,

do Your have the OS carburettor with both main and idle needle? Does Your carb have the venturi (about 6mm diameter) in it? I ran my ST710 for about 1/2 hour at maximum 2500rpm before gradually rising revs, reaching about 5000rpm for some 20 to 30 seconds after the first hour.

My first needle setting was main needle 2 turns open, then leaned out the idle needle until all cylinders fired propperly at about 2000rpm I think You should lean out idle and let the main needle as rich as possible (I cant get too rich).

After about 1 and 1/2 hour breaking in I started flying with 1/2 throttle most of the time.



gnome

Holm und Rippenbruch

AlainF13

Hi The Gnome,

Thanks for response.
I don't know if my carb. is on OS, but it's internal diameter is 6.5mm.



Also, the glow plugs are not OS F but Saito 'SS'.
Perhaps I must lower oil to 8% now and see what happens...


Alain

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There's nothing wrong with "SS" plugs for a four stroke

Cybertom

Is this one of the new Seidel engines made in India?

AlainF13

No, no scoop - but it must be one of the last done in Germany, bought at 'Top Collect'.

the Gnome

Hello Alain,

don't lower the oil percentage, I broke in my Seidel with 12% AEROSYNTH and 1% castor, had no problems with not firing cylinders. As You run less tan 2500rpm, I really think You should make the idle mixture jean, so You can let the main needle rich.

If it is a plug problem, then it should be fixed with the plugs lighted.

gnome


Holm und Rippenbruch

AlainF13

Oh sorry, Gnome [sm=red_smile.gif], I hadn't well read your answer and your advice on setting the idle needle before leaning the main.
You must be right, that's probably the problem.
I will try this as soon as I could start my engine - I must wait for the neighbors to go away because of the noise[sm=sad_smile.gif]

Thanks again

Alain

AlainF13

Bingo Gnome [sm=thumbs_up.gif], leaning idle needle solved the problem.
It turns with 2.5 turns main needle, but only 1/4 turn idle needle !

After 1 hour, I hit 5000 rpm full throttle.

Just one thing: the top cylinder exhaust is less hot (warm) than 6 others, at idle and high speed and whatever the main needle position.
Is it because breaking-in is not finished ? [sm=72_72.gif]


Alain

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I would go around the engine and check the valve gaps

AlainF13

Thanks w8ye,

I've already adjusted all the valve gaps at 0.1mm (they had 0.25 before).
I've re-checked the top cylinder valve gap and it's OK (same as others).

Dad_Roman

Is it possible that the one cylinder isnt firing for some reason?

Check your glow connection and plug for good glow. Then if thats not it, swap the plug to a cylinder next to it and see if the problem follows the plug.

the Gnome

Hello Alain,

if the top cylinder is firing at all, I would not worry about the lower exhaust temperature. Of course the mixture distribution to the seven cylinders is everything but the same, too the valve timing is not the same for all cylinders, as (not Seidel allone has this problem) there occures some thermal shape altering of the cam ring during the hardening process (check valve gap every two revolutions, it's not really the same). And, last but not least, how is compression of the top cylinder compared to the others when turning the engine slowly by hand? On my ST710 the compression became something like nearly the same after 3 hours of running.

gnome

Holm und Rippenbruch

colled

What sort of RPM should I expect to get from a Saito 3.25 on a 20x8 Zinger?
I'm getting around 6,500 rpm at the moment, is there more to come or is that about right?
Also my best needle settings so far are low 1.25 high 3.0, does that sound about right as well?

AlainF13

Thanks Gnome for the explanations.

That's right - actually, on 2 turns of the propeller, I 'feel' only 4 strong compressions : not all cylinders are yet here...

For the valve gap, as I have no (special ?) shim, I did that by tightening the screws until the pushrods are just 'tight', then unscrewing 1/4 turn (I've calculated that must give 0.125 mm of clearance.

abernethy1

Hello All

I just bought a early NIB Saito 325 that comes with the exhaust collector ring. To install it you must remove the mounting brackets. I have tried to remove them but the screws are so tight I am afraid of damaging something. I have managed to turn one about 2 turns but it is still way too tight. I am sure I am missing something. I do not have a manual with the engine. Any ideas and does anybody know of a source for a manual. Thanks for any help.

Walter

the Gnome

Hello Walter,

may be the screws are fixed with loctite or some other fixing glue, then heat the screws, using a soldering iron for example, to destroy the glue. Try to unscrew while still hot.

gnome

Holme und Rippenbruch