Everything Radial Engines
04-21-2009, 01:27 PM
#1576
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: La Ciotat, FRANCE
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Hello everybody,
Back to my ST710 and need again the Seidel guys advices [sm=drowning.gif]:
After now 5 hours (and 9 liters) of running - I'm now with 7% Aerosave - there are 2 cylinders with good compression, 2 other with medium compression and 3 cylinders which have NO compression at all [sm=angry.gif] !
The max speed I get (sometimes) is 5000 rpm with a 24x10 Menz.
I also have a fuel leak at the admission connection on the cylinder side (photo). I tighten the nut, with no effect !
I tried to disassemble the tube without success - it's blocked and I don't want to broke something.
Anyone knows how is made the sealing ? Is it a conical tube ?
And last but not least, the idle needle don't want to stay where I ajust it - the screw constantly turns (with vibrations I suppose). I put a second O ring on the screw, with no real success.
I know, That's a lot of problems, but any idea is welcome...
Back to my ST710 and need again the Seidel guys advices [sm=drowning.gif]:
After now 5 hours (and 9 liters) of running - I'm now with 7% Aerosave - there are 2 cylinders with good compression, 2 other with medium compression and 3 cylinders which have NO compression at all [sm=angry.gif] !
The max speed I get (sometimes) is 5000 rpm with a 24x10 Menz.
I also have a fuel leak at the admission connection on the cylinder side (photo). I tighten the nut, with no effect !
I tried to disassemble the tube without success - it's blocked and I don't want to broke something.
Anyone knows how is made the sealing ? Is it a conical tube ?
And last but not least, the idle needle don't want to stay where I ajust it - the screw constantly turns (with vibrations I suppose). I put a second O ring on the screw, with no real success.
I know, That's a lot of problems, but any idea is welcome...
04-21-2009, 04:48 PM
#1577
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kamen, GERMANY
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Hello Alain,
first, the sealing of the intake manifold is by copper shims on the cylinder head and (I think) O-rings at the crankcase. If the manifold don't wants to move, just try to unscrew the cylinder bottom nuts a little, so You can rise the cylinder a bit.
second, with Your compression problem, after 5 hours of running each cylinder should have nearly the same compression! You should try to find the leak, I suppose You checked the valve gaps, so You should make an adaptor from an old glow plug to which You can fit a short length of tubing, so that You can blow into the combustion chamber. You also can fit an injection to press air into the chamber. remove the manifolds and fill some oil into the inlet- / exhaust port, bubbles show the leak. If the valve seats are ok, it must be a sticking or cracked compression ring or the cylinder-head-seat.
Can't You send the engine back to Seidel? In my case he was quite friendly and sent back the engine within two weeks! The rev figure Mr. Seidel tells is minimum 5000rpm with 24x10 after 1 hour.
God luck...
gnome
first, the sealing of the intake manifold is by copper shims on the cylinder head and (I think) O-rings at the crankcase. If the manifold don't wants to move, just try to unscrew the cylinder bottom nuts a little, so You can rise the cylinder a bit.
second, with Your compression problem, after 5 hours of running each cylinder should have nearly the same compression! You should try to find the leak, I suppose You checked the valve gaps, so You should make an adaptor from an old glow plug to which You can fit a short length of tubing, so that You can blow into the combustion chamber. You also can fit an injection to press air into the chamber. remove the manifolds and fill some oil into the inlet- / exhaust port, bubbles show the leak. If the valve seats are ok, it must be a sticking or cracked compression ring or the cylinder-head-seat.
Can't You send the engine back to Seidel? In my case he was quite friendly and sent back the engine within two weeks! The rev figure Mr. Seidel tells is minimum 5000rpm with 24x10 after 1 hour.
God luck...
gnome
04-22-2009, 11:40 AM
#1578
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: La Ciotat, FRANCE
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Thanks Gnome for the fast answer and the advices.
I begin to understand that whatever I do to correct the problem, I will lose the guarantee !?
I will contact Mr Seidel, hoping for an answer...
I begin to understand that whatever I do to correct the problem, I will lose the guarantee !?
I will contact Mr Seidel, hoping for an answer...
04-22-2009, 01:02 PM
#1579
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kamen, GERMANY
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Hello Alain, and yip, normally You loose warranty when opening the engine by Yourself and without permit of the manufacturer..
gnome
Holm und Rippenbruch
gnome
Holm und Rippenbruch
04-24-2009, 03:42 AM
#1580
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: La Ciotat, FRANCE
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Hello Gnome,
While waiting for an answer from M. Seidel, I have blown in the cylinder by the plug hole and it's clear : the leaks comes from the exhaust valves on the cylinders with low or no compression.
Do you think I can do a valve breaking-in or cleaning without disassembling the cylinder ?
Alain
While waiting for an answer from M. Seidel, I have blown in the cylinder by the plug hole and it's clear : the leaks comes from the exhaust valves on the cylinders with low or no compression.
Do you think I can do a valve breaking-in or cleaning without disassembling the cylinder ?
Alain
04-24-2009, 02:31 PM
#1581
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kamen, GERMANY
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Hello Alain,
on (full scale) Porsche engines I often use the method to blow air into the plug hole by an air comressor (about 5 to 8 bar, You should start with 3 bar on Your Seidel, and block the crankshaft so that it cannot rotate forced by the pressure) and then open the valve and let it snap back. In most cases any debris gets blown out of the port.
You also can try to rotate the valve while blowing air into the combustion chamber, use a drill spanner to grip the valve stem.
If the valve is bent or something else, there is no other way than replacing and grinding the valve. May be, its a warranty case at all.
I think Mr. Seidel speaks english, so try to call him, may be this is a faster procedure to get the problem solved.
gnome
Holm und Rippenbruch
on (full scale) Porsche engines I often use the method to blow air into the plug hole by an air comressor (about 5 to 8 bar, You should start with 3 bar on Your Seidel, and block the crankshaft so that it cannot rotate forced by the pressure) and then open the valve and let it snap back. In most cases any debris gets blown out of the port.
You also can try to rotate the valve while blowing air into the combustion chamber, use a drill spanner to grip the valve stem.
If the valve is bent or something else, there is no other way than replacing and grinding the valve. May be, its a warranty case at all.
I think Mr. Seidel speaks english, so try to call him, may be this is a faster procedure to get the problem solved.
gnome
Holm und Rippenbruch
04-24-2009, 03:16 PM
#1582
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: La Ciotat, FRANCE
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Thanks Gnome.
In fact I realized that in rotating the exhaust valve, there were a position where the leakage decreased !
So the idea of blowing with an air compressor must be good. I will try that.
During the time I wrote this message, somebody from Seidel was answering my email, telling me to wait for Mr. Seidel to comme back from Dortmund exhibition, last week.
Any hope is not lost...
Alain
In fact I realized that in rotating the exhaust valve, there were a position where the leakage decreased !
So the idea of blowing with an air compressor must be good. I will try that.
During the time I wrote this message, somebody from Seidel was answering my email, telling me to wait for Mr. Seidel to comme back from Dortmund exhibition, last week.
Any hope is not lost...
Alain
05-06-2009, 06:07 AM
#1583
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Plzen, CZECH REPUBLIC
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Hi guys
Good sound ( Saito FA300T ) and old metal airplane .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szGiNSOc3rE
Regards
Vaclav
Good sound ( Saito FA300T ) and old metal airplane .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szGiNSOc3rE
Regards
Vaclav
05-11-2009, 12:28 PM
#1584
RE: Everything Radial Engines
hei
I am thinking of maybe buying the new Seidel 770 , but as i have understood it runs on 1:20 pure methanol . How do you Seidel owners do this ? where can this fuel be bought , are there special brands , is it only methanol and oil? It maybe vary from different contries , but i have not found a methanol retailer here yet.
I am thinking of maybe buying the new Seidel 770 , but as i have understood it runs on 1:20 pure methanol . How do you Seidel owners do this ? where can this fuel be bought , are there special brands , is it only methanol and oil? It maybe vary from different contries , but i have not found a methanol retailer here yet.
05-11-2009, 12:57 PM
#1585
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
nilsreinert123,
I have the ST710 (newer version of the 770) and I use Klotz synthetic oil with 99.99 pure methanol. I mix it myself. If you go back and read the forum I think it'll tell you the oil to use in Europe and surrounding countries.
Good luck with your engine.
I have the ST710 (newer version of the 770) and I use Klotz synthetic oil with 99.99 pure methanol. I mix it myself. If you go back and read the forum I think it'll tell you the oil to use in Europe and surrounding countries.
Good luck with your engine.
06-02-2009, 08:56 AM
#1587
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
If you don't have one, you will want one after you watch this!!!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LP0-9j_7HSo&feature=related[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LP0-9j_7HSo&feature=related[/youtube]
06-05-2009, 11:41 AM
#1588
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Reggio Emilia, ITALY
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
I don't know if anyone has already seen this, but it seems there's a new radial coming from OS:
www.os-engines.co.jp/090527/concept.html
(the radial alternates with another engine)
It's called the FR7-420. As far as I can tell, they added two morecylinders to their FR5-300 to create this new one. They also went with two distinct rocker boxes per cylinder head, as opposed to their usual single box.
It's listed as "2010", which means it'll probably be available in 2012 if they do as with the Il-300 inline
Radial.
www.os-engines.co.jp/090527/concept.html
(the radial alternates with another engine)
It's called the FR7-420. As far as I can tell, they added two morecylinders to their FR5-300 to create this new one. They also went with two distinct rocker boxes per cylinder head, as opposed to their usual single box.
It's listed as "2010", which means it'll probably be available in 2012 if they do as with the Il-300 inline
Radial.
06-07-2009, 09:04 AM
#1594
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Teague,
TX
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
ORIGINAL: nilsreinert123
Very cool !! now ASP have to follow up ;-) haha
Very cool !! now ASP have to follow up ;-) haha
Hmmmm......that would be a 560?
That would put us at 91.77cc ........man that would be sweet!
06-10-2009, 11:31 AM
#1595
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: brewer,
ME
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Does anyone have info on installing larger cylinders on the OS fr5? I need this diameter engine or something under 11" but would like 5 cylinders. Also, Depth is an issue as well. not more then 6.25"
Thnanks
Andy
Thnanks
Andy
06-10-2009, 09:43 PM
#1597
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ocean Reef WA, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Saito 170 Radial question
I have been flogging my trusty old 170 (yes the same one that blew up a while back) around the sky without problems for some time now.
Recently this changed.
Firstly the Keleo exhaust fractured at a weld joint between the ring and the left lower cylinder ( I fly my engine in inverted "Y" config). While the Keleo is off getting repaired I have fitted the Saito flex exhausts to keep the rubbish outside the cowl (GP Super Stearman) and continued flying.
Then, on the initial start, the lower right cylinder would take some time to cut in and she would run for a while on two. This problem then gradually started to get worse until to my dismay, I could not get the lower right cylinder to light off at all.
I checked and re-checked the electircal connections to my onboard glow and even ended up re-terminating the leads. Changed out the batteries as well. Then I re-checked the valve timing and tightened that up. Still no joy.
I disconnected the on board glow from that cylinder and directly jumped my RCATS glow driver to that cylinder - still nothing.
I removed the riocker hats again and checked the valves. They seem to move freely enough, but I am wondering if one might be sticking at operating temp and then freeing up when I have the hats off?
I might try running the engine with the hats off and see if anything is misbehaving.
Any other suggestions greatly appreciated at this stage as I am starting to run out of hair to pull out [&:]
Cheers TC
I have been flogging my trusty old 170 (yes the same one that blew up a while back) around the sky without problems for some time now.
Recently this changed.
Firstly the Keleo exhaust fractured at a weld joint between the ring and the left lower cylinder ( I fly my engine in inverted "Y" config). While the Keleo is off getting repaired I have fitted the Saito flex exhausts to keep the rubbish outside the cowl (GP Super Stearman) and continued flying.
Then, on the initial start, the lower right cylinder would take some time to cut in and she would run for a while on two. This problem then gradually started to get worse until to my dismay, I could not get the lower right cylinder to light off at all.
I checked and re-checked the electircal connections to my onboard glow and even ended up re-terminating the leads. Changed out the batteries as well. Then I re-checked the valve timing and tightened that up. Still no joy.
I disconnected the on board glow from that cylinder and directly jumped my RCATS glow driver to that cylinder - still nothing.
I removed the riocker hats again and checked the valves. They seem to move freely enough, but I am wondering if one might be sticking at operating temp and then freeing up when I have the hats off?
I might try running the engine with the hats off and see if anything is misbehaving.
Any other suggestions greatly appreciated at this stage as I am starting to run out of hair to pull out [&:]
Cheers TC
06-11-2009, 01:16 AM
#1598
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Reggio Emilia, ITALY
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
ORIGINAL: Thunderchild
Saito 170 Radial question
I have been flogging my trusty old 170 (yes the same one that blew up a while back) around the sky without problems forsome time now.
Recently this changed.
Firstly the Keleo exhaust fractured at a weld joint between the ring and the left lower cylinder ( I fly my engine in inverted "Y" config). While the Keleo is off getting repaired I have fitted the Saito flex exhausts to keep the rubbish outside the cowl (GP Super Stearman) and continued flying.
Then, on the initial start, the lowerright cylinder would take some time to cut in and she would run for a while on two. This problem then gradually started to get worse untilto my dismay, I could not get the lower right cylinder to light off at all.
I checked and re-checked the electircal connections to my onboard glow and even ended up re-terminating the leads. Changed out the batteries as well. Then I re-checked the valve timing and tightened that up. Still no joy.
I disconnected the on board glow from that cylinder and directly jumped my RCATS glow driver to that cylinder - still nothing.
Iremoved the riocker hats again and checked the valves. They seem to move freely enough, but I am wondering if one might be sticking at operating temp and then freeing up when I have the hats off?
I might try running the engine with the hats off and see if anything is misbehaving.
Any other suggestions greatly appreciated at this stage as I am starting to run out of hair to pull out [&:]
Cheers TC
Saito 170 Radial question
I have been flogging my trusty old 170 (yes the same one that blew up a while back) around the sky without problems forsome time now.
Recently this changed.
Firstly the Keleo exhaust fractured at a weld joint between the ring and the left lower cylinder ( I fly my engine in inverted "Y" config). While the Keleo is off getting repaired I have fitted the Saito flex exhausts to keep the rubbish outside the cowl (GP Super Stearman) and continued flying.
Then, on the initial start, the lowerright cylinder would take some time to cut in and she would run for a while on two. This problem then gradually started to get worse untilto my dismay, I could not get the lower right cylinder to light off at all.
I checked and re-checked the electircal connections to my onboard glow and even ended up re-terminating the leads. Changed out the batteries as well. Then I re-checked the valve timing and tightened that up. Still no joy.
I disconnected the on board glow from that cylinder and directly jumped my RCATS glow driver to that cylinder - still nothing.
Iremoved the riocker hats again and checked the valves. They seem to move freely enough, but I am wondering if one might be sticking at operating temp and then freeing up when I have the hats off?
I might try running the engine with the hats off and see if anything is misbehaving.
Any other suggestions greatly appreciated at this stage as I am starting to run out of hair to pull out [&:]
Cheers TC
If in doubt, try moving the glow plugs around and see if the defect follows the glow plugs or remains on the same cylinder.
Also, does that particular cylinder have good compression?
Radial.
06-11-2009, 01:21 AM
#1599
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ocean Reef WA, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Radial Power
Sorry, I neglected to say I had changed plugs for new ones, moved them around between cylinders, taken them all out and glowed outside the engine to visually check brightness of teh elements - all okay.
Yes it has good compression.
Next?
Sorry, I neglected to say I had changed plugs for new ones, moved them around between cylinders, taken them all out and glowed outside the engine to visually check brightness of teh elements - all okay.
Yes it has good compression.
Next?
06-11-2009, 04:44 AM
#1600
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kamen, GERMANY
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Everything Radial Engines
Thunderchild, an engine, or one cylinder of it, needs three elementary things to work, correct fuel / air mixture, compression and ignition. As Your cylinder has compression and ignition, only an incorrect mixture can cause the problem, I think. While the engine is running, there must be coming fuel spray out of the exhaust of the dead cylinder, did You recognize that? Also a stupid question, but perhaps theexhaust is blocked by anything?
gnome
Holm und Rippenbruch
gnome
Holm und Rippenbruch
