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Re the quitting on going vertical: Looking at your muffler, although it just may be the camera angle, it seems the pressure tap is angled towards the exhaust end of the muffler, This might cause a vacuum in the tank instead of the desired pressure. Maybe the muffler was tapped for smoke instead of pressure? Maybe try another muffler? Just another thought, hope your issue gets resolved, however that happens.
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It is a homemade muffler with thin walls. I cannot solder it elsewhere (I do not know how and I do not have, probably, the right equipment). The material seems to be copper! The previous guy said it had no problems. I doubt that!
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Hello all i have a Saito 72 and i have to tighten the muffler and 90 degree adapter after i put my cowl on. Does anyone know where i can buy a 14 mm super thin wrench to tighten the 90 degree adapter?
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I have lots of them. They used to be included with the engines. 14mm/17mm open end.
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If you can't find a thin wrench easily, I just thought of this... Get a Robart prop wrench http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWG35&P=7 , It has sizes to fit metric and SAE hex nuts. You could cut away part of the metal around the 14mm hex to make it look like a pseudo-open-end wrench.
You might also find some thin wrenches at McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com by doing a search for "metric open end wrench" and then using the filters on the left side of the page. No promises, but you might find something here too, but it would be twice the price of the Robart.
Just my $.02
Bob
You might also find some thin wrenches at McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com by doing a search for "metric open end wrench" and then using the filters on the left side of the page. No promises, but you might find something here too, but it would be twice the price of the Robart.
Just my $.02
Bob
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Hope you find your problem. I love my Saitos.
Last edited by JNorton; 11-29-2014 at 05:58 AM.
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Copper is the very easiest material to solder. All the tools you would need are a 100 watt soldering iron, solder and flux. You tube has videos on how to learn to solder. Just wondering how you were planning on making a custom muffler? What materials you were planning on using? Copper or brass are among the easiest to use.
Hope you find your problem. I love my Saitos.
Hope you find your problem. I love my Saitos.
Since I have access to a workshop, I will make the muffler (If I can find the dimensions) from aluminium using a lathe. It is very easy to produce.
As far as the brass is concerned, I do have a soldering iron but is is a hako clone at around 50 watts.
Do yo have similar muffler?
Since I have access to a workshop, I will make the muffler (If I can find the dimensions) from aluminium using a lathe. It is very easy to produce.
As far as the brass is concerned, I do have a soldering iron but is is a hako clone at around 50 watts.
Do yo have similar muffler?
As far as the brass is concerned, I do have a soldering iron but is is a hako clone at around 50 watts.
Do yo have similar muffler?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/engi...l#post11927063
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4, H9 100 inch (Gen 1), GB Anniv Cub
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
Kadet Brotherhood #96; Mk 1 Kadet, Kadet Junior,
Sig Kougar, Sig 1/4 Cub, Sig 1/4 Spacewalker II
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Since I have access to a workshop, I will make the muffler (If I can find the dimensions) from aluminium using a lathe. It is very easy to produce.
As far as the brass is concerned, I do have a soldering iron but is is a hako clone at around 50 watts.
Do yo have similar muffler?
As far as the brass is concerned, I do have a soldering iron but is is a hako clone at around 50 watts.
Do yo have similar muffler?
Last edited by JNorton; 11-29-2014 at 12:14 PM.
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Finally Met the Guy
I've been seeing this guy's calling cards all over my woods since late October.
I got the drop on him for about 3 seconds at around 3:30 this afternoon.
The 8X57IS did its job with Teutonic efficiancy as usual.
I got the drop on him for about 3 seconds at around 3:30 this afternoon.
The 8X57IS did its job with Teutonic efficiancy as usual.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 11-29-2014 at 07:23 PM.
Poor Poor Bambi! Rather see that bugger there than running across the road in front of me! I had hit one last year, knocked its silly arse down the road a 1/4 mile, then ran over its head. Made a satisfying popping sound. Over $4500 in damage to my car.
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It's an American Thanksgiving tradition. After you eat your turkey that you may have killed yourself, you go out and kill something else, whatever is out there. Then you gut it and hang it up to drain of blood. Then you go to the field and fly your Saito powered plane, hoping that the family of that turkey or deer don't find out where you are and come to take you out.
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For thin and other "specialist spanners" etc check out Snap On or go to your local airport spare parts / hardware store. Me I buy a check spanner of the appropriate size and introduce it to either my hacksaw or bench grinder (or both) to get the desired result. Snap pn also have 1/2 sockets that we used to changed radial engine spark plugs. They make them in all sizes. They are in the aviation mechanics section of their catalogue.
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Make it, get a wrench and angle grinder and grind it down to the thickness you want
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You can also find something similar on Ebay (ex China - but probably the same thing): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-10Pcs...item3f40468e0b
They may not be Snap On quality, but they do the job for me.
The set I got has a different ring spanner to the open-ended spanner on each piece, so you should always have a separate open and ring pair to do like-sized bots/nuts up with
BJ
Another option: Get a flair (flare) wrench used for tightening nuts on pipe flare fittings. If you need to, grind the thickness down to your needs. Appropriate since you are actually using the wrench as intended. Good luck
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4, H9 100 inch (Gen 1), GB Anniv Cub
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
Kadet Brotherhood #96; Mk 1 Kadet, Kadet Junior,
Sig Kougar, Sig 1/4 Cub, Sig 1/4 Spacewalker II
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CR
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