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Old 10-08-2013, 01:26 PM
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You may want to try soaking the cylinder upside down with glow fuel before the PB. That stuff will stink up the whole shop/house.
Old 10-08-2013, 01:34 PM
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Don't know about PB Blaster, never heard of it here in OZ but the stuck valve syndrome is usualy fixed by lying the engine on its side exhaust removed) and pout some methano (or fuel) into the exhaust outlet. It will generally dissolve enough crap to get the valve stem free and then the best "quick fix" is to run the engine. I usually turn the engine over with a starter, (no glo power at first just to free them up). Mind you this is no substitute for what will ultimately be a rebuild.
On WD 40 dare I ask why the big "anti". If you correctly in the areas it is recommended for I have never had any problems on either model or full size a/c.
Old 10-08-2013, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Thanks Jim, Jim and TD for bringing this back to Saito talk. It's a shame it has degraded to Club House talk when there is a real Club House Forum for, other stuff.
Does that include all talk about Harley Davidsons and diesel engines? Ooops.

Last edited by blw; 10-08-2013 at 03:32 PM.
Old 10-08-2013, 02:08 PM
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Question: Will cooking the cylinder in anti-freeze in a crock pot dissolve the goop? Must the valves, springs, keepers and rocker arms be disassembled before the bath?

I ask this because going through some buried stuff I found a crock pot that a friend gave me years ago for the express purpose of engine cleaning. This was probably asked before, but what type of anti-freeze is best for this method of cleaning?
Old 10-08-2013, 03:07 PM
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I'd be worried about o-rings, seals and gaskets being ruined so would only crock pot a totally disassembled engine. I do have one that might get that treatment to get rid of all the caked on castor gunk before I put in new bearings and reassemble it. If it's just the one valve do as suggested above first. I took two of mine apart to clean the valves, but only because I'm 100% comfortable with doing so. I love working on my Saito engines...but they very seldom give me any reason to do so!
Old 10-08-2013, 03:27 PM
  #25581  
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There should be no damage to those parts you mentioned. I wouldn't put in the plated rocker arm covers. Always use the lowest heat setting outside. Still, you should see the valve unstick with either soaking in glow fuel, PB, etc before going the crockpot route unless it's something you just want to try out. You'll like the new engine look if you do.
Old 10-08-2013, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by cubfloater
Thanks Hobbsy, I thought WD40 wasn't good for engines and I just sprayed on top while I was trying to work the valve. I then dried it all off when I tried heat. I've used PB Blaster for some really stuck bolts so I'll try that and I have tried pushing it down some. Will try all tonight. And I want to add some caster to my fuel but don't know where to buy it. Is there any local stores that sell it? Or where can I order? Thanks Hobbsy!
Castor would more likely be a cause of stuck valves, certainly not a cure.
Old 10-08-2013, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by srtelemaster150
castor would more likely be a cause of stuck valves, certainly not a cure.
qft!
Old 10-10-2013, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by retransit
Question: Will cooking the cylinder in anti-freeze in a crock pot dissolve the goop? Must the valves, springs, keepers and rocker arms be disassembled before the bath?

I ask this because going through some buried stuff I found a crock pot that a friend gave me years ago for the express purpose of engine cleaning. This was probably asked before, but what type of anti-freeze is best for this method of cleaning?
You can not boil a diecast aluminum engine part in antifreeze for any length of time or it will turn a dull gray color.

Also the part must be completely submerged for if not completely covered, there will be a water mark at the water line. If you let the water deplete, this water mark will be broad all the way down the part where the water line was.

You must keep the antifreeze warm but not above 160*F.

A potpourri device is safer than a crock pot.

You can use water as make-up for the solution as you are cleaning a part.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-13-2013 at 04:06 AM.
Old 10-13-2013, 04:12 AM
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Sorry Jim, I didn't edit your post I had an errant finger syndrome for a monent. Has anyone considered that the bronze valve seats might dislodge when the cylinder is boiled in antifreeze. I boiled an Enya .46 MKII engine a while back and I had tried to remove the sleeve, it would not budge but when I lifted the engine out the sleeve just fell back into the solution. I didn't expect that.
Old 10-13-2013, 06:52 AM
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To go back to my original question about using a crock pot (post #25582), since I have seen some conflicting info does anyone know for sure:

Will the aluminum stain?
Will guides dislodge?
If the temperature is kept below boiling, is it safe to do?
Old 10-13-2013, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by retransit
To go back to my original question about using a crock pot (post #25582), since I have seen some conflicting info does anyone know for sure:

Will the aluminum stain?
Will guides dislodge?
If the temperature is kept below boiling, is it safe to do?
If the temperature is kept below boiling and the part submerged, it is perfectly safe.
Old 10-13-2013, 10:04 AM
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Okay, thanks.
Old 10-14-2013, 07:14 PM
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Jim, I am supposed to show someone how the Tiger 60 balanced out after I installed the old Saito .80 on it. The Harrly Higley 2oz nut and lock nut balanced it perfectly.The battery is going righ on the CG so I don't think there'll be any change.
Old 10-14-2013, 09:39 PM
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Hobbsy, my .80 is in my Tiger 60 as well! Used to have my Fox .50 in it but changed it out for more low-end oomph. Ended up pulling 3/4oz of the installed weights out to balance it. Now I just need to get out and fly!
Old 10-15-2013, 05:15 AM
  #25591  
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The Goldberg Tiger 60 is one of the smoothest flying planes you will ever experience.
Old 10-15-2013, 05:29 AM
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TD, that one ised to have a Fox .74 Diesels conversion on it.

Jim, I have an unflown Tiger 120 that I've had for a good 10 years. The Saito 1.50 is going on it it as soon as I decide whether or not to C&H Ignition it. You could almost call the Tiger, thought guided.
Old 10-17-2013, 04:15 AM
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Another plane that has not been mentioned here for a while and is a perfect ride for a Saitp .80/.82 is the Bruce Tharpe Flying King. The Saito pictured above spent a lot of time on an FK and a big blue MudDuck. I have a Flying King in the bones, ready to cover, maybe winter will allow that to happen. I never tried a 1.00 on a Flying King.
Old 10-17-2013, 04:26 PM
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I have an almost new Saito 30 BK and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a plane for this engine.....
Old 10-17-2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by tailskid
I have an almost new Saito 30 BK and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a plane for this engine.....


A House of Balsa AT-6 done in yellow would look awesome! My 30 was not the BK version...(put a jealous whine here)
Old 10-17-2013, 05:52 PM
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I'm halfway thru a Sig 4 Star 20 build for a new 30.

The Sig LT 20 is supposed to be a good match, but Sig has priced the kit too high imo.

Maybe these will give you a starting point to find something.
Old 10-18-2013, 10:51 PM
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Put it in an Old Timer, Texaco type suitably scaled to suite. Check out the Society of Antique Aeromodellers Site and you can get some gentle type flying in.
Old 10-19-2013, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by FNQFLYER
Put it in an Old Timer, Texaco type suitably scaled to suite. Check out the Society of Antique Aeromodellers Site and you can get some gentle type flying in.
+1
Old 10-19-2013, 12:27 PM
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I have an old Saito 80 that needed new bearings. When I took it apart the brass sleeve came out of the jug. Now when I re-assemble the engine the brass sleeve moves up and down with the piston about 1/16 or so. Never had this happen before so I am puzzled as to how to secure the sleeve in the jug. Any help would be appreciated.
Old 10-19-2013, 02:21 PM
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On the 30 thing, my old flying mate is at the "not the nationals" old timer comp at Cootamundra as I type this. (I would have been there if it wasn't for the dammed shoulder, which is slowly improving ) He has a duration model (vertical drag racer) powered by a Saito 30 on "steroids" (read nitro) but we both agree that this is not really the best application for the little engine. But never the less it proves the adaptability of the Saito range.

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