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Trev i've been running my saito's now for years on 15% no probs.The 270 was a good flat shooting rifle out to normal 3 4 or 500,the 7x57mm equalled it downrange where you hit stuff,7mm was a freaky caliber.
Okc i'd rather get what ole yella got than sit behind a 460 belted case friend i don't care who made the stock.The 338 was about as much as i can do for comfortable shooting in any pos.The first time i handled a 460 round i thought someone had slipped me a browning 50 cal machinegun round.Way more than you'll ever need for any animal that walked the face of this world when you were on the menu.And when it comes to shooting something that dangerous i'll take a 600 nitro express side by side with a blackpowder load instead of the usual cordite strips for a good reason.If i miss the panic period will be much shorter.
Okc i'd rather get what ole yella got than sit behind a 460 belted case friend i don't care who made the stock.The 338 was about as much as i can do for comfortable shooting in any pos.The first time i handled a 460 round i thought someone had slipped me a browning 50 cal machinegun round.Way more than you'll ever need for any animal that walked the face of this world when you were on the menu.And when it comes to shooting something that dangerous i'll take a 600 nitro express side by side with a blackpowder load instead of the usual cordite strips for a good reason.If i miss the panic period will be much shorter.

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My old hunting buddy that fired the .460 had a grandfather in Tennessee that was a retired gunsmith of a somewhat checkered reputation/past. The old man owned a 500 Nitro and kept cordite buried in the backyard of the farm to hand load the rounds. My friend was a somewhat mischievous young teen, discovered you can cut old telephone poles down with the Nitro Express. Needless he got into a bit of trouble with it. Now I wasn't there so it could be a fish story but the one I know is true is the time he left the Nitro loaded in the corner of the kitchen. His grandmother saw a deer in her garden out the kitchen window and grabbed the shotgun in the corner. She drew a bead on the dear and fired but it wasn't wasn't a shotgun after all! Grandmother had an ugly bruise on the shoulder but the deer never bothered her again. She nearly beat him half to death for that one!
CR
BTW, why'd the grandfather bury the cordite?
Last edited by Charley; 07-28-2015 at 05:17 AM.

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I have no idea unless it was considered an explosive and he didn't have a license. I always wondered myself but I can't ask. My friend died young when his Gold Wing motorcycle hit a horse coming home from a church revival one night. He never got a chance to hit the brake. Snapped his neck like a dry twig, the helmet neither helped or hindered.
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FlyerinOKC, I have found that running 15% in Saitos is ok unless you are try to screw the last amount of performance out of the engine. Then more oil is needed and it is why I suspect that your Saito distributors in the USA say you should use castor while elsewhere they don't. It is the same with my YS 53 and 63's. The castor gives you a bit better protection but now that Saito actually market / recommend a specific oil I guess that will change. I run a minimum of 20% synthetic and and have yet to have engine stress problems due to lack of lubrication in either my competition or sports engines. That a/c you have on your id page is that a Bellanca or an Airspeed? I have a long standing desire to build both.

Charley his grandpa buried the cordite for the same reason mine did when he lost an eyebrow,skimming over the damage he suffered really,when i hid some black cordite strips under the surface ash in his filthy smokers tray,he fairly lit up when he put that one out.
ps popey the best to you too mate
ps popey the best to you too mate

Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 07-29-2015 at 05:11 AM. Reason: more bs

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FlyerinOKC, I have found that running 15% in Saitos is ok unless you are try to screw the last amount of performance out of the engine. Then more oil is needed and it is why I suspect that your Saito distributors in the USA say you should use castor while elsewhere they don't. It is the same with my YS 53 and 63's. The castor gives you a bit better protection but now that Saito actually market / recommend a specific oil I guess that will change. I run a minimum of 20% synthetic and and have yet to have engine stress problems due to lack of lubrication in either my competition or sports engines. That a/c you have on your id page is that a Bellanca or an Airspeed? I have a long standing desire to build both.
Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 07-29-2015 at 06:34 AM.

I switched back to 15% Wildcat 2&4 and the Saito 100 is running so much better. It did not like that Castor/Syn mix from SIG, and I did not like the heavy gunk that coated the belly of the Cub. Cleanup was so much easier too. I was able to lean it out even more once I f=got the residue moved out from the old fuel, a full 1 1/2 turns on the HSN, and gained 1000 RPM, running at 9600 now instead of 8600. I think the stuff I got is for 2 strokes, it does not work well in the 4 strokes. Have to run too rich, and burned through it quickly. Still have a quart and a full gallon left which I will use with the OS 52 instead, seemed to work OK in that one.

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I have heard with Synthetic oil fuel that 2 cycles are best not leaned out completely to prevent overheating since you don't have the same level of protection with Castor oil.

Sounds about right, rule of thumb on how I heard is never use 4 cycle in a 2 cycle, but using 2 cycle in a 4 cycle is OK. Syn oil is lighter than castor and is great for the 4 stroke as it gets in the crank case easier than the heavier Castor and doesn't gum up as bad, but burns off fast in a 2 cycle so not as good. At least that is how I see it. Thats how the bottom of my plane saw it too! LOL I can say this, my OS is sparkling clean running Wildcat, no buildup of brown crap on the engine or muffler, while just 2 or so quarts of the 50/50 mix of castor has my Saito muffler all gunked up with brown goo. The Wildcat I use is rated for both 2 & 4 stroke motors, so it has a nice oil blend.
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On oil I actually use a high viscosity (more slippery) oil in my racing YS 63's. Specially made for heli engines by cool power (it is light pink) and I run it at 20 to 22%.. On using 2 stroke in 4 strokes, that was the way I went in Malaysia (I could not get the "fixings" to mix my own) and now I just use mixes that are (have been proven to my mind) compatible with both 2 and 4 strokes. However with the advent of gas engines and their appearance in my shed all my fuel plans have now been changed. Instead of less I have more varieties of fuel to contend with.
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The leaning out thing whether you use synthetic or castor or a mix is right. The more you lean the engine (regardless of oil) the more you stress it and you will have to accept the consequences eventually.
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Not nearly so critical when stable ignition timing is introduced.

On oil I actually use a high viscosity (more slippery) oil in my racing YS 63's. Specially made for heli engines by cool power (it is light pink) and I run it at 20 to 22%.. On using 2 stroke in 4 strokes, that was the way I went in Malaysia (I could not get the "fixings" to mix my own) and now I just use mixes that are (have been proven to my mind) compatible with both 2 and 4 strokes. However with the advent of gas engines and their appearance in my shed all my fuel plans have now been changed. Instead of less I have more varieties of fuel to contend with.

So it leans out when running so if quits when you throttle down? Maybe the seal (o-ring?) for that LSN is dried out and no longer holding it.
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I switched back to 15% Wildcat 2&4 and the Saito 100 is running so much better. It did not like that Castor/Syn mix from SIG, and I did not like the heavy gunk that coated the belly of the Cub. Cleanup was so much easier too. I was able to lean it out even more once I f=got the residue moved out from the old fuel, a full 1 1/2 turns on the HSN, and gained 1000 RPM, running at 9600 now instead of 8600. I think the stuff I got is for 2 strokes, it does not work well in the 4 strokes. Have to run too rich, and burned through it quickly. Still have a quart and a full gallon left which I will use with the OS 52 instead, seemed to work OK in that one.

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Charley his grandpa buried the cordite for the same reason mine did when he lost an eyebrow,skimming over the damage he suffered really,when i hid some black cordite strips under the surface ash in his filthy smokers tray,he fairly lit up when he put that one out.
ps popey the best to you too mate
ps popey the best to you too mate


I have a Saito .82 that I got used with a 3D Hobby Shop demo airplane - a 55". WS Edge. They ran that engine on YS 20-20 fuel. I run it on Powermaster 10% nitro 2-stroke fuel with a small % of castor. Runs like a champ. I guess the 3DHS guys broke it in for me.

CR
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Thats not common . I would pull the carb apart for a look see and fix whats buggered or a bit of plumbers tape , hi temp silicon etc. But I would fix what s broken , shouldnt be too hard to pin point . Cheers the pope

I have had it apart a few times. It also has been cleaned thoroughly. It just seems like the LSN threads are real loose inside the housing. somebody mentioned a dry seal. How many seals are in this carb. I counted three, two on each side of the intake pipe and one on the spray bar. should there be a seal around the LSN? You also mentioned hi temp silicon. I had thought of that too, maybe coat the threads but I was unsure if that would cause any complications.
Last edited by Bill Lowen; 07-30-2015 at 04:13 AM.
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stable ignition timing
At least the father in law came to get the end product for his garden


Bill, it's been a while and the carb breakdown does not show that level of detail. I would have to pull the 65 from spares and have a boo, but I think the LS needle has an O-ring. If dried up or missing the needle may move.
I would advise you to fix this before running it for any length of time. Not only the obvious risk of dead stick, there can be some damage if the needle is allowed to vibrate against the seat.

Thanks, I cannot find any good exploded parts listing either. Its has only been run on the ground. It ran really good for a few minutes than quit. I found that odd so when I started looking I noticed the LSN had rotated all the in. I brought it back out, started the engine and watched it rotate in again. When i pulled the LSN out of the housing, there is no recessed area where an o ring would sit, but something has to keep that from moving when it is subjected to vibration. I am thinking the silicone might be worth a shot. the airplane is an old Skyraider Mach 1. I am not all that concerned about the dead stick, this airplane has been wrecked and rebuilt so many times. but it is such a great flying airplane so I am not ready to scrap it I wrecked it a few weeks ago and rebuilt it. it had an OS 52 on it, but I want to use that for another project and this 65 has just been sitting around doing nothing. so really if the silicone does not work I am not out anything but my time. basically I have an airframe that I paid $30 for 10 years ago, some old futaba servos, a $29 Spektrum receiver, a $20 NIMH battery and an engine I dont even know where it came from but I am pretty sure I did not pay anything for it

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