Rudolph Hart

You mean the 46 size one's that come with arf's like the decathlon? yes saito fourstrokes don't like them very much.The last one that exploded embedded bits in another model i had sitting beside the engine bench plus i drilled a guy right in the ahh you know where at the club on a flying day a few years back when i had one on a fa62,he was impressed...so i bought him a few beers later and we did some benchracing,much safer.

ps you get sick of sweeping the bits off the shed floor too.

acdii

Only plastic spinners I have are on small 4 strokes, OS 52, and one on a 91 Magnum. All the larger ones are either metal or none at all. Need something for my Cub and Corsair.

FNQFLYER

Bolly props. I used to get all my carbon fibre ones balanced at the factory, the clubmans that came my way all required a degree of balancing once the flash etc was removed. As a rule Bolly props of all types were very well made. APC props, stretched another blade yesterday, on a new Irvine 25 that appears to have been run in. I am wondering if I actually balanced it but in my defence I have found that product also pretty good in that area of late. On the nitro thing we were running a YS 53 on an 11x7 wooden prop yesterday and the thing would not accelerate, problem fixed when we moved away from the FAI fuel and in the end actually got 11,000 RPM out of it on 15%. (We forgot the usual YS fuel).
Weather looks good so the Saito 30 gets a work out today. I am still coming to terms with living 10 minutes from what visitors call the best field in OZ (refer latest RCMN) but I am doing my best.

FNQFLYER

Old Fart the best spinners for general sports use are the Dubro ones in my opinion. They make one for every engine and the big side of the starter cone fits them well.

earlwb

The plastic spinners are OK. Granted I like the metal ones more though. But the plastic spinners tend to help protect the crankshaft from getting bent in a nasty crash. Now then tthere are some crappy plastic spinners. Usually the not so good ones come with the low cost ARF kits mostly. The plastic spinners with a metal backplate are almost as good as the all metal spinners too. The CB Associates plastic spinners tended to be the best of the metal backed type. The cast metal spinners aren't quite as good as the CNC machined ones though.

Rudolph Hart

Thanks for the link to cb earl,i'd never heard of them.As fnq says we get by with dubro spinners here i really like them.Hoping to post a piccy after this with the offending spinner on my saito 82 in sight before it went west,and in every other direction.

I've just cleaned out the spare parts cupboard for my saito engines,do you ever wonder if you are suffering from a mild case of alzheimers?? sometimes i do.Pretty interesting finding all that stuff again.How you end up with ten full sets of gaskets for an 82 i don't know and i thought there were enough props already.I've got a brand new spare carb for an 82 and vaguely remember loosing the spring that sits behind the barrel way back but i've just found two spare new one's which has prompted me to ask this question.How many times do you reorder stuff guys?

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that it would...I forgot.



I don't think our fuels get chilled enough to worry about even though we may have carburetor ice from time to time which can be countered by several methods (wrapping the updraft tube in foil that touches the back of the jug works...)

earlwb

You are welcome, It looks like MECOA picked up all the CB Associates stuff and are selling the spinners again too.
http://www.mecoa.com/cb/spinners.htm

The cool thing about the CB Associates spinners was the aluminum prop nut was made in just about any thread size imaginable. They used to sell to the Hobby Shops a plastic parts box with a hundred or so different size prop nuts metric and SAE sizes for all of the engines. So one could fit the spinner to just about anything. But the spinners weren't too good for four stroke engines, unless you double nutted them of course.

A good metal CNC machined spinner is still about the best to get. The idea being it is better balanced and doesn't impart any extra vibration into the engine and you would theoretically get a little more RPMs out of the engine. But unless you are in competition, going with a good metal spinner doesn't really gain you anything. But they are nice though and if you have them do go ahead and use them.

FNQFLYER

Ice build up has as much to do with "relative humidity" as it does cold. I really have only had ice problems on model a/c engines in humid areas and running relatively rich mixtures. High nitro is also a possible cause. So the dilima is run lean which equals hot and break engine or run "fat / rich" and breal aeroplane. Interesting. Me I am still coming to terms with my first real winter" since before I becam an OAP.
arl plastic spinners with metal back plates are ok, but. Big problem with spinners is getting proper prop clearence, lots of people don't consider that and as a result spinner cuts into blade cuff. On Dubro spinners, at field yesterday we were treated to the sight (twice) of propellors spinning on the engine shaft as the a/c (an o/t) landed. Gues what both had un done in flight, never happened before but the spinners were still attached and another good Bolly was saved. Saito ran well in the cold.

Rudolph Hart

He's exagerating(sp?) fnq lives in a very temperate climate,not doughting what he says about icing,it's a full scale hazard.Would that be seen in it's early stages on the ground re intake fuel charge temp? if there's condensation on the outside of the inlet tube ask any aircon tech what temp he thinks the gas flowing thru that pipe is at.I've tuned both lsn needles on my fa182 by looking at the size of the water droplets on the outside of the two intake tubes from the coldest to the hottest part of the tube.Is a cold air inlet necessary?

SrTelemaster150

A cold air inlet would probably be beneficial on a large radial in a closed cowl situation where there was limited openings due to scale considerations.

Some guys running the FG-84R3s are having overheating issue so it stands to reason that the air inside the cowl would be hot. Even an FA-450R3 in a similar application would probably benefit.

acdii

The one thing I have always done is made sure there is plenty of clearance between the prop and hub, and trim out anything close to the blades, then made sure they have a nice smooth radius using 220 sandpaper. Have not had a single spinner issue this way. My only gripe is the starter burns into the spinner and you cant clean it off.

BTW any suggestions for cleaning up the dirt on my 100? I dont want to stick it under a faucet to wash it off, or use something that could clear the oil out.

earlwb

acdii, I do use the faucett and a toothbrush, etc to clean off engines that have gotten dirty, especially after a crash into dirt for example. I use hot water, and dry the engine off, then oil it up.The water isn't going to hurt it.

acdii

Alright, just afraid of getting any water in the crank case.

earlwb

Well one can plug the vent and then plug the carb and exhaust. Then wash the heck out of it. But it isn't a big deal to flush out the engine when done and oil it back up OK. We used to have engines get dunked all the time with boats and seaplanes. What I usually do to flush out a engine is use a generous amount of WD-40 (water displacement oil) then use my favorite after run oil to lube it up good. Anyway water doesn't hurt the engine, just dry and oil it up after you wash it off.

Now for baked on stuff, I use Dawn Power Dissolver. That is when I am needing to rebuild or do a serious cleaning inside and out. It gets washed good with hot water there too. Just dry and oil when you are done.

DaveyMo

New topic here from a new Saito owner. I like to run my .30 in a vertical mount and start it by hand. I've followed the usual Saito engine priming advice involving plugging the muffler and propping over, etc. to no avail (the prime just runs out onto the ground). As I see it, the problem is to get a shot of priming fuel up into and beyond the intake manifold's right angle bend. To solve this problem, I built a squeeze bottle primer using a short length of brass tubing, blocked on the business end, with a hole drilled on its side. Threading the tubing up through an open throttle, I can shoot the prime right where it needs to go. My question: Is there an easier way to prime this mill in this configuration, or is this as good as it gets? Thanks!

Dave Mo...

FNQFLYER

Old Fart, I now live at Rosewood just west of Amberley (-1) the other night. But I would have liked to have you around telling me how "warm it was" at Chillagoe a couple of years ago (same latitude as Cairns about 200km west) when we were all freezing as well. For reference more height = less air temp, the faster you go (unless you are in an SR71) the colder it gets the higher you get and this fact is as applicable to model a/c as it is to full size a/c. That being said I have not had a lot of ice problems with model a/c but heaps with full size, The most recent being with a 310 on the cape, but that is not the topic here.
Re that Saito 30, finger over the exhaust, (but not for to long) application of a good shot of power to the glo and a good starter and no problems for me any way.

Rudolph Hart

Change your location details i've got alzheimers remember ??

Davey my fa30 is inverted also in a pheonix rainbow.You loose a little on the prime but it fires up easy enough with a flick of the prop when you get used to it.From memory...(i hav'nt flown it for a while) i was overpriming it slightly then flicking the prop thru a few times to get the fuel right into the cylinder.You could invert the plane to prime it or open the throttle slightly and hit it with a starter.What prop are you running and what do you think of saito's so far?

ps fnq when are you going to post some piccys?

Rudolph Hart

Here's a piccy of my fa200r3.Ok it's still mounted on a piece of soft pine,but now it's thru bolted!

For all the aussies i've included a can of vb for you,that and the smell of nitro and castor oil plus a havana cigar...what more would you want ?

the pope

Whats that cats pee in the bottom righthand corner ? Do you get a carton for a shameless plug ? And I don't mean a glowplug . How many multi cyl. do u have ? Im getting very jealous although I have a 100 twin which pales into insignificance compared to your collection . I might have to drag it out of the cupboard and drool all over it seeing that the misses is out of town for the next day or two . One of those little purchases that she doesn't know about . Ahh the joys of marriage Cheers the pope
Whoops just saw the bottom 1/2 of your post . Westend draught rules but Bundy is the bomb .

Rudolph Hart

Pope wake up,if you sneak the 100 twin out and run it while the handbrake is away you know your gonna get busted man.They can smell nitro and castor oil like foreign perfume mate,no matter how many times you have a shower afterwards.If you do go crazy and run it what prop are you using and how much nitro ?

taildragger1589

That was my method on the OS FS-60 Four Stroke when vertical. Choke it three times then flip it a few times before removing finger. Then hook the battery and bump it backwards. Worked every time.

Nick

DaveyMo

Some good responses here, gents. OF: the prop is a 10" Master Airscrew (perhaps a 3 or a 4). Very pretty engine in gold and black, it's a favorite. I've not built anything for it yet, but I'm kind of a control line fan and envision something with 2.4 gig throttle control that shows off the engine. Will have to see. Would I be better off with a different prop? FYI, I'm really a fan of off-beat engine designs (four-stroke, diesel, old gas ignition) on a small budget.

Taildragger: I too have had good results flicking backwards when I get the prime just right. The Saito 30 doesn't have an intake choke - perhaps I can rig something up. At any rate, the primer bottle I have works or I can just invert the engine.

Perhaps a starter is in my future, but presently it's hand propping only.
Thanks to both of you!

Davey Mo

acdii

Are these a bit hard to prime? I noticed when starting the 100 before it became one with the earth that it took a bit of spinning with the starter before it popped off. First pop off it ran backwards. Whats funny is I have had it start backward, then pop and run the correct direction. Since I have only ran it up 4 times so far, I dont know if it wasn't starting due to fuel or if the battery on my hotshot was low. I had switched to the panel clip to see the ammeter.

taildragger1589

I was happiest running an 11/7 MA on my old OS 40 FS (Pulling a 5 lb. Balsa USA Taube) so I guess a 10/6 or 10/7 would do well on a 30.
I've heard you can choke an engine by putting your finger over the exhaust instead of the carb, but haven't tried it yet. But to start by bumping backwards, you *must* have two things... a very strong glow batt for a very bright plug and a lot more prime than you would normally have, seems to me I need twice the choking for bump starting.

RE. offbeat, I have a GHQ you'd love.