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Old 01-20-2016, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave, FormerDairyFarmer
You're correct, they only look even in Horizon's pictures.
Yes. they are so close, I wonder why they are not on the same plane and machined as such, like Dave surmised they were?
Old 01-20-2016, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by spaceworm
Yes. they are so close, I wonder why they are not on the same plane and machined as such, like Dave surmised they were?
While the cam housing gasket surface will remain constant in relation to the crank center-line on all engines that use the FA-300T cam (all big block "B" engines) The distance from that same center-line for the case deck will vary. There is a .052" difference between the FA-150 & FA-180.

FA-180 Left, FA-150 Right

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Old 01-21-2016, 02:26 AM
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I only have two of the B versions, the FA .40a and the 1.00, neither had an A version.

Maybe I should clarify that a bit, neither had an A version that looked like this
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:18 AM
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Dave it's a saito engine lying on it's side as it should be

Sr i reckon the 150 is sitting a little lower than the 180 to it's left if you look at the height of the engine mounts at the front or have you been taking photography lessons from dave?
Old 01-21-2016, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Fart

Sr i reckon the 150 is sitting a little lower than the 180 to it's left if you look at the height of the engine mounts at the front or have you been taking photography lessons from dave?
Look at the distance from the back plate bore to the case deck. That is the critical dimension that is different. Aside from clearance for the big end of the rod and the larger diameter spigot on the bottom of the FA-180 cylinder, all other dimensions are identical. In fact, the FA-150 case on the right was clearanced for the FA-180 rod & cylinder.
Old 01-21-2016, 07:05 AM
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What in the Wide Wide World of Sports is going on here? Talking about Saitos? Man this thread has gone downhill.
Old 01-21-2016, 07:36 AM
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I just now finished replacing the cam housing/cover on my 1.50. According to a lady at Horizon in 92 or 93 I got the first 1.50 sold here. Early on you could both feel and hear the cam gear when you turned the engine. Too little clearance I guess. In replacing the cam cover my valve lash, .0039 completely disappeared, there was none. My guess is that they raised the cam gear a little to rectify that.
I raised the cylinder enough to remove the pushrods and tubes, then bolted the cylinder back down. I used my Sullivan fuel bulb trick to hold the piston on TDC, I used a razor blade to hold the cam dot centered while installing the cam cover, then raised cylinder again to replace the pushrods and tubes. That's when I discovered the lash gone. It was an easy fix.
Old 01-21-2016, 07:53 AM
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Dave,
For a Saito newbie, would you give me an expanded explanation of your objective and process?

Thanks,
Jim
Old 01-21-2016, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave, FormerDairyFarmer
I just now finished replacing the cam housing/cover on my 1.50. According to a lady at Horizon in 92 or 93 I got the first 1.50 sold here. Early on you could both feel and hear the cam gear when you turned the engine. Too little clearance I guess. In replacing the cam cover my valve lash, .0039 completely disappeared, there was none. My guess is that they raised the cam gear a little to rectify that.
I raised the cylinder enough to remove the pushrods and tubes, then bolted the cylinder back down. I used my Sullivan fuel bulb trick to hold the piston on TDC, I used a razor blade to hold the cam dot centered while installing the cam cover, then raised cylinder again to replace the pushrods and tubes. That's when I discovered the lash gone. It was an easy fix.

That's odd since the FA-120-150-180 all use the same SAI12033 cam housing. My thinking is that some of the early FA-150s may have been shipped with cam housings out of spec.
Old 01-21-2016, 05:07 PM
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Dan, that could be.

Jim, I replaced the cam cover because several years ago I experimented with moving the crankcase vent from the rear to the front and had the holes in the cam housing closed with 8/32x.125" screws. They were unsightly so I got rid of them. Also, it gave me an excuse to work on an engine.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:34 PM
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Dave, I am particularly interested in your comment about using the razor blade to hold the cam dot centered.....the only time I have had to set timing on a Saito I was very careful to align the dots during assembly; you may have an easier method than I used. I would be grateful if you could explain it to me.

Thanks,
Jim
Old 01-22-2016, 04:28 AM
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Certainly, first, I'll explain how I hold the piston at TDC, I drilled a .050" hole through a glow plug post, (not easy), I then deflate a Sullivan fuel bulb, attach it to the glow plug post and release it. It pulls the piston to TDC and holds it for about 45 minutes, if you need it that long. Dan has a great method for holding the crank pin at TDC using a rubber band, Since I never completely removed the cylinder, that wouldn't work. Some guys use an Exacto knife held flat against the cam cover gasket surface to hold the cam gear with the dot pointing straight down. I just happened to have an old fashioned razor blade handy, held it flat against the gasket surface with the blade between two teeth. Then, carefully lowered the cam gear and cover onto the crankcase. I thought about cutting the heads off a couple of long M3 or 3.5M bolts to serve as guides while lowering it and still may on another engine. To check your accuracy after bolting the cam cover down and rotate the engine to TDC between the exhaust and intake stroke, if in time both valves will be open a little and will alternately open and close when you rock the crank back and forth a little. Eazy Peazy.

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Old 01-22-2016, 08:39 AM
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Thanks
Old 01-22-2016, 01:48 PM
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Do any of you have a spare one of these right angle manifolds for a Saito 100that you would like to sell me?
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:51 PM
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I am moving really close to grabbing an FG 30 gasser. MY LHS has one. Here is the wing it will be pulling around. DH 94 Moth Minor. Jerry Bates design.

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Old 01-22-2016, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave, FormerDairyFarmer
Certainly, first, I'll explain how I hold the piston at TDC, I drilled a .050" hole through a glow plug post, (not easy), I then deflate a Sullivan fuel bulb, attach it to the glow plug post and release it. It pulls the piston to TDC and holds it for about 45 minutes, if you need it that long. Dan has a great method for holding the crank pin at TDC using a rubber band, Since I never completely removed the cylinder, that wouldn't work. Some guys use an Exacto knife held flat against the cam cover gasket surface to hold the cam gear with the dot pointing straight down. I just happened to have an old fashioned razor blade handy, held it flat against the gasket surface with the blade between two teeth. Then, carefully lowered the cam gear and cover onto the crankcase. I thought about cutting the heads off a couple of long M3 or 3.5M bolts to serve as guides while lowering it and still may on another engine. To check your accuracy after bolting the cam cover down and rotate the engine to TDC between the exhaust and intake stroke, if in time both valves will be open a little and will alternately open and close when you rock the crank back and forth a little. Eazy Peazy.
I pack the cam cover with grease so that the cam does not move, works for me
Old 01-23-2016, 03:07 AM
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Vertical a beautifully shaped wing and the moth will sound good if you get the fg30.I know they cost a bit,rewarding sound tho
Old 01-23-2016, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by vertical grimmace
I am moving really close to grabbing an FG 30 gasser. MY LHS has one. Here is the wing it will be pulling around. DH 94 Moth Minor. Jerry Bates design.

Make sure it isn't one of the early FG-30s that had something other than a hall effect triggered CDI. Most of those ended up getting a complete C&H CDI conversion complete W/Walbro carburetor to run reliably.

They switched to an RCEXL type ignition & better carburetor on the later versions.
Old 01-23-2016, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by p3arljam
Do any of you have a spare one of these right angle manifolds for a Saito 100that you would like to sell me?
Check with Turboheader and Just Engines; they may have one for you. Beware the ones that crack and break, although I can't tell you which ones, except they were sold by Horizon, I think. good luick.
Old 01-23-2016, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
Make sure it isn't one of the early FG-30s that had something other than a hall effect triggered CDI. Most of those ended up getting a complete C&H CDI conversion complete W/Walbro carburetor to run reliably.

They switched to an RCEXL type ignition & better carburetor on the later versions.

I was going to get it new in box. How would I recognize if it were this old stock? There is always a possibility that it has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. So the New FG 30 has no issues?
Old 01-23-2016, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Oliver
Thanks
Jim, you will find more Saito tips and general maintenance info in the Saito Notes by Bill Robison. It is located in the main Glow Engines menu up at the top of the list.
Old 01-23-2016, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by vertical grimmace
I was going to get it new in box. How would I recognize if it were this old stock? There is always a possibility that it has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. So the New FG 30 has no issues?
If its an FG-30B its the new one with the good carb and ignition.
Old 01-23-2016, 01:22 PM
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blw,
Thanks, I have been reading, and reading and............didn't come across anything that answered my questions about the 150.

Jim
Old 01-23-2016, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Oliver
blw,
Thanks, I have been reading, and reading and............didn't come across anything that answered my questions about the 150.

Jim
Sorry, what were the questions again?
Old 01-23-2016, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
If its an FG-30B its the new one with the good carb and ignition.
Thanks. I will make sure it is the B model. I do remember problems when they first came out. Hopefully they are all solved now.

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