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Old 10-19-2014, 03:24 AM
  #27926  
Hobbsy
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I had the pump/large carb option for my 2.20, it is a poor set up compared to the Cline and Iron Bay regulators. The article linked above all but says so.

Here is my old .80 timed at 31 degrees and ready try out. Due to its 15.5 to 1 compression ratio I'm trying it at 31 btdc. It is obvious that I need to strip the .80 down and refinish it. It's been knocking around for about 25 years. Pulling the backplate yesterday, the rear bearing is as shiny and clean as when new.
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Old 10-19-2014, 04:45 AM
  #27927  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
There is so much excess crankcase oil in any half well tuned saito engine that saying 10% lube is cool for a cdi converted engine is like saying jeez why convert it in the first place.Castor smells good.
Are you trying to make a point?
Old 10-19-2014, 05:27 AM
  #27928  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I had the pump/large carb option for my 2.20, it is a poor set up compared to the Cline and Iron Bay regulators. The article linked above all but says so.
The main problem W/the Saito pump is the willingness or understanding of the user to adjust the regulator. The carburetor needles & the pump regulator can be adjusted to tailor fuel delivery. If midrange/transition is too rich, merely back out the regulator needle/then revisit the HSN.

I used the pump/regulator on my high compression FA-180 to cure the surging problem @ WOT.

As far as the difficulty of injecting after run oil?

Nothing could be simpler. Just inject several drops oil into the inlet check bell & rotate the engine. The negative pressure in the case will effeciently suck the oil into the case. By repeating that, the case can literally be filled with oil.
Old 10-19-2014, 07:06 AM
  #27929  
Quikturn
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I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron but not sure if I can make one at this point. I like the idea of the Saito pump system. Properly tuned, it should add reliability (esp during the up lines) and allow you to tune the engine closer to peak on the ground.

When I first took off the backplate on my Saito 65 I was amazed at how much oil was in the crankcase. The main culprit is having too long of a drain line where excess oil moves back and forth in the line instead of being expelled.

What is the weight penalty for having a glow CDI setup?
Old 10-19-2014, 07:16 AM
  #27930  
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Originally Posted by Quikturn
What is the weight penalty for having a glow CDI setup?

There is none for an engine of sufficient size, say .91 up.

You can instal a fuel tank that is 25% smaller for the same flight time thus reducing weight & freeing up some pace for the module.

Going from a 16oz tank to a 12oz tank will lighten the fuel load by about 4oz, more than enough to make up for weight of the module & battery.
Old 10-19-2014, 02:38 PM
  #27931  
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Im looking at my 1/5th Cub with the 100 on it, and thinking it may be too much engine. I dont think I will cowl it for now, see how it performs first, then if it is too much, will see about finding a 60 size for it instead. It sure looks good on it though.
Old 10-19-2014, 03:53 PM
  #27932  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Im looking at my 1/5th Cub with the 100 on it, and thinking it may be too much engine. I dont think I will cowl it for now, see how it performs first, then if it is too much, will see about finding a 60 size for it instead. It sure looks good on it though.

Heck, I'm trying to get the $$$ together for an FA-115 for my 1/5 J-3 Cub.
Old 10-19-2014, 05:39 PM
  #27933  
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Horizontal or inverted?
Old 10-20-2014, 04:08 AM
  #27934  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Horizontal or inverted?
Inverted, I already have an FA-91S mounted. The FA-115 is the same footprint & only 1mm taller. I would like to be able to pull vertical from s-l-o-w flight speed just for giggles.
Old 10-20-2014, 04:31 AM
  #27935  
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I have mine mounted horizontal, which is probably why it looks out of place and would devastate the cowl. I will revisit the mounting before I go any further. Only drawback to that would be adding a remote glow to it. I hate sticking my hand under a plane when the engine is running.
Old 10-20-2014, 08:32 PM
  #27936  
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Originally Posted by acdii
I have mine mounted horizontal, which is probably why it looks out of place and would devastate the cowl. I will revisit the mounting before I go any further. Only drawback to that would be adding a remote glow to it. I hate sticking my hand under a plane when the engine is running.

CDI my friend. It's a wonderful thing. Plenty of room in a 1/5 scale Cub for a module.
Old 10-21-2014, 03:11 AM
  #27937  
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Dan, one thing that has not come up in these CDI discussions is the spark plug gap. I received a new plug with the latest C&H purchase and it appears to be set pretty wide. It sparks with a pretty sharp crack though. Thanks
Old 10-21-2014, 03:29 AM
  #27938  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Dan, one thing that has not come up in these CDI discussions is the spark plug gap. I received a new plug with the latest C&H purchase and it appears to be set pretty wide. It sparks with a pretty sharp crack though. Thanks
One of the little annoyances W/the Chinese plugs is that they sometimes aren't gapped @ the optimal .012".

I gap mine thus, but be careful as the welded electrode (the expensive "Rimfire" plugs are machined) can be prone to breakage is it is worked excessively when gapping.

If it is anywhere around .012" to .015" leave it alone.
Old 10-21-2014, 07:13 AM
  #27939  
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After looking through the manual, I see no hp figures but the 120 special numbers are shown at 10k rpm vs 9k rpm.
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Old 10-21-2014, 03:08 PM
  #27940  
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Thanks Dan, I'll check it Thursday, it appears to be about .020".

Quick, here is a link to a Clarence Lee test of the 1.20, remember the HP is a totally useless figure. Mr. Lee's numbers are useful.

http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...%20FA-120.html
Old 10-21-2014, 06:58 PM
  #27941  
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#323 checking in,
I bought a saito 65 off the bay. "good compression", the bearings were awful. Rusted up bad. Replaced the bearings, adjusted the valves and installed on my 4*40. I had another 65 on the 4*, it broke a piston pin. Mounted the new to me 65 inverted, no bench running. Fired up easy took it up once, but the idle was not reliable. Installed a new F plug and readjusted the low speed. found some gunk in the high speed and cleaned it out.
This one runs just as sweet as the other. With an APC 13x6, perfect match for the 4*40. I just started flying again after a 4 year break and moved up from my Senior.
Saito 65- good stuff!
Old 10-21-2014, 07:16 PM
  #27942  
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Originally Posted by wmb
#323 checking in,
i bought a saito 65 off the bay. "good compression", the bearings were awful. Rusted up bad. Replaced the bearings, adjusted the valves and installed on my 4*40. I had another 65 on the 4*, it broke a piston pin. Mounted the new to me 65 inverted, no bench running. Fired up easy took it up once, but the idle was not reliable. Installed a new f plug and readjusted the low speed. Found some gunk in the high speed and cleaned it out.
This one runs just as sweet as the other. With an apc 13x6, perfect match for the 4*40. I just started flying again after a 4 year break and moved up from my senior.
Saito 65- good stuff!
+1 :d
Old 10-22-2014, 05:01 AM
  #27943  
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Can't afford CDI at the moment, just trying to complete the builds with what I have on hand now. After flying the T-Clips with the FG-11, I would love to have CDi or gas on everything, but only 4 stroke. I hate the sound of the DLE. I got 10 minutes in last night before darkness and cold took its toll. The FG-11 is all cowled in now, so cant touch the needle, and did not need to. After I spun it at WOT, ignition off for about 45 seconds to get the fuel to the carb, flipped the ignition on, and hit it with the starter, and fired right up. Other than a little burble on the first transition from idle to WOT, it ran smooth as always. This combo of plane and engine have quickly become my favorite. Even with the temps being upper 40's, and the last time flown in the 60's, the temp difference had no effect on how it ran.
Old 10-22-2014, 03:35 PM
  #27944  
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I have a Saito 100 in a WM Chippie. Fuel is Wildcat 15%, prop an APC 15x6, elevation is 1200', temperature 65F. Engine has run about 3 gallons so far. I've just been out setting the idle needle (requires removing the cowling). Forgot to say it has onboard glow that comes on below say 1/3 throttle. Followed the instructions of peak the HS, set the throttle to give a low rpm (~2100) then slowly lean the LSN until it won't die when you throttle up. Repeat. What should I get for WOT? I'm at 8980 to 8990. I expected more. Idle is a bit rough. I suspect it would die if the glow were disconnected. It's a hassle but should I try the tuning without the glow driver on? How low an idle should I expect? Even at 2100, it creeps on the ground.


[No, I'm not going to install CDI!! I want to get it running like this!]
Old 10-23-2014, 07:17 AM
  #27945  
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RC_Fanatic- is the engine inverted? I'm asking because you are using onboard glow.

I like cowls and most of my models have them. As much as I like them, I always cut a small round hole for a small screwdriver to be used to adjust the low speed screw. C'mon, it's just a small hole. Depending on the cowl color, you can get paint, dope, or paint pens, or markers close enough to dab a little pigment around the round hole you cut. I use a Dremel wood sander attachment that has a pointed tip to slowly sand the hole open and smooth it out at the same time. Also, if you can find the right size, black rubber grommets make for a good look. I have a bunch of those for the holes the cowl needs to screw it on the plane. Besides looking good, the grommets seem to keep me from having cracking problems others have.
Old 10-23-2014, 07:48 AM
  #27946  
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Yes, the engine is inverted. To add to the problem, the fellow who built it installed a Pitts-type smoke muffler and there is no way to get a regular glow-plug-driver connector in the narrow gap. He had a home-brew remote connector installed but it used an audio plug which could not handle the current. I like the on-board glow and have a few in my parts boxes.

It's not a big deal to take off the cowl and it seems I don't need to adjust the LSN very often. Since there is already a hole in that side of the cowl for a fuel filler, another one just below it is not a big problem. I'll probably do that next time.
Old 10-23-2014, 12:07 PM
  #27947  
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I need help with a Saito 125. It's a new engine that I installed in a Great Planes Decathlon (Giant Scale 89" Wing Span) kit. The engine is installed inverted with a stock muffler but right angle (90 degrees) manifold. I use Powermaster 20/20 fuel and a 16x6 Zoar wood propeller. I have broken in the engine with about 1.5 gallons of fuel and it runs well with a good transition from low to high. My issue is that I can only get about 8600 RPM's at full throttle. I called Horizon and they told me that 9000 RPM's is the max I should achieve and that 8600 is the low end but not necessarily bad. I have find tuned the low end idle and that is running perfectly and I can tune the high end but only at a max of 8600 RPM's. Can anyone tell me what their experience is with these engines, especially maximum RPM's. Also, has anyone used a 17x6 propeller to improve the RPM's? thanks in advance for any assistance. Capt Lou
Old 10-23-2014, 01:14 PM
  #27948  
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Cap, before you lose heart, try a couple of other brands of 16x6.
Old 10-23-2014, 03:02 PM
  #27949  
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Rc Fanatic, try a little more oil in the fuel mix, and the guy using the Xoar prop swap over to an APC or similar, heavier plops give better fly wheel effect.
Old 10-23-2014, 04:20 PM
  #27950  
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Originally Posted by FNQFLYER
Rc Fanatic, try a little more oil in the fuel mix, and the guy using the Xoar prop swap over to an APC or similar, heavier plops give better fly wheel effect.
How is more oil going to make more power?

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