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blw, that 11 inch prop on the poor little 30 would only work in Texaco trim, if the oportunity arises I will test some 9 inch props on a 30 today. I am havving a day off away from the world. Got my commodore (car) going yesterday and am going out to play in my mates "man cave". No flying (rain and wind around) but we'll play in the shed and do what guys do best there.
Those Bollys are the clubman series and as such will not perform as well as the carbon fibre ones, mind you for sports work they are good and cheaper than the Carbon ones. Not so many tears when you break one. In the carbon fibre versions the variences are many including blade design, tip design, blade cuff width, and blade twist all factors that come into play when you are chasing performance.
That being said they should work well for you
Those Bollys are the clubman series and as such will not perform as well as the carbon fibre ones, mind you for sports work they are good and cheaper than the Carbon ones. Not so many tears when you break one. In the carbon fibre versions the variences are many including blade design, tip design, blade cuff width, and blade twist all factors that come into play when you are chasing performance.
That being said they should work well for you
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Old Fart et al. Had a good day in my mates man cave. Been looking into performance mods to the bigger Saito (in particular) the 115 and 120 and to that end we have made up some cylinder shims to play with while experimenting with fuel mixes. Don't think there is any value playing with cam profiles, but fuel pumps, pressurised tanks and maybe transplanted blowers (ex OS) might be considered though the blower is very low on the list. Even though the effects of the actual operation (not shoulder, that is another matter) still linger it is good to be back plotting and scheming about how to build a better "mouse trap", read faster racer.

I believe you are right mate,hope the birthday went well,couple of taipans?
I think i'm going to stick to my original plan re aeroplane perfomance and horsepower.All the arf's nowadays seem to take bigger saitos easy and you don't need to stick any lead up front then.
It would be shame to see heaps of 182's sitting on the shelf barry,don't know what instruction manual re carb settings you get there,ours is wrong.On the upside makes it worth it.Flew past low last monday and it was nearly ripping an 18x6mas,noisey buggers they are,the boys loved it.
I think i'm going to stick to my original plan re aeroplane perfomance and horsepower.All the arf's nowadays seem to take bigger saitos easy and you don't need to stick any lead up front then.
It would be shame to see heaps of 182's sitting on the shelf barry,don't know what instruction manual re carb settings you get there,ours is wrong.On the upside makes it worth it.Flew past low last monday and it was nearly ripping an 18x6mas,noisey buggers they are,the boys loved it.
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Old far in my younger days I subscribed to the theory that there is no substitute for cubic inches coupled with cubic money when you are seeking performance. Some 40+ years later I see little to modify that idea except for old and sneaky generally beats young and brash, especially now I am "old and sneaky".
One thing that came out of the "man cave" yesterday was a Dave Brown short for a Hughes H1 (100inch I think). It will be put in the building jig and started over the next couple of months for the 2015 races. In addition I have just had confirmed that the plans for both Strega and the Red Baron have become available as well as a couple of others so I'll be perusing them along with a couple of goodyear racer / Formula 1 types in order to get our 2014 building / racing program up and running. In case you are wondering "we" are 3 Old Timer flyers that have decided to teach the "young upstarts" some manners. Should be good fun and just to tie everything in the power plants will be Saitos or varients of same.
catch ya
One thing that came out of the "man cave" yesterday was a Dave Brown short for a Hughes H1 (100inch I think). It will be put in the building jig and started over the next couple of months for the 2015 races. In addition I have just had confirmed that the plans for both Strega and the Red Baron have become available as well as a couple of others so I'll be perusing them along with a couple of goodyear racer / Formula 1 types in order to get our 2014 building / racing program up and running. In case you are wondering "we" are 3 Old Timer flyers that have decided to teach the "young upstarts" some manners. Should be good fun and just to tie everything in the power plants will be Saitos or varients of same.
catch ya
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In one of my lives I am a Quality Assurance consultant to both the Aviation and Mining exploration industries. One of the things I do is look for loop holes and then either exploit or block them depending on who is paying me. There is a national competition coming up and I have reviewed the rules (I will be a part of a team competing) and I have discovered enough "loop hole that you could drive 3 MAC trucks through side by side. Just my scene especially as how I was called on to advise the young bucks who wrote the rules and chose to ignore my "suggestions". Good fun
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blw on that 30 you could consider a 9x6 or x7 from any manufacturer on a "sports setting" you might be surprised. We have been laying with an OS 26 with a 9inch prop as opposed to a 10 inch and it went well
Now back to plotting and scheming.
Now back to plotting and scheming.
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Old Fart et al. Had a good day in my mates man cave. Been looking into performance mods to the bigger Saito (in particular) the 115 and 120 and to that end we have made up some cylinder shims to play with while experimenting with fuel mixes. Don't think there is any value playing with cam profiles, but fuel pumps, pressurised tanks and maybe transplanted blowers (ex OS) might be considered though the blower is very low on the list. Even though the effects of the actual operation (not shoulder, that is another matter) still linger it is good to be back plotting and scheming about how to build a better "mouse trap", read faster racer.
My 12.8:1 CR CDI fired FA180 #W/the 12mm FA220 "Big Bore" carm on a ported 180 manifold made 3.4 HP (8450 RPM W/an 18X8 prop) W/14% Cool Power. It made 3.9 HP (8850 RPM W/an 18X8 prop) when 30% O'Donnell Speed blend fuel was employed.
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Thank you very much Snr Tele, saved me more than a little research time and just the ting w are looking for. Now I hope some of those "yunguns" haven't read this. Will keep you up to speed on what eventuates. I would assume that one would get a performance increase regardless of the ignition source. Once again thanks

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For thoe who are desperate there are a lot of those Saito flat twins around in shops here in OZ, they are N.I.B. and for sale at normal retail prices. Contact Hobby Head Quarters in Sydney for more info.
BTB the sun is past the yard arm and the other 1/2 is about 299kms from here, guess what
BTB the sun is past the yard arm and the other 1/2 is about 299kms from here, guess what

Fnq find an old faulty keyboard,it will fix the spelling thing
Has anyone taken prop figures for the 182t? what about you barry.
Jim i laughed at your use of the word piker,it's a well understood and funny phrase that has always been used here.

Has anyone taken prop figures for the 182t? what about you barry.
Jim i laughed at your use of the word piker,it's a well understood and funny phrase that has always been used here.

Fnq you are a bloody character.What size saito would you fit to a 100" hughes h1? a graceful looking aeroplane.I'm interested from a saito engine point of view re racing.Both the strega and red baron are nice looking aircraft.As you know i have a cm pro 55" midget mustang with saito 115 that is fairly quick.Would that fit into one of the classes over there?

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On a more technical note, I need some advice on fuel. I've been running my FA-100 on 15% nitro, 18% oil (~3% castor). Local experts say I should be using YS 20/20, 20% nitro, 20% synthetic oils. It will give more power (don't really need it!) and better idle (would like that). They also tell me that castor will crud up the valves. So what say you? Are they right and should I go all-synthetic? Of course, the 15% is $15/gal and the 20/20 is $20/gal, and the ounces/minute will certainly be higher for the 20/20.

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On a more technical note, I need some advice on fuel. I've been running my FA-100 on 15% nitro, 18% oil (~3% castor). Local experts say I should be using YS 20/20, 20% nitro, 20% synthetic oils. It will give more power (don't really need it!) and better idle (would like that). They also tell me that castor will crud up the valves. So what say you? Are they right and should I go all-synthetic? Of course, the 15% is $15/gal and the 20/20 is $20/gal, and the ounces/minute will certainly be higher for the 20/20.
That being said, you need to know that almost everyone agrees that I am always out of step but none of my long running Saito engines has had a carbon problem.
YMMV
Ducking behind my home brew fuel ....

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My experience is totally different from Jim's My two oldest Saitos, an .80 from 1989 or there abouts and a 1.50 from 1991 have never been run without castor and have never needed to have the valves cleaned. My late .80s Enya .46 MKII four stroke has never had the valves cleaned either, this amazes me.

I'm always puzzled by the often repeated claim that running castor will gum valves up somehow.I always use 3% castor and 12% synthetic,the inside area around the head and valves is clean as a whistle.Could it be a fuel mix or tuning problem? for some people.