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05-26-2014, 06:51 PM
Sounds like a good catch on the fuel. I don 't mind some extra oil either.
Never had much luck with MA props so far. APCs always seem to git it done.
Last edited by blw; 05-26-2014 at 06:56 PM.
05-26-2014, 07:09 PM
Senior Member
The heli fuel I picked up was actually for winter use in my engines. it has a low viscosity lube. It works great in the snow, and I just ran a gallon of it through an OS46LA (worse case scenario LOL) which I inspected afterwards and found no ill effects whatsoever. I use it in both my 46LA and my 65LA with great results , the 46 would rattle at low speed (typical bushing rattle) more than the 65 which I attribute to resonance.
05-27-2014, 02:56 AM
Senior Member
Heavy prop, say a 14x8 MA. I think its called a Classic, it has almost square tips.
And it will be sharp enough to shave with right out of that package.
A lot of guys don't like a MA, but its a great prop on the 1.00.
A heavy prop smooths out the pulses at idle and lets you screw the idle down a bit.
It will run great on 10% fuel. 18 to 20% lube is good.
As long as you get oil out that bypass tube, its all good.
But that low speed needle is very important. They aint bull****tin' ya there.
oh by the way....I wouldn't part with my 1.00
And it will be sharp enough to shave with right out of that package.
A lot of guys don't like a MA, but its a great prop on the 1.00.
A heavy prop smooths out the pulses at idle and lets you screw the idle down a bit.
It will run great on 10% fuel. 18 to 20% lube is good.
As long as you get oil out that bypass tube, its all good.
But that low speed needle is very important. They aint bull****tin' ya there.
oh by the way....I wouldn't part with my 1.00
05-27-2014, 04:10 AM
Hi guys just back in from the shed.Spent last week and the weekend putting together a 46 size deccy to replace the one i crashed last year.I like flying them with the 82 it's nice power and handling combination.This time the 82 is nearly inverted instead of side mount so will see what tuning things happen.I run 10% but if it flies good would like to increase that and see what happens.
05-27-2014, 07:15 AM
05-27-2014, 03:09 PM
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I'm planning to build a Great Planes Giant Decathlon. I can put a Saito 150 in it but I don't have any experience with the motor. I have several FA.91's and 1.00' and think they are great. Can anyone tell me about the FA-150? Thank you in advance.
Capt Lou
Capt Lou
05-27-2014, 03:15 PM
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With regards to my stories (especially those from my time in Malaysia), I know they seem a little "over the top" but believe me they happened. There were a group of very dedicated locals and expats flying in Malaysia during the 90's and we regularly flew off building sites around the capital Kuala Lumpur. Now on that vane did I tell you about visiting the World Model Shop in HK during this time and the interesting times I had with Cindy and Tom. I still have visions of buying 10 metres of Baron covering (ex USA) of the roll rather than in the little amounts I am forced to buy these days. Lastly the workshop is almost finished, the 2.4 metre square bench for the middle of the shop is finished, shadow boards installed just got to lay the floor covering and it will be up and running.
05-27-2014, 04:06 PM
Senior Member
The FA-150 is a great engine. I would opt for the FA-180 myself. Same size footprint & slightly lighter.
05-27-2014, 10:13 PM
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Hi guys just back in from the shed.Spent last week and the weekend putting together a 46 size deccy to replace the one i crashed last year.I like flying them with the 82 it's nice power and handling combination.This time the 82 is nearly inverted instead of side mount so will see what tuning things happen.I run 10% but if it flies good would like to increase that and see what happens.
05-27-2014, 10:21 PM
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What all tends to rust inside of a Saito if abused? I bought a "new" 100 from a guy a while back for a fair (I thought) price. I finally got around to pulling the backplate and rocker covers off and this thing is seriously rusted all over the place!!! Even the valve springs are rusty and it has grown into globs of black crud everywhere. Apparently he had fired it up on the test stand just for a few minutes and then stored it in a wet environment with no after run oil whatsoever. Lesson learned, always pull the backplate off before buying a "new" engine. So.... worst case senerio what all might it need?
05-28-2014, 02:32 AM
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What all tends to rust inside of a Saito if abused? I bought a "new" 100 from a guy a while back for a fair (I thought) price. I finally got around to pulling the backplate and rocker covers off and this thing is seriously rusted all over the place!!! Even the valve springs are rusty and it has grown into globs of black crud everywhere. Apparently he had fired it up on the test stand just for a few minutes and then stored it in a wet environment with no after run oil whatsoever. Lesson learned, always pull the backplate off before buying a "new" engine. So.... worst case senerio what all might it need?
I crashed my PT-19 & chucked it into an un-heated shed on the back of the garage for over 10 years. I didn't even drain the tank let alone inject any ARO into the FA-150 in the cowl. Even though the engine had full synthetic Cool Power fuel used since shortly after being placed into service, the only parts that were rusted where the bearings & they were only lightly coated W/rust. I live 60 yards from a rapids on the St Regis River. It is a very humid environment.
Rust ts can be removed from the valve springs unless they are severely pitted. Bearings are probably the only parts you will have to replace unless the crank journal is rusted. Have a look at the wrist pin also as well so the rocker arm pins & the bores of the rocker arms. The ring may or may not clean up.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-28-2014 at 05:40 AM.
05-28-2014, 03:37 AM
What all tends to rust inside of a Saito if abused? I bought a "new" 100 from a guy a while back for a fair (I thought) price. I finally got around to pulling the backplate and rocker covers off and this thing is seriously rusted all over the place!!! Even the valve springs are rusty and it has grown into globs of black crud everywhere. Apparently he had fired it up on the test stand just for a few minutes and then stored it in a wet environment with no after run oil whatsoever. Lesson learned, always pull the backplate off before buying a "new" engine. So.... worst case senerio what all might it need?
Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 05-28-2014 at 03:38 AM. Reason: bs
05-28-2014, 09:01 AM
Hello guys
I just maidened a Hangar-9 40-size Saratoga with a Fa-125a on it. Nice power to weight ratio.. I'm running the engine with a 15 x6 APC. The throttle management is a must, definitely..
-Artto
I just maidened a Hangar-9 40-size Saratoga with a Fa-125a on it. Nice power to weight ratio..
I'm running the engine with a 15 x6 APC. The throttle management is a must, definitely..-Artto
05-28-2014, 01:58 PM
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With the rusty bits (apart from bearings) if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner it is a good way to go to get the bits cleaned. I would suggest if you go this route, soak all the bits in degreaser first (o/nite) before you ultrasonic them. Works (most times) for me and you get a better idea what you are up for with minimum effort.
05-28-2014, 04:50 PM
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05-28-2014, 05:50 PM
With the rusty bits (apart from bearings) if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner it is a good way to go to get the bits cleaned. I would suggest if you go this route, soak all the bits in degreaser first (o/nite) before you ultrasonic them. Works (most times) for me and you get a better idea what you are up for with minimum effort.
05-28-2014, 10:30 PM
Your 91s with a 15x6 at 9700 is a very impressive engine. I assume this with CDI. My Fa-125 is still on GI and the engine has run 2-3 gallons through it. The peak rpm with an Apc 15x6 is about 9450. I think the the engine is more a torquer and with the 15x6 the engine goes beyond it's torque band. And by the way, there is a video clip in CH Ignitions's youtube channel on a Fa-125a with CDI running on glow fuel and an Evo 15x6 prop. The idle is about 1300 and the peak is 9500 or so. This is with timing at 30° before TDC.
05-28-2014, 10:37 PM
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It puzzles me as to what these people must be doing to engines to have them rust up so severely.
I crashed my PT-19 & chucked it into an un-heated shed on the back of the garage for over 10 years. I didn't even drain the tank let alone inject any ARO into the FA-150 in the cowl. Even though the engine had full synthetic Cool Power fuel used since shortly after being placed into service, the only parts that were rusted where the bearings & they were only lightly coated W/rust. I live 60 yards from a rapids on the St Regis River. It is a very humid environment.
Rust ts can be removed from the valve springs unless they are severely pitted. Bearings are probably the only parts you will have to replace unless the crank journal is rusted. Have a look at the wrist pin also as well so the rocker arm pins & the bores of the rocker arms. The ring may or may not clean up.
I crashed my PT-19 & chucked it into an un-heated shed on the back of the garage for over 10 years. I didn't even drain the tank let alone inject any ARO into the FA-150 in the cowl. Even though the engine had full synthetic Cool Power fuel used since shortly after being placed into service, the only parts that were rusted where the bearings & they were only lightly coated W/rust. I live 60 yards from a rapids on the St Regis River. It is a very humid environment.
Rust ts can be removed from the valve springs unless they are severely pitted. Bearings are probably the only parts you will have to replace unless the crank journal is rusted. Have a look at the wrist pin also as well so the rocker arm pins & the bores of the rocker arms. The ring may or may not clean up.
05-29-2014, 03:13 AM
Respect brother,did you use the standard control throws or heaps more?
05-29-2014, 03:26 AM