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Old 10-29-2015, 12:48 PM
  #30301  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by acdii
Are you referring to the piece on the shaft behind the drive hub, or the hub itself? When I rebuilt my FA-100 it had aluminum drive hub with a brass compression fitting, is this what you are referring too as the collet?
Originally Posted by FormerDairyFarmer
One prop driver and one collet
As Dave so kindly clarified with his picture, the drive hub is aluminum, the collet is either brass or aluminum on small-medium block singles, steel on big blocks.

Aluminum collets work fien with GI but will not hold timing for CDI.

The steel collets are like they are almost welded on, especially if they have been in service for years. The puller I pictured does a great job of pressing the jaws into the groove of the drive hub & prevents distortion. I would not attempt to pull a big block drive hub with a 2-jaw puller. You might get lucky, but if it doesn't pop right off (they have never done so for me) get the proper tool.
Old 10-29-2015, 01:26 PM
  #30302  
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For removing hubs on small Saitos (65 and under) I use the OS made unit for stubborn ones (all sizes) and bigger engines I use an arbour press (hydraulic at a pinch) very carefully(after stripping out the rest of the engine), dual result of removing the hub plus shaft plus if you are lucky the rear bearing. On the use of heat, last resort but to be used sparingly.
Old 10-29-2015, 01:44 PM
  #30303  
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Dan, where did you get the 3 jaw puller, that would ease my mind some if I had one.
Old 10-29-2015, 02:38 PM
  #30304  
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Bearings arrived today, went in no problem, the engine is back to really smooth now. I'll reassemble the rest of the engine tomorrow as I'm waiting on the gasket set.
Old 10-29-2015, 04:08 PM
  #30305  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by FormerDairyFarmer
Dan, where did you get the 3 jaw puller, that would ease my mind some if I had one.

I bought it at Sears. It was mis-marked. I think I paid about $30 for it, the same price as a regular 3 jaw puller. It should have been about $85.

To be honest, it's almost too big. It works well for the big blocks but I have to fiddle with it to get it down small enough for my FA-91S.

THIS SIZE would be a lot handier & still have more pulling power than you would need. Puller range is 1/4" to 4 1/2" 7 the reach is 3"..

The price isn't bad either once you start checking around.

The cage makes it very handy as it allows one to lock the jaws around the part. It's like having a 3rd hand. Once you have used one you won't want to use an un-caged puller.
Old 10-29-2015, 04:20 PM
  #30306  
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Originally Posted by braddock VC
Bearings arrived today, went in no problem, the engine is back to really smooth now. I'll reassemble the rest of the engine tomorrow as I'm waiting on the gasket set.
I just fired my 10.7:1 compression FA-180 up today with new bearings. They really howl (in a good way) when you put new bearings into an engine that is already broken in.

The engine had very low hours, just test stand runs. I never pulled the piston out of the cylinder since it had good compression. It rusted the main bearing a little after sitting on the test stand in an unheated garage for a year. It wouldn't pull over 7400 RPM W/an 18 x 8 prop. When I opened the back plate the bearing felt smooth enough, but the cage wasn't following the bearing around. After new bearings, it pulled 8150 RPM on a digital tack "Y"ed into the hall sensor.

I can't wait to see what kind of power 15:1 compression will make. I'll have to wait on ca$h flow for that project.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 10-29-2015 at 04:24 PM.
Old 10-30-2015, 06:05 AM
  #30307  
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Sounds better than new Sr.!
Old 10-30-2015, 09:17 AM
  #30308  
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I've had a bearing pop out with just a little heat from a heat gun. Usually, it's easy to set them in an oven for a few minutes. I've had to go up to 325F before on some that were in there really tight. I've not heard of any that came out without any heat.

I've not used heat on drive washers but I've sure had stubborn ones that popped loud when the broke free. Now that I see how effective a little heat gun can be on aluminum engine blocks I may hit the drive washers with a heat gun the next time they start to become truly stubborn.
Old 10-30-2015, 09:52 PM
  #30309  
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Originally Posted by FormerDairyFarmer
The truth is Pete, my old 1.50 only kicked props off twice, it broke them both times, my fault though. I broke this prop because I had the timing at 40 btdc, it didn't like that. I made myself a better degree wheel. That is an early 1997ish C&H Ignition system. Dan fixed me up.
Yeh i remember you doing that i was just teasing the bejeepers out of acdc.
Old 10-30-2015, 10:08 PM
  #30310  
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Here's my 2cents worth on using heat,i don't the new bearings went in the freezer last night.Today i used that red handled thing with a 10mm socket on the end and the orange handled persuader to gently tap them out,also use the rubber hammer to tap the new front bearing in.The rear one gets slid over the crankshaft and gently dropped in with a light tap to seat it properly.That two jawed bearing puller easily pops all my prop drivers off.In one of the pix you will see my small piano wire jag,i use it to pop the main needle o ring out.If you like using heat drop the case in a pot of boiling water.
And there she is all finished
ps a pix for all the castor haters
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Old 11-01-2015, 07:50 AM
  #30311  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by blw
I've had a bearing pop out with just a little heat from a heat gun. Usually, it's easy to set them in an oven for a few minutes. I've had to go up to 325F before on some that were in there really tight. I've not heard of any that came out without any heat.

I've not used heat on drive washers but I've sure had stubborn ones that popped loud when the broke free. Now that I see how effective a little heat gun can be on aluminum engine blocks I may hit the drive washers with a heat gun the next time they start to become truly stubborn.
I bake the case in the oven @ 300 degrees F for about 1/2 hour. Then I take the case in an oven mitt & smack it squarely down on a short piece of 2 x 6.

For the reinstall, I freeze the bearings & apply the same heat treatment to the case. That helps ease the force need to seat the bearings.
Old 11-01-2015, 09:05 AM
  #30312  
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
I just fired my 10.7:1 compression FA-180 up today with new bearings. They really howl (in a good way) when you put new bearings into an engine that is already broken in.

The engine had very low hours, just test stand runs. I never pulled the piston out of the cylinder since it had good compression. It rusted the main bearing a little after sitting on the test stand in an unheated garage for a year. It wouldn't pull over 7400 RPM W/an 18 x 8 prop. When I opened the back plate the bearing felt smooth enough, but the cage wasn't following the bearing around. After new bearings, it pulled 8150 RPM on a digital tack "Y"ed into the hall sensor.

I can't wait to see what kind of power 15:1 compression will make. I'll have to wait on ca$h flow for that project.
Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Sounds better than new Sr.!
Just an example of the difference in power output that can be observed from day to day atmospheric conditions.

The other day I observed 8150 RPM with the 18 x 8 propeller. Today I went out to do a comparison between my Dynathrust 18 x 8 & a Master Airscrew "Classic" 18 x 8. I do not want to chance destroying my Dynathrust prop because I can't replace it so I will run the MAS 18 x 8 on my Rascal 110.


Anyway, this morning the FA-180/FG-57 CDI hybrid turned a solid 8250 RPM,flashing to 8300, a 100 RPM increase. The MAS 18 x 8 seemed to want to pull just a tad more flashing to 8350 RPM occasionally.

Idle was 1100 RPM.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 11-01-2015 at 09:10 AM.
Old 11-01-2015, 09:21 AM
  #30313  
vertical grimmace
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Ever try a Xoar prop?
Old 11-01-2015, 09:32 AM
  #30314  
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Originally Posted by vertical grimmace
Ever try a Xoar prop?
Yes, but I like the heavier props for the flywheel affect. I had an Xoar on the engine when it ran out of fuel @ WOT & it detonated several times loosening the prop nut & slamming the wood prop into the spinner cut away, effectively ruining the prop. I could not get the 1000-1100 dependable idle with the light weight wooden prop.
Old 11-01-2015, 09:37 AM
  #30315  
vertical grimmace
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I kind of figured a Xoar wood be heavier than a MAS prop. I have found on the larger props, the good Beech wood used in Vess and Xoar props do not flex out their pitch, essentially just performing better.
Old 11-01-2015, 11:53 AM
  #30316  
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I have several Zoar's and they are too light for four strokes unless you like a high idle.
Old 11-02-2015, 06:26 AM
  #30317  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
Here's my 2cents worth on using heat,i don't the new bearings went in the freezer last night.Today i used that red handled thing with a 10mm socket on the end and the orange handled persuader to gently tap them out,also use the rubber hammer to tap the new front bearing in.The rear one gets slid over the crankshaft and gently dropped in with a light tap to seat it properly.That two jawed bearing puller easily pops all my prop drivers off.In one of the pix you will see my small piano wire jag,i use it to pop the main needle o ring out.If you like using heat drop the case in a pot of boiling water.
And there she is all finished
ps a pix for all the castor haters
Closed bearing? I thought they would have been open to allow more lubrication into the bearing. Admittedly I haven't had to replace a Saito's bearings yet only because I don't have enough time on the engines.
Old 11-02-2015, 08:41 AM
  #30318  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
.That two jawed bearing puller easily pops all my prop drivers off.In one of the pix you will see my small piano wire .
That's not the ordinary run of the mill "2 jaw puller". It has more in common with a caged puller. It has the ability to force the jaws into the groove. Where can one find one of those & how much do they cost?
Old 11-02-2015, 11:04 AM
  #30319  
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Just joined the club with my first Saito! FG-21 running on 110 octane race gas.

Since race fuel is leaded, will that be a problem with the motor?
Old 11-02-2015, 11:14 AM
  #30320  
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Originally Posted by MFIGHT43
Just joined the club with my first Saito! FG-21 running on 110 octane race gas.

Since race fuel is leaded, will that be a problem with the motor?
Lead will eventually lead to more deposits. Are you sure it's leaded? The 110 we get in these parts isn't.

110 octane is way more than you need & will probably make less HP than something in the neighborhood of 90 octane.

Higher octane merely raises the flash point.It doers not make "more power" unle4ss the engine requires it. I tried 110 once in my 10.5:1 2006 5.7 Hemi. It killed my 60' times & cost me about 2/10 in the 1/4 mile.

Unless you are planning of cranking a lot more ignition timing into it, there just isn't any point.
Old 11-02-2015, 11:36 AM
  #30321  
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Point taken! I am merely using it to replicate the smell and feel of avgas. Power is not a concern right now as I am over powered. It does look like its leaded though. So I may have to nix that idea.
Old 11-02-2015, 12:10 PM
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Check with your supplier it may have a lead substitute I though the feds killed off the lead additive.
Old 11-02-2015, 12:15 PM
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OK I was wrong.Here is an excerpt from an FAA Factsheet on the subject dated 6/19/2013:

the FAA has established an Agency performance metric that states: “A replacement fuel for leaded aviation gasoline is available by 2018 that is usable by most general aviation aircraft.” This performance metric will guide investments and decisions taken on by FAA for the coming years.

The full Factsheet can be found here:

https://www.faa.gov/news/fact_sheets...m?newsId=14754
Old 11-02-2015, 01:22 PM
  #30324  
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Oh right, thats avgas. I am running Sunoco 110 Race gas. I checked their website, it seems all 110 octane is leaded. I don't know, I may just run it anyways. It runs really well on this stuff.
Old 11-03-2015, 06:01 AM
  #30325  
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Sr is giving good advice,i run 85 octane unleaded in mine.If you want the fuel to smell better put 2% castor in,gets your aeroplane nice and filthy too but sure smells good...how low are you flyin?

ps i reckon way back we should have lined up at tim allens auditions for tool timei always wanted that v8 lawnmower.

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