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Old 06-06-2014, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by blw
I like trikes okay but prefer tail draggers. Just bring your trike in nose high and do your takeoff roll with up elevator to keep it light on the nose wheel. I had a 12" prop on a Sig Kavalier with a Saito 56. It was a close fit on a freshly cut grass strip, but worked out okay. I remember the grass being high one day and there were mowed little grooves in the grass that evening from all the taxiing around I did. It was kinda funny to actually see the meandering trails cut in the grass.

I have done that too with a T-34 and Apprentice. Those were my only trikes, now everything I fly expect the Twin Otter are tail draggers. I gave the T-34 to a friend and the Apprentice sits on a shelf. The belly of the Apprentice is green from all the grass it chopped up.
Old 06-06-2014, 11:51 AM
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Now, I on the other hand have installed nose gear on a Sig LT 25 and of course moved the main gear back to a suitable spot. The little Saito .30 pulled that thing with authority. Depending on the grass length I ran either a 10x5.5 or 10.5x5. The 10.5x5 would literally jerk the LT 25 out of the grass.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 06-06-2014 at 11:51 AM. Reason: Coprrect spelling
Old 06-07-2014, 06:49 AM
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A trike can make you look good when you grease on a 3 point landing. Like FNQFlyer said, hit the nose wheel first and you look really bad.
Old 06-07-2014, 08:53 AM
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It's more fun to me to drag the tailwheel a few feet before the mains touch.

PS. My little FG11 is purring like a kitten, flight after flight and the handy dandy HDE IR temp gun ($16.50 at Amazon) says that the temp is 210F measured on the fins just under the intake rocker box. (While running at full throttle)
Old 06-07-2014, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by blw
A trike can make you look good when you grease on a 3 point landing. Like FNQFlyer said, hit the nose wheel first and you look really bad.
Especially if it's vertical

Dragging the tailwheel thru the daisies is a lot of fun.
Old 06-09-2014, 04:47 AM
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C'mon guys saitos can't be that boring even if i am.How many times have you had a big shed tidy up and picked up a model you were building at least a year ago? the saito fg57 had been pulled out ages ago for a bulkhead re inforcement and i've just refitted it to the edge 540v3.Figuring out the egyptian hyrographics that pass for fitting marks and finding the right bits they refer to...bit of an adventure.Just got to mark the cowl out for the stubby exhaust pipes they will stick out sideways.If you have ever heard an fg57 or seen one on utube you can imagine what this will sound like with 2" header pipes i can't wait to flick the prop.Running a menz wood 23x10.20:1 klotz 200 95 ron.
Old 06-09-2014, 05:09 AM
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I want to joine! Hafe the time,, l don't even know what ya'll are talking about! LOL.... BUT! l injoy the B*! l'm new to four cycle (SOME WHAT) l have an (OLD) O.S. 90 thats in one of the frist line of the Grate Planes Lanceair. Than I have a Sato 91 in a (OLDER) BT 13. They seem to run the same, the only thing l don't like about the O.S. is that the plug is in the front and makes it kind of scary when l remove the glow starter (Jumpy after l cut off three finger's) on a DL50 after l was priming it to start! but! That was my flaut. l get the E Mails and i did not read at frist, Now moust of the time I do and I larn a lot from it. Keep it up!
Old 06-09-2014, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by slamn sammy
the only thing l don't like about the O.S. is that the plug is in the front and makes it kind of scary when l remove the glow starter
Hi guy!
If you're still running the .90 I've got a hint for you. I ran one for about 10 years and after the first few trips to the field, I got a McDaniels remote glow adaptor. (third item down at this location http://www.radicalrc.com/category/Gl...g-Fittings-223) It never failed me and kept the digits far from the prop.
It also works well for scale ships with cowls.

Nick.
Old 06-09-2014, 02:23 PM
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Old Fart. Good w/end tried a new variations on the competition format (running of) and the Saito far exceeded the drivers cap[abilities. Little b&#@er went like a dream and damm it I will now have to get my NIB one out as my mate wants his back. New comp format gave "competitors" a time fram to complete rounds (bleats could be heard in Brisbane 80k away) but the interesting one was the requests to start fly off (final round) early as the rounds had bee completed ahead of time. The comment "you are back" and at your "radical best" were leveled a number of times but out of 30 competitors 25 are lined up for next year. (Booking the sleeping accomodatio at the field). The poor 36mghz guys were tolds to sort themselves out (they did) and the local hobby shop sold a heap of 2.4 gig gear. Off set the donations to our prize pool. For the record I was beaten to last by a couple of places in the events I competed in. Bloody good w/end with lots of Saitos (mostly 56's) competing and lots of steroids being used (30 to 50%). Interesting every one was complaining about the "odour " of our FAI fuel. more later it is freezing here
Old 06-09-2014, 11:11 PM
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I am puzzled: The glow plug threads of my NEW Saito FA-125 cylinder look worn even though no cross-threading has occurred?? I noticed this when I removed the glow plug to find the TDC while performing valve gap check. The threads still work out and hold the glow plug tight but, as said, look worn. Nothing like this has never happened to me in 20+ years of playing with various glow engines?! As I removed the OS-F plug some small aluminum particles came out along with the plug. (At first I thought it has to do with the running-in process of the engine which wasn't the case)

Anybody else has encountered with the same issue? I always thought you strip the threads if you cross-thread the glow plug first.. (Like I said, I'm sure I never did that)

I have heard Clarence Lee is fixing the stripped threats with very good service at fair price but i don't know if he's still in the business.

The bottom line is, however: What did I do wrong at the first place? Should I have oiled the threads before installing the glow plug or something?

-Artto
Old 06-10-2014, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by AeroFinn
I am puzzled: The glow plug threads of my NEW Saito FA-125 cylinder look worn even though no cross-threading has occurred?? I noticed this when I removed the glow plug to find the TDC while performing valve gap check. The threads still work out and hold the glow plug tight but, as said, look worn. Nothing like this has never happened to me in 20+ years of playing with various glow engines?! As I removed the OS-F plug some small aluminum particles came out along with the plug. (At first I thought it has to do with the running-in process of the engine which wasn't the case)

Anybody else has encountered with the same issue? I always thought you strip the threads if you cross-thread the glow plug first.. (Like I said, I'm sure I never did that)

I have heard Clarence Lee is fixing the stripped threats with very good service at fair price but i don't know if he's still in the business.

The bottom line is, however: What did I do wrong at the first place? Should I have oiled the threads before installing the glow plug or something?

-Artto
I had Clarence replaced a blown out, stripped out brass glow plug insert (dual plug head) a few months back. He is still in business.

As for your worn threads. A burr on the threads of a glow plug is probably the culprit.
Old 06-10-2014, 03:16 AM
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One reason I have not been a fan of the OS-f is that when you lay one beside a Fox Miracle the F appears to have about 1.5 less threads. That makes me nervous. The proper torque for a glow plug is 20-22 inch lbs. On a Fox four way glow plug wrench that is a firm twist but not killer tight.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 06-10-2014 at 03:18 AM.
Old 06-10-2014, 04:44 AM
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I have had a F blow out on me, but the Fox have been reliable, running one for 3 years without a hiccup.
Old 06-10-2014, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by AeroFinn
I am puzzled: The glow plug threads of my NEW Saito FA-125 cylinder look worn even though no cross-threading has occurred?? I noticed this when I removed the glow plug to find the TDC while performing valve gap check. The threads still work out and hold the glow plug tight but, as said, look worn. Nothing like this has never happened to me in 20+ years of playing with various glow engines?! As I removed the OS-F plug some small aluminum particles came out along with the plug. (At first I thought it has to do with the running-in process of the engine which wasn't the case)

Anybody else has encountered with the same issue? I always thought you strip the threads if you cross-thread the glow plug first.. (Like I said, I'm sure I never did that)

I have heard Clarence Lee is fixing the stripped threats with very good service at fair price but i don't know if he's still in the business.

The bottom line is, however: What did I do wrong at the first place? Should I have oiled the threads before installing the glow plug or something?

You are right in what you see.You can buy a female die nut that you screw over every new glow plug before you fit it.Quite often you will see a burr on new plugs,it's usually a bit of the coil wire at the bottom of the plug that is not trimmed off in the manufacturing process.,This is the bit that burrs your threads in the head the first time you fit the new plug.This won't happen so often if you slip a bit of fuel tubing over the top of the new plug when you first thread it into the head,it slips on the plug top if anything is wrong re threading.If all goes smoothly and you can wind a glo plug straight in just using a bit of old fuel tubing to do that..bonus! pull the tubing off and tighten it a quarter turn with a new brass washer,job done.

Fnq there are two of us coming over next year i hope.Good news of yours,do you have a good bar over there,some top notch margaret river wine and a few handrolled cigars to go with the nitro fumes?

ps my good mate has just run a silly nitro mix in an 82 it was fun.

-Artto
pps fnq glad you like the thirty
Old 06-10-2014, 06:15 AM
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I know there Tailgrager, I'm just lazy! LOL... If l wasn't I would still have a finger where a 22X10 on a DL50 wack'd it off! I have one. I don't know who made it? I came off a helly l had before. I don't fly that plane that munch (Kind of a back up) BUT! For my own safety, I need to install it. I'm the 2014 club President and I do need to set a leader example! I had a Old Inya 91 yr's ago, that I got read of because it had the plug up front like that and every time I would fly it, I would have to hold my finger a bet before I would get to fly it! LOL..... I had a Brison 3.2 that had a manual advance on it and it would bite me at least 2 or three times before it would start! Like it's saying "HOW BAD DO YOU RELLY WON'T TO FLY THIS AIRCRAFT?" LOL...... I Thank You for your input and thats what i'm going to do. I keep looking at that plane and I had to have it and I have about 9 flights on it. I try to save my IMAA planes for a event, BUT! I don't go to shows much anymore (About 2 a year) Just a wast of plane. I got a GP,GS,P47 i need to start flying too! Thanks ageen and I will do this for the good of my finger's! Stay out of the trees! and may the sun always shine on your back!(Mine don't it's in my face all day) Later ';-]
Old 06-10-2014, 10:25 AM
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Dan, Dave, Old Fart

thanks for the hints. Now that I think what Dave says about torque values of a glow plug I'm sure I did not over torque the plug. So the burr is probably the culprit, as Dan and Old Fart say. Next time I pick up a new plug I run it through a nut of correct thread size first to clear the plug threads.

Another theory was presented here in the RCU: Was it Eddie Misner or someone who said this phenomenon can happen, if you have a lean run, too. Eddie mentioned the plug "melts" together with the aluminum cylinder head. I do not think this happened as the engine peaked at 9400 rpm with 15x6 Apc and I richened the HS needle to 9000 for flying. I even did not have a cowling to block the airflow. I had light smoke trail on long verticals so I do not think I had any lean run.
Old 06-10-2014, 12:26 PM
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Stripped threads in cylinders. I have my own 1/4 tap of the right persuasion and I find in 90% of cases that all that is required is to run the tap down the hole and all is well. Mind you I do not force the issue if I meet resistence and I put a bit of lubricant on the threads if I remember. That being said all the afore mentioned goes right out the door in the heat of competition which is why I try to trial fit these things before a comp. My ritual in O/T comp is to change the plug (with no other changes) prior to the fly off (final round) and use that plug next time for the "rounds". This saves / prevents complications resulting from less than efficient plugs and gives me a "store" of serviceable plugs to give the field glo plug "bot". (The guy who "just wants to borrow a plug to check and see if his is ok,)
Old 06-10-2014, 12:29 PM
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Another query. Any one seen these starters you can fit to larger engines? Battery powered on board device in the case I observed was operated by one of the T/x aux switches. I was busy and didn't get to investigate further.
Old 06-12-2014, 09:31 AM
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Guys:

I have a question regarding an installation. I am starting a Great Planes Super Decathlon build, and plan to use either a Saito 120 or 150. The plans call for either a side engine mount nor an inverted engine mount. I have several Saito 91's and 100's but I have never mounted a Saito sideways or inverted. Can you tell me the pros and cons you have experienced with these mountings. The only reason the plans call for these style of mountings is to hide the engine in the cowl without cutting it on top for a normal straight mounting.

Thank you in advance for your reply.
Capt Lou
Old 06-12-2014, 10:33 AM
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I have an inverted 100 in my chippie and it starts and runs great. I now have on-board glow for ease of starting ( and keep my fingers away from the prop!) but it ran well without it.
Old 06-12-2014, 10:52 AM
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I had an OS 90 FS mounted sideways and there was zero difference from upright.
I had an OS 120 FS and an Enya 80 FS mounted inverted and there was only one difference, it was a little easier to flood when choking before starting.
After it was running the inverted engine showed no differences either.

I *do* know a guy that mounted his tank a little too high and had trouble adjusting an inverted engine to idle without loading up.
He finally had to put an on board "C" cell NiCad to keep the plug lit during prolonged idles, but I never had trouble personally.

Nick.
PS. I'm currently running a Saito FG11 inverted (gasser) and it runs the same as it did upright. Just have to store it where the plug doesn't fill up from any left over gas and oil in the case.
Old 06-12-2014, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by taildragger1589
I had an OS 90 FS mounted sideways and there was zero difference from upright.
I had an OS 120 FS and an Enya 80 FS mounted inverted and there was only one difference, it was a little easier to flood when choking before starting.
After it was running the inverted engine showed no differences either.

I *do* know a guy that mounted his tank a little too high and had trouble adjusting an inverted engine to idle without loading up.
He finally had to put an on board "C" cell NiCad to keep the plug lit during prolonged idles, but I never had trouble personally.

Nick.
PS. I'm currently running a Saito FG11 inverted (gasser) and it runs the same as it did upright. Just have to store it where the plug doesn't fill up from any left over gas and oil in the case.

Inverting Saito singles makes a significant difference in the carburetor centerline & can lead to issues W/the tank C/L being too high as a result.

The 2 applications where I have mounted my Saitos inverted actually improved the carburetor/tank C/L relationship due to the relatively high crank C/Ls.

Your FG-11 has a pumper carburetor that regulates fuel flow so it is not that critical a far as tank location when mounting it inverted.

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Old 06-12-2014, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
Your FG-11 has a pumper carburetor that regulates fuel flow so it is not that critical a far as tank location when mounting it inverted.
Ah yes, I forgot about that, still thinking in glo terms.
Seems as though my buddy of old had a Saito but I'm not sure, it had the carb mounted even with the exhaust port way up on the cylinder, kind of like the old HP but with rockers instead of a rotary valve and being in a scale model inverted but couldn't lower the tank enough (and there were no regulators that we knew of back then)
Old 06-13-2014, 05:34 AM
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Cap Lu, i don't know if i can help? I have a Sato 91 in a (Don't know what kit it is) a BT13 inverted and a O.S.90 in a Grate Planes Lanzair Mt'd, on it side. The O.S. had to have a pump to be have, it just would not run right? it would run lean one flite than ritch the next?? The Saito (Inverted) To date, No Porb! I think if u have the gas tank on the same leavel as the carb, you will not have any problem at all. I my slef would install a DLE20RA (GAS) In what you would save in fuel a year you could go by a new plane! LOL.... I have a DLE20RA in a (OLD) Fly Boy Chipmunk thats all wood, dun in a RCAF skeem, I also have a DLE35RA in a Grate Planes Super Chipmunck that is fibergass and wood, both are 120-180 planes. My brother has the same Super Chipmunk with a satio 180 in it and mine will outperform his and he will get 4-5 flights out of a gal, of fuel and I can fill up and fly most of the day, (RELLY). Hope this helped. Also the 35 with a three blade prop will pull the guts out of the Chipe! I'm using a 16X10 three blade and a 18X8 Master Air two blade. Keep flying.
Old 06-13-2014, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by slamn sammy
Cap Lu, i don't know if i can help? I have a Sato 91 in a (Don't know what kit it is) a BT13 inverted and a O.S.90 in a Grate Planes Lanzair Mt'd, on it side. The O.S. had to have a pump to be have, it just would not run right? it would run lean one flite than ritch the next?? The Saito (Inverted) To date, No Porb! I think if u have the gas tank on the same leavel as the carb, you will not have any problem at all. I my slef would install a DLE20RA (GAS) In what you would save in fuel a year you could go by a new plane! LOL.... I have a DLE20RA in a (OLD) Fly Boy Chipmunk thats all wood, dun in a RCAF skeem, I also have a DLE35RA in a Grate Planes Super Chipmunck that is fibergass and wood, both are 120-180 planes. My brother has the same Super Chipmunk with a satio 180 in it and mine will outperform his and he will get 4-5 flights out of a gal, of fuel and I can fill up and fly most of the day, (RELLY). Hope this helped. Also the 35 with a three blade prop will pull the guts out of the Chipe! I'm using a 16X10 three blade and a 18X8 Master Air two blade. Keep flying.
My FA-180 will spin an 18 X 8 @ 8450 & it will fly for hours on a gallon of 15% Cool Power.

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