Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Greg, For fuel what I did was take a gallon of 15% nitro, 16% oil (20%castor,80%synthetic) wildcat brand,and dilute with straight methanol in gradually increasing amounts as the engine breaks in. Worked well. As far as props go, a 22X12 or a 24X 10 seem ideal. A 22X10 was too small with a bit high rpm. For the wiring harness cut off the double wires and solder on short 10 or 12 guage wire to get a better glow at the plugs

gregquin

Thanks again Maxam.

I don't think I was clear enough in my questions. The ratio of methanol to oil is not my concern. I am more after the brand of oil that is used.

That being said, I investigated the Wildcat brand of fuel and they use Klotz oil. So your info was useful

I plan on not using Nitro in mine. even my single cylinder Saitos only get to sip on 10-15% Nitro.

As for propellers, your earlier post had me ordering a 24*12. Would have ordered a 24*10 but they are out of stock.... So these props are
ok to run the engine in, as well as normal use? I ask because some manufacturers recommend a different size for running in before switching
to a long term "normal" prop.

Greg

jaav

Hi Guys,
Can some one help me.
Will the Magnum 5 cyl Keleo exhaust ring fit the ASP 400?

Ram-bro

My Feedback: (101)

they are the same engine

Felix Barrao

Hello, Greg.
In my Seidel 7-70 I´m using methanol with 7% Klotz techniplate oil, ( 8% for brake in), no nitro at all!! works perfect. steady idle, fast response. Now I´m testing 6% klotz and 1% castor, works perfect too, but a little more smoke.. this would be the same blend as use the Klotz supertechniplate ( synthetic- castor mix).

Check this test

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LL-I2HKxcKE

Regards.
Félix

gregquin

Thanks Felix.

I can get Klotz oil here so between Maxxam using Wildcat fuel (klotz oil in their brand fuel) and you using Klotz as well, I think I know what oil
I will be using.

Using pure synthetic, has anyone noticed rust problems in the Seidels yet?

Wondering if the extra rust protection of a squeak of castor is worth the potential headaches of gummed up valve trains?

Anyone have thoughts on this?

Greg

rwijnhov

Arcording to mister Seidel you should use Fuchs Aerosafe or Aerosynth.

earlwb

If you are not using nitromethane in your fuel, you should be Ok running 100% synthetic oils. it is primariy the nitromethane that causes the corrosion from its impurities or combustion byproducts.

But having a little castor oil in the mix certainly won't hurt anything in my opinon, other than if you ran the engine a lot, it might gum up the valves after a long time. or if you let the engine sit for a long time afterwards the castor oil gets thick and causes a valve to get sticky.
If the engine had sat for a long time and the castor was congealing, I would heat up the engine some to thin and solften the castor oil and probably spray the insides good with WD-40 or something. That would loosen it back up nicely. Then as long as you are using it regularly, it should not be a problem.

I have a Saito 80 i have been running since 1991 and it has had castor oil blended into the oil for many years now. I never had it apart or anything yet. Now I did have a OS FS26 that had a sticky valve from sitting since 1995, but a little heat and some WD-40 had it working again like it was supposed to.

Detlef Kunkel

Hi erveryone,

its me with the "serious attempt" over there on RCSB.

I read these posts here and was smiling. Seems like a lot of people are interesteted in scale engines, and as well in scale sound.
It was the same thinking that led to the idea with the Vee four engine. Keep it light (to be a good aeroplane engine) give it not more cylinders that are needed for a smooth run and a good sound, making the single cylinders as big as possible.
Those Vee 12 and Wasps are truly masterpieces. I can never compete with that level of scale view and detail. But when the focus is on flying, good ratio of power to weight, sound as close to the original as a small model engine can be, I think its better to go with fewer cylinders ( like the moki radials do).
A model engine will NEVER sound like a big Merlin with 30 litres of displacement, it cannot, the physiscs are against you. But you can try to come close. The big moki engines up to the 400 are the best examples for it.

In my Vee four,I hope to hear the same "model-scale-sound" one day, or maybe a little better.
Sound is created by many facts; one of them is concerning valve timing & lift; other things are like displacement, kind of exhaust (dampers), number of pistons, rpm and so on. There really are some things you can do to make a four stroke enginge sound good or bad.

My little project is making some progress, I do hope very much to hear the first vee by the end of 2010.

SJN

Fantastic Detlef.

I realy hope you succeed in making this engine [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Detlef, I wanted to let you know that the turbulator very much made my Moki 150 run much better! I decided that the engine and associated airplane size was too big for me and my workshop and sold the engine to a person who since has become a friend. He has the Moki on a pitts beast. He is totally thrilled with this combination and how well the engine runs. I it great to see "my" engine being flown and enjoyed. Your turbulator is a great product. -Tom Maxam

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Yes Yes Yes!! I hope you succeed too. I really want to see and hear this engine some day. [sm=thumbup.gif]

Dad_Roman

Hi Mr. Kunkel. Id like to give you a big welcome to the forum here and look forward to reading about your new engine project. Best of luck with it.




Would you mind laying out some of these +/- as you have discovered?

Detlef Kunkel

Dad Roman,
Lets pretend we can do what we like and construct an engine. No radial in this case (you can buy these already) , but a Mustangs or Spitfires engine.

Our goal is : really good power output to power up a serious warbird, good power to weight ratio, a nice big prop at the front end, AND a sound that is as close to a Merlin as a model engine can get.

First, and most important because you cannot change it later, is the frequency. A Daimler Benz 605 or Merlin Vee12 is running at maybe 2700 rpm at full throttle. The prop is running with a lower rpm at about 1500 to1600-1. You can recognize that, the frequency is lower than the rpm of the engine ( listen to a starting T-6, its got no reduction gear, and makes an awful noise with the prop on take off)

So you build a model Vee 12. Lets say we giveit240 cc. Its single cylinder displacement is very small (20cc) making it necessary to operate it at high rpms to have some power output at all. If you do want some seriuos power output, we will approach 10.000rpm or more. So its frequency will be 3 to 4 times higher than your faithful merlin. You have build a Ferrari engine, not an aeroplane engine at all. It will not rescue you to give it a reduction drive to get a low tone from your prop, the engine sound will ruin the illusion every time it revvs up..
So whats the fault? The number of cylinders, or your rpm. We cannot build one litre of displacement in a 240cc engine, so no chance to go with 2700 rpm at full throttle. Only chance: reduce the number of cylinders.
To come close to our Merlin, we divide the number by 3 making it a Vee 4. With a Vee 4 running at 8500 rpm, you meet the Merlin frequency exactly. Thats too much for a good efficient prop, so we need a reduction drive. In my case, I went for a 1,7:1 ratio. Roughly calculated we will come out with a 3-blade prop in the diarangeof 33 to 36 inches running at 3500 on take off,andabout 1200 moreat full speed. From former experiences, I know that this really sounds cool. More than 4000 on take off ruins your sound again in the air.
So now we have the right "scale" frequency on the engine, with the rather big displacement of 55 cc per cylinder, the sound character of a single ignition is (in our case here) as low as can be. And also the right character of prop sound; again as good as ´can be with the little model power we produce. Its NO good idea to reduce the prop gear much more, you will get problems in reaching enough speed. OK for a biplane, but defintely not good for a fast warbird.

Next time Iets talk about exhaust systems.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I love all this sexy talk!! [sm=thumbup.gif]

Dad_Roman

Yea I agree! That was one of the more amazing technical write ups I have ever seen and very simple to understand too.

I think Im gonna like this guy a lot

I cant wait to hear the expose' on exhaust. I loved the frequency talk but I guess I am looking for things to adapt to our one lungers to help their sounds too

SOUTHERNX

Hi to all the Seidel 7-70 owners,Swift Models in England have an exhaust ring advertised for this engine for $165.87USD if you live in a country that does't have VAT tax. As these rings are dificult to fabricate formost modelers,one of there may be a worthwile purchase,Cheers,Mark

bakerboat

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone could tell me the overall diameter and length of the Seidel 9 cylinder? Haven't been able to find anything on the web.

Thanks,
Ken

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Ken the engine is 260 mm in diameter which equals about 10 and just under1/4 inch. The length is 5 and 9/16th. -Tom

bakerboat

Thanks Tom.

fredo

Has anyone of you guys who ordered SL150 received anything?

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

I have not got anything yet, I have paid in full. I got some pictures of the motors being assembled. What Luigi told me is that he had a event this weekend and would be finishing up the first batch this next week and start shipping after they were test run and final adjustment. I also ordered the exhaust ring, software, and USB interface but they will not ship with the motor. They will come a little bit later. So far I am pleased with the prompt replies from Luigi and all seems good at this point. I am looking forward to getting the motor and I will provide a full review on this motor. I will probably start a new thread just for SL engines as not to take away from this thread. Here are the last two pictures he sent me of the motor being assembled. Take care.

fredo

I have bought Moki 150 that he had for sale a while ago. I also paid in full on 11 August but to this day I haven't seen it yet. He said he used UPS as a currier. There is a possibility it's held by Customs.

radial1951

Fredo

Easy to track it with UPS. I assume he gave you the Consignment Note number. 6+ weeks is a bit much.

No way Aussie Customs would have anything even 1 week. When / if you get it, the date on the con note will tell all...

What's it going in?

Regards RossG
radial1951

fredo

To be more specific, he said he sent the package on 28 August. I could never figure out why he had to wait so long. So I only go by his statement. If it's true he sent it on 28. August, it's now just over 4 weeks. Now, before that I specificaly asked for tracking or reference number but he never gave me anything. In fact I don't even have his address. I think he is not talking to me because I must've upset him with my email. Well.. my bad. I find Luigi very helpful when it comes to talk about engines. He seems very passionate about what he does but I'm not sure what have I done so wrong.