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#2701
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a 14x4 is about equal to a 12x6 and that's a prop one would use on a 60 two cycle engine. A good one would turn a 12x6 at least 12,000. You want to prop a 4 cycle for around 9000 rpm.
#2702
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ORIGINAL: William Robison
That 14x4W is not enough prop. Recommend you go at least to a 6" pitch, the four stroke engines don't turn the rpm needed for good air speed with 4" pitch. And you may want to go up an inch in diameter also.
That 14x4W is not enough prop. Recommend you go at least to a 6" pitch, the four stroke engines don't turn the rpm needed for good air speed with 4" pitch. And you may want to go up an inch in diameter also.
I use a 14x4W on my 82 because I run just 10% nitro and fly 3D. This engine/prop combination is great for 3D flying. It gives huge amounts of static thrust and althouth it does rev to just over 10,000 RPMs on the ground, you use full throttle so sparingly that I don't think there's any chance of engine damage even if it reaches 11,000rpms for very short periods in the air.
It's also worth remembering that most 3D planes tend to fall apart if the airspeed gets too high so a larger, lower-pitched prop like the 14x4W also acts as a bit of a safety valve for those who might accidentally get carried away with the throttle when they shouldn't :-)
Those running more nitro (20%+) for 3D would benefit from going to a 15x4W on the .82.
My only concern with using a 14x4W during break-in is that it's not going to move as much air over the engine as (say) a 13x6 or 14x6 might -- because of the lower pitch. I broke my 82 in on a 13x6 because it was a relatively light load and kept things really cool.
#2703
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XJ:
Good points, thanks for chimig in.
I'm not a "3D" type, and usually think more on the pitch speed, and the chance of over speeding the engine. With a 4" pitch it would be really easy to do.
Bill.
Good points, thanks for chimig in.
I'm not a "3D" type, and usually think more on the pitch speed, and the chance of over speeding the engine. With a 4" pitch it would be really easy to do.
Bill.
#2704
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Hello, I got a question on how to fix the glow plug threads on my saito 82. I pulled the plane off the wall and t=starting going through it and went to change the plug out for a new one and it didint tighten. The threads are gone. I havent found anything in a search for fixing this. Any help or info would be appreciated, Thanks
#2705

somewhere in the high 8s and maybe in the low 9s would be normal for that prop goneflyin. but will take leaning before you even get close.
#2706
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ORIGINAL: William Robison
XJ:
Good points, thanks for chimig in.
I'm not a "3D" type, and usually think more on the pitch speed, and the chance of over speeding the engine. With a 4" pitch it would be really easy to do.
Bill.
XJ:
Good points, thanks for chimig in.
I'm not a "3D" type, and usually think more on the pitch speed, and the chance of over speeding the engine. With a 4" pitch it would be really easy to do.
Bill.
-----------
I have the same problem, Bill.
It is difficult getting your head around a super light model that will fly well at 15 mph. Most of my traditional models have a stall speed of well over 20 mph. A 4" pitch prop would have to spin at over 12K rpm in order to fly my traditional models satisfactorily.
I have a Saito .82a (actually, two of them) that I am going to install in a Funstar 3D soon. Hopefully, this model will pick up where my OS .32F-H powered Florio Stunt Wagon left off some years ago. The latter I used to fly the old control line stunt patterns with and at the same altitude. I suspect the new models will do the job even better and with much more power reserve at ultra low airspeeds.
#2707

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I've built 4 planes over the winter with Saitos on them all. 2-100's and 2-125's. I have'nt even started them yet and have never flown with a Saito but I've heard such great things about them I decided to use them on these planes. I'm sure I wont be disapointed!
#2708

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Olds455,
Those are usually fixed with a heli-coil insert. You can find them, but to get yourself set up to do it costs a lot of $$.
Instead, check out MA and MAN Magazines (and perhaps RCReport as well, not sure) for an ad from Clarence Lee. He's been writing an engine column for years, so he knows his business. I don' t have the prices right now, but believe that that's all in the ad. If you have a Saito, you can disassemble it yourself, or send it to him and he'll do it, for a higher fee.
Let me know if you can't find the information, and I'll look it up for you.
Bob
Those are usually fixed with a heli-coil insert. You can find them, but to get yourself set up to do it costs a lot of $$.
Instead, check out MA and MAN Magazines (and perhaps RCReport as well, not sure) for an ad from Clarence Lee. He's been writing an engine column for years, so he knows his business. I don' t have the prices right now, but believe that that's all in the ad. If you have a Saito, you can disassemble it yourself, or send it to him and he'll do it, for a higher fee.
Let me know if you can't find the information, and I'll look it up for you.
Bob
#2709
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Bill R.
have you seen the adds for the OS 70-4 stroke? Do you think that that type of pressurization system would work on a Saito 180?
have you seen the adds for the OS 70-4 stroke? Do you think that that type of pressurization system would work on a Saito 180?
#2711
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ORIGINAL: BQuartucy
Bill R.
have you seen the adds for the OS 70-4 stroke? Do you think that that type of pressurization system would work on a Saito 180?
Bill R.
have you seen the adds for the OS 70-4 stroke? Do you think that that type of pressurization system would work on a Saito 180?
----------------
I'm not Bill, but, yes, that system will work with any suction fed glow engine, two or four stroke. It originated in control line stunt, believe it or not.
#2712

hi guys, i noticed that on my saito 100 carb, when i rotate it back past the idle position and keep going to closed that on the other side there is the start of a hole. is this just the other side of the inlet hole on the rotor part or is it something i don't know about?
#2714
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ORIGINAL: sb13
I've built 4 planes over the winter with Saitos on them all. 2-100's and 2-125's. I have'nt even started them yet and have never flown with a Saito but I've heard such great things about them I decided to use them on these planes. I'm sure I wont be disapointed!
I've built 4 planes over the winter with Saitos on them all. 2-100's and 2-125's. I have'nt even started them yet and have never flown with a Saito but I've heard such great things about them I decided to use them on these planes. I'm sure I wont be disapointed!
-------------
Saito makes really good engines, but they aren't perfect, regardless of what you read here. They have their pros and cons, just like every other brand of engine.
Conversely, they must be pretty good since I have bought six of them in the last year. <G>
#2717

Clarence F. Lee MFG Co.
10112 Woodward Ave.
Sunland, CA 91040
818-352-3766
All you have to do is send your engine( or cyl head )and a check!. It will be back to you shipping included very fast ( I just sent one from the East Coast and got it back well within 2 weeks.
No hassle , expert repair job, vary fair price.
bl
10112 Woodward Ave.
Sunland, CA 91040
818-352-3766
All you have to do is send your engine( or cyl head )and a check!. It will be back to you shipping included very fast ( I just sent one from the East Coast and got it back well within 2 weeks.
No hassle , expert repair job, vary fair price.
bl
#2718
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WOW,...105 pages and I am finally caught up,.what an education! I feel like I have done the Vulcan mind meld with William Robison - Thanks Mr. R! I was actually able to use a few of the tuning techniques to make my 100 run like a top this weekend (gotta love that pinch test!) I would love to get a copy of your Saito notes Mr. R ( I will send you a PM with my email)
Thanks again to all that have contributed!
Saito 72 -Edge 540 profile
Saito 100 Ultra Stick 60
Saito 125 Edge 540 60
Thanks again to all that have contributed!
Saito 72 -Edge 540 profile
Saito 100 Ultra Stick 60
Saito 125 Edge 540 60
#2719

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If I sat and read all 105 pages of this forum, I'd feel more like I'd had Spock do that neck pinch thing
Saito 1.00 question: I just mounted one on my WACO, in place of the .80 that was once there. The .80 was flawless, idled down around 2000, turned a 14-6 MA K-series prop at about 9400-9500 rpm. The 100 is mounted sideways, just like the .80 was (even used the same mount) and I am running a straight pipe with the 90 degree elbow, same as the .80. The pressure tap is right at the joint where the flex pipe joins the elbow, and worked well for the .80
The 100 idles fine, the low end screw is at 3-1/2 turns out, a little fat, and I have the high end needle at 2-1/2 turns. I'm burning Cool Power 15% 4-S (castor/ syn blend). It fires easily and runs great-----up to about half to 2/3 throttle, then it will sag and die, or rev and die when I go to full throttle. It does better if I advance throttle slowly above 1/2. If I look down the throttle bore, when the stick is wide open, the bore is full open also. I get good smoke all through the throttle range. I am still using the 14-6, and I get tach readings of about 10,400 to just under 11,000 when the engine starts doing its high-end shenanigans. Am I under-propped and floating the valves? Now understand, I'm not taking it wide open and leaving it there; I am continually varying the throttle, but staying mostly in the 3500-6500 range while I break it in. I'm not flying it, just running it in the chocks until I get about three full tanks (36 oz total) through it and work out this glitch. I've been through three tanks as of today, response has improved and running is smoother, except for this high speed thing. I have tried many combinations of low and high needle, leaner on bottom , richer on top, vice-versa, and in between, and the top end still does the same thing. I even limited the end-point on the throttle so the carb barrel only opened enough to allow about 9500 rpm, and that is the only thing that really made a difference. Should I load the engine more with a larger prop? I don't want to turn the engine that high (past about 9750 or so) for normal use, but a 15 inch prop is pushing my ground clearance. It will work, but maybe a 14-8 might be better?
One other thing, my spraybar is exactly 7/16 above the centerline of the tank.
Any observations, advice, etc is appreciated.

Saito 1.00 question: I just mounted one on my WACO, in place of the .80 that was once there. The .80 was flawless, idled down around 2000, turned a 14-6 MA K-series prop at about 9400-9500 rpm. The 100 is mounted sideways, just like the .80 was (even used the same mount) and I am running a straight pipe with the 90 degree elbow, same as the .80. The pressure tap is right at the joint where the flex pipe joins the elbow, and worked well for the .80
The 100 idles fine, the low end screw is at 3-1/2 turns out, a little fat, and I have the high end needle at 2-1/2 turns. I'm burning Cool Power 15% 4-S (castor/ syn blend). It fires easily and runs great-----up to about half to 2/3 throttle, then it will sag and die, or rev and die when I go to full throttle. It does better if I advance throttle slowly above 1/2. If I look down the throttle bore, when the stick is wide open, the bore is full open also. I get good smoke all through the throttle range. I am still using the 14-6, and I get tach readings of about 10,400 to just under 11,000 when the engine starts doing its high-end shenanigans. Am I under-propped and floating the valves? Now understand, I'm not taking it wide open and leaving it there; I am continually varying the throttle, but staying mostly in the 3500-6500 range while I break it in. I'm not flying it, just running it in the chocks until I get about three full tanks (36 oz total) through it and work out this glitch. I've been through three tanks as of today, response has improved and running is smoother, except for this high speed thing. I have tried many combinations of low and high needle, leaner on bottom , richer on top, vice-versa, and in between, and the top end still does the same thing. I even limited the end-point on the throttle so the carb barrel only opened enough to allow about 9500 rpm, and that is the only thing that really made a difference. Should I load the engine more with a larger prop? I don't want to turn the engine that high (past about 9750 or so) for normal use, but a 15 inch prop is pushing my ground clearance. It will work, but maybe a 14-8 might be better?
One other thing, my spraybar is exactly 7/16 above the centerline of the tank.
Any observations, advice, etc is appreciated.
#2721

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I've been experimenting with props on my 1.00, the 14x6 is small even though it's on the recommended list, I was running mine with a 12.5x7 three blade Graupner and getting 9,590 on 10% WildCat PE. I'm putting it on my Tigre 60 and am running it with a Cline regulator, it throttles so cleanly with the Cline I'm leaving it on.
#2722
Banned

Well I've been jabbering on this thread for a couple weeks now. I decided to go down and find out exactly how many saitos I really owm. I found two more boxes of engines I forgot I had. In the process I found two old open rocker 30's I thought I sold. I have a little Pilot QB20L with an OS 26 that I never could get run right right. Took out one of the 30's and fired it up in the test stand. Runs great so out comes the OS and in goes the little old Saito 30. Only problem is it's a lot wider than the OS.
One little note, I haven't used it in 25 years. I filled it full of marvel mystery oil and put in in a plastic bag in its box. It was absolutely spotless inside. Not one speck of rust. That's why I use the stuff.
Oh by the way there were over 30 saito engines from the little 30's to a couple 120's.
One little note, I haven't used it in 25 years. I filled it full of marvel mystery oil and put in in a plastic bag in its box. It was absolutely spotless inside. Not one speck of rust. That's why I use the stuff.
Oh by the way there were over 30 saito engines from the little 30's to a couple 120's.
#2723

if your still breaking it in they should be flush with throttle arm on the low and 5 turns out on the high speed.you should stay at these settings at least 40 full minutes and according to the book you should not exceed 4000 rpm

#2725
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KH:
As Hobbsy said, and I think I've said before also, the 14x6 isn't enough prop on your FA-100 engine. If the airplane will not allow a 15" prop you might try a 14x8, or for better low speed performance try a 14x6 three blade prop. I know, not scale, but when it's turning you can't count the blades.
Your description of the engine run is classic lean on the high speed needle. Alternately, as Gary said, it might well not be ready for high speed, and needs more running time.
-------------------------------
Egbert:
Welcome sir, you are in as number 262 in Club Saito.
Bill.
As Hobbsy said, and I think I've said before also, the 14x6 isn't enough prop on your FA-100 engine. If the airplane will not allow a 15" prop you might try a 14x8, or for better low speed performance try a 14x6 three blade prop. I know, not scale, but when it's turning you can't count the blades.
Your description of the engine run is classic lean on the high speed needle. Alternately, as Gary said, it might well not be ready for high speed, and needs more running time.
-------------------------------
Egbert:
Welcome sir, you are in as number 262 in Club Saito.
Bill.